os 


TKe  Way  of  tKe 
Woods 

A  Manual  for  Sportsmen  in  Northeastern 
United  States  and  Canada 


By 

E,dward  BrecK 


With  8O  Illustrations 


G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons 

New  York   and    London 

Ube    Iknicfeerbocfeer    press 

1908 


COPYRIGHT,  1908 

BY 
G.  P.  PUTNAM'S  SONS 


tTbc  ftnicfcerbocfeer  Tprees,  mew  Jpor* 


A  little  time  ago,  while  rummaging  among  some  ancient  papers,  I 
chanced  upon  a  faded  little  note-book  containing  a  synopsis  of  a  pro- 
jected poetical  romance  written  in  the  scrawling  hand  of  my  early 
teens,  when  the  ecstasy  of  authorship  first  intoxicated  my  dreamy 
young  brain.  Across  the  first  page  was  inscribed  in  would-be  ornate 
letters  the  legend : 

"To  NATURE  AND  THE  GODS  I  DEDICATE  THIS  WORK!" 

And  now  in  sered  middle-age  I  smile  to  think  that  my  boyish 
paganism  has  returned  to  me,  and  that  I  might  in  all  seriousness  set 
that  flamboyant  inscription  in  this  place,  were  it  not  that,  as  long  as 
this  hand  shall  hold  a  pen,  no  task  of  mine  can  be  consecrated  to  any 
other  than  to  her  whose  long  life  has  been  an  epic  of  devotion  to  the 
one  that  has  gone  before,  and  the  one  that  is  left. 

I   DEDICATE   THIS  LITTLE   BOOK 
TO  MY   SWEET  MOTHER 


ft/1578450 

iii 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

CHAPTER  I 
PLANNING  THE  OUTING     .....  3 

CHAPTER  II 
CLOTHING        .  .  .  .  .  .  -15 

CHAPTER  III 
PERSONAL  OUTFIT   ......          28 

CHAPTER  IV 
WOMEN  IN  THE  WOODS      .  .  .  •  •          59 

CHAPTER  V 
CAMP  BAGGAGE TENTS    .....          63 

CHAPTER  VI 
CANOES  .......          87 

CHAPTER  VII 
PROVISIONS     .......        105 


vi  Contents 

PAGE 

CHAPTER  VIII 
COOKERY COOKING-KITS  .  .  .  .119 

CHAPTER   IX 
MAKING  CAMP  .  .  .  .  .  150 

CHAPTER  X 
WOODCRAFT    .......        163 

CHAPTER  XI 
NATURE  PROTECTION          .  .  .  .  .177 

CHAPTER   XII 
FISHING  .......        189 

CHAPTER  XIII 
SPORTING  FIREARMS  .....       303 

CHAPTER  XIV 
MOOSE-HUNTING       ......       321 

CHAPTER  XV 
DEER-HUNTING          ......       344 

CHAPTER  XVI 
CARIBOU-HUNTING  .....       360 

CHAPTER  XVII 

THE  GAME  OF  THE  NORTH-WEST ELK,  ANTELOPE, 

MOUNTAIN  SHEEP,    MOUNTAIN     GOAT,     GRIZZLY 
BEAR,  COUGAR      ......       363 


Contents  vii 

PAGE 

CHAPTER  XVIII 

GAME  BIRDS   .......        369 

CHAPTER  XIX 
TRAPPING         .  .  .  .  .  .  .376 

CHAPTER  XX 
PHOTOGRAPHY  ......       397 

CHAPTER  XXI 
HYGIENE,  MEDICINE,  AND  SURGERY      .  .  .       407 

CHAPTER  XXII 
ON  NATURE-BOOKS  „  425 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


FULL-PAGE 

PAGE 

CAMP  ON  THE  TOBEATic        .  Frontispiece 

KNEE  DEEP  IN  JUNE      ....  facing       4 

THE  WARDEN'S  WINTER  CRUISE             .          .     "  6 

A  MODERN  DIANA                  .          .          .          .  60 

POSTPRANDIAL  JOYS            .         .         .  64 

POLING  UP  THE  RAPIDS       .         .         .         .     "  IOO 

THE  DINING-FLY.        .         .         .         .         .  158 

THE  END  OF  THE  BATTLE     .          .          .                "  258 

IN  WINTER  DREAMT,  IN  SPRING  COME  TRUE    .      "  260 

A  NOVA  SCOTIA  TROPHY       .         .         .               "  322 

THE  MADONNA  OF  THE  MOOSE      .         .               "  324 

SALMON    POOL;    GRAND    CODROY    RIVER, 

NEWFOUNDLAND     .....  330 

CALLING  MOOSE          .         .         .         .         .  330 

A  BREAK  FOR  LIBERTY.     BULL  MOOSE  IN 

SPENCER  POND,  MAINE  (ANTLERS  IN  VELVET)   '  340 

ON  THE  TRAPPING  LINE      .          .         .         .     "  376 


x  Illustrations 

PAGE 

"YANKEE"  AND  HER  BACKWOODS  COUSIN      facing  390 

USING  THE  GRAFLEX                 ....  402 

10-POUND  LAKE-TROUT           ....  4-O2 

ILLUSTRATIONS    IN    TEXT 

FIG. 

1  MOCCASIN,  SHOEPACK,  AND  MOOSE-SHANK.  22 

2  MOCCASIN-BOOT,      HUNTING-BOOT,      AND 

DOUBLE-SOLED  LARRIGAN     ...  24 

3  HUNTING-KNIFE     .....  30 

4  RUBBER  MATCH-BOX         .              .              .              .  31 

5  WAR-BAG       .              .              .              .              .              .  48 

6  CARRY-ALL  SLEEPING-BAG          .              .              .  52 

7  COMFORT  SLEEPING-POCKET     ...  53 

8  FRAZER  CANOE-TENT        ....  67 

9  FRAME  FOR  LEAN-TO  SHELTER              .              .  72 

10  PONCHO-SHELTER                ....  73 

11  BOUGH  LEAN-TO     .....  74 

12  CANOE-SHELTER     .....  75 

13  FOLDING  BUCKET                 ....  80 

14  BARK  DRINKING-CUP         ....  82 

15  PACK-BASKET           ....  83 

1 6  PACK-HARNESS  WITH  FOOD-BAGS        .              .  84 

17  HARNESS  WITH  TUMP-LINE        ...  85 

18  NECK-YOKE  CARRIER        .              .              .  93 

19  PNEUMATIC  CANOE-YOKE            •              •              •  93 


»  Illustrations  xi 

FIG.  PAGE 

20  POSITION  OF  PADDLES  FOR  CARRYING        .  94 

21  CARRYING;  MICMAC  STYLE       ...  94 

22  POSITION  OF  HANDS  AT  END  OF  EACH  STROKE.  98 

23  FRYING-PAN  AND  DETACHABLE  HANDLE    .  121 

24  FOLDING  BAKER    .          .          .          .          .  123 

25  FIRE-HOOK  ......  124 

26  MODIFIED  NESSMUK  RANGE     .          .          .  126 

27  CANDLESTICK  OF  BARK  AND  SPLIT  STICK  .  157 

29  BRITISH  HANDLE  WITH  BUTT-BUTTON        .  198 

30  SWELLED  HANDLE               ....  199 

31  SHAPED  HANDLE    .....  199 

32  BRITISH  REEL           .....  204 

33  AMERICAN     TROUT     REEL    .WITH     PROTECTED 

HANDLE     ......  205 

34  THE  " EXPERT"  REEL     ....  206 

35  ANGLER'S  KNOT    .....  213 

36  ANOTHER  LEADER  KNOT               .              .              .  213 

37  DETAIL  OF  SINGLE  WATER-KNOT         .              .  215 

38  DOUBLE  WATER-KNOT      ....  2l6 

39  LOOP-KNOT  FOR  DROPPER-FLY               .              .  2l6 

40  WINGED  FLY  WITH  HELPER       .              .              .  222 

41  JAM-KNOT      ......  223 

42  TURLE-KNOT              .....  224 

43  EYED-FLY   BOX         .....  228 

44  BAR  AND  CLIP  FLY-BOOK             .              .              .  228 

45  HARRIMAC  NET-FRAME                   .              .              .  230 


xii  Illustrations 

FIG.  PAGE 

46  "I-D-L"  NET-FRAME         ....  231 

47  WOODEN-FRAME  NET        .  .  .  232 

48  TEMPORARY  TIP,  SINGLE  LOOP  .  .  234 

49  TEMPORARY  TIP,   DOUBLE  LOOP  .  ,  234 

50  BROKEN    PIECES    FITTED    READY    FOR    WRAP- 

PING .  .  235 

51  TEMPORARY  GUIDE  .  .  .  .  236 

52  BEGINNING  OF  WRAPPING          .  .  .  237 

53  DOUBLE  HITCH  FASTENING         .  .  .  237 

54  POSITION  AT  BEGINNING  AND  END  OF  CAST  239 

55  POSITION  AT  TOP  OF  BACK-CAST          .  .  239 

56  POSITION  IN  PLAYING  A  FISH  .  .  .  252 

57  ENGLISH  DRY-FLIES,  SEDGE  AND  GNAT         .  263 

58  BRITISH  SALMON-ROD  HANDLE  .  .  277 

59  BUTT-REST    ......  278 

60  SALMON-FLY  .  .  .  .  .  280 

61  SALMON-GAFFS         .  .  .  ,  281 

62  TOP  OF  BACK-CAST  .  .  .  283 

63  FINISH  OF  WIND-CAST      .  .  .  284 

64  TWO-PIECE  CASTING-ROD  .  .  .  296 

65  ONE-PIECE  CASTING-ROD  .  .  .  296 

66  CASTING-REEL         .....  297 
67'  CASTING-SPOON       .....  297 

68  TROLLING  TOP  FOR  STEEL  ROD  .  298 

69  BELT  WITH  CAMERA  STRAP        .  .  .  4OO 


Illustrations  xiii 

PIG.  PAGE 

70  CAMERA-CASE  ON  STRAP          .          .          .          400 

71  TOURNIQUET,  FOR  STOPPING  BLEEDING  FROM 

A  FOREARM^  ARTERY.  (FROM  "JOHNSON 
AND  JOHNSON'S  HAND-BOOK  OF  FIRST 
AID")  415 

72  SPANISH  WINDLASS,  TO  STOP  BLEEDING  FROM 

ARM  ^ARTERIES     ("HAND-BOOK     OF      FIRST 

AID")  ......      415 

73  WINDLASS,  TO  STOP  BLEEDING  FROM  A  THIGH 

ARTERY  (BLACK  LINE  SHOWS  COURSE  OF 
ARTERY).  ("HAND-BOOK  OF  FIRST  AID")  415 


INTRODUCTION 

4 'THE  people  who  always  live  in  houses,  and  sleep 
on  beds,  and  walk  on  pavements,  and  buy  their  food 
from  butchers  and  bakers  and  grocers,  are  not  the 
most  blessed  inhabitants  of  this  wide  and  various 
earth.  .  .  .  What  do  these  tame  ducks  really  know 
of  the  adventure  of  living?  If  the  weather  is  bad, 
they  are  snugly  housed.  If  it  is  cold,  there  is  a  fur- 
nace in  the  cellar.  If  they  are  hungry,  the  shops 
are  near  at  hand.  It  is  all  as  dull,  flat,  stale,  and 
unprofitable  as  adding  up  a  column  of  figures.  They 
might  as  well  be  brought  up  in  an  incubator. " 

Let  these  words  of  Dr.  van  Dyke's  take  the  place 
of  the  ecstatic  dithyrambs  which  every  nature-writer 
is  tempted  to  embody  in  an  introduction  to  a  book  of 
this  kind.  Thoreau  and  Emerson  and  Holmes  and 
Burroughs  and  Kipling  have  variously  and  beauti- 
fully given  tongue  to  the  sweet  command, 

"  Come  back  to  your  mother,  ye  children,  for  shame  !  " 

and  the  many  younger  apostles  of  the  "Nearer  to 
Nature"  faith  are  still  repeating  it  in  fairer  words 
than  I  can  command. 

No,  let  the  silver-tongued  sing;  my  call  to  pen  this 
manual  was  distinctly  a  practical  one.  I  could  not 
find  among  the  many  volumes  devoted  to  wilderness 
life  a  single  one  of  note  which  treated  of  the  allied 
subjects  with  which  the  sojourner  in  the  woods  must 


XVI 


Introduction 


perforce  have  to  do,  notably  fishing,  hunting,  photo- 
graphy, and  the  protection  of  nature.  It  has  therefore 
been  my  primary  object  to  prepare  a  book  that  shall 
contain  simple  and  elementary,  yet  thorough  and 
up-to-date,  instruction  in  all  subjects  connected  with 
wilderness  life.  This  instruction  is  supplemented  by  a 
list  of  the  most  authoritative  works  in  each  branch 
of  woodland  knowledge,  to  the  preparation  of  which 
I  have  given  much  care,  and  which  will  enable  the 
reader  to  pursue  further  any  subject  that  may  partic- 
ularly interest  him. 

I  have  striven  also  to  correct  what  always  seemed 
to  me  a  weakness  of  writers  on  these  topics,  who, 
while  telling  their  readers  what  articles  of  outfit  and 
equipment  they  should  procure,  fail  to  add  the 
radically  important  information  as  to  where  to  find 
these  articles  and  the  approximate  cost  of  them. 
While  the  logical  elaboration  of  this  (in  my  eyes) 
valuable  feature  has  inevitably  resulted  in  the  frequent 
recommendation  of  certain  business  houses,  I  wish 
to  state  that  no  single  article  has  been  favourably 
mentioned  in  the  following  pages  that  has  not  been 
thoroughly  tried  out  by  myself  in  the  woods,  or,  in  a 
few  cases,  by  expert  friends  in  whose  judgment  I 
have  entire  confidence.  It  must, ,  however,  be  un- 
derstood that,  in  the  lists  given,  no  pretence  to 
infallibility  is  made.  There  are  doubtless  many  ex- 
cellent things  to  be  had  that  I  am  not  personally  ac- 
quainted with ;  but  it  seemed  proper  to  confine  myself 
strictly  to  naming  those  articles  the  quality  of  which 
I  could  personally  vouch  for.  The  one  object  in  view 
was,  of  course,  to  put  my  readers  in  possession  of  the 
very  fullest  and  most  reliable  information. 

In   regard   to   the   prices   mentioned,    the   reader 


Introduction  xvii 

is  asked  to  regard  these  as  only  fairly  approximate, 
for  the  reason  that,  while  great  pains  have  been  taken 
to  ascertain  all  prices  actually  obtaining  at  the  time 
of  the  issue  of  this  manual,  it  must  be  remembered 
that  these  are  apt  to  fluctuate  to  a  greater  or  less 
degree. 

The  style  of  the  manual  has  been  kept  as  simple 
and  terse  as  possible,  and  the  effort  made  not  to 
confuse  the  novice  with  a  mass  of  information, 
especially  of  a  technical  nature.  There  are  often, 
for  example,  several  good  ways  of  doing  a  thing;  but 
it  would  seem  wiser  to  point  out  the  best  one,  in- 
stead of  perplexing  the  beginner's  mind  by  an  enumer- 
ation of  them  all. 

In  conclusion  I  wish  to  express  my  grateful  ac- 
knowledgments to  the  many  friends  who  have  as- 
sisted me,  by  advice  as  well  as  in  more  practical  ways, 
in  the  compilation  of  this  little  book,  and  especially 
to  Mrs.  John  Blair,  Mr.  Albert  Bigelow  Paine,  Dr. 
John  Pinckney,  Mr.  John  S.  Perry,  Mr.  Caspar 
Whitney,  and  Mr.  Perry  D.  Frazer. 

EDWARD  BRECK. 


THE  WAY  OF  THE  WOODS 
PART  I 


CHAPTER  I 

PLANNING  THE  OUTING 

THE  pursuit  of  health  and  happiness,  of  the  count- 
less delights  to  be  secured  in  no  other  way  than  by 
living  the  free  life  of  the  woods — this  is  our  object. 
It  is  to  forget  the  ticker  and  the  ledger;  to  get  out  of 
our  ears  the  jingle  of  the  telephone  and  the  clang 
of  the  electric,  the  querulous  voice  of  the  nerve- 
racked  struggle-for-lifer,  and  the  noises  of  the  filth- 
encrusted  pavement;  to  banish  from  our  eyes  the 
tense,  distracting  scenes  and  from  our  nostrils  the 
noisome  smells  of  city  life — in  a  word  to  escape  from 
soul-racking  artificiality  to  the  soothing  ministrations 
of  the  Great  Mother. 

For  the  average  man  it  is  not  good  to  be  alone  in 
the  woods.  Unless  one  is  a  hermit  by  nature  the 
pleasure  of  the  trip  will  be  greatly  en-  Compan- 
hanced  by  having  a  companion  with  whom  ions 

to  share  the  beauties,  the  successes,  and  even 
the  hardships  of  the  trail.  The  joy  of  shared 
anticipation  and  preparation  is  double,  and  also  that 
of  fighting  the  battle  over  again  after  the  return. 
The  choice  of  a  companion  is  most  important,  for  a 
mistake  cannot  commonly  be  rectified.  Next  to 
the  choosing  of  a  wife  it  is  life's  most  delicate  problem, 
for  in  no  other  situation  does  a  man  so  inevitably 

3 


4  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

show  forth  his  character,  and  especially  his  petty 
foibles,  as  when  sharing  a  tent  in  the  wilderness.  Let 
him  be  as  good  an  actor  as  he  will,  if  he  possesses  a 
trace  of  slovenliness,  of  selfishness,  of  uncontrolled 
petulance,  of  a  tendency  to  ''boss  the  gang,"  or  to 
find  fault,  or,  worst  of  all,  to  sulk,  it  will  surely 
appear.  After  a  few  disappointments  in  the  choice 
of  companions  it  is  no  wonder  that  many  lovers  of 
nature,  especially  those  whose  vacation  comes  but 
once  a  year,  prefer  to  go  it  alone.  Verily  one's 
companion  can  either  make  or  mar  the  pleasure  of 
the  outing. 

The  northern  wilderness  is  enjoyable  at  all  seasons, 
though  perhaps  least  so  from  Christmas  to  Easter, 
g  on  account  of  the  comparative  absence  of 

animal  and  bird  life  and  the  lack  of  fishing. 
Nevertheless  there  is  a  charm  in  the  silent,  frozen 
places,  where  snow-shoe  and  skate  and  toboggan  put 
blood  into  the  cheeks  and  ozone  into  the  lungs,  and 
we  "pile  the  huge  logs  higher  till  the  chimney  roars 
with  glee. "  Spring  is  the  season  for  the  fisherman, 
as  well  as  those  who  love  to  view  intimately  the 
coming  of  the  birds  and  flowers,  and  the  transcendent 
loveliness  of  that  sublime  miracle,  the  awakening  of 
Nature.  To  be  sure  the  law  of  compensation  wills 
it  that  so  much  sunshine  must  have  its  contrasting 
shadows,  one  of  which  is  represented  by  that  won- 
derful but  annoying  little  pest,  the  black-fly,  whose 
activity  causes  many  nature-lovers  to  choose  the 
late  summer  and  autumn  for  their  outing.  In  early 
summer  comes  the  mosquito,  but  it  is  negotiable, 
and  in  the  north  very  seldom  apt  to  be  of  the  poisonous 
variety.  Summer  is  the  children's  season,  and,  in 


LU 
O 


Planning  the  Outing  5 

consequence,  that  of  most  family  camping-parties. 
The  birds  and  flowers  are  at  their  best,  and  the  fishing 
is  often  good,  though  not  to  be  compared  with  that 
of  spring  or  September.  The  nights  are  cool  but  not 
cold,  and  life  in  the  open  is  least  strenuous.  Autumn 
is  undoubtedly  the  most  beautiful  season  in  the  north 
country.  The  summer's  heat  has  gone,  and  so  have 
the  flies  and  mosquitoes.  The  forest  is  robed  in 
unrivalled  splendour.  The  trout  are  again  in  the 
running  water  and  eager  for  the  fly.  The  great  game 
animals  are  no  longer  protected  by  the  pinions  of 
the  law.  The  woodcock  and  grouse  and  duck  are 
prime  for  the  sportsman  and  the  roasting-spit.  The 
frosty  nights  make  the  blood  course  with  unwonted 
vehemence,  and  give  the  camp-fire  an  increased 
fascination  and  solace.  If  you  are  a  hunter  of  course 
the  autumn  is  your  season. 

Like  the  question  of  season,  the  choice  of  district 
must  depend  somewhat  upon  the  object  of  the  outing, 
whether    primarily    canoeing;    fishing    for 
trout,  ouananiche,  or  salmon;  hunting  the 
deer,  caribou,   or  moose;  shooting  game-birds;  pho- 
tographing wild  things;   or  camping-out  for  its  own 
sake. 

Those  who  commonly  repair  to  the  wilderness  to 
spend  the  vacation  may  be  divided  into  three  classes : 
first,  the  adventurous,  who  yearn  for  the  primitive, 
the  unexplored,  the  dangerous;  secondly,  those  who, 
while  seeking  the  real  wilderness,  have  not  the  time 
for  expeditions  into  the  unknown;  and,  thirdly,  those 
who  care  less  for  the  adventurous  or  the  sporting 
aspects  of  woodland  life,  but  love  rather  to  pitch 
their  tents  in  more  accessible  places  and  spend  their 


6  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

time  in  getting  on  more  intimate  terms  with  Nature. 
Mo°t  often  this  last  class  will  contain  women  or 
children. 

As  to  the  adventurers  of  the  first  class,  it  is  hard 
to  give  them  cut  and  dried  advice.  Absolutely 
virgin  country  is  naturally  easy  enough  to  find  in 
the  far  north,  in  regions  of  which  I  shall  not  attempt 
to  speak  in  the  following  pages.  There  are  parts  of 
Quebec,  New  Brunswick,  Nova  Scotia,  and  New- 
foundland which  even  to-day  are  known  only  to  the 
trapper  and  the  "timber-cruiser, "  on  account  of  their 
inaccessibility;  which  entails  a  greater  expenditure 
of  money  and  time,  as  well  as  much  harder  work. 

The  second  of  our  three  classes  is  comprised  mostly 
of  sportsmen,  hunters,  fishermen,  canoeists,  whose 
choice  of  territory  is  wide.  (See  below  under  Cost.) 

Supposing  you  have  decided  to  spend  your 
vacation  in  the  woods  of  the  north,  but  are 
unacquainted  with  a  suitable  starting-point  or 
abiding- place.  What  is  to  be  done? 

There  are  several  sources  of  information,  among 
them  being  your  own  personal  friends,  advertise- 
ments of  hotels,  railways,  and  tourist-associations, 
private  accounts  in  sporting  books  and  periodicals, 
and,  lastly,  personal  application  to  local  fish  and 
game  commissioners,  editors  of  sporting  periodicals, 
and  authors. 

Most  tourists  will  have  instinctively  coupled  the 
sport  of  their  hearts  with  some  district  well-known  as  its 
home,  for  example  the  Rangeley  Lakes  or  the  Nepigon 
River  for  giant  trout,  the  Magdalen  Islands  for  shore 
birds,  New  Brunswick  and  Newfoundland  for  salmon, 
Maine  for  deer,  New  Brunswick,  Quebec,  Nova 
Scotia,  and  Maine  for  moose,  and  so  on.  But,  since 


Planning  the  Outing  7 

most  of  us  are  prone  to  avoid  places  where  sportsmen 
most  do  congregate,  we  seek  rather  for  less-known 
and  less-spoiled  pastures.  Obviously  the  first  step 
is  the  consultation  of  some  friend  known  to  us  as  a 
tourist  of  northern  woods  and  waters.  Failing  here 
we  turn  to  the  advertising  material  of  hotels,  rail- 
ways, and  tourist-associations,  whether  in  the  form 
of  newspaper  and  magazine  advertisements,  sports- 
man's-show  exhibits,  or  illustrated  booklets.  The 
last  are  naturally  written  from  the  most  interested 
view-point,  and  their  compilers  are  past  masters  in 
the  art  of  making  their  readers'  mouths  water;  but 
they  nevertheless  contain  a  mass  of  well-presented 
information  that  is  genuine,  and  many  of  them,  es- 
pecially those  of  the  railways,  are  excellently  got  up. 
They  may  be  had  of  the  various  companies,  the  best 
of  them  being  advertised  in  the  spring  and  summer 
magazines  and  sporting  weeklies.  Of  course  readers 
of  the  sporting  periodicals,  like  Outing,  Forest  and 
Stream,  Country  Life  in  America,  Recreation,  Field 
and  Stream,  and  Rod  and  Gun  in  Canada,  will  be 
more  likely  to  be  familiar  with  the  famous  sporting 
grounds  of  the  north,  and  some  excellent  description 
of  an  outing  will  surely  have  inspired  them  with  a 
desire  to  visit  that  particular  locality.  Our  last 
source  of  information,  personal  inquiry  of  game  com- 
missioners, editors,  and  authors,  is  likely  to  be  the 
most  reliable,  especially  the  last  two  classes, 
who  have  no  axes  to  grind.  A  letter  of  inquiry, 
as  terse  and  short  as  possible,  and  always  ac- 
companied by  a  stamped  envelope,  will,  I  venture 
to  say,  invariably  bring  an  answer  from  the  editor 
of  any  of  the  periodicals  just  mentioned.  (See 
Bibliography  in  Part  II.)  Most  authors,  too,  if 


8  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

they  receive  letters,  will  cheerfully  impart  any  in- 
formation in  their  power.  They  may  be  addressed  in 
care  of  the  publishers  of  the  books  or  articles  which 
have  prompted  the  inquiries.  The  sporting-goods 
houses  are  equally  ready  to  help  in  this  direction. 

As  a  last  resort  I  shall  myself  always  be  happy 
to  answer,  to  the  best  of  my  ability,  letters  addressed 
to  me  at  Annapolis  Royal,  Nova  Scotia,  on  any 
subject  connected  with  wilderness  life  and  sports. 

As  a  rule  it  will  be  found  that  elder  sportsmen  and 
nature  students  are  delighted  to  hold  out  an  en- 
couraging hand  to  the  apprentices  of  the  guild. 

Season,  locality,  and  duration  of  the  trip  having 
been  determined,  the  next  problem  is  that  of  the 
outfit,  to  the  proper  selection  of  which 
I  have  tried  to  make  the  chapters  of  this 
manual,  and  especially  those  of  Part  I.,  a  reliable 
guide.  But,  though  the  reader  cannot  go  far  wrong 
in  following  its  directions,  no  "book-learning"  can 
entirely  take  the  place  of  experience.  For  this 
reason  many  who  go  afield  for  the  first  time  will  limit 
their  purchases  to  personal  belongings,  and  leave 
the  matter  of  tents,  provisions,  canoes,  and  kit  to  some 
well-recommended  hotel-keeper  or  head-guide,  who 
is  accustomed  to  provide  the  camping  outfit  for  so 
much  the  day  for  each  person,  a  system  which  has 
its  advantages,  as,  though  it  is  apt  to  be  considerably 
more  expensive,  it  relieves  the  sportsman  of  the  task 
of  collecting  his  outfit  and  transporting  it  to  the 
"jumping-off  station."  A  first  outing  in  the  woods 
should  be  regarded  as  educational,  and,  since  in- 
dividual tastes  differ  widely,  it  is  better  not  to  make 
many  costly  purchases.  On  the  return  the  camper 


Planning  the  Outing  9 

will  have  accumulated  experience  and  ideas  of  his 
own,  and  will  know  better  what  he  wants.  He  will 
then  enter  into  the  joy  of  collecting  a  complete 
outfit,  one  of  the  purest  known  to  the  guild,  for 
among  true  sportsmen  anticipation  is  almost  equal 
to  realisation.  And  the  best  of  it  is,  that  the  interest 
remains  the  same,  whether  the  outfit  be  modest  or 
elaborate.  The  wealthy  may  buy  silk  tents  and 
$300  guns,  but  the  man  of  very  moderate  means  finds 
as  much  enjoyment,  nay,  more,  in  cutting  out,  piecing 
together,  and  waterproofing  his  own  tent,  and  in 
making  his  own  flies  and  leaders  of  material  bought 
for  the  purpose.  Happy  indeed  is  he  who,  in  early 
spring,  or  even  midwinter,  begins  to  take  account 
of  his  piscatorial  or  venatic  stock  while  planning 
the  coming  trip.  Guns  are  taken  down,  examined, 
and  cleaned;  rods  are  unrolled  and  momentous  ques- 
tions of  new  tops,  rewindings,  and  varnishings  de- 
cided. The  reels  too  come  in  for  a  loving  inspection, 
and  the  fly-books  are  brought  out  with  due  care  and 
solemnity,  and  their  precious  contents  spread  out 
in  all  their  perfect  or  dishevelled  beauty,  each  bearing 
its  tale  of  triumph  or  chagrin.  Scenes  of  blood- 
tingling  excitement  re-enact  themselves  at  sight  of 
these  exquisite  instruments  of  the  angler's  art, 
while  the  eye  unconsciously  seeks  the  mounted  antlers 
on  the  wall  or  the  framed  photograph  of  the  pool 
where  the  thirty-pounder  was  finally  brought  to  gaff ! 
The  majority  of  campers  confine  their  outfit  to 
clothing  and  sporting  implements,  but  the  man  who 
goes  farther  and  has  his  own  bags,  blankets,  tents, 
cooking-kit,  and  even  canoe,  possesses  far  greater 
possibilities  for  enjoyment,  if  only  in  the  keeping 
up  and  improvement  of  his  equipment. 


io  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

From  the  practical  side  the  attainment  of  a  full 
measure  of  enjoyment  and  recuperation  is  best  se- 
cured by  a  right  apportionment  of  reasonable  com- 
fort and  physical  exertion.  Many  there  are,  no 
doubt,  who  delight  to  make  trial  of  their  strength 
and  endurance,  and  boast,  like  Nessmuk,  of  taking 
ten-day  trips  through  the  unbroken  wilderness 
with  a  single  cooking  utensil,  a  ten-cent  tin,  or  of 
habitually  carrying  bigger  packs  than  those  of  the 
guides.  There  is  a  satisfaction  in  such  feats,  but 
they  belong  in  the  category  of  the  exceptional. 
Moreover  they  are  not  to  be  recommended  even  to 
the  robust.  "Your  old-timer,  white  or  red/'  rightly 
says  Coquina,  "who  takes  one  blanket,  his  rifle,  a 
bag  of  crackers,  and  a  little  salt,  goes  into  the  woods 
or  mountains  and  subsists  for  days,  weeks,  or  months 
on  Nature's  resources,  is  proverbially  a  short-lived 
man.  He  looks  and  feels  older  than  he  is."  The 
average  camper,  who  starts  on  his  woodland  journey 
with  muscles  softened  by  a  more  or  less  sedentary 
habit  of  life,  should  be  content  if  he  can  do  his  fair 
share  of  the  daily  tasks,  and  thus  find  at  night  the 
sweet  reward  of  that  delicious  weariness  which  en- 
sures a  sound,  dreamless,  and  refreshing  slumber. 
The  wise  man  hesitates  to  overtax  his  powers  at 
first,  but  essays  to  do  more  and  more  work  as  his 
muscles  harden,  when  he  may  place  his  ambitions 
as  high  as  he  likes.  To  be  "dog-tired"  at  the  close 
of  the  day's  exertions  is  not  an  unwholesome  sign, 
provided  that  one  rises  refreshed  and  full  of  enterprise 
next  morning.  There  is  a  large  class  of  tourists, 
mostly  indolent  of  spirit  or  out  of  drawing  round  their 
waistbands,  who  work  far  too  little  in  the  woods  and 
thus,  while  they  profit  by  their  outing,  miss  the  full 


Planning  the  Outing  1 1 

measure  of  its  advantages.  It  is  well  to  remember 
that  life  in  the  woods  sharpens  the  appetite,  and 
that  the  consequences  of  this  must  be  worked  off. 
At  least  one  good  sweat  every  day  is  the  secret.  If 
your  appetite  is  not  good  the  reason  is  pretty  sure  to 
be  that  you  are  not  doing  your  share  of  the  work.  It 
is  seldom  that  a  man  who  sweats  thoroughly  once  a 
day  cannot  eat  and  sleep  well. 

The  great  question,  upon  which  the  solution  of 
our  problem  primarily  depends,  is  what  to  take  with 
us,  in  order  to  strike  a  proper  balance  between  com- 
fort and  work.  Undoubtedly  one  should  not  miss 
the  opportunity  of  getting  on  with  as  few  as  possible 
of  the  myriad  complicated  luxuries  which  render 
urban  life  so  artificial,  and  which  are  in  themselves 
entirely  unnecessary.  Therefore  heed  the  good  old 
advice  to  go  light.  To  be  sure  the  art  of  going  light 
and  yet  be  comfortable  is  the  very  essence  of  wood- 
craft. As  Nessmuk  insisted,  the  problem  is  not 
to  "rough  it,"  but  to  "smooth  it."  Do  not  be 
bullied  by  that  class  of  sporting  writers  and  "tough" 
woodsmen  whose  chief  delight  is  to  deride  the  tender- 
foot, and  who  have  only  scorn  for  any  one  who  dares 
to  do  a  thing  in  any  other  way  than  just  theirs. 
A  vast  deal  of  cant  has  been  written  about  matching 
one's  strength  against  the  forces  of  Nature.  The 
true  problem  is  to  woo  Nature  to  help  us,  to  har- 
monise with  her  ways,  and  thus  to  lead  a  natural, 
comfortable,  and  wholesome  life.  Heed  not  the 
"tough"  camper  who  flings  himself  down  "any  old 
place"  and  mocks  you  on  your  bed  of  thick,  soft 
boughs  or  of  air ;  and  if  you  prefer  to  spend  a  morning 
in  loafing  about  camp  or  engaged  in  that  delightful 
pastime  called  by  Charles  Dudley  Warner  the  "art 


12  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

of  sitting  on  a  log, "  do  not  let  your  soul  be  ruffled  by 
his  derisive  guffaw. 

Therefore,  while  striving  to  go  light  and  to  become 
independent  of  really  unnecessary  appurtenances  of 
city  life,  by  no  means  neglect  comfort.  On  a  first 
or  second  trip  there  is  even  no  harm  in  taking  too 
much.  The  art  of  elimination  is  not  learned  in  a 
day,  but  comes  inevitably  with  experience.  There 
is  a  charm,  too,  in  trying  out  new  things.  It  is  a 
part  of  the  game.  Improvements  in  forest  para- 
phernalia appear  every  year,  and  to  flout  them  is 
folly.  Why  not  cleave  for  ever  to  the  muzzle-loaders, 
the  black  powder,  and  the  heavy  fishing-rods  of  our 
fathers  ? 

My  advice  is  to  send  for  the  catalogues  of  the  manu- 
facturers of  and  dealers  in  camping  and  sporting 
articles,  whose  advertisements  are  found  in  the 
sporting  periodicals,  and  to  study  them  closely. 
While,  they  contain  many  things  that  are  unnecessary 
and  sometimes  bad,  they  also  offer  the  latest  and 
best,  and  are  inspiring  as  well  as  instructive. 

The  financial  question  is,  of  course,  a  very  im- 
portant one.  The  tourist  who  has  had  no  experience 
of  camping  or  canoeing  would  be  very 
foolish  to  undertake  a  trip  of  any  length 
without  the  services  of  one  or  more  guides,  or  at 
least  the  help  of  some  experienced  friend.  Even  an 
old  camper  will  find  the  help  of  a  guide  a  great  com- 
fort, especially  if  he  intends  to  do  much  fishing  or 
shooting,  for  the  management  of  a  loaded  canoe  while 
on  the  move,  plus  the  work  necessary  to  pitch, 
maintain,  and  strike  camp,  including  the  cutting  of 
wood,  drawing  water,  and  cooking,  will,  if  he  does 


Planning  the  Outing  13 

everything  properly  and  feeds  himself  well,  prove  a 
severe  tax  upon  his  time  and  energies.  The  tendency 
under  such  circumstances  it  to  get  along  with  the 
minimum,  to  save  time  and  trouble,  a  method  which 
often  leads  to  underfeeding.  There  are  few  amateur 
woodsmen  really  competent  to  undertake  a  long 
journey  in  the  woods  without  professional  help, 
unless  two  or  more  be  banded  together,  and  for  these 
this  manual  has  not  primarily  been  compiled.  Of 
course  a  single  camping-out  season  may  serve  to 
promote  the  neophyte  from  the  tenderfoot  class, 
and  the  future  extent  of  his  undertakings  will  be 
limited  by  his  ambitions  and  his  physical  powers. 
I  do  not  mean  to  discourage  "going  it  alone"  as  soon 
as  this  can  be  done  with  profit,  but  life  in  the  woods 
is  like  most  other  arts;  it  must  be  learned,  and  pro- 
gress will  be  the  faster  for  a  course  of  instruction  under 
a  competent  master,  either  amateur  or  professional. 
There  are  many  things,  such  as  fire-making,  fly- 
casting,  paddling,  etc.,  which  can  perhaps  be  learned 
in  time  by  experience  alone,  though  by  no  means 
so  readily  or  thoroughly  as  when  taught  by  a  good 
master;  while  others,  such  as  using  the  axe,  packing 
a  horse  or  mule,  and  various  kinds  of  shooting  and 
hunting,  can  never  be  really  mastered  without  the 
aid  of  practical  lessons.  In  many  provinces,  such 
as  Maine,  New  Brunswick,  and  Nova  Scotia,  non- 
residents are  not  allowed  to  hunt  without  guides, 
nor  in  some  regions  even  to  camp. 

In  Nova  Scotia,  and  the  less  known  portions  of 
some  other  provinces,  guides  charge  $1.50  a  day  for 
fishing  trips  and  $2  for  hunting.  As  one  goes  west 
these  charges  increase.  It  follows  that  the  most 
inexpensive  expeditions  may  be  undertaken  in 


14  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Nova  Scotia,  from  $2.75  to  $3.50  per  day  and  person 
covering  all  expenses  including  a  guide  and  canoe 
for  each  member  of  the  party,  tents,  blankets,  cook- 
ing-kit, food  for  all  hands,  and  teaming  of  persons, 
canoes,  and  duffle.  The  cost  of  a  trip  to  New  Bruns- 
wick, Quebec,  or  Newfoundland  will  be  from  one 
to  three  dollars  a  day  more  than  this;  while  Maine 
prices  are  about  the  same  as  those  of  New  Brunswick. 
In  the  hunting  season  the  required  license-fees  for 
non-residents  must  be  added  to  the  expenses.  These 
are  in  New  Brunswick  and  Newfoundland,  $50;  Nova 
Scotia,  $30;  Quebec,  Ontario,  and  Michigan,  $25; 
Maine,  $15  (see  Game  Laws  in  Brief,  Forest  and 
Stream  Co.,  346  Broadway,  New  York  City,  25  cts. 
for  latest  game-laws  of  U.  S.  and  Canada). 


CHAPTER  II 

CLOTHING 

THE  most  suitable  clothing  is  that  which  is  simplest 
and  lightest,  consistent  with  durability  and  pro- 
tection against  the  elements.  A  somewhat  wide 
choice  is  offered  and  the  selection  depends  upon  the 
object  and  locality  of  the  expedition,  the  season, 
and  the  individuality  of  the  sportsman.  Under 
separate  headings,  e.  g.,  "Moose-Hunting, "  " Ang- 
ling, "  will  be  found  remarks  upon  the  clothing  best 
suited  to  the  various  branches  of  sport.  Let  us 
prepare,  in  imagination,  for  a  canoe  trip  in  spring  or 
summer,  and  note  winter  variations  as  we  proceed. 
The  reader's  attention  is  called  to  the  costumes  worn 
by  the  persons  depicted  in  our  illustrations. 

At  all  seasons  of  the  year  soft,  pure  woollen  under- 
clothing is  best  and  in  cold  weather  indispensable. 
It  is  very  porous  and  absorbent,  and  thus  Under- 
ventilates  the  skin  and  absorbs  moisture  clothing 
readily,  both  water  and  perspiration.  You  may 
wade  a  cold  stream  for  hours  and  yet  not  take 
cold,  while  every  other  cloth  gets  clammy  and 
uncomfortable.  Many  complain  that  wool  irritates 
the  skin  beyond  bearing,  but  perseverance  and  a 
little  will-power  will  overcome  that.  In  very  warm 
weather  it  is  not  necessary,  but  even  in  summer 

15 


16  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

cold  nights  and  even  days  occur  frequently  in  the 
north  woods.  I  prefer  my  underclothing  very  thin 
and  of  the  softest,  finest  variety,  like  the  Jaeger. 
In  cold  weather  I  put  on  two  suits,  or,  if  need  be  in 
winter,  even  three,  which  are  warmer  than  one  gar- 
ment of  their  combined  thickness.  Northern  morn- 
ings have  a  way  of  starting  in  cold  and  raw,  calling 
for  about  everything  that  one  can  conveniently  pull 
on;  then  one  can  "peel"  as  the  sun  sends  the  ther- 
mometer soaring. 

Wear  all  underclothing  before  taking  it  into  the 
woods,  and  have  it  washed  several  times,  to  be  sure 
of  the  fit.  Drawers  should  not  be  too  tight  round 
the  knees.  In  summer  it  is  well  to  have  one  under- 
shirt with  short  arms,  as  one  often  goes  with  rolled-up 
sleeves.  Nor  does  the  forearm  require  so  much 
protection.  In  case,  however,  you  are  wont  to 
perspire  freely,  both  undershirts  had  better  have 
long  sleeves.  No  more  than  two  need  be  taken,  as 
one  can  always  be  washed  at  .night.  For  sleeping 
an  extra  silk  or  cotton  undershirt  may  be  taken  if 
desired.  In  winter  another  woollen  undershirt  should 
be  added  for  emergencies.  One  extra  pair  of  drawers 
is  sufficient  for  all  seasons. 

Wear  nothing  but  wool.  If  the  feet  are  tender 
wear  a  pair  of  light  cashmere  socks  next  the  skin 
Socks  and  and  a  thick  pair  over  them,  or  even  two  if 
Stockings  extra  large  moccasins  are  worn.  As  socks 
take  up  very  little  room  I  take  three  thicknesses 
with  me,  and  can  thus  clothe  my  feet  to  fit  any 
shoe  and  any  temperature.  Long  stockings  are  worn 
with  knickers  of  course,  and  the  home-knit  ones  that 
can  be  best  got  in  the  country  are  better  than  the 


Clothing  1 7 

machine-made  golf-stockings.  With  these  a  pair  of 
light  socks  may  be  worn  next  the  skin.  In  winter 
very  heavy  long  stockings  are  worn  by  woodsmen, 
either  over  thick  drawers,  or  pulled  up  over  drawers 
and  trousers  both  and  tied  round  the  knee  to  keep 
out  the  snow.  This,  with  moccasins  or  larrigans,  is  a 
rig  that  cannot  be  improved  upon  for  cold  weather. 

The  shirt  should  be  of  soft  but  strong  flannel  and 
should  fit  well.  Grey  is  the  most  inconspicuous 
colour.  Blue  is  conspicuous  and  apt  to 
crock  and  get  rusty.  Have  the  wide 
collar  nearly  meet  when  turned  down;  it  will  fit 
better  so  and  will  protect  you  more  effectively  when 
turned  up.  There  is  usually  a  small  pocket  in  the 
breast  for  the  watch;  if  not  have  one  made.  A  light- 
weight shirt  is  best  in  summer;  in  winter  it  may  be 
thicker  or  even  thickest.  Unless  you  have  plenty 
of  room  take  only  one  shirt.  When  it  gets  wet  or 
you  are  drying  it  after  washing,  wear  your  sweater 
or  go  without. 

A  soft  but  strong  silk  handkerchief  is  a  good  thing 
to  wear  round  the  neck,  protecting  from  both  sun 
and  cold,  as  well  as  from  chafing.  In  case  of  accident 
it  makes  a  good  bandage  or  sling. 

These  should  possess  two  virtues:  protection  against 
wind  and  weather,  and  plenty  of  pocket-room.  For 
the  latter  reason  a  coat  is  preferable  to  a  Outer 

sweater,  especially  for  a  sportsman,  and,  Garments 
from  this  standpoint  alone,  a  khaki  or  duxbak 
shooting-coat  is  best,  being  practically  all  pocket. 
It  sheds  a  shower  but  a  hard  rain  wets  it  through, 


1 8  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

and  it  affords  little  protection  against  the  cold.  I 
like  to  wear  duxbak  trousers  in  summer,  and  have 
found  that,  though  not  impervious  to  rain,  they  dry 
off  in  a  jiffy.  For  any  kind  of  hunting,  it,  like  all 
canvas,  is  too  noisy.  On  the  whole  my  preference  is 
for  an  old  woollen  sack-coat  of  neutral  colour  and 
loose  fit,  with  reinforced  pockets.  If  the  trip  is 
entirely  overland  the  duxbak  is  perhaps  better,  and 
an  extra  sweater  (light-weight)  may  be  taken  along, 
worn  under  the  pack  on  portages.  Some  campers 
wear  sweaters  entirely,  but  they  are  inveterate  brush 
and  bur  catchers  and  soak  up  rain  quickly.  Never- 
theless a  sweater  is  a  great  comfort  and  I  never  go 
into  the  woods,  except  in  the  hottest  weather,  without 
one.  The  best  kind  is  one  that  has  a  high  collar 
which  may  either  be  turned  down  or  buttoned  up 
round  the  neck  by  means  of  a  snap-button.  Light 
reddish-brown  or  grey  are  the  best  colours,  as  they 
can  then  be  used  for  hunting  and  do  not  show  every 
bit  of  dirt. 

There  is  great  comfort  and  convenience  in  a  waist- 
coat, and  the  very  best  one  is  a  canvas  shooting- vest 
with  four  big  pockets.  Have  this  lined  with  flannel 
and  provided  with  an  interior  pocket.  It  will  then 
represent  the  ideal  of  comfort,  convenience,  and 
toughness.  For  midsummer  work  the  lining  is  not 
necessary.  Especially  when  no  coat  is  worn  such 
a  vest  is  invaluable.  The  inside  pocket  may  be 
made  of  some  waterproof  material. 

If  only  one  pair  of  trousers  is  taken  the  material 
should  be  wool  with  little  nap.  They  should  be  slit 
from  just  below  the  knee  down  and  a  wedge-shaped 
piece  cut  out  to  make  them  fit  the  lower  leg,  the  slit 
being  closed  with  four  or  five  thin  but  strong  buttons. 


Clothing  19 

In  this  shape  the  trousers  will  fit  without  inconvenient 
folds  into  high  boots,  leggings,  or  stockings.  The 
" tough"  camper  will  tell  you  they  look  dudish,  but 
don't  be  bullied  by  a  phrase.  Care  should  be  taken 
not  to  have  them  in  any  way  tight  at  the  knees.  Any 
old  pair  of  still  whole  trousers  can  be  treated  in  this 
manner  in  an  hour.  To  the  wearer  of  knickerbockers 
the  question  of  side  buttons  is  of  no  consequence. 
Knickers  with  simple  straps  are  better  than  those 
with  buttoned  cuffs.  All  trousers  should  be  pro- 
vided with  generous  back  pockets,  one  on  each  side. 
If  your  trousers  are  old  have  the  seams  of  the  pockets 
reinforced  or  the  pockets  renewed.  Trousers  should 
also  be  provided  with  loops  for  the  belt,  which  should 
be  of  stout  leather,  as  upon  it  are  slung  the  hunting- 
knife,  camp-hatchet,  revolver,  or  what-not.  The 
belt-buckle  should  not  be  of  sparkling  steel,  to 
frighten  all  the  game  in  the  woods  or  trout  in  the 
stream,  but  of  some  dull  material. 

The  question  of  suspenders  is  a  personal  one.  They 
are  necessary  when  a  belt  filled  with  heavy  car- 
tridges is  worn.  This  ought  to  be  avoided  where 
possible.  For  field  shooting  a  special  shell-vest  is 
usually  chosen,  while  for  rifle  ammunition  there  is 
on  the  market  a  short  leather  strip  provided  with 
loops  for  a  dozen  cartridges,  which  may  be  hooked 
securely  on  to  any  belt ;  and  no  man  is  entitled  to  more 
big  game  than  he  can  kill  with  such  a  supply. 

A  suit  of  oilskins  should  be  taken  on  a  canoe  trip 
of  any  length,  especially  in  spring  and  early  summer, 
my  experience  being  that  it  is  apt  to  rain  about  one 
third  of  the  time,  especially  near  the  coast.  The 
Gloucester  fishermen's  oilskins  are  stiff  at  first  but 
become  pliable  with  wear.  To  be  preferred  are  the 


20  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

garments  now  made  for  yachtsmen,  which,  though 
not  so  tough,  are  much  lighter  and  more  comfortable. 
Oilskins  are  positively  the  only  covering  that  will 
keep  you  quite  dry  in  a  severe  rain  of  any  duration, 
except  perhaps  the  rubber  fishing-shirt,  which  is  a 
bulky  and  hot  affair.  With  oilskins  the  outer  coat 
is  not  absolutely  necessary.  Mackintosh  is  not  to 
be  recommended  for  the  woods;  it  is  too  heavy  and 
not  impervious  to  a  long,  hard  rain.  A  light  rubber 
poncho  is  not  a  bad  thing,  but  for  canoeing  it  is  in- 
ferior to  the  oilskin  jacket,  as  the  arms  are  confined. 
For  land  trips  the  poncho  is  better, -as  it  may  be  either 
worn  over  the  head,  or  used  as  a  bed  or  tent  and 
in  many  other  ways.  The  lighter  the  better,  but 
lightness  is  always  gained  at  the  expense  of  strength. 
Going  without  waterproofs  will  do  for  overland  trips 
where  one  is  almost  constantly  on  the  move,  but  to 
sit  in  a  canoe  or  fish  along  a  stream  for  a  day  or  two 
completely  drenched  is  altogether  too  miserable  a 
business,  as  well  as  quite  needless. 

In  a  hard  rain  the  wristbands  of  the  oilskin  jacket 
should  be  tied  up  with  twine  or  a  couple  of  those 
convenient  stout  rubber  bands,  a  supply  of  which 
should  be  in  every  kit. 

For  winter  I  have  found  a  Carss  Mackinaw  jacket 
excellent. 

Hat  or  cap?  I  vote  for  hat,  a  medium-weight 
felt  with  a  fairly  wide  brim  stiff  enough,  when  turned 

down  in  wind  or  rain,  to  ''stay  put"  and 
Headwear 

not  flop  about.     For  this  reason  I  choose 

one  with  the  edge  of  the  brim  bound.  The  leather 
sweatband  may  be  torn  out,  as  the  felt  will  cling 
better  to  the  hair  in  a  gale,  or  one  of  flannel  may  be 


Clothing  2 1 

substituted.  I  keep  the  leather,  however,  as  I  don't 
like  the  press  of  the  rougher  material  on  my  forehead. 
Light-brown  is  the  best  colour;  grey  is  good.  Caps 
allow  the  sun  and  rain  to  strike  in  from  the  side,  a 
serious  fault  in  my  eyes.  As  a  spare  headpiece  one 
may  be  taken  along,  a  light  one.  For  camp  use  a  silk 
or  knit  wool  skull-cap  is  excellent,  the  former  for 
warm  weather,  the  latter  for  cold.  They  make  good 
nightcaps.  For  those  who  wear  glasses  the  broad, 
stiff  brim  of  the  hat  is  a  necessity.  Don't  take  sou'- 
westers,  rain-hoods,  and  that  ilk.  Your  hat  sheds 
nearly  all  the  rain.  The  coon-skin  and  other  fur 
head-coverings  are  only  for  winter  use  in  the  far  north. 

The  Amerind,  as  the  ethnologists  call  the  American 
Indian,  invented  the  moccasin,  and  the  paleface 
has  thus  far  failed  to  improve  upon  the  „ 
pattern  of  this  foot-covering  for  forest 
life.  But  the  white  man  makes  better  moccasins 
than  the  average  Amerind,  and  I  would  rather  have 
a  pair  bought  of  a  good  dealer  or  in  a  country  larrigan- 
factory  than  one  made  by  my  guide.  The  two  great 
virtues  of  the  moccasin  are  lightness  and  softness. 
When  you  get  used  to  them  they  are  like  gloves, 
and  the  foot  becomes  in  a  manner  prehensile,  gripping 
the  stones  and  sticks  like  a  hand.  Their  lightness 
makes  you  feel  skittishly  lively  after  dragging  about 
a  pair  of  heavy  hunting-boots.  At  first  they  will 
hurt  your  poor,  tender,  pampered  feet,  but  stick 
to  them;  in  a  short  time  your  feet  will  toughen. 
Wear  an  extra  pair  of  socks  with  them  or  an  insole 
of  some  material  that  will  keep  shape  after  wetting. 
You  can  cut  a  good  pair  out  of  birchbark  in  the 
woods.  These  may  protect  you  from  a  stubbed 


22  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

toe  before  you  have  acquired  the  catlike,  careful 
gait  of  the  old  trail-hitter.  The  best  insoles  are  of 
straw  or  stiff  felt.  There  are  two  varieties  of  mocca- 
sin, the  moccasin  proper  and  the  larrigan,  or  ankle- 
moccasin.  I  prefer  the  latter,  as  they  protect  the 
ankle  and  do  not  allow  the  ingress  of  sticks  and 
gravel  so  easily.  Literal  tenderfeet  may  have  a 
pair  of  double-soled  moccasins  made  to  break  in 
their  feet,  graduating  to  single  soles  later.  Double 


FIG.  i. — Moccasin,  Shoepack,  and  Moose- shank 

soles  are  good  at  any  time  in  rough  country.  The 
extra  sole  should  be  inside  and  not  show.  Buy  good 
stuff.  Take  the  moccasin  in  your  hand  and  examine 
and  feel.  Reject  all  ornamented  work.  Either 
oil-tanned  or  smoke-tanned  are  good.  On  long 
trips  take  two  pairs,  especially  in  rough  country, 
as  they  do  not  wear  well.  Tallow  them  frequently 
or  treat  them  with  some  good  boot -grease.  This 
will  keep  them  soft.  "Collan  Oil"  is  also  excellent. 
Do  not  attempt  to  dry  any  tanned  shoes  before  the 
fire;  disaster  will  follow.  Let  them  dry  naturally 
or  stay  wet,  which  they  are  really  not,  save  on  the 
outside.  Moccasins  on  fishing  trips  are  only  for 


Clothing  23 

the  camp;  for  wading  something  stouter  must  be 
worn. 

For  canoe  trips  a  pair  of  camping-shoes  with 
pliable  heelless  soles  may  be  recommended,  though 
after  all  they  are  no  improvement  upon  moccasins, 
save  in  the  protection  of  the  foot.  Any  old  but  still 
good  walking-shoe  will  do,  though  not  so  soft  or 
tough.  For  general  use  in  the  woods,  whether  canoe- 
ing or  cruising  about,  I  am  personally  very  fond  of 
the  soled  moccasin  called  in  the  Maritime  Provinces 
and  other  regions  shoepack,  made  either  low  or 
ankle  high.  It  is  made  with  a  rather  stiffish  sole, 
which  either  extends  the  whole  length  of  the  bottom 
with  an  extra  thickness  for  the  heel,  or  is  absent  under 
the  instep,  thus  lightening  the  shoe  but  affording 
less  protection  against  sharp  stones  and  sticks. 
When  sparingly  provided  with  small,  round-headed 
Hungarian  nails,  even  a  steep,  wet,  moss-covered 
rock  has  no  terrors  for  the  shoepack,  and  it  is  ex- 
cellent as  a  wader,  especially  when  worn  with  stout 
leggings.  In  the  canoe  you  must  be  a  bit  careful 
not  to  scratch  the  bottom.  The  nails  should  be  put  in 
near  the  edge.  Hobnails  are  a  delusion;  never  use 
them.  Shoepacks  are  hard  to  find  in  town,  but  can 
be  got  of  the  country  larrigan  makers. 

Moose  or  caribou  ' 'shanks,"  made  from  the  legs  of 
these  animals,  with  the  hock  for  a  heel,  are  tough  and 
comfortable,  but  so  warm,  the  hair  being  left  on,  that 
they  are  generally  worn  only  in  winter.  They  should 
be  bark-  and  not  alum-tanned.  For  still-hunting 
there  is  nothing  better. 

For  those  who  like  a  stout  sole  and  solid  ankle- 
brace,  the  hunting-boot,  seven  to  twelve  inches  high, 
is  a  satisfactory  article,  though  wofully  heavy.  It 


24  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

should  have  a  few  round-headed  nails  on  sole  and  heel, 
not  over  eighteen  altogether.  Better  than  the  boot 
is  the  high  moccasin.  I  have  a  double-soled,  ten-inch 
pair  made  by  Gokey  that  are  waterproof  and  solid  ($7). 
The  same  thing  is  made  for  prospectors  and  other 
rough-country  travellers  with  a  sole,  and  a  substitute 
for  the  rubber  boot  is  made  by  providing  these  with 
a  leather  top.  This  is  the  ideal  wader,  though 
expensive. 


FIG.  2. — Moccasin -Boot,  Hunting-Boot,  and  Double-Soled  Larrigan 

In  the  woods  no  waders  have  any  place,  because, 
though  they  are  warm,  even  when  wet  inside,  and 
protect  the  legs,  they  are  too  heavy  and  bulky.  The 
idea  that  they,  or  any  other  shoes,  keep  out  water 
is  a  delusion,  for  perspiration  and  condensation  do 
the  work,  and  all  too  often  a  slip  on  the  rocks  causes 
the  water  to  pour  in  and  one  is  "  stewed  in  one's 
own  sauce." 

Don't    be   afraid   of   wet   feet;   it   is   the    normal 


Clothing  25 

condition  of  the  woodsman  in  spring  and  summer. 
It  keeps  the  feet  soft  and,  if  woollen  stockings  are 
worn,  does  no  harm. 

Take  along  some  tallow  or  a  box  of  "Touradif 
Boot-Grease."  Before  starting  your  footwear  may 
be  thoroughly  treated  with  ''Never  Wet"  or  Collan 
Oil.  The  greasing  should  be  done  inside  as  well  as 
outside.  I  pour  Collan  or  neat's-foot  oil  into  all  my 
shoes  and  let  it  soak  into  the  seams,  warming  the 
shoes  a  little  first. 

For  camp  slippers  the  extra  pair  of  moccasins  may 
be  used.  Some  take  a  pair  of  "sneakers,"  but  they 
are  flimsy.  A  pair  of  felt  slippers  is  best  if  there  is. 
room  for  them,  but  the  moccasins  should  suffice. 

In  rough  country  leggings  are  a  great  comfort, 
especially  when  knickers  are  worn,  as  briars  and 
sharp  sticks  soon  tear  to  pieces  the  stoutest 
stockings.  In  wading  with  low  shoes 
they  protect  the  legs  and  prevent  the  trousers  from 
sagging  down  when  heavy  with  water.  For  spring 
and  summer  brown  canvas  is  a  good  material,  but 
do  not  buy  those  bound  with  cheap  leather,  which  is 
sure  to  come  off  after  an  hour's  wading.  Have  them 
stoutly  bound  with  cloth  or  canvas.  The  army 
pattern  is  about  the  best  for  this  season.  Leather 
is  well  enough  on  the  plains  but  is  too  heavy  and 
noisy  for  the  woods.  The  like  may  be  said,  so  far 
as  hunting  is  concerned,  of  canvas,  and  for  this  reason, 
and  because  the  underbrush  is  less  troublesome  than 
in  summer,  long  stockings  are  preferable.  The  ideal 
legging  I  have  not  yet  found.  It  should  be  of  some 
tough  but  smooth  woollen  cloth,  like  loden,  and 
lace  on. 


2  6  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

The  puttee  legging,  composed  of  strips  of  cloth 
wound  spirally  up  the  leg,  is  too  apt  to  be  displaced 
and  torn  in  the  north  woods. 

Before  leaving  the  subject  of  clothing  it  may  be 
well  to  suggest  that  some  ability  with  the  needle  is 
Home-  often  of  advantage  in  the  forest,  particu- 
made  larly  on  long  trips  far  from  civilisation. 

Clothing  The  ideal  woodsman  should  be  able  to 
fashion  at  least  every  piece  of  his  outer  clothing,  in- 
cluding cap  and  moccasins,  should  occasion  require  it; 
and,  at  very  least,  to  make  all  necessary  repairs  with 
thoroughness  if  not  elegance.  Woodland  shoe-mak- 
ing may  come  in  very  handy  should  the  kit  be  lost 
or  the  moccasins  wear  through.  One  must  have 
the  leather  (see  Woodcraft),  and  a  small  awl  and 
some  waxed  ends  ought  always  to  be  in  the  kit. 
(For  those  who  care  to  essay  a  pair  of  home-made 
moccasins  an  article  in  Forest  and  Stream  of  De- 
cember 15,  1906,  may  be  recommended.)  Better 
take  an  extra  pair  with  you  from  town,  as  even 
Indian  work  is  inferior. 

RECAPITULATION 
Clothing  for  Canoe  Trip  in  Warm  Weather 

Worn  on  Person:  Woollen  underclothes;  grey  flannel  shirt; 
trousers;  belt;  waistcoat;  handkerchief;  socks  or  stockings; 
moccasins  or  shoepacks;  hat. 

(Optional:  neckerchief;  coat;  sweater.) 

Take  Extra:  Coat  (if  not  worn);  sweater  (if  not  worn); 
suit  underwear  (of  different  weight);  3  or  4  pairs  socks; 
5  handkerchiefs ;  cap  or  skullcap ;  pair  trousers ;  pair  shoes 
or  extra  moccasins;  oilskins  or  poncho. 

(Optional:  camp  slippers;  dogskin  gloves- — if  not  worn.) 


Clothing  27 

For  Overland  Trip  (Carrying  Everything  on  the  Back) 

Omit  from  above:  2  pairs  socks;  coat  or  sweater;  slippers; 
extra  trousers;  cap;  oilskins. 

For  Winter  Trips;  Overland  or  not 

Add:  suit  underclothing;  extra  stockings.  (Optional: 
Mackinaw  coat  instead  of  sack-coat;  German  socks;  moose- 
shanks;  mittens  or  gloves  of  knit  wool;  oilskins.) 


CHAPTER  III 

PERSONAL  OUTFIT 

THE  personal  outfit  includes  everything  used  by 
the  individual  alone  and  not  in  common  with  all  the 
rest.  It  may  be  divided  into: 

1.  Articles  Carried  on  the  Person. 

2.  Knapsacks  and  Bags  and  their  Contents. 

3.  Sporting  Articles. 

ARTICLES  CARRIED  ON  THE  PERSON 

Spring  or  Summer  Trip 

Continual:  Watch;  compass;  jackknife;  waterproof  match- 
box; dope-can;  salt-box;  emergency  lunch;  plaster. 

Optional,  recommended:  Hunting-knife;  ammonia;  head-net; 
note-book  and  pencil;  magnif ying-glass ;  hooks  and  line. 

Occasional:  Opera-glasses;  liquor- flask;  pistol  or  revolver; 
smoked  glasses;  camera  (see  Photography);  camp-hatchet; 
money;  pipe  and  tobacco;  map. 

Although  it  is  quite  possible  to  get  on  in  the  woods 
without  a  timepiece  of  any  kind  except  old  Sol,  most 
of  us  do  not  spend  enough  time  in  the 
forest  to  escape  the  feeling  of  being  more 
or  less  lost   without   one.     Nevertheless   I   strongly 
recommend   trying   the   experiment,   if  for.  the   one 
reason  that  a  watch  represents,  perhaps  more  than 
any  other  single  article,  our  dependence  upon  arti- 
ficial helps.     Here  is  a  golden  opportunity  to  cast 
aside  what  is,  if  you  come  to  think  of  it,  a  totally 

28 


Personal  Outfit  29 

unnecessary  piece  of  baggage;  for  what  difference 
does  it  make  to  you  in  the  woods  if  you  are  a  half- 
hour  out  of  the  way  according  to  old  tyrant  Green- 
wich? You  have  no  train  to  catch.  Leave  your 
ticker  at  home  and  note  how  quickly  you  will  take 
to  scanning  the  heavens  with  a  new  interest.  Sun- 
down and  high  noon  will  acquire  a  new  significance 
and  you  are  nearer  to  nature  at  once.  -  Before  you 
start  out  make  a  note  in  your  diary  of  the  hours  of 
sunset  and  sunrise  in  your  section  at  that  time  of 
the  year,  and  that  will  suffice. 

If  you  do  take  a  watch  let  it  be  a  cheap  but  reliable 
one,  and  let  the  "  chain  "  be  of  leather  and  so  attached 
to  watch  and  pocket  that  it  will  not  catch  on  brush 
or  tackle.  The  dollar  watches  are  too  flimsy  for  the 
woods.  It  is  a  good  idea  to  carry  the  watch  in  the 
breast-pocket  of  the  shirt,  where  it  will  not  get 
wet  if  you  slump  into  the  water  up  to  your 
waist. 

The  Watch  as  a  Compass:  Point  the  hour-hand  to 
the  sun  and  south  will  be  half-way  between  the  hour- 
hand  and  the  figure  XII. 

A  5o-cent  compass,  cased  in  brass  with  slip  cover, 
is  good  enough  for  ordinary  trips,  but  for  a  long  tour 
into  unexplored  country  a  somewhat 
better  quality  is .  recommended.  A  large 
size  is  not  necessary.  Dealers  keep  a  good  and 
varied  line  of  compasses.  The  compass  should  be 
attached  in  some  way  to  the  pocket,  or  at  least  should 
have  a  rubber  band  wound  round  the  handle,  so 
that  it  will  not  fall  out  when  you  stoop  or  fall.  One 
without  a  cover,  though  easier  to  consult,  is  too  apt 
to  be  broken.  Choose  an  arrow-shaped  needle;  one 


30  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

with  like  ends,  one  being  blued,  is  harder  to  read  in 
bad  light. 

This  should  be  of  medium  size  and  good  steel. 
One  with  two  blades  and  a  file  is  my  favourite,  though 
Tackknife  ^e  ^e  is  n°t  strictly  necessary,  since  you 
have  one  in  your  tackle  repair-kit  (see 
below).  The  handle  should  fit  the  hand  perfectly, 
an  important  point.  Carry  it  where  it  will  not  easily 
fall  out  of  its  receptacle.  If  a  hunting-knife  is 
carried,  the  jackknife  need  not  be  so  large.  It 
should  open  easily,  even  when  the  fingers  are  numbed 
with  cold.  Avoid  kit-knives,  at  all  events  as  pocket- 
knives. 

This  is  carried  in  a  sheath,  into  which  it  sinks  at 
least  half-way  up  the  handle,  fitting  snugly,  the 
Hunting-  sheath  hanging  from  the  belt.  The  woods- 
knife  man  carries  it  directly  behind.  A  good 
sheath-knife  is  a  joy.  It  is  not  so  easy  to 
find,  for  most  of  those  offered  are  too  hard  or  too 
pointed  or  too  something  else.  The  blade  should 


FIG.  3. — Hunting-knife 

be  not  over  4^  inches  long  and  rather  thin  than 
thick,  with  a  handle  that  fits  the  hand.  The  knife 
here  illustrated  I  have  used  for  years  and  found  it 
excellent  for  general  use  about  camp,  as  well  as  for 
skinning  and  cutting  up  game.  Its  handle  is  ebony 
and  it  costs  $2.  It  may  be  found  in  the  sporting 
goods  catalogues.  Other  good  knives  are  made  by 


Personal  Outfit 


the  Marble  Safety  Axe  Company.  Look  out  that 
you  get  a  sufficiently  long  handle  but  one  not 
heavy  enough  to  drop  from  its  sheath  when  you 
stoop  over.  The  remedy  for  this  is  a  close-fitting 
sheath.  (For  camp-hatchet  see  Camp  Furni- 
ture.) 

You  will  carry  a  few  loose  matches  in  your  vest- 
pocket,    but    should    never    leave    camp    without    a 

waterproof    match-box    on    your    person. 

^r  j   -j.  j  j      i/  Match -box 

You  may  need  it  any  day,  and  when  you 

do  you  will  need  it  badly.  It  is  worth  while  carrying 
one  even  to  build  a  fire  and  thaw  out  after  a  spill 
in  the  river. 

If  the  safety  match-box  made  by  the  Marble 
people  were  not  of  metal,  and  hence  apt  to  be  dented 
and  therefore  to  jam,  it  would  be  ideal. 
If  used  it  should  be  kept  where  a  fall  is 
not  likely  to  injure  it.  A  better  one, 
for  the  reason  that  it  is  practically  inde- 
structible and  still  quite  water-tight,  is 
the  hard-rubber  box  sold  by  several  deal- 
ers, which  has  a  simple  screw-top  ($  .50). 
It  has  also  the  great  virtue  of  floating, 
while  a  metal  box  is  lost  if  dropped  into 
lake  or  stream. 

If  you  are  off  on  a  side  trip  from  camp 
carry  the  stub  of  a  candle;  it  will  make 
fire-making  in  the  rain  easier. 

A  few  boxes  of  wind-fusees  should  be  taken,  espe- 
cially on  canoe  trips.     (See  Provisions.) 


FIG.  4.— 

Rubber 

Match-box 


A  small  box  (wood  is  best)  filled  with  salt  should 
be  hidden  away  somewhere  on  the  person  whenever 


32  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

you  leave  camp  on  the  chance  of  not  returning  in 
time  for  the  next  meal.  It  is  a  good  idea  to  have 

it  always  along,   for   you  might  get  lost. 

It  takes  up  next  to  no  room  and  trout  with 
salt  are  far  better  than  without. 

When  you  have  been  lost  or  strayed  from  camp 
for  a  day  or  two  you  will  appreciate  the  necessity 
Emergency  of  this.  It  should  be  in  your  pocket 
Lunch  whenever  you  are  not  cock-sure  of  re- 
maining within  hailing  distance  of  the  commissary 
department, -and  who  can  always  be  sure  of  that? 

The  emergency  lunch  may  be  made  up  of  almost 
anything  the  cook  can  spare,  when  it  is  meant  to  be 
eaten  at  a  certain  time.  What  I  mean,  however^ 
is  a  small  amount  of  nutritious  food  always  carried 
on  the  person  in  case  of  getting  lost  or  straying 
farther  from  camp  than  was  intended.  The  one  I 
generally  carry  consists  of  a  piece  of  Baker's  "Dot" 
chocolate  about  three  cubic  inches  in  bulk,  two 
or  three  inches  of  German  sausage,  and  a  couple  of 
bouillon  capsules,  all  wrapped  in  a  piece  of  surgeon's 
oiled  silk  or  wax-paper  inside  a  small  tin  box.  Of 
course  whenever  the  danger  of  straying  seems  greater 
an  addition  to  this  should  be  made.  For  ordinary 
trips  it  is  enough  to  have  a  snack  on  the  person  that 
shall  help  out  the  fish  or  game  in  case  of  having  to 
make  a  night  of  it  away  from  camp,  or  even  keep 
up  the  strength  if  without  tackle  or  firearms.  Tea 
may  be  taken  in  place  of  the  bouillon  capsules.  In 
case  of  a  possible  deviation  from  camp  a  tin  cup 
should  be  taken,  strung  at  the  back  of  the  belt  out 
of  the  way  but  very  much  in  place  in  case  of  an 
enforced  camping. 


Personal  Outfit  33 

A  small  roll  (perhaps  a  foot)  of  surgeon's  adhesive 
plaster  should  always  be  carried  on  the  person.     It 
may  be  wrapped  in  wax-paper  or  tin-foil. 
Some    dealers    put    up    a    small    quantity 
in  a  tiny  flat  aluminum  box,  which  rests  in  the  pocket 
unnoticed  until  needed.     It  is  for  cuts  and  bruises. 
(See  Medicine  and  Surgery.) 

I  use  the  word  "  can  "  advisedly,  as  I  have  found  that 
the  most  convenient  method  of  carrying  a  small  quan- 
tity of  "  fly-dope, "  sufficient  for  the  day's 
anointing,  is  in  one  of  the  little  flat 
ten-cent  oil-cans  with  screw-tops,  that  exude  the 
liquid  when  pressed.  They  fit  well  into  the  pocket, 
cannot  be  broken,  and  the  contents  do  not  run  out. 
The  little  cap  which  covers  the  "business  end"  is 
generally  provided  with  a  needle,  which  is  not  neces- 
sary for  our  purpose  and  which  may  be  plucked  out 
with  tweezers.  A  small  flat  bottle  may  also  be  used 
to  contain  dope,  but  glass  is  always  inferior  to  tin 
in  the  forest. 

The  discussion  of  dope-cans  brings  us  to  the  im- 
portant subject  of  the  dope  itself,  and  the  great 
problem  of  fighting  off  the  winged  pests,  which,  un- 
like the  furtive  folk  of  the  forest,  welcome  your 
coming  in  spring  and  summer  with  enthusiasm,  and 
flock  to  meet  you  with  a  cordiality  that  threatens 
to  drive  you  back  to  civilisation.  These  dratted 
little  persecutors  are  of  many  kinds,  but  the  three 
most  virulent  in  the  north  woods  are  the  black  fly 
(similium  molestum),  our  old  friend  the  mosquito, 
and  the  midge,  or  no-see-um,  often  yclept  the  punky. 
Some  happy  people  there  are  who,  though  annoyed, 
are  not  poisoned  by  their  bites,  but  the  majority 


34  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

of  us  may  as  well  hit  the  back  trail  unless  we  can 
find  protection  from  their  persecutions. 

The  black  fly  is  a  fiend  incarnate  though  a  very 
pigmy  in  size,  being  only  about  J  of  an  inch  long  and 
often  shorter. 

Should  an  unprepared  unfortunate  [says  Mr.  Wells  in  his 
American  Salmon  Fisherman]  chance  upon  them  when 
in  force,  though  he  have  the  hide  of  a  rhinoceros,  and  the 
enthusiasm  of  Father  Walton  himself  raised  to  the  twenty- 
fourth  power,  neither  will  avail  him  anything.  .  .  .  Let  no 
man  in  the  vicious  pride  of  his  youth  and  strength  fancy  that 
he  can  defy  their  attack,  for  they  will  rout  him  at  last,  horse, 
foot,  and  artillery,  just  as  surely  as  they  meet  him.  A  thin 
skirmish-line  he  may  be  able  to  encounter,  though  with 
discomfort,  but  a  serious  attack  in  force  is  beyond  human 
endurance. 

The  no-see-um,  whose  diminutive  size  is  denoted 
by  his  nickname,  conferred  upon  him  by  the  Indians, 
is  less  formidable  than  his  cousin  but  considerably 
more  shifty  and  pertinacious.  The  black  fly  possesses 
one  great  virtue — he  knows  enough  to  quit  and  go 
to  bed  the  moment  the  sun  goes  down,  while  the 
midge  sticks  to  his  nefarious  business  well  into  the 
shades  of  eventide;  and  this  depravity  he  shares 
with  our  old  enemy  the  mosquito,  who  knoweth 
no  night  and  no  day,  and  whose  operations  are,  in- 
deed, the  original  "continuous  performance.  "  Taken 
all  in  all  the  whole  "kit  and  boodle"  of  them  are  a 
most  unmitigated  nuisance,  and  the  only  thing  we  can 
say  in  consolation  is  best  expressed  by  paraphrasing 
Mr.  Wells,  to  the  effect  that,  were  it  not  for  these 
drawbacks,  life  in  the  woods  would  be  altogether  too 
good  fun  for  mere  mortals. 

And  now  for  the  remedy.  There  are  two  ways 
of  keeping  the  poisonous  probosces  of  these  insects 


Personal  Outfit  35 

out  of  one's  skin;  first,  the  anointing  of  it  with  one 
of  the  many  preparations  variously  called  fly-dope 
or  bug-juice,  and,  secondly,  the  wearing  of  head-nets. 
Every  dealer  in  camping  and  fishing  paraphernalia, 
as  well  as  nearly  every  individual  fisherman,  has 
produced  one  or  more  kinds  of  dope,  all  warranted 
to  keep  winged  pests  at  bay.  Believe  them  not,  or 
at  least  believe  them  only  in  part,  for  there  are  times, 
and  I  have  experienced  them  often,  when,  far  from 
fleeing  the  most  malignant  juice,  the  furious  hordes 
will  rush  in  and  seem  fairly  to  revel  in  it,  be  it  brewed 
from  Nessmuk's  or  any  other  man's  receipt.  I  have 
picked  them  off  my  face  by  the  score,  actually 
drowned  in  the  oily  mixture;  for  there  is  one  curious 
thing  about  the  black  fly :  once  alighted  he  will  not 
budge  and  you  may  take  your  time  in  removing  him 
— if  you  care  to  be  deliberate.  He  will  not  dodge 
like  the  mosquito,  but  immolates  himself  like  a 
Japanese  soldier  at  Port  Arthur.  Nevertheless  dope 
is  a  blessing,  for,  though  it  is  not  often  a  complete 
preventive,  still  sometimes  it  is  and  at  all  times 
at  least  a  deterrent.  I  add  Nessmuk's  and  Wells's 

dopes  and  my  own. 

* 

Nessmuk's  Dope,  from  Woodcrafts 
Pine  tar,  3  oz. 
Castor-oil,  2  oz. 
Oil  of  pennyroyal,   i  oz. 

Simmer  all  together   over  a  slow  fire  and  bottle.     Enough 
for  four  persons  for  a  fortnight. 

H.  P.  Wells's  Bug- Juice,  from  American  Salmon  Fisherman: 

Olive-oil,  £  pint. 

Creosote,  i  oz. 

Pennyroyal,  i  oz. 

Camphor,  i  oz. 
Dissolve  camphor  in  alcohol  and  mix.     For  four  persons. 


36  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Breck's  Dope: 

Pine  tar,  3  oz. 

Olive  (or  castor)  oil,  2  oz. 

Oil  pennyroyal,  i  oz. 

Citronella,  i  oz. 

Creosote,  i  oz. 

Camphor  (pulverised),  i  oz. 

Large  tube  carbolated  vaseline. 

Heat  the  tar  and  oil  and  add  the  other  ingredients;  simmer 
over  slow  fire  until  well  mixed.  The  tar  may  be  omitted  if 
disliked,  or  for  ladies'  use. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  Breck  dope  is  more  or  less 
a  combination  of  the  other  two,  though  this  came 
about  through  no  intention  of  mine.  I  planned  to 
brew  a  concoction  that  should  be  a  healing  counter- 
irritant  after  being  bitten,  as  well  as  an  insect-dis- 
courager. The  camphor  and  citronella  are  anathema 
to  mosquitoes;  the  carbolated  vaseline  is  healing 
and  antiseptic,  and  gives  body  to  the  dope.  The 
mixture,  as  above  given,  will  rather  more  than  fill 
a  pint  flask,  which  is  best  made  of  tin  with  a  screw- 
on  top,  such  as  is  used  for  oil.  A  sediment  collects 
at  the  bottom,  for  which  reason  the  flask  should  be 
well  shaken  before  being  tapped  to  fill  the  small 
dope-cans.  It  is  well  to  collect  the  ingredients  for 
your  dope  before  leaving  civilisation,  as  some  of 
them,  notably  pure  tar,  cannot  be  found  in  many 
country  apothecary  shops.  Do  not  get  dope  in  the 
eyes.  A  good  dope  in  the  convenient  paste  form  is 
Jenner's  "Fly-Pizen. " 

When  the  enemy's  attack  develops  in  force  open 
up  the  ammunition-can  and  rub  in  well — neck,  ears 
and  behind  them,  forehead  (look  out  for  the  eyes), 
nose,  cheeks,  wrists,  backs  of  the  hands,  and  up  the 
arms.  Renew  the  application  whenever  necessary 


Personal  Outfit  37 

and  don't  wash  off  until  dark;  in  fact  old  Nessmuk 
and  many  otherwise  cleanly  woodsmen  counsel  a 
certain  reticence  in  the  use  of  soap  and  water  while 
in  the  pest  regions,  being  loth  to  lose  the  glaze  formed 
by  many  coats  of  dope!  There  is  no  rule  but  ex- 
perience and  necessity.  Not  a  bad  idea  is  to  have 
with  .one  a  second  small  flask  filled  with  a  mixture 
of  eitronella,  camphor,  and  pennyroyal,  for  keeping 
off  mosquitoes  at  night.  I  always  take  along  a  small 
cake  of  camphor  and  crumble  it  over  everything  in 
knapsack  and  war-bag.  It  is  cleanly  and  keeps  off 
crawling  as  well  as  flying  pests. 

The  second  main  defence  against  flies  is  the  head- 
net,  which  is  used  again  and  again  in  sheer  despera- 
tion by  campers  and  fishermen  who  have  „ 

Head-net 

repeatedly  cast  it  aside  in  disgust  at  its 
stuffiness  and  opaqueness.  Most  anglers  would 
rather  be  bitten  than  wear  one,  preferring  to  retire 
to  the  camp-fire  smudge  for  the  rest  of  the  day.  One 
reason  for  this  is,  that  there  is  not  a  head-net  sold 
by  the  dealers  through  which  the  world  does  not 
appear  as  a  very  hazy  dream.  Added  to  this  is  the 
disadvantage  of  not  being  able  to  communicate 
freely  with  the  mouth.  Nevertheless  there  are 
moments  in  the  fishing  season  when  it  is  net  or 
nothing,  and  I  therefore  give  here  the  recipe  for  the 
only  good  head-net  I  have  ever  seen,  in  the  hope  that 
it  will  prove  as  great  a  comfort  to  my  readers  as  it 
has  to  many  of  my  friends  and  myself. 

Buy  sufficient  fine  black  silk  Brussels  net  (rather 
expensive  stuff)  to  make,  either  out  of  two  or 
three  pieces,  a  bag  rounded  slightly  at  the  closed 
end,  from  16  to  20  inches  long  and  wide  enough  to 


38  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

go  over  the  turned-down  rim  of  your  hat.  Either 
select  the  hat  first  or  make  the  net  large  enough  for 
any,  but  the  better  the  fit  the  more  satisfactory  will 
be  the  net.  If  it  is  drawn  down  from  the  brim  fairly 
taut  across  the  face  it  obscures  the  vision  to  such  a 
small  degree  that  one  may  easily  forget  its  existence, 
a  thing  that  has  happened  to  me  repeatedly.  The 
open  end  has  a  running  black  braid  which  is  drawn 
tight  under  the  upturned  shirt-collar.  A  flap  falling 
from  the  tape  down  to  the  shoulders  may  be  added, 
but  I  have  never  found  this  necessary.  The  net 
should  fit  so  that  it  does  not  touch  the  face  at  any 
point.  Many  complain  that  smoking  is  impossible 
with  a  head-net  but  I  smoke  my  pipe  merrily  enough 
under  mine.  Expectoration  is  of  course  impractic- 
able without  loosening  the  tape,  but  personally  I 
am  not  interested  in  expectorators. 

After  all  is  said  and  done  we  all  prefer  infinitely 
to  do  without  head-nets,  but,  since  there  are  oc- 
casions when  they  alone  are  -able  to  supply  a  con- 
siderable degree  of  comfort,  I  recommend  this  one 
as  the  only  contrivance  of  the  kind  which  is  certainly 
not  stuffy  and  which  can  be  easily  seen  through.  In 
spite  of  its  extreme  lightness  it  is  astonishingly 
tough,  being  of  silk.  I  always  take  several  with  me 
into  the  woods  on  fishing  expeditions,  as  they  fold 
together  into  less  space  than  a  single  handkerchief, 
and  have  often  been  amused  to  have  a  hardened  old 
guide  hint  at  the  loan  of  one  and  wear  it  with  evident 
relief. 

Since  silk  veiling  is  expensive  the  net,  with  the 
exception  of  the  side  opposite  the  face,  may  be  made 
of  cotton  veiling,  or  of  green  or  brown  chiffon.  Black 
is  the  only  colour  that  does  not  obscure  the  vision, 


Personal  Outfit  39 

while    it    protects    the    eyes,    like    smoked    glasses. 
The  top  may  be  strengthened  by  a  disk  of  linen. 

Buckskin  gloves  are  often  recommended  for  those 
who  come  into  the  woods  fresh  from  the  counting- 
house,  but  it  is  better  to  take  the  blisters 
and  the  freckles  as  they  come  and  harden 
up  as  soon  as  possible.  Nevertheless  a  pair  of 
buckskins,  or,  better,  thick  dogskins,  often  come  in 
handy,  both  for  cold  and  flies.  In  cold  weather 
woollen  mittens  are  best,  and,  for  the  far  north, 
woollen  gloves  worn  under  fur  mittens  which  are 
suspended  by  a  cord  round  the  neck,  so  that,  when 
slipped  off,  they  will  not  be  lost.  For  fishing  a  pair  of 
short-fingered  dogskin  gloves,  treated  with  oil,  are  good 
to  keep  the  flies  away  from  the  unprotected  hands. 
Linen  gauntlets  with  elastics  at  the  top  are  efficacious. 

A  tiny  vial  of  strong  ammonia  is  a  good  thing,  as 
a   drop   on   a   fresh   bite   frequently   counteracts  its 
virulence  and  destroys  the  consequences. 
The  chemists  sell  a  small  hard-rubber  vial 
with  screw-off  top  and  application  sponge,  which  is 
very  practical  for  the  purpose. 

A  pair  of  these  may  be  recommended  for  use  in 
winter,  especially  for  those  having  weak  eyes;  in 
warm  weather  there  is  less  use  for  them,  Smoked 
but  the  glint  of  the  sun  on  the  water  is  Glasses 
often  very  trying.  It  is  a  personal  matter. 

These  are  emergency  tools  and  should  be  stowed 
away  in  a  back  pocket  whenever  starting  Hooks  and 
on  a  side  trip  from  the  main  camp,  unless  Line 

the  object  be   fishing,  in  which  case   you  will   have 


40  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

your  tackle  with  you.  Many  a  man  has  been  ccm- 
forted,  yes,  saved  by  fish  caught  with  this  spare  line 
and  three  or  four  hooks. 

If  you  plan  to  return  to  your  starting  point  and  to 
traverse  only  the  wilderness,  or  merely  touch  a 
M  frontier  settlement  or  two,  take  a  small 

sum  in  bills  wrapped  in  surgeon's  oiled 
silk  or  thin  rubber  and  tucked  away  in  the  inside 
pocket  of  your  vest.  This  will  be  sufficient  to  make  any 
chance  purchases  or  for  the  hire  of  a  man  occasion- 
ally. If  you  are  on  a  long  trip  with  the  likelihood 
of  coming  out  at  a  different  point  far  distant  from 
your  jumping-off  place,  your  money  may  be  carried 
in  a  chamois-skin  money-belt,  but  it  should  be  well 
wrapped  up  in  thin  rubber,  so  that,  in  case  of  immer- 
sion, it  will  remain  dry.  The  inmost  vest-pocket  is  a 
better  place  unless  the  wad  is  too  bulky. 

Opera-glasses  are  generally  used  only  in  mountain- 
ous country;  I  have  never  found  their  need  in  the 
north  woods.  Pipes  and  tobacco,  note-book  and  pencil, 
liquor-flasks  and  magnifying- glasses  are  all  more  or  less 
personal  matters.  The  last  are  for  those  interested  in 
botany,  mineralogy,  and  natural  history.  For  maps 
consult  The  Knapsack,  etc. 

For  a  discussion  of  guns  and  rifles  used  in  hunting, 
the  separate  headings  may  be  consulted.    The  ordin- 
ary camper  will  derive  much  amusement 
from   some   firearm   of   no   larger   calibre 
than    .22.      Revolvers   may   be   dismissed   at    once 
The   choice   lies   between  a  rifle,  a  pocket-rifle   and 
a  pistol,   and  the  selection   may  depend   upon    the 
character   of   the    trip.       For   a    canoe   expedition, 


Personal  Outfit  41 

I  recommend  the  Stevens  or  the  Winchester  .22 
repeater,  chambered  either  for  the  long,  the  long-rifle, 
or  the  Winchester  cartridge.  The  Stevens  single-shot 
.22-calibre  rifles  are  splendid  little  guns  and  take  the 
best  cartridge  of  that  calibre,  the  .22-long-rifle.  The 
Winchester  rifles  do  not  take  this  cartridge.  The  Win- 
chester automatic  .22-calibre  rifle,  using  a  cartridge  of 
its  own,  is  a  very  fine  firearm,  though  expensive 
($16.00).  If  a  single-shooter  is  chosen  do  not  get  a 
target  rifle,  as  they  are  too  heavy.  The  Stevens 
"Favourite  No.  19,"  using  the  .22-long-rifle  smokeless 
cartridge,  would  be  my  choice  after  a  repeater. 

If  the  tourist  does  not  wish  to  be  burdened  with  a 
rifle  he  may  choose  a  pocket-rifle  or  a  pistol,  both 
being  single-shooters.  They  are,  of  course,  much 
harder  to  use  accurately  than  rifles,  but  with  practice 
can  be  made  to  do  very  wonderful  shooting.  The 
pocket-rifle  is  merely  a  long-barrelled  pistol  with  an 
adjustable  skeleton  stock.  The  Stevens  pocket- 
rifles  (Nos.  40  and  40^)  with  1 2-inch  or  1 5-inch 
barrel  and  chambered  for  the  .22-long-rifle  car- 
tridges are  very  fine  little  weapons;  they  cost 
about  $12. 

On  walking  tours  the  stock  is  in  the  way  and  a 
simple  pistol  should  be  taken,  such  as  the  Stevens 
"Lord"  model  or  the  Smith  &  Wesson  6-  or  8-inch 
pistols.  Single-shot  arms  always  tend  to  better 
shooting,  but  a  repeater  is  a  great  convenience.  A 
small  can  of  some  good  oil,  such  as  "3  in  One, " 
a  soft  rag  or  two,  a  piece  of  wash-leather,  and 
a  cleaning-rod  should  be  taken,  and  the  arm  kept 
scrupulously  clean.  Never  leave  it  dirty  over  night. 
Always  use  smokeless  ammunition  and  buy  it  in  the 
United  States,  for  Canadian  ammunition  is  inferior. 


42  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Open  sights  are  best  for  the  woods.     (See  Sporting 
Firearms.) 


KNAPSACKS  AND  BAGS  AND  THEIR  CONTENTS 

The  Knapsack 

Knapsack  versus  ditty-bag  is  an  old  controversy. 
The  knapsack  is  a  trifle  heavier,  but  it  has  shape  and 
its  contents  can  be  packed  so  that  they  remain  in 
place,  while  the  things  thrown  into  a  bag  are  apt  to 
indulge  in  a  scramble  for  the  bottom,  a  chaotic 
jumble  being  the  result.  On  this  account  the  knap- 
sack has  the  call.  There  are  several  good  ones  on  the 
market,  that  used  by  the  U.  S.  Army  being  as  good 
as  any.  Another,  of  canvas  waterproofed,  is  sold  by 
the  dealers;  get  the  smaller  size.  For  years  I  have 
used  one  of  the  cast-off  pattern  of  the  Massachusetts 
militia;  it  is  very  light  but  is  covered  with  glazed 
cloth  and  hence  not  so  strong  as  one  of  canvas.  Three 
pounds  should  be  the  outside  weight  and  the  sack 
should  be  provided  with  a  light  canvas  and  strap 
harness  fitting  easily  over  the  shoulders.  The  knap- 
sack is  used  to  carry  all  the  small  personal  belongings 
that  get  lost  in  a  bigger  bag,  and,  on  account  of  its 
shape  and  rigidity,  another  bundle  may  be  easily 
laid  across  it  in  portaging. 

It  is  somewhat  difficult  to  suggest  a  definite  list 
of  articles  to  be  carried  in  the  knapsack,  as  they 
must  naturally  vary  with  the  character  and  length 
of  the  projected  tour  and  the  wants  of  its  owner. 
There  are,  however,  certain  things  that  may  be 
recommended  for  any  trip,  especially  one  far  from 
civilisation.  Among  these  are: 


Personal  Outfit  43 

Mirror  Medicines 

Comb  Hypodermic  syringe 

Brush  Scalpel 

Tooth-brush  Playing-cards 

Extra  films  Diary 

Whetstone  Postal  cards 

Maps  Stationery 

Repair-kit  Mending-kit 

Reading  matter  Wind  fuzees 
Sandpaper 

Also:  Fishing-tackle  (in  case  fishing  will  be  only  incidental 
and  not  one  of  the  chief  objects);  instruments  for  blowing 
eggs  and  for  other  special  uses,  such  as:  barrel-reflector,  cart- 
ridge-extracter,  duck-call,  whistle,  etc. 

The  mirror  should  be  very  small  and  have  a  folding 
wire  stand  at  its  back,  by  which  it  may  be  hung  up  on 
a  nail  or  twig.  The  comb  should  be  strong  Toilet 

but  short;  the  brush,  if  one  be  taken  at  Articles 
all,  small.  The  tooth  -  brush  should  be  in  the 
sponge-bag,  or  in  a  bag  of  its  own,  the  proper 
place  for  which  is  in  the  war-bag  or  sleeping-bag 
(see  below),  and  the  same  may  be  said  for  the 
tooth-paste,  which  is  best  in  a  tube.  The  razor  may 
be  a  safety,  but  here  likes  differ.  I  pity  a  man  who 
has  to  shave  in  the  woods.  For  some  however  it  is 
the  greatest  luxury.  The  soap  may  be  contained  in 
a  celluloid  box  or  a  rubber  tobacco-pouch. 

The  best  whetstone  for  the  woods  is  the  carborun- 
dum, coarse  on  one  side  for  axes  and  hatchets  and  fine 
on  the  other  for  knives.     It  will  do  the 
work   perfectly,  and  is  the  best  approach 
to  a  grind-stone  I  ever  saw.     If    a    coarse    stone    is 
taken  in  the  camp-kit,  that  kept  in  the  knapsack  for 
knives  may  be  very  small. 


44  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

These  are  discussed  elsewhere  in  this  manual  (see 
Medicine  and  Surgery}.  I  always  carry  with  me 

a  small  medicine-case  containing  laxative, 
Medicines  .  . 

quinine  and  antipynn  tablets,  a  nrst-aid- 

to-the-wounded  packet,  a  scalpel,  bought  of  a  reputa- 
ble dealer  in  surgical  instruments,  a  hypodermic 
syringe  with  two  tubes  of  soluble  tablets  (see  Medicine, 
etc.),  a  tube  of  carbolated  vaseline,  and  sometimes  a 
small  bottle  (covered  with  olive-wood  or  wicker) 
of  witchhazel.  Also  a  roll  (flat,  not  round)  of  adhe- 
sive plaster,  a  couple  of  surgeon's  needles,  straight 
and  curved,  a  little  surgeon's  silk,  a  couple  of  mustard 
plasters,  etc. 

All  these  take  up  but  very  little  room  in  the 
knapsack. 

For  the  United  States  the  best  maps  are  those  of  the 
U.  S.  Geological  Survey,  made  on  a  scale  of  two  inches 

to  the  mile  and  costing  five   cents  each. 

The  Canadian  maps  are  far  less  satisfactory. 
Of  Nova  Scotia  there  exists  none  of  any  value  what- 
ever. Several  sporting  goods  dealers  have  fairly  good 
lines  of  maps  of  the  northern  wilderness,  as  well  as 
waterproof  envelopes  for  preserving  maps.  The 
best  way  to  use  them  is  to  cut  them  up  -into  conven- 
ient sizes,  after  having  pasted  them  on  linen,  in  case 
the  map  is  not  already  sold  in  this  form.  Be  sure 
to  keep  a  key  to  the  pieces,  or  you  may  be  confronted 
with  a  picture-puzzle  that  will  annoy  more  than  it 
will  illuminate.  A  good  way  is  to  number  the  pieces 
from  left  to  right.  Few  maps  of  remote  forest  regions 
are  exact  and  one  should  rely  more  upon  one's  guide, 
if  there  is  one  in  the  party,  than  upon  them.  The 
most  troublesome  features  are  the  small  unmapped 


Personal  Outfit  45 

lakes  which  are  apt  to  be  taken  for  larger  bodies  of 
water  on  the  maps  and  lead  to  great  confusion. 

A  thin,  leather-covered  note-book  about  7x4  inches 
in  size,  with  checked  paper,  is  convenient.  For  very 
long  trips  note-books  should  have  extra 
leather  envelopes.  A  few  postal  cards,  a 
couple  of  stamped  envelopes,  and  a  few  sheets  of 
paper  are  good  to  have.  The  envelopes  are  best  made 
of  linen,  in  case  a  letter  is  sent  out  of  the  woods  in 
a  guide's  pocket.  I  take  a  Waterman  pen  and  a 
couple  of  pencils,  one  a  marking  pencil  which  writes 
indelibly  when  moistened.  A  miniature  diary  con- 
taining the  record  of  sunrises  and  sunsets  and  the 
tides  will  be  important,  especially  if  no  watch  is 
carried.  If  one  carries  the  note-book  on  the  person 
it  should  be  provided  with  a  case  of  leather  or  water- 
proof canvas.  The  envelopes,  paper,  and  cards  should 
be  placed  in  a  waterproof  case  and  kept  in  the  flap 
of  the  knapsack. 

There  is  little  time  to  read  in  the  woods,  the  book 
of  nature  being  so  voluminous  and  so  fresh  and 
new  and  fascinating.  Nevertheless  a  small  Reading 
volume  of  one's  favourite  poet  or  story-  Matter 
teller  should,  for  piety's  sake,  find  an  abiding  place 
in  the  knapsack.  For  myself  I  take  two  kinds  of 
literature,  the  first  being  represented  by  a  small 
volume  on  some  subject  connected  with  the  forest, 
such  as  Nessmuk's  Woodcraft,  Wells's  Fly  Rods  and 
Fly  Tackle,  Van  Dyke's  Still  Hunter,  several  scientific 
manuals  of  the  Smithsonian  and  the  British  Museum, 
Chapman's  Handbook  of  Birds,  Gibson's  Camp  Life, 
books  on  trapping  and  photography,  some  sporting 


46  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

catalogue,  and  many  other  such.  Besides  one  of 
these  I  generally  take  either  a  tiny  volume  of  Burns 
or  Heine  or  Drummond  (the  poet  not  the  preacher!), 
or  else  a  French  novel,  such  as  some  yet  unread  ro- 
mance of  the  elder  Dumas,  the  charm  of  such  a  book 
being  that  one  is  translated  to  a  totally  different 
world,  only  to  be  reawakened  in  the  one  so  many  of  us 
love  best,  the  forest  -more  or  less  primeval.  It  is  a  de- 
light to  be  called  from  the  court  of  Henry  III.  or  from 
the  clash  of  blades  at  Blois  by  a  chipmunk  running 
over  your  legs  or  the  "Oohoo!"  of  an  owl  above  your 
head.  Another  way  to  collect  camp-literature  is  to 
lay  aside  any  interesting  newspaper  articles  or 
stories  that  look  promising.  A  wad  of  them  fits  into 
the  flap  and  takes  up  but  little  room;  they  may  be 
abandoned  when  read  or  in  the  way. 

A  pack  of  cards  (kept  in  a  stout  case)  is  the  source 
of  lots  of  fun,  especially  if  the  party  consists  of  the 
Playing  ideal  number,  four.  Guides  usually  like 
Cards  a  game  at  Pedro  and  two  rival  pairs  can 

fight  out  many  an  amusing  rubber  of  an  evening. 
If  there  are  any  chess  experts  in  camp  a  pocket 
board  may  be  included. 

Wind  A  few  boxes  will  be  found  convenient 

Fuzees  for  storms  or  to  light  the  pipe  in  the  canoe 
in  a  wind.  The  wax  fuzees  are  the  best. 

Of  repair -kits  I  confess  to  no  less  than  four, 
though  for  overland  journeys  I  combine  them  into 

....    one.    The  first,  which  however  is  carried  in 
air  -Kits 

the  camp-kit  or  war-bag,  is  the  ordinary 

handle  tool-kit,  the   various  tools    (gimlet,    reamer, 


Personal  Outfit  47 

chisels,  awl,  screw-driver,  etc.)  fitting  into  the  small 
end  when  used.  The  second,  which  is  but  an  experi- 
ment and  really  makes  the  first  unnecessary,  is  the  Na- 
panoch  kit,  consisting  of  a  jackknife  into  which  fit, 
strongly  and  well,  a  saw,  reamer,  chisel,  file,  etc.  I 
found  it  a  good  thing.  The  third  is  a  japanned  box 
about  six  inches  long,  the  contents  of  which  are  my  es- 
pecial joy.  Originally  the  box  contained  a  fisherman's 
repair-kit,  with  wax,  silk,  tiny  scissors,  cement,  file,  ex- 
tra rings,  tips,  and  guides.  These  things  are  still  in  it 
but  in  the  course  of  time  many  other  small  articles 
have  been  added,  such  as  eyelets,  grommets,  tacks, 
fine  wire,  tweezers,  sealing-wax,  and  what-not.  The 
whole  collection  forms  for  me  that  "ridiculous  item 
of  outfit"  which  Stewart  Edward  White  rightly 
asserts  that  no  woodsman  is  without.  My  fourth 
kit  is  a  simple  little  thread  and  needle  case,  containing 
several  kinds  of  silk  and  thread  (a  few  feet  only),  and 
a  small  assortment  of  needles  and  buttons,  as  well  as 
a  shoemaker's  needle,  some  waxed  ends,  and  a  few 
glove-fingers  for  cots.  Of  safety-pins  a  supply  should 
be  taken,  and  I  carry  half  a  dozen  stout  ones  pinned 
to  the  inside  of  my  vest.  In  my  knapsack  are  a  few 
giant  safety-pins  for  tent  or  blanket. 

A  few  sheets  of  different  coarseness  may  be  taken  in 
the  knapsack  flap,  together  with  a  sheet 
of  emery  cloth.     They  will  come  in  very 
handy. 

Most  of  the  other  articles  mentioned  in  the  list  as 
possible  candidates  for  the  knapsack  depend  upon  the 
season  and  the  object  of  the  outing,  and  are  described 
under  the  headings  of  the  sections  to  which  they 
more  properly  belong. 


48 


The  Way  of  the  Woods 


The  War-bag  (Duffle-bag) 

On  hard  trips,  when  everything  must  be  carried  on 
the  backs  of  the  party,  extra  duffle  may  be  packed 
between  the  blankets  or  in  the  sleeping-bag,  but  on 
ordinary  tours  it  is  generally  stored  in  an  extra 
receptacle  called  the  war-bag  (duffle-bag,  wangan-bag, 
dunnage-bag).  This  may  be  of  any  character,  but 
is  best  made  of  heavy  waterproof  canvas.  Those  who 
are  not  ingenious  enough  to  manufacture  such  a  repos- 
itory are  strongly  recommended  to  purchase  one  of 
a  dealer,  as  there  are  several  on  the  market  that  are 
much  better  and  more  durable  than  any  that  can  be 
turned  out  by  an  amateur  or  ordered  of  a  sailmaker. 
These  are  made  of  brown  waterproof  canvas  with 
protection-cloth  and  running  cord 
at  the  mouth,  and  are  of  various 
sizes.  One  36  inches  high,  18 
inches  wide,  and  weighing  about  2f 
pounds  costs  from  $1.50  to  $3.00 
according  to  the  quality  of  the 
material.  Even  the  cheapest  is 
good.  A  locking  device,  consisting 
of  a  brass  spindle  passing  through 
grommets  and  secured  with  a 
padlock,  can  be  had  for  $1.00 
extra.  There  is  a  handle  of  can- 
vas at  bottom  and  on  one  side. 
Bags  of  rubber  cloth  are  cheaper 
but  far  less  durable. 

The    contents    of   the   war-bag 
consists    of    extra    clothing    and 
everything   else   that    cannot    be  packed   elsewhere 
or    must    be    kept    dry.      Mine    has    contained    at 
different  times  oilskins,  extra  clothes,  films,  arsenic, 


FIG.  5.—  War-bag 


Personal  Outfit  49 

boot-grease,  bird's-egg  boxes  and  other  things  needed 
in  collecting,  folding  lantern  case,  sponge-bag,  etc. 

One  good-sized  war-bag  is  generally  large  enough 
to  contain  the  extra  dunnage  of  two  persons,  or  even 
three  at  a  pinch. 

Bedding 

This  is  a  question  of  blankets  or  sleeping-bags,  as 
cot-beds  are  too  heavy  and  bulky  for  any  but  per- 
manent camps,  where  the  ''Gold  Medal"  folding 
variety  may  be  used  to  great  advantage. 

Most  old  campers  (usually,  I  think,  from  habit  and 
ignorance  of  modern  improvements)  prefer  a  pair  of 
blankets  to  a  sleeping-bag.  The  blankets 
should  be  of  good  size  and  closely  woven. 
Among  the  best  are  the  U.  S.  Army,  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company's,  the  California,  and  the  Mackinaw. 
In  summer  one  will  do  if  you  want  to  go  very  light 
and  can  put  on  an  extra  suit  of  underclothes  at  night, 
but  a  pair  of  light  weight  will  be  safer.  With  them 
should  be  taken  a  waterproof  cloth  of  some  kind  to 
wrap  round  them.  A  light  poncho  will  do  the  trick, 
and  it  can  be  spread  on  the  ground  at  night  to  keep 
out  moisture.  One  advantage  of  blankets  is  that, 
in  high  latitudes  two  friends  can  "double  up"  and 
keep  each  other  warm.  A  few  giant  safety-pins  will 
turn  the  blankets  into  a  sleeping-bag  on  occasion. 
But  why  not  take  the  sleeping-bag  anyhow? 

Let  us  examine  the  chief  objections.  A  sleeping- 
bag  is  heavier  than  a  thick  blanket  and  even  than 
two.  Granted,  though  the  difference  is  Sleeping- 
very  slight.  It  is  more  expensive.  Granted  bags 
again,  and  this  is  a  real  disadvantage,  Mr. 


50  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Kephart  quotes  an  Antarctic  explorer  to  the 
effect  that  sleeping-bags  become  heavy  with  mois- 
ture and  remain  so.  Now  this  may  be  so  in  the  polar 
regions  but  certainly  not  in  the  north  woods.  Mr. 
Kephart  also  says:  "It  is  not  so  snug  when  you  roll 
over  and  find  that  some  aperture  at  the  top  is  letting 
a  stream  of  cold  air  run  down  your  spine,  and  that 
your  weight  and  cooped-up-ness  prevent  you  from 
readjusting  the  bag  to  your  comfort.  Likewise  a 
sleeping-bag  may  be  an  unpleasant  trap  when  a 
squall  springs  up  suddenly  at  night,  or  the  tent 
catches  fire."  Now  I  have  always  looked  up  to  Mr. 
Kephart  as  a  woodsman  sans  reproche,  but  I  am 
forced  to  believe  that  he  has  never  made  fair  trial 
of  a  good  sleeping-bag;  for,  if  there  is  one  thing  a  bag 
does  not  do,  it  is  letting  in  streams  of  cold  air  down 
your  spine,  and,  to  me  at  least,  it  almost  goes  without 
saying  that  a  man  is  wrapped  up  much  more  tightly 
in  blankets  than  in  a  bag,  and  hence  far  more  help- 
less to  rearrange  his  bed  without  pulling  things  to 
pieces.  It  is  just  precisely  the  ability  to  turn  over  in 
comfort  that  makes  me  love  a  sleeping-bag,  and  this 
springs  from  its  general  "stay-putedness."  As  to  the 
stuffiness  of  a  bag  I  confess  I  have  yet  to  discover  it.  A 
proper  bag  opens  down  the  side  and  ventilates  easily. 
It  is  a  little  more  difficult  to  air  out  in  the  morning  but 
not  much.  The  comparison  with  a  rubber  boot  is  most 
unjust,  and  though  harder  to  get  into,  it  takes  no  longer 
to  do  so  than  to  wrap  oneself  up  properly  in  blankets. 
As  to  getting  caught  inside  if  a  fire  breaks  out,  I 
will  engage  to  get  outside  of  mine  in  less  than  three 
seconds  if  necessary.  The  sleeping-bag  has  come  to 
stay;  my  Indians  have  made  themselves  a  couple 
out  of  blankets  and  waterproof  canvas.  Mr.  Kephart 


Personal  Outfit  51 

asserts  that  the  waterproof  cover  is  no  substitute 
for  a  roof  overhead  on  a  rainy  night;  and  yet  I  can 
assure  him  that  I  have  slept  out  in  mine  without 
a  tent  many  times  in  hard  rain  without  getting  wet 
in  the  slightest  degree,  except  when  rising.  Imagine, 
if  you  please,  the  state  I  should  have  been  in  with 
blankets  only.  A  lean-to  of  some  kind  would  have 
been  imperative  and  even  then  misery  would  have 
been  the  result.  Of  course  spending  the  night  without 
some  kind  of  a  shelter  is  not  to  be  recommended,  but 
my  experience  shows  what  the  bag  is  capable  of. 

There  are  two  good  varieties  of  sleeping-bags,  the 
regular  and  the  pneumatic.  The  regular  bag  consists 
of  a  waterproof  outside  covering  with  a  broad  flap 
at  the  top,  which  can  be  turned  down  over  head  and 
breast  or  erected  on  sticks  to  shed  the  wind.  The 
inside  consists  of  one  or  more  pure  woollen  bags 
cut  the  exact  shape  of  the  cover  and  laced  down  one 
whole  side  and  sometimes  round  the  bottom  to 
allow  easy  airing  and  proper  ventilation.  The  sides 
are  often  provided  with  snap-buttons  which  are 
quickly  adjusted  and  as  quickly  broken  open.  The 
best  sleeping-bag  I  am  acquainted  with  of  the  regular 
pattern  is  the  "  Johnson,"  the  cover  of  which  meas- 
ures seven  feet  by  three  feet.  It  laces  up  as  described 
above  with  a  device  which  renders  the  operation  a 
quick  one.  It  is  sold  with  any  number  of  inner  blank- 
ets, which  are  soft  and  not  thick,  on  the  theory  that 
several  thin  layers  hold  the  heat  better  than  one  of 
their  combined  weight.  Three  of  these  inner  blankets 
are  right  for  spring  or  autumn,  two  for  summer,  and 
four  or  five  for  winter.  An  advantage  of  this  many- 
layer  system  is,  that  one  can  make  his  bed  according 
to  the  temperature.  Thus  with  the  No.  4  "Johnson" 


52  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

bag,  which  has  three  inner  61ankets,  the  user  may 
have  three  thicknesses  under  and  three  over  him,  or 
two  over  and  four  under,  or  one  over  and  five  under; 
the  more  thicknesses  there  are  underneath  the  cooler 
vet  softer  will  be  the  bed.  The  No.  4  costs  $13.75, 
and  No.  3,  with  four  blankets,  costs  $17.  The  former 
weighs  twelve  pounds.  Another  well-made  bag  is  the 
11  Kenwood,"  which  has  the  opening  in  the  top  instead 
of  at  the  side.  Its  blankets  are  woven  nearly  to  the 
top,  which  renders  ventilation  more  difficult.  A  very 


FIG.  6. — Carry-all  Sleeping-bag 

excellent  bag,  especially  for  warm  weather,  is  the 
"Gold  Medal"  Camp-Combination  (Carry- All),  which, 
when  spread  out,  has  the  shape  of  a  Maltese  cross. 
The  sleeper  lies  on  the  central  parallelogram,  pulls 
the  bottom  flap  up  over  his  feet,  then  the  two  side 
flaps,  one  after  the  other,  over  his  body,  and  finally, 
if  desired,  the  top  flap  (which  is  pocket-shaped,  so 
as  to  be  stuffed  out  as  a  pillow)  down  over  his  head. 
The  Carry- All  is  lined  with  one  blanket,  either  heavy 
or  extra-heavy,  and  is  waterproof.  It  is  furnished 
with  grommets,  so  that  it  can  be  slung  on  side-poles 
or  suspended  as  a  hammock.  It  is  very  easy  to  get 


Personal  Outfit  53 

out  of,  as  a  toss  to  right  and  left  leaves  the  body  free. 
It  is  significant  that  when  I  offer  a  guide  the  choice 
-of  sleeping-bags,  of  which  I  possess  a  number,  he  will 
generally  take  the  Carry- All,  which,  indeed,  is  second 
choice,  as  he  well  knows  that  the  "Comfort  Sleeping- 
Pocket"  is  reserved  for  the  exclusive  use  of  the  "old 
man."  This  bag,  without  which  youngsters  can  get 
on  quite  well,  is  an  expensive  luxury,  but,  beyond  that, 
has  no  faults  save  one:  the  "old  woodsman"  will 
turn  up  his  nose  at  it  (and  its  user) ,  for — whisper  the 
heresy  with  bated  breath — it  is  an  air-bed!  I  said 
it  had  no-other  fault  but  the  cost  ($25 .00) .  This  is  not 


FIG.  7.— Comfort  Sleeping-Pocket 

strictly  true,  for  the  Pocket  is  a  little  heavier  than  most 
camp-beds,  weighing  eighteen  pounds,  a  fact  which 
renders  it  unsuitable  for  overland  trips  without  pack 
animals.  It  consists  of  an  outside  waterproof  covering 
with  top  flap,  one  side  buttoning  with  snap-buttons, 
the  covering  being  blanket-lined  and  containing  an 
air-sack  three  inches  deep  of  strong  rubber.  No 
extra  blanket  is  furnished  with  the  Pocket,  but  a 
light  one  may  be  inserted.  A  pump  comes  with  it, 
with  which  it  can  be  inflated  in  a  few  minutes,  or 
it  can  be  blown  up  with  the  mouth,  which  I  rather 
prefer.  It  certainly  does  take  some  moral  courage  to 
perform  the  operation  of  inflation  in  the  presence 


54  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

of  several  jibing  "old  campers,"  but  when  "finished 
and  you  ask  them  to  recline  for  a  moment,  they  go 
back  to  their  always  carelessly  made  bough-beds 
with  envy  in  their  eyes.  Hitherto  I  have  found  air- 
beds too  cold,  as  they  contained  too  many  cubic  inches 
to  be  warmed  by  the  body,  but  the  Pocket  is  thinner 
than  the  others  and  is  consequently  easily  heated 
by  the  body,  and  it  retains  the  heat  well.  Like  all 
"old  campers,  "  I  have  always  entertained  a  prejudice 
against  air-beds,  which  seemed  to  me  to  smack  all 
too  much  of  effete  luxury,  but  I  confess  to  having  con- 
quered this  prejudice.  The  longer  I  roam  the  woods 
the  more  thoroughly  convinced  I  become  that  the 
most  important  feature  of  camp  life  is  the  night's 
sleep,  and  my  recollection  fairly  swarms  with  the 
anathemas  of  guides  and  friends,  who,  too  proud  or 
too  lazy  to  build  a  proper  bough-bed  (a  task  involving 
a  lot  of  work),  cursed  "that  blamed  rock"  or  "that 
darned  stick"  that  was  just  under  some  tender 
spot  in  their  anatomies  and  seriously  disturbed  their 
slumber.  Give  a  man  a  good  bed  and  he  will  do  more, 
do  it  better,  and  have  a  lot  more  fun  doing  it  than 
his  neighbour  who  throws  himself  down  anywhere 
and  upon  anything,  just  because  he  has  schooled  him- 
self to  bear  with  (but  not  to  disregard,  look  you!) 
the  sticks  and  stones  and  humps  and  roots  which  make 
a  smooth  place  a  rare  thing  in  the  north  woods.  It 
is  an  interesting,  a  meritorious  task  to  live  comfortably 
in  the  woods  with  the  very  least  possible  help  from 
civilised  appliances,  and  if  the  object  of  your  outing 
is  principally  to  do  that,  then  the  cant  phrase  "play- 
ing the  game  fairly"  would  be  appropriate  and  you 
would  not  only  leave  air-beds  at  home,  but  also 
waterproof  tents,  breech-loading  rifles,  jointed  fishing- 


Personal  Outfit  55 

rods,  yes,  let  us  be  logical, — friction  matches,  cooking- 
kits,  and  all  clothes  save  those  of  skin!  Thereductio 
ad  absurdum  shows  that  it  is  a  question  of  drawing  the 
line.  The  man  who  prefers  to  go  into  the  woods 
with  one  blanket,  the  clothes  he  has  on,  and  the 
provisions  he  can  carry  on  his  back,  two  cooking 
and  eating  implements,  a  piece  of  fish-line,  and  his 
rifle  and  axe,  in  order  to  "  match  himself  against  the 
forces  of  nature"  and  win  from  her  by  his  woods- 
manship  a  comfortable  existence,  is  quite  justified 
in  his  undertaking  and  plays  a  fascinating  though 
arduous  game.  But  he  will  have  little  time  for  any- 
thing but  the  scratching  for  food,  fire,  and  shelter. 
Most  campers  are  not  out  for  this  purpose,  but  to 
breath  the  pure  air,  to  hunt,  to  fish,  to  botanise, 
collect,  photograph,  to  paddle,  to  walk,  to  see  the 
country.  For  my  part  the  making  of  a  bough-bed 
has  ceased  to  be  anything  else  but  a  disagreeable 
necessity;  I  would  rather  spend  a  half-hour  (and  in 
less  time  no  decent  bed  can  be  made)  in  preparing 
the  supper,  or  making  notes,  or  cruising  about  camp 
before  dark  to  look  for  signs  of  animals,  or  fishing  the 
nearest  pool,  or  rustling  wood.  In  a  word  it  is  as 
time-savers,  as  well  as  comforts,  that  modern  im- 
provements are  to  be  looked  upon.  This  is  one  advan- 
tage of  the  Comfort  Pocket.  You  unroll  and  spread 
it  out  in  the  tent  anywhere,  only  throwing  out  large 
stones  and  sharp  roots,  inflate  it,  and  a  soft,  warm 
bed  is  assured  you.  The  degree  of  softness  is  regu- 
lated by  the  inflation ;  if  just  right  the  bed  will  yield 
to  your  every  movement,  shoulder  and  hip  find  ready- 
made  those  little  excavations  that  old  campers 
sometimes  dig  for  themselves  in  the  ground  under 
their  blankets.  The  Pocket  is  hard  to  puncture,  the 


56  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

rubber  itself  and  the  covering  being  very  tough. 
Sparks  are  its  chief  enemies.  I  used  one  for  a  year, 
sleeping  in  it  for  perhaps  150  nights,  and  it  seemed 
to  be  in  perfect  condition  at  the  end.  The  only  thing 
that  disturbed  my  slumbers  was  the  thought  that  I 
was  a  brute  to  enjoy  it  all  alone,  and  the  sneaking  idea, 
born  of  many  years  of  roughing  it,  that  I  had  no 
moral  right  to  be  so  thoroughly  comfortable  in  the 
woods!  In  it  I  slept  out  a  half  a  dozen  nights  in 
autumn  and  several  times  snuggled  down  deep, 
pulled  the  top  flap  over  me,  and  laughed  at  the  hard 
cold  rain  pattering  on  the  cover.  In  the  morning 
the  flap  was  frozen  stiff  but  I  had  passed  a  com- 
fortable night,  being,  of  course,  provided  with  warm 
underclothing. 

Fur-lined  sleeping-bags  are  rather  warm  for  any 
season  but  winter,  besides  being  heavier  and  less  easy 
to  ventilate.  A  good  bag  may  be  made  from  a  nine- 
foot  down  quilt  (often  to  be  picked  up  shop-worn  at  a 
low  price)  folded  and  laced  round  the  bottom  and 
part  of  one  side.  It  should  really  have  a  waterproof 
cover,  which  the  camper  may  make  himself  if  he  is 
ingenious.  It  may  be  cut  from  so-called  balloon-silk 
(close,  thin  cotton)  waterproofed  (see  Waterproofing 
under  Tents'). 

The  sleeping-bag  cannot  be  kicked  off  like  blankets 
and  it  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  war-bag,  to  hold 
extra  clothes,  sponge-bag,  towel,  etc. 

I  mention  these  because  I  usually  pack  them  in 
my  sleeping-bag,  the  sponge-bag  folding  in  the  towels. 
Sponge-bag  The  bag  should  be  a  stout  one.  In  it 
Towels  are  a  very  small  sponge  for  the  face,  a 
rather  larger  but  yet  small  ditto  for  the  body, 


Personal  Outfit  57 

the  tooth-brush  inside  a  bag  of  its  own,  a  stout 
nail-brush,  a  piece  of  pumice-stone,  and  a  half  cake  of 
soap  in  a  celluloid  case,  the  other  half  being  stored 
as  reserve  in  the  war-bag.  Tar  soap  is  recommended 
for  fly-time,  or,  if  the  odour  is  not  liked,  hand- 
sapolio.  One  towel,  which  can  be  washed  often, 
is  enough.  The  best  is  an  old  and  soft  bath-towel 
of  unbleached  linen  colour.  A  special  face  towel 
may  be  taken  if  desired.  Tooth-paste  in  tubes  is 
best.  The  sponges,  or  one  of  them,  may  be  omitted ; 
in  fact  toilet  articles  are  quite  a  personal  item.  I 
have  often  limited  them  to  comb,  tooth-brush,  and 
soap. 

A  soft  lambskin  or  sheepskin  is  an  excellent  thing 
to  take  in  case  a  single  blanket  is  used,  ghee  skin 
making  a  soft  and  warm  bed. 

Inflatable  rubber  cushions  I  personally  hate.  The 
Sleeping-Pocket  is  furnished  with  one,  but  I  leave  it  at 

home.   A  small  linen-covered  hair  or  down 

Pillows 
pillow  may  be  taken  on  easy  trips  to  make  a 

smooth  top  to  a  bunch  of  spare  clothes.  If  you  cannot 
swim  and  are  likely  to  cross  big  lakes  a  rubber  cushion, 
one  of  the  kind  with  a  life-line  round  the  edges,  will 
not  be  out  of  place.  The  best  pillow  is  a  fifteen-inch 
bag  made  of  denim  or  brown  linen  left  open  at  one 
end,  which  is  furnished  with  a  pair  of  short  tapes. 
This  is  filled  on  the  tenting  ground  with  balsam  tips, 
exhaling  the  sweetest,  wholesomest  odour  in  the  world. 
If  no  balsam  is  to  be  had  any  other  filling  will  do, 
extra  clothing  being  the  usual  substitute. 

Leaving  the  air-bed  out  of  the  argument  the  most 


58  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

suitable  forest  mattress  is  the  browse-  or  bough-bed 
(see  Making  Camp).  In  regions  where  this  cannot 
be  counted  on,  a  portable  bed-tick,  a  trifle 
less  than  three  feet  wide  and  six  and  a  half 
feet  long,  is  convenient.  This  is  filled  with  moss, 
leaves,  clothing,  or  anything  else  that  is  suitable. 
Perhaps  better  is  the  double  endless  bag,  made  of 
light  duck  or  canvas,  seven  feet  long,  which  is  filled 
with  hay,  leaves,  browse,  or  clothing  and  either  laid 
upon  the  ground  or  stretched  on  two  stout  poles  thrust 
through  the  sides  and  fastened  to  logs  at  head  and  foot. 

Some  campers  take  along  a  haversack  or  cart- 
ridge-bag carried  at  the  side  by  a   strap  round  the 
shoulder.     Such  a  bag  is  convenient,  but 
the  many  large  pockets  with  which  the 
sportsman   should    be   provided  rather  obviate    its 
necessity. 

SPORTING  ARTICLES 

These  vary  with  the  tastes  of  the  camper.  Fire- 
arms for  warm-weather  trips  have  been  discussed 
already.  Fishing-tackle  will  come  under  Angling. 


CHAPTER  IV 

WOMEN  IN  THE  WOODS 

THE  average  woman  of  1830  had  a  traditional 
dread  of  everything  mannish;  she  cultivated  the 
languid;  her  appetite  was  rather  delicate;  she  was 
given  to  fainting.  If  she  could  have  foreseen  the 
Yankee  girl  of  1908  she  would  have  believed  that 
the  Amazons  had  returned  to  life  and  emigrated 
from  the  banks  of  the  Thermodon  to  people  the 
United  States.  And  of  a  truth  the  girl  of  the  day  is 
a  different  being  from  her  grandmother,  taller, 
stronger,  healthier.  All  she  has  lost  is  just  a  bit  of 
womanly  tenderness,  after  all  a  real  loss,  but  more 
than  compensated  for  by  her  gains.  She  has  been 
benefited  even  more  than  her  brother  by  the  "nearer 
to  nature"  movement,  and  sports  have  become 
almost  as  much  a  part  of  her  life  as  of  his.  There  is 
no  reason  -why  she  should  not  imitate  her  ancestress 
who  accompanied  her  husband  into  the  wilderness  and 
there  carved  out  a  home.  Camping-out  may  be  made 
as  easy  as  one  likes,  and  her  participation  in  the 
more  strenuous  phases  of  forest  life,  as  big  game 
hunting,  or  mountaineering,  may  depend- alorie  on 
her  physical  prowess.  One  other  thing,  however, 
she  will  probably  do  well  to  consider,  namely,  the 
question  whether  or  not  she  is  really  wanted  on  the 
trip;  for  there  is  unfortunately  a  very  large  class 

59 


60  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

of  male  sportsmen  who  absolutely  refuse  to  be 
"bothered  by  women-folks  in  camp."  It  must  be 
confessed  that  in  too  many  cases  a  man  takes  his 
ladies  into  the  woods  entirely  on  their  account,  from 
a  sense  of  duty,  and  that  ladies  in  the  majority 
of  cases  are  really  a  bother,  for  they  require,  tacitly 
if  not  actually,  constant  attention  of  one  kind  or  the 
other,  and  their  comparative  lack  qf  mobility  hampers 
the  movements  of  the  party.  I  say  "in  the  majority 
of  cases,"  for  women  there  are  who  fall  in  with  forest 
ways  so  readily,  and  who  help  themselves,  and 
understand  how  to  make  the  men  feel  at  liberty  to  do 
what  they  like  without  regard  to  them  (all  in  reason 
of  course),  to  the  extent  that  the  lords  of  creation 
at  the  end  of  the  trip  vote  them  "bricks"  and 
"not  a  bit  in  the  way."  That  is  high  praise  for 
the  woman  camper,  which  she  should  strive  to 
merit. 

The  important  thing  to  cultivate  is  independence. 
Let  the  men  of  the  party  once  discover  that  the  lady 
does  not  require  to  be  mollicoddled  or  waited  on  all 
day  long  and  that  she  is  a  "good  sport,"  which  is 
another  way  of  saying  that  she  takes  everything  as 
it  comes,  and  her  path  will  be  easy,  as  well  as  that  of 
her  male  companions.  But  from  the  nervous  woman, 
or  the  petulant  one,  or  her  who  screams  at  sight  of  a 
mouse  or  an  innocent  daddy-longlegs — good  Lord 
deliver  us!  It  is  mostly  a  matter  of  that  first  of 
social  qualities,  tact.  Blessed  is  she  who  is  helpful 
without  seeming  to  interfere;  happy  is  she  who  is 
not  afraid  that  her  hands  will  roughen,  her  feet  grow 
broad,  and  her  crow's-feet  deepen. 

Several  women  with  experience  in  camping  have 
favoured  me  with  their  views,  and  the  gist  of  their 


A   MODERN  DIANA 


Women  in  the  Woods  61 

wisdom  follows.     It  is  understood  that  spring  and 
summer  are  the  seasons  in  question. 

LADIES'  CAMPING  EQUIPMENT 

Outer  Dress:  Full  duxbak  or  khaki  suit  with  fairly  short 
skirt;  extra  cloth  skirt;  brown  or  dark  grey  knickerbockers. 
Silk  neckerchief.  Canvas  leggings. 

Underwear:  Two  or  three  sets  medium  weight  combination 
flannels. 

Shirts:  Grey  flannel  shirt,  similar  to  men's,  with  watch- 
pocket  in  breast.  Sweater. 

Stockings:  3  or  4  pair  coarse  cotton  (or  silk  or  light  wool?) 
for  high  boots.  Heavy  wool  stockings  for  moccasins. 

Headgear:  Felt  hat  with  stiff  brim  (to  keep  veil  from  face) 
or  straw  sailor-hat.  Dark  chiffon  veil.  Black  silk  head-net. 

Gloves:  Pair  of  thick  chamois.  Rubber  gloves  if  much 
washing  or  other  camp- work  is  to  be  done. 

Footwear:  High  waterproof  lace-boots  for  tramping. 
Moccasins  for  canoe.  Felt  slippers  for  camp.  Knit  bed- 
socks. 

Toilet-articles:  Tooth-brush,  tooth-powder,  hand-mirror, 
brush  and  comb,  soap  in  celluloid  case,  leather  bottle-case, 
sponge-bag. 

Medicines,  etc:  In  bottle-case:  Pond's  Extract,  brandy, 
Jamaica  ginger,  vial  ammonia,  soda-mint  tablets,  cold- 
cream. 

Specialties:  Rubber  wash-basin.  Two  small  nesting  pails 
for  hot  and  cold  water.  (Here  the  author  raises  his  eyebrows !) 

Waterproofs,  etc:  Yachting  oilskin  jacket.  Light-weight 
rubber  poncho.  Rubber  hood  with  cape. 

A  word  in  regard  to  appearance.  Men  like  women 
to  be  real  women,  to  be  modest,  and  to  be  as  good- 
looking  as  they  can  be.  Modesty  is  not  so  much  a 
matter  of  dress  as  of  demeanour.  One  woman  can  wear 
knickerbockers  without  a  skirt  and  appear  perfectly 
natural  and  modest  while  another — simply  can't. 
But,  in  the  name  of  all  that  is  beautiful  and  practical, 


62  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

do  not  wear  those  things  called  bloomers,  great  form- 
less baggy  balloons,  that  are  as  ugly  as  they  are 
awkward.  Knickers  should  be  well-fitting  though 
loose  and  easy  and  should  be  gathered  below  the 
knee  either  by  straps  or  light  elastics. 


CHAPTER  V 

CAMP    BAGGAGE 
TENTS 


FOR  the  average  temporary  dweller  in  the  wilder- 
ness his  tent  will  be  his  home  and  therefore  shares 
with  his  bed  the  honour  of  being  the  most  important 
feature  of  the  camp.  For  permanent  camps  tents 
made  of  canvas  (8-  or  zo-ounce  duck)  not  waterproof 
may  be  used,  as  they  can  be  furnished  with  a  "fly" 
to  stretch  over  the  top,  which  sheds  rain  and,  on 
account  of  the  current  of  air  between  tent  and  fly, 
makes  the  former  cooler.  Wall-tents  with  windows 
are  best  for  permanent  camps. 

But  we  are  now  concerned  more  with  shelters  which 
must  be  taken  with  us,  and  therefore,  to  save  weight, 
no  fly  is  used,  but  the  tent  is  made  of  some  waterproof 
material,  by  far  the  best  being  the  so-called  "balloon- 
silk,"  a  thin  but  stout  and  durable  Egyptian  cotton- 
duck,  which,  in  its  waterproofed  state,  was  first  used 
by  the  firm  of  Abercrombie  &  Fitch  in  their  tents. 
These  "silk"  tents  cost  more  than  most  others  but 
last  longer  and  weigh  from  one  third  to  two  fifths  less, 
besides  being  less  bulky.  They  may  now  be  found 
in  the  catalogues  of  several  dealers  who  have  imitated 
the  originators. 

There  are  many  different  varieties  of  tent,  and 
63 


64  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

each  has  its  devotees ;  it  is  pretty  generally  a  matter 
of  locality. 

A  tent  for  general  use  at  all  seasons  in  the  north 
woods  is  hard  to  designate.  Perhaps  the  lean-to 
(Baker  or  shelter-tent),  with  a  front  capable  of  being 
fastened  down  so  as  completely  to  close  the  tent 
in  stormy  weather,  would  be  first  choice.  But  nearly 
every  woods-dweller  who  comes  from  civilisation 
can  get  away  during  one  season  only,  spring,  summer, 
or  autumn,  seldomer  in  winter.  Many  years'  experi- 
ence have  brought  me  to  the  conviction  that  for 
spring  and  summer  the  best  tent  is  the  wall-tent, 
unless  extreme  lightness  of  kit  is  a  necessity,  in  which 
case  an  A-tent  is  the  thing.  For  autumn  the  lean-to 
as  above  described  is  best.  If  it  were  not  for  the 
prevalence  of  insects  and  rains  during  spring  and 
early  summer  I  would  never  use  any  tent  but  the 
open  lean-to,  but  facts  are  facts,  and  one  of  them  is 
that  in  the  roomy  wall-tent  you  can  fight  flies  and 
keep  out  rain  better  than  in  a  shelter  more  open  to 
the  elements.  Moreover  nowadays  wall-tents  are 
made  with  windows  and  are  thus  less  stuffy  than 
of  yore. 

The  ideal  wall-tent  for  two  persons  (big  enough  for 
three)  is  the  7^  by  9  feet  "  waterproof  silk,  "  with  back 
The  Ideal  window  of  bobbinet  which  may  be  closed 
Wall-tent  with  a  flap,  and  a  9  inch  sod-cloth 
running  round  the  bottom  edge  inside.  Poles, 
stones,  or  camp  stuff,  guns,  etc.,  are  laid  on  the 
sod-cloth,  keeping  out  weather  and  insects.  (See 
tent  on  the  left  in  the  frontispiece.)  The  usual 
tent  has  a  simple  slit  down  the  front  as  a  door,  but 
my  mosquito-proof  tent  has  an  oval  opening  covered 


Camp  Baggage  65 

with  bobbinet,  which  may  either  be  drawn  together 
in  the  middle  like  a  spider's  web  by  pulling  on  a 
cord,  or,  as  may  be  seen  in  the  picture,  tied  back 
round  the  edge,  allowing  free  passage,  except  that  one 
must  pick  up  one's  feet  at  the  "threshold."  The 
opening  is  also  covered,  when  wanted,  by  a  flap  of 
the  regular  material.  It  will  be  seen  that  Mr.  S.  E. 
White's  objection,  "fitting  tightly  enough  so  that 
you  have  almost  to  crawl  when  you  enter,  and  so 
arranged  that  it  is  impossible  to  hang  it  up  out  of  the 
way,"  is  hardly  just.  Mr.  White  recommends  rather 
an  inner  tent  of  cheese-cloth  made  without  any  open- 
ing whatever.  This  is  suspended  from  the  ridge- 
pole, slung  aside  when  not  needed,  and  dropped  when 
you  go  to  bed.  Cheese-cloth  tents  of  this  kind  can 
now  be  bought  ready-made.  Be  sure  to  kill  all  insects 
after  drawing  the  netting  for  the  night.  You  will 
have  to  chase  the  "skeets,"  while  the  midges  will  be 
mostly  found  on  the  front  of  the  tent,  down  low,  and 
the  black  flies  at  the  top  in  the  lightest,  warmest  corner. 
(Those  interested  in  midge-proof  tents  may  consult  the 
article  by  Mr.  H.  W.  Van  Wagenen  in  Forest  and 
Stream  for  June  2,  1906.) 

The  wall-tent  in  our  frontispiece  weighs  1 1  pounds 
and  costs,  without  window  or  netting  door,  about 
$20.00. .  Door  and  window  will  bring  the  cost  a  few 
dollars  higher.  The  same  tent  for  two  persons,  7^ 
by  7^  feet,  weighs  9  pounds,  and  costs,  without 
"fixin's,"  about  $16.00.  In  the  A  form,  which 
does  not  give  quite  so  much  room  to  move  round 
in,  the  smaller  tent  weighs  7^-  pounds  and  costs 
$13.50.  The  A  tent  may  be  furnished  with  a  25-foot 
ridge-rope,  by  which  it  can  be  suspended  between 
two  trees.  The  rope  may  be  made  tauter  by  forked 


66  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

poles  just  outside  the  tent  ends.  Where  no  trees  are 
available  the  two  ends  of  the  rope  may  be  made  fast 
to  stakes  in  the  ground  and  braced  up  by  the  forked 
poles. 

The  proper  manner  to  set  up  a  wall-tent,  and,  in 
case  no  ridge-rope  is  used,  also  an  A  tent,  may  be 
seen  in  the  frontispiece.  It  will  be  noticed  that, 
instead  of  the  usual  perpendicular  pole  in  front,  the 
ridge-pole  is  supported  by  two  crossed  slanting  poles, 
in  this  case  the  setting-poles  of  our  two  canoes. 
The  entrance  is  thus  left  unimpeded.  At  the  back 
the  usual  single  pole  is  used.  The  operation  of  actual 
setting  up  is  described  under  Making  Camp. 

In  the  autumn,  when  the  flies  have  ceased  from 
troubling,  the  lean-to  is  the  best  forest  home,  at 
Lean-to  least  for  temporary  purposes,  and  merits 
Tents  its  popularity  with  most  woodsmen  except 

perhaps  on  a  rainy  day,  when  a  closed  tent  has  its 
merits.  The  principal  advantages  of  the  lean-to 
are  its  airiness  and  warmth,  as  it  absorbs  by  reason 
of  its  slanting  roof  the  heat  of  the  camp-fire  in  front. 
A  glance  at  the  tent  on  the  right  of  the  picture  already 
mentioned  (frontispiece)  will  show  the  construction 
of  a  lean-to,  or  Baker  tent,  which  is  about  7  feet  high 
at  the  front  and  i\  feet  in  the  back  wall.  It  has  a 
front  wall,  thrown  or  rolled  back  (as  in  our  picture)  in 
fair  weather,  which  reaches  to  the  ground  and  can  be 
buttoned  to  the  side  triangles  in  a  storm,  making  a 
completely  closed  tent.  In  a  light  rain,  or  to  keep 
out  a  too  ardent  sun,  this  flap  may  be  stretched  out 
horizontally  in  front,  forming  a  kind  of  portico,  the 
corners  being  attached  to  poles.  The  7^  by  7^  silk 
lean-to  costs  $18.00  and  weighs  10  pounds.  The 


Camp  Baggage 


67 


9  by  7^,  which  costs  $20.00,  is  quite  large  enough  for 
four  persons,  provided  a  tarpaulin  or  other  shelter 
is  taken  along  for  the  provisions  and  other  extra 
baggage.  I  have  often  been  one  of  four  in  the  smaller 
size,  though  it  must  be  confessed  that  there  was  no 
more  than  room  to  sleep.  Two  tents  had  better  be 
carried  if  the  party  consists  of  four  or  more,  in  which 
case  one  alone  will  do  for  short  side  trips. 

Since  the  A,  the  wall,  and  the  lean-to  are  the  most 
suitable  tents  for  the  north  woods,  there  would  appear 
to  be  no  reason  to  describe  the  many  other 
varieties  such  as  the  Sibley,   the  Protean 
the   "poleless,"    the  miner's,    the    "vestibule,"    the 


FIG.  8.— Frazer  Canoe-tent 

Indian  teepee,   etc.,   descriptions  of  which  may  be 
found  in  the  dealers'  catalogues. 

The  Frazer  canoe-tent,  mentioned  by  Mr.   Perry 
D.    Frazer  in  his   Canoe   Cruising  and   Camping,    is 


68  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

primarily  a  one-man  tent,  though  there  is  room  for 
two  to  sleep  on  the  ground  if  must  be.  It  is  a 

L   conical  tent  with  steep  sides,  thus  shedding 
Canoe -tents 

ram,  though  not  of  waterproof  cloth,  and 

has  a  flap  on  one  side  that  opens  as  a  door.  It  is 
easily  set  up  and  not  heavy.  The  price  is  about 
$12.00.  (Apply  to  Hemenway  &  Son,  54  South 
Street,  New  York  City.) 

For  a  fast  trip  through  the  woods,  as  in  prospecting 
or  scouting  for  game,  a  small  tent  is  of  advantage,  the 
One-man  dealers  having  a  variety.  If  a  cot  is  pre- 
Tent  ferred  the  combination  cot  and  tent  sold 

by  the  Gold  Medal  Company  is  the  best  I  know, 
folding  up  into  a  space  38  inches  long  and  8  inches 
square. 

Never  take  ready-made  poles,  stakes,  or  pins 
Tent  into  the  woods,  as  they  are  better  cut  on 

Furnishings  the  camping-ground.  In  treeless  regions 
it  is  different. 

A  bag  of  drill,  gathered  with  a  cord  at  the  top, 
should  be  provided  for  every  tent.  It  should  be  made 
big  enough  to  contain  extra  articles  if  necessary. 

This  is  really  a  misnomer,  as  no  tent  is  a  proper 
habitation  for  the  north  woods  winter.  Nevertheless 
Winter  they  can  be,  and  often  are,  used  at  that 
Tents  season.  I  have  spent  some  weeks  in 

late  autumn  and  early  winter  in  a  "waterproof 
silk"  wall-tent,  in  fact  the  one  described  .above.  It 
is  provided  with  an  asbestos-rimmed  stove-pipe 
hole.  A  stove  is  necessary.  In  very  cold  weather 
one  must  be  careful  in  folding  waterproofed  tents, 


Camp  Baggage  69 

as  they  easily  break.  Warm  them  slightly  therefore 
before  packing. 

For  a  tent  not  larger  than  9  by  7  J  the  stove  should 
be  small,  in  order  not  to  take  up  too  much  room.     I 

have  used  the  common  round  pot-stove, 

.      i        •      -,•  .,i  i     1     •     xi      Tent -stoves 

1 1  inches  in  diameter,  with  one  hole  in  the 

top,  and  found  it  sufficient  to  cook  on  and  a  good 
deal  more  than  sufficient  as  a  heater.  In  fact  the 
worst  thing  about  a  tent-stove  is  that  it  blows  hot 
and  blows  cold  alternately,  but  is  extremely  difficult 
to  keep  temperate  without  constant  attention,  as  the 
fire  burns  out  so  quickly.  Hence  you  may  go  to 
sleep  with  the  mercury  at  80  and  wake  up  in  a  couple 
of  hours  to  find  it  10.  The  secret  is  to  get  the  hang 
of  the  door  and  damper,  so  that  the  fire  will  burn 
slowly,  and  to  have  a  supply  of  good  hardwood  cut 
the  proper  length.  A  bed  of  small  stones  and  earth 
may  be  laid  for  the  stove  to  stand  on,  and  stones 
should  be  built  up  round  it  to  prevent  the  bedding  or 
browse  from  catching  fire,  as  the  stove  gets  red-hot 
in  a  jiffy.  The  pot-stove  described  costs  $3.00,  with 
four  lengths  of  two-foot  telescopic  stove-pipe.  It 
has  no  bottom.  There  is  also  a  folding  camp-stove 
oblong  in  shape  and  having  two  top  holes.  It  folds 
into  a  space  27  inches  long,  12  inches  high,  and  i  inch 
wide,  and  weighs  in  its  canvas  case  13^  pounds  in  the 
smaller  size.  The  price  is  $5.75.  It  has  no  bottom, 
a  steel  bottom  with  legs  costing  $2.50  extra,  but  it  is 
not  necessary  if  a  proper  rock  or  clay  bed  is  made  for 
it.  Another  variety  is  the  box-stove,  which  does  not 
fold  and  costs  one  dollar  less.  The  pipe-lengths  of  these 
stoves  fit  into  each  other,  the  lower  one  being  provided 
with  a  spring  damper.  With  the  stoves  may  be  used 


70  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

an  oven  for  baking  and  roasting,  which  fits  on  to  the 
stove  and  is  heated  by  the  smoke  and  heat  of  the 
fire  passing  round  it. 

Tents,  or  indeed  almost  any  fabric,  may  be  rendered 
waterproof  and  practically  spark-proof  as  follows: 
Water-  Dissolve  ^  pound  powdered  alum  in  a 
proofing  bucket  (say  4  gallons)  of  soft  boiling  water, 
and  in  another  receptacle  J  pound  of  sugar  of  lead 
in  the  same  quantity  of  water.  When  dissolved 
and  clear,  pour  first  the  alum  solution  and  then  the 
sugar  of  lead  into  another  vessel.  After  standing 
several  hours  pour  off  the  water,  letting  any  thick 
sediment  remain,  and  soak  the  fabric  thoroughly 
in  it,  kneading  it  well.  Wring  out  only  slightly  and 
hang  up  to  dry. 

Waterproofing  may  also  be  done  with  paraffine, 
but  this  process  does  not  protect  the  fabric  against 
sparks  so  well  as  the  former.  The  paraffine  may  be. 
rubbed  or  grated  on  to  the  cloth  laid  on  a  table  and  a 
moderately  hot  iron  does  the  rest.  A  more  thorough 
way  is  to  dissolve  the  grated  paraffine  in  benzine  or 
turpentine  and  apply  with  a  stiff  brush  to  the  stretched 
fabric. 

Some  recommend  colouring  tents  a  light  tan  in 
order  to  be  less  easily  seen,  cooler,  and  less  attractive 
Tinting  to  flies.  Mr.  Kephart  says  that  this  can 
Tent  be  done  with  a  dye  made  of  2  pounds 

white  oak  bark  in  3^  gallons  of  boiling  water.  Or  a 
commercial  dye  may  be  used.  It  should  be  done 
before  waterproofing.  The  ideal  summer  tent  would 
have  a  dark  roof  and  light  sides. 

When  a  single  tent  is  taken  and  sidetrips  of  the 


Camp  Baggage  71 

duration  of  only  a  day  or  two  are  projected,  a  fly 

which  can  be  used  as  a  shelter  is  very  con-  „ 

-1^1       1  j  i_  j       £  ^1  •      Fly  as  Tent 

vement.     It  should  be  made  of  some  thin 

but  stout  material,  No.  i  Egyptian  sail-cloth  being  the 
best,  and  waterproofed.  (See  page  70.)  Eight  by  nine 
feet  is  a  good  size,  and  the  fly  should  have  grommets 
at  each  corner  and  at  frequent  intervals  along  the  sides, 
or  steel  rings  strongly  sewed  on.  In  each  corner- 
grommet  may  be  fastened  a  small  rope  about  4  feet 
long.  When  at  the  main  camp  this  fly  may  be  used  as 
a  dining  or  storage  canopy  (see  illustration  opposite 
page  70),  while  on  side  trips  it  serves  as  a  tent, 
put  up  lean-to  style,  or,  for  one  man,  like  an  A  tent, 
with  one  end  pinched  in  and  closed.  On  canoe 
journeys  it  is  spread  over  the  duffle. 

Unless  your  tent  is  provided  with  either  a  netting- 
door  or  an  inner  tent  of  cheese-cloth  or  bobbinet, 
it  is  advisable  in  fly  time  to  have  some  Mosquito - 
kind  of  a  mosquito-bar.  This  should  be  bars 

an  individual  article  unless  large  enough  to  cover 
the  whole  inside  of  the  tent.  The  single  bar 
may  have  a  top  consisting  of  a  small  hoop,  perhaps 
a  foot  in  diameter,  covered  with  cheese-cloth,  the 
net,  composed  of  the  same  material,  falling  in  the 
shape  of  a  bell  about  4  feet  long  and  the  same  wide, 
the  bottom  edge  being  weighted  with  half  a  dozen 
buck-shot  sewed  into  a  tape.  The  hoop  is  suspended 
at  the  proper  height  from  the  ridge-pole,  the  net 
falling  over  the  head  and  across  the  waist.  Com- 
mon mosquito-netting  is  too  coarse  to  keep  out 
no-see-ums  or  small  black  flies.  I  have  found  a  head- 
net  fairly  efficacious,  but  not  when  it  happened  to 
touch  the  face. 


72  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

A  ground-cloth  of  brown  waterproof  canvas,  large 
enough  at  least  to  cover  the  space  in  the  camp 
Ground-  between  the  beds,  is  a  luxury,  especially 
cloth  in  a  wet  season.  It  is  .taken  up  during 

the  day  unless  the  ground  is  damp.  It  costs  about 
$.06  per  square  foot.  If  a  poncho  is  in  the  party 
it  may  be  used  nights  as  a  ground-cloth. 

TEMPORARY  CAMPS 

If  trips  of  short  duration  are  undertaken  in  such 
light  marching  order  that  not  even  a  fly  is  allowed 
to  burden  the  kit,  it  is  necessary  to  knock  up  some 


FIG.  9. — Frame  for  Lean-to  Shelter 

kind  of  a  shelter  for  the  night.  In  the  case  of  a  man 
with  a  waterproof  sleeping-bag  with  broad  head- 
flap  this  need  not  be  more  than  a  wind-  or  rain-break. 
If  a  fly  or  poncho  is  taken  it  is  set  up  on  a  frame 
consisting  of  two  forked  uprights  connected  by  a 


Camp  Baggage 


73 


cross-pole,  and  a  slanting  pole  running  down  to  the 
ground  from  each  fork,  with  perhaps  a  third  in  the 


i*!»  v? 

^^uV^, 

Vp.sav-* 

.<A 


FIG.  10. — Poncho-Shelter 

middle.  Shorter  forked  poles  braced  against  the 
side-poles  keep  the  frame  stiff  and  strong.  If  no 
artificial  shelter  is  taken  a  frame  similar  to  the 
above  is  made  and  the  space  between  the  two  (or 
three)  slanting  poles  (covered  in  the  lean-to  by 
canvas  or  poncho)  is  filled  by  laying  parallel  poles 
closely  over  it,  the  whole  being  then  thickly  covered 
with  evergreen  boughs.  If  an  old,  easily  peeled  hem- 
lock is  available,  and  there  is  time,  cover  the  poles 
partially  with  bark  before  adding  the  boughs.  Fill 
in  the  sides  with  boughs,  or  small,  thick  evergreen 
trees,  and  you  will  have  a  very  comfortable  camp, 
which  will  be  rendered  glad  and  warm  by  the  camp- 
fire  in  front.  A  somewhat  similar  camp,  suitable 
for  a  single  person,  is  made  by  felling  a  hemlock, 


74 


The  Way  of  the  Woods 


cutting  at  about  4  or  5  feet  from  the  ground,  leaning 
the  trunk  firmly  and  safely  on  the  stump  and  filling 


FIG.  ii. — Bough  Lean-to 

in  one  side  with  the  limbs  and  boughs  cut  from  the 
side  destined  for  the  front. 

CANOE-SHELTER 

This  consists  merely  in  inverting  and  bracing  the 
canoe  as  a  shelter  for  the  head,  evergreen  boughs 
being  banked  thickly  at  the  sides  to  break  the  wind. 

If  the  weather  looks  at  all  threatening  better  take 
a  fly,  tarpaulin  or  poncho;  the  4  or  5  extra  pounds 
are  likely  to  repay  their  transport  well. 

Persons  of  any  skill  and  ingenuity  can  make 
their  own  tents,  and  I  strongly  recommend  them  to 
Tent-mak-  do  so,  especially  if  a  good  model  is  obtain- 
ing able  from  which  to  copy.  A  third  or 
more  of  the  cost  will  be  saved.  The  very  best 


Camp  Baggage  75 

material  is  No.  i.  Egyptian  sail-cloth  duck,  which 
can  be  obtained  of  Harrington,  King  &  Co.,  79 
Commercial  Street,  Boston,  Mass.  It  is  31  inches 


AC 

•  '-wi.'- 

FIG.  12. — Canoe-Shelter 

wide  and  costs  $.22  per  yard.  The  other  necessary 
materials  are  light  canvas  for  binding,  grommets, 
braided  clothesline,  etc. 

FURNITURE  AND  TOOLS 

Camp  furniture  may  be  divided  into  necessary 
articles,  such  as  axes,  cooking  utensils,  and  pack- 
baskets,  and  more  or  less  unnecessary  ones,  as  chairs, 
hangers,  folding  tables,  electric  lamps,  etc. 

The  longer  a  man  lives  in  the  wilderness  the  more 
he  loves  and  depends  on  his  axe,  and  he  will  usually 
lug  one  with  him  even  for  a  single  night, 
looking  upon   all   hatchets   as  playthings. 
And  it  must  be  confessed  that  the  only  absolutely 
satisfactory  instrument  of  the  family  is  the  big,  long- 
handled  axe,  and  a  full-sized  one  should  be  taken  along 
if  the  party  contains  three  or  more  persons,   neces- 
sitating the  cutting  of  much  wood.     For  small  parties 
or  on  short  trips  a  "  half-axe"   (2^  pounds)  will  do, 


76  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

though  a  "three-quarter"  (3  pounds)  is  better;  in  fact 
the  three-quarter  in  the  hands  of  a  good  axeman  is  a 
a  pretty  efficient  weapon,  and  is  quite  large  enough  for 
warm-weather  trips  unless  a  cabin  is  to  be  built.  Axe- 
handles  made  by  manufacturers  are  nearly  always 
too  crooked,  and  the  first  thing  a  woodsman  does 
is  to  "hang"  the  head  on  a  handle  of  his  own  make. 
An  amateur  cannot  do  this,  but  he  can  buy  the 
straightest  handle  he  can  find  and  see  that  it  is  in 
absolute  line  with  both  edge  and  back  of  the  head. 
In  a  permanent  camp  have  two  axes;  two  men  like 
to  chop  together;  it  is  company  and  lightens  the 
work.  Besides  it  offers  an  excellent  chance  for  the 
tenderfoot  to  take  a  valuable  lesson  in  this  difficult 
and  necessary  art.  Imitate  the  guide  and  get  him 
to  criticise.  It  is  hard  work,  especially  until  one  gets 
the  knack  of  it,  but  there  is  no  exercise  better  suited 
to  knit  the  frame  together  and  strengthen  back 
and  shoulders.  The  axe  is  a  dangerous  implement  in 
the  hands  of  a  duffer,  who  is  always  wanting  to  get 
hold  of  it  and  hack  at  something,  to  the  detriment 
of  the  axe  and  the  agony  of  its  owner,  who  will 
probably  have  to  devote  the  best  part  of  an  hour  to 
filing  down  some  nick  in  the  edge.  If  you  see  such  a 
man  start  "fooling"  with  a  good  axe  (and  no  other 
should  be  in  camp)  face  him  with  determination, 
even  if  he  be  your  superior  officer  in  everyday  life, 
and  offer  him  the  choice  of  two  alternatives:  either 
to  keep  his  hands  off  the  axe  or  to  proceed  at  once 
to  learn  how  to  use  it  under  the  eye  of  the  best  axe- 
man in  camp.  For  not  only  the  axe  suffers  but  also 
its  wielder,  and  even  among  old  woodsmen  there  are 
few  who  do  not  carry  a  scar  or  two  made  by  a  glanc- 
ing blow.  Very  few  "city  fellers"  are  good  axemen. 


Camp  Baggage  77 

Some  of  them  may  rival  the  guides  in  using  the  rod 
and  gun,  and  can  even  tote  as  much  and  cook  better, 
but  when  it  comes  to  swinging  the  ringing  steel  nine 
out  of  ten  have  to  "cry  small."  This  is  quite  natural, 
for  every  guide  begins  to  use  an  axe  before  he  can 
lift  it,  and  most  have  served  an  apprenticeship  in  the 
lumber-woods.  On  the  other  hand  the  sportsman, 
feeling  his  inferiority  and  not  wishing  to  waste  time 
(or  show  his  weakness!),  leaves  all  the  heavy  chopping 
to  the  guides  and  thus  gets  no  practice  in  the  art. 
But  this  is  wrong.  Take  a  few  lessons,  and  while 
practising  be  sure  to  deliver  the  stroke  in  such  a 
manner  that,  if  the  axe  or  hand  slips,  the  edge  will 
fly  clear  of  your  legs.  Like  fencing  or  billiards  it  can 
be  learned,  at  least  to  a  certain  degree  of  proficiency, 
and  it  is  as  much  a  matter  of  knack  as  of  muscle.  The 
perfect  judgment  as  to  where  to  strike,  the  unerring 
eye  and  hand,  the  economy  of  every  pound  of  muscle, 
the  nice  gradation  of  effort  which  might  be  called  the 
dynamics  of  chopping,  in  a  word  the  absolute  ease 
and  finish  of  the  stroke — all  this  is  indeed  an  art. 
There  is  nothing  in  the  woods  that  so  fills  the  ama- 
teur with  despairing  admiration  and  envy  as  the 
manner  in  which  an  old  woodsman  uses  his  axe. 

Before  starting  grind  your  axe  well  or  have  it  done 
for  you.  A  new  axe  must  be  ground  as  well  as  an 
old  one. 

There  is  nothing  to  be  gained  by  including  in  this 
manual  elaborate  rules  for  using  the  axe,  as  it  can  be 
learned  solely  in  the  woods  and  from  experience, 
learning  from  and  watching  the  work  of  a  good  axe- 
man. But  there  is  one  golden  rule:  don't  try  to 
strike  too  hard  a  blow;  be  accurate  first  and  increase 
the  force  only  as  you  acquire  accuracy.  Get  to  know 


78  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

the  character  of  the  trees  in  your  region  and  the 
quality  of  their  woods,  especially  in  regard  co  cutting 
and  burning.  Do  not  leave  an  axe  out  all  night  if  it 
freezes;  the  steel  will  become  brittle.  Avoid  knots 
whenever  possible. 

Take  with  you  a  file  (probably  already  in  your 
fishing-tackle  repair-kit)  and  a  carborundum  stone, 
Sharpening  with  which,  barring  a  very  deep  nick,  you 
and  Renew-  can  keep  your  axe  in  good  condition.  A 
ing  Handles  leather  muzzle  or  case  is  recommended  for 
the  axe,  to  be  used  in  transportation;  I  have  seen 
both  men  and  canoes  injured  by  sharp  axes  in 
travelling. 

To  burn  out  handles  sink  the  head  in  soft  earth  up 
to  the  handle  and  build  a  fire  round  it ;  it  will  not  hurt 
the  temper. 

A  camp-hatchet  should  be  taken  as  an  adjunct 
to  the  axe,  for  pitching  tents,  making  brush-camps, 
H  t  h  t  cutting  browse,  splitting  small  wood,  and 
general  use  about  camp,  as  well  as  to  take 
on  side  trips,  for  which  reason  it  should  have  a 
leather  muzzle  with  straps  to  attach  to  the  belt. 
There  are  two  varieties,  the  light  and  the  heavy. 
The  best  of  the  light  kind  is  the  Marble  Safety  Axe, 
which  is  made  of  very  excellent  material  and  is  small 
enough  to  carry  in  the  hip-  or  coat-pocket,  though 
better  slung  on  the  belt,  where  it  is  out  of  the  way, 
except  in  sitting  down,  when  it  can  be  pulled  forward 
so  as  not  to  interfere.  The  tomahawk  shape  is  best 
for  a  light  hatchet.  The  Marble,  which  has  a  safety 
guard  fitting  back  into  the  handle  when  not  in  use, 
comes  in  16-,  20-  and  27-ounce  weights.  The  heaviest 


Camp  Baggage  79 

is  the  most  desirable  for  real  use  in  the  woods.  ($3.00.) 
There  may  be  other  light  axes  to  be  bought  cheaper 
of  dealers,  but  my  experience  with  numbers  of  them 
has  been  unfortunate,  as  they  either  have  poor  and 
brittle  steel  or  the  handles  are  far  too  curved,  the 
proper  handle  being  nearly  or  quite  straight,  as  a 
curved  handle  makes  the  hatchet  awkward  to  use  as 
a  hammer.  The  Marble  hatchet  is  provided  with  a 
nail-extractor,  a  handy  feature. 

The  heavy  variety  of  hatchets  I  personally  prefer, 
for  the  simple  reason  that  more  can  be  accomplished 
with  a  heavier  head,  and  they  are  but  slightly  bulkier 
than  the  pocket  axe.  A  heavy  hatchet  should  have 
a  stout  head  weighing  at  least  two  pounds  (I  prefer 
2^)  and  a  15-  or,  better,  ly-inch  handle.  Such  a  one 
is  the  Collins,  which,  with  leather  carrying-case,  costs 
$1.50.  With  it  you  can  cut  down  good-sized  trees 
if  necessary,  See  that  your  hatchet  is  not  too  thin 
each  side  where  the  handle  fits  into  the  head ;  other- 
wise a  smart  blow  with  the  side  when  driving  stakes 
will  likely  crack  it.  The  side  is  not  the  best  place 
to  hit  with,  but  one  instinctively  uses  it  when,  for 
example,  the  stake  is  thin  or  its  top  becomes  smashed 
out  broad.  A  good  and  slightly  lighter  hatchet  is  the 
"Peavey,"  weighing  ij  pounds. 

Saws,  spades,  and  such  implements  should  be  left 
at  home  unless  their  use  is  foreseen,  as  in  the  case 
of  building  a  cabin.  A  few  rivets,  washers,  T 

etc.  will  be  contained  in  your  knapsack 
tool-kit  anyhow.      Two  items,  however,   should  not 
be  forgotten:    a  couple  of  dozen  stout  nails,  say  at 
least  3  inches  long,  and  a  coil  of  small  rope,  or  braided 
cotton  clothes-line,  perhaps  20  or  30  feet.    The  nails 


8o 


The  Way  of  the  Woods 


go  into  the  bottom  of  the  pack-basket,  while  the 
rope  may  be  kept  in  the  tent-bag,  into  which  may 
also  go  a  half  a  dozen  raw-hide  thongs. 

This  is  hardly  necessary,  but  if  taken  it  should  be 
a  good  one  covered  with  thick  felt  and  over  that 
brown  duck.  The  canteen  may  be  of  alu- 
minum if  only  for  water,  but  alcoholic 
drinks  should  not  be  carried  in  aluminum.  A  good 
canteen  is  that  approved  by  the  army;  it  is  provided 
with  a  strap  to  carry  round  the  shoulder  and  costs 
$2.00. 


Canteen 


In  one-pole  tents,  like  the  Sibley,  patent  hangers, 
for  clothes,  guns,  etc.  are  handy,  but  have 
no  place  in  wall-tents  or  lean-tos. 


Hangers 


The  north  woods  camper  looks  upon  these  things, 
Ready-made  such  as  folding  chairs,  table,  shelves,  and 
Furniture  the  like,  with  some  disdain  on  account 
of  their  bulk.  If  you  change  camp  often  it  is 
a  bother  to  carry  them,  and  if  you 
make  a  permanent  home  most  of 
them  can  be  manufactured  with 
the  axe.  (See  Making  Camp).  One 
exception  is  perhaps  the  folding 
brown-duck  water-pail.  This,  how- 
ever, is  also  really  unnecessary  if  the 
cooking  and  camping  kit  described 
in  Chapter  VIII  is  taken,  for  it  con- 
tains three  pails.  The  folding  bucket 
is  convenient  when  pack-animals 
are  used.  As  for  wash-basins  and 
tubs,  the  north  woods  are  full  of  them;  they  are 


FIG.  13. — Folding 
Bucket 


Camp  Baggage  81 

generally  called  lakes  and  streams.  If  the  trip  is 
an  easy  one  with  few  and  short  carries  a  folding 
table  is  legitimate,  as  it  is  very  convenient  and  saves 
time,  but  its  proper  place  is  in  a  permanent  camp. 

On  easy  trips  take  two  lanterns  for  a  party  of 
four,  one  common  round  lantern  with  wires  to  protect 
it  and  burning  kerosene,  and  a  folding  ' '  Stonebridge  " 

lantern    which    takes    candles,    but   they 

Lanterns 
must  not  be  the  common     wax     or  tallow 

candles  found  in  country  stores,  as  these  are  apt  to 
wilt  in  a  "Stonebridge,"  but  of  the  hard-pressed 
variety.  See  that  they  fit  the  lantern  before  buying. 
(Price,  aluminum,  $2.75  with  case;  steel  $1.00  less.) 

Either  kerosene  or  carbide  may  be  used  in  the  big 
lantern,  the  latter  being  cleaner.  Kerosene  should 
be  carried  in  cans  with  screw-tops  and  wrapped  in  a 
special  cloth.  It  should  not  be  kept  near  the  provis- 
ions, for  obvious  reasons.  For  candlesticks  see 
Making  Camp. 

Acetylene  and  similar  lighting  outfits  are  unfit  for 
the  woods  on  account  of  their  bulk;  and  they  smack 
too  much  of  cities. 

A  small  electric  pocket  lamp  is  convenient  when 
you  want  to  get  up  early  and  have  to  consult  your 
watch.  I  have  taken  great  comfort  in  one  when 
moose-calling,  as  it  saved  repeated  searching  for  and 
striking  matches  in  the  morning  before  crawling  out 
of  my  bag.  For  ordinary  trips  it  is  an  out-and-out 
luxury. 

A  woodsman  of  ingenuity  can,  at  a  pinch,  fit 
himself  out  pretty  well  in  the  summer  season  with- 


82  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

out  recourse  to  the  shops.  Forks,  spoons,  and  other 
implements  are  whittled  out  with  the  jack-knife 
Rustic  and  plates  cut  from  the  bark  of  the  birch 
Utensils  Or  hemlock.  Flat  stones  may  serve  as 
plates  and  also  broilers.  A  good  spoon  is  made  of 
a  clamshell  held  by  a  split  handle  tied  with  string  or 
a  piece  of  spruce  root.  A  good  drinking-cup  is 
fashioned  of  a  parallelogram  of  birchbark  twisted 
into  pyramid  form  and  fastened  with  a  split  stick. 
Do  not,  however,  strain  your  confidence  in,  its  work- 
manship to  the  point  of  letting  any  liquid  stand  long 
in  it. 


FlG.  14. — Bark  Drinking-Cup 

An  absolute  necessity  in  every  camp  is  the  pot- 
lifter,  which  is  merely  a  green  stick  about  18 
inches  long,  formed  by  allowing  a  few  inches  of  a 
stout  branch  to  remain.  (See  Making  Camp.)  It 
should  be  kept  in  a  special  place  when  not  in  use, 
to  avoid  useless  searching.  In  a  permanent  camp  a 
broom  is  a  good  thing.  It  is  made  by  tying  hemlock 
twigs  round  some  kind  of  a  handle  and  trimming  them 
off. 


Camp  Baggage 


With  the  aid  of  old  tin  cans  several  utensils  can  be 
manufactured,  for  instance  a  cup,  a  handle  being 
fashioned  of  wire  which  is  bound  round  top  and 
bottom,  the  handle  coming  between.  (For  cooking- 
kits  see  Cookery). 

BASKETS,  CASES,  AND  HARNESSES 

The  pack-basket  is  the  favourite  carrying  contri- 
vance of  the  north  woods,  and  rightly  so,  for  it  is  the 
most  convenient  and  the  driest.  It  has  a  Pack- 

flat  back  to  fit  the  carrier's  person  and  Basket 
straps  to  go  over  the  shoulders,  with  sometimes 
an  extra  tump-line  for  the  forehead.  One  variety, 
very  popular  in  the  Maritime  Provinces,  has  a 
single  broad  strap  which 
goes  round  the  bearer's 
chest,  but  one  must  be 
accustomed  to  this  from 
boyhood  to  overcome  the 
feeling  of  oppression  in 
the  chest.  Pack-baskets 
are  to  be  found  at  any 
"jumping-off  place,"  .and 
are  generally  furnished  gra- 
tis by  the  guides,  but  they 
are  always  of  the  common 
kind  with  no  protection 
against  the  wet.  The  deal- 
ers offer  a  better  one,  though  too  high  in  proportion 
to  its  breadth,  covered  with  waterproof  canvas  that 
will  keep  its  contents  dry  even  in  a  deluge.  The 
best  quality  ($5.00  or  $6.00)  is  provided  with  a 
locking  apparatus.  Nessmuk  advocated  the  loose 


FIG  15.— Pack  Basket 


The  Way  of  the  Woods 


Food-Bags 


knapsack  for  carrying  provisions,  a  very  bad  piece 
of  advice. 

Bags  made  especially  for  provisions,  and  designed 
to  be  carried  in  a  pack-harness  (see  below),  are 
Provision-  also  sold  by  the  dealers.  They  cost 
Bags  from  $.75  to  $1.50,  according  to  size.  I 

much  prefer  pack-baskets.  If  chosen,  the  waterproof 
food-bags  made  especially  to  fit  the  harness  are  recom- 
mended. They  are  of  several  sizes,  according  to  the 
kind  of  provision  to  be  contained  in  each, 
and  cost  from  $1.00  per  dozen  (holding 
5  pounds)  to  $1.50  (holding  10  pounds).  It  will  be 
necessary  to  have  separate  food- 
bags  of  some  kind  for  the  pro- 
visions. If  made  at  home 
waterproof  No.  i.  sail-cloth  duck 
is  best. 

They  should  be  from  8  to  18 
inches  in  length  and  wide  in 
proportion,  and  should  have 
running  tapes  at  their  mouths, 
Potatoes,  onions,  canned  goods, 
etc.  are  usually  carried  in  com- 

FIG.    16. — Pack-Harness 

with  Food-Bags          I*10*  meal-bags. 

This  is  a  combination  of  straps  and  canvas  shoulder- 
piece  which  I  never  go  far  without,  for  you  can  pack 
Pack-Har-  anything  in  it — tents,  sleeping-bags,  pro- 
ness  visions,  etc.  It  costs,  with  tump-line, 
$2.75,  and,  if  you  plan  to  do  much  carrying,  my 
advice  is  to  get  one,  for  you  are  then  sure  of  a 
load  that  sits  easily  on  the  shoulders  and  is  prop- 
erly balanced.  My  fellow-guides  said  sarcastic 


Camp  Baggage  85 

things  about  mine  when  I  first  produced  it ;  now  they 
borrow  it. 


This  head-carrier  consists  of  a  band  of  leather 
attached  to  two  leather  thongs.  It  is  popular  in 
Canada,  but  hardly  elsewhere.  If  you 
buy  one  have  its  use  carefully  explained. 
The  secret  lies  in  the  method  of  folding  the  pack  to  be 
attached  to  the  thongs. 


Tump-Line 


The  pack  and  tump-line  are  advocated  by  those 
who  aver  that  pack -baskets  balance  a  canoe  badly 
and  have  other  disadvantages,  which  I  "Canadian 
for  one  do  not  admit.  Mr.  B.  H.  Mills,  an  Pack" 
admirer  of  the  pack,  thus  describes  it  in  Recreation: 

This  is  made  with  a  pack-cloth 
six  by  seven  feet  in  size  .... 
To  make  the  pack,  lay  your 
pack-cloth  on  the  ground.  Then 
stretch  the  two  portions  of  the 
tump-line  on  the  pack-cloth,  the 
long  way.  each  strap  being  about 
one  foot  from  the  edge,  with  a 
four-foot  interval  between  them. 
The  central  portion  of  the  strap, 
containing  the  head-band,  lies  on 
the  ground  at  the  head  of  the  pack- 
cloth  and  beyond  it. 

Each  edge  of  the  cloth  is  now 
folded  over  the  straps. 

Next  lay  your  duffle  in  as  com- 
pact a  pile  as  possible,  soft  things, 
such  as  tent  and  blankets,  on 
top,  the  pile  being  near  the  end 
where  the  head-band  is.  Fold  the  loose  end  of  the  cloth 
over  the  pile,  bringing  the  other  end  up  to  meet  it.  If 
the  cloth  is  found  to  be  too  long,  start  over  again, 


FIG.  17. — Harness  with 
Tump-Line 


86  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

folding  the  end  of  the  cloth  up  to  the  proper  distance  before 
laying  the  straps  on. 

When  the  pack  is  folded,  hold  fast  to  the  strap  near  the 
head-band,  and  pull  on  the  loose  end.  The  edge  of  the  pack 
will  shirr  up.  Tie  a  single  running  knot,  and  attach  the 
other  side  in  the  same  manner.  Now  bring  your  loose  ends 
together  in  the  middle  of  the  pack,  loop  them,  and  pass 
them  around  the  whole,  tying  a  double  knot — the  only 
knot  in  the  whole  pack — a  great  advantage  when  one  is 
unpacking. 

Finally,  adjust  the  strap  to  the  head-band  by  means  of  the 
buckles,  and  your  pack  is  ready  to  be  carried.  The  head-band 
is  passed  over  the  top  of  the  head,  immediately  back  of  the 
forehead,  and  the  pack  rests  down  on  the  hips. 

It  sounds  hard,  but  it  isn't,  after  you  have  tried  it. 

Telescopic  cases  of  fibre  for  packing  provisions  and 
duffle  by  railway  are  convenient  though  expensive 
Travelling  ($8.00).  Common  trunks  are  generally 
Cases  used.  The  cases  are  good  to  preserve  kits 

in  permanently. 

In  the  woods  I  have  always  found  a  war-bag  and  a 
pack-basket  sufficient,  helped  out,  if  the  trip  was 
by  water,  by  a  wooden  box  or  two,  into  the  sides  of 
which  holes  for  the  hands  have  been  cut. 


CHAPTER  VI 

CANOES 

ALTHOUGH  the  skiffs  common  in  the  Adirondacks 
are  light  and  convenient  craft  and  can  be  portaged 
with  canoe-yokes,  they  are  nevertheless  heavier  than 
canoes,  are  made  of  wood  and  thus  tender  and  hard  to 
repair,  and  they  are  propelled  with  oars,  which  are 
very  awkward  in  rapids  or  among  rocks.  The  proper 
pattern  of  canoe  is  the  open,  or  Canadian,  copied  from 
the  primitive  craft  of  the  Indians,  since  it  is  lightest, 
toughest,  and  will  carry  more  than  any  other  style. 
The  Rob-Roy  one-man  style  (both  ends  covered, 
the  paddler  sitting  in  a  cockpit  in  the  middle),  pro- 
pelled by  a  double-bladed  paddle,  is  excellent  for  open 
streams,  but  far  inferior  to  the  Indian  pattern  for 
the  woods,  and  especially  among  rapids. 

Canoes  made  by  the  Indians  have  always  been, 
and  still  are,  constructed  of  birch-bark  over  an  ash 
and  spruce  frame,  while  the  white  man  has  reproduced 
the  pattern  but  changed  the  materials,  one  style 
being  of  cedar  or  basswood  planking  over  a  hardwood 
frame,  and  the  other  sheathed  with  cedar  over  a 
frame  and  the  whole  covered  with  rilled  and  painted 
canvas.  Of  these  three  styles  the  all-wood  canoe  may 
be  dismissed  at  once,  as  it  is  far  too  frail  to  risk  in 
rapid  water,  and  too  difficult  to  repair.  Indians  and 
backwoodsmen  have  hitherto  preferred  the  birch- 

87 


88  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

bark  canoe,  principally  because  they  are  most  famil- 
iar with  it  and  because  of  its  cheapness.  It  is  inferior, 
however,  in  nearly  every  way,  to  the  canvas-covered 
cedar  canoe,  now  the  recognised  craft  of  wilderness 
tourists.  The  latter  is  cheaper  than  the  birch-bark, 
since  it  lasts  much  longer.  Even  when  new  the  birch- 
bark  is  not  so  swift  or  easy  to  paddle  as  the  canvas, 
owing  to  its  rougher  workmanship.  It  is  easily 
lacerated  and  punctured,  allowing  the  bark  to  become 
water-soaked,  and  the  holes  and  lacerations  must 
then  be  covered  with  strips  of  cotton  dipped  in  melted 
resin.  The  result  is  that  the  birch  becomes  heavier 
and  rougher  every  day  of  its  life,  while  each  new 
wound  is  an  added  weakness.  Nor  has  it  any  seats. 
The  canvas  canoe  is  tougher,  its  lines  are  more  grace- 
ful, and  its  wounds  are  more  easily  and  permanently 
healed  by  the  application  of  white  lead  and  shellac, 
with  a  tiny  strip  of  silk  over  or  under  a  particularly 
bad  cut.  (See  below,  Repairs.)  The  predilection  of 
certain  otherwise  excellent  authorities  for  the  bark 
canoe  is  inexplicable  on  any  other  ground  than 
a  lack  of  experience  with  the  canvas.  For  those 
who  know  both  there  is  no  question  whatever. 

According  to  my  investigations,  the  canvas-covered 
cedar  canoe  is  a  product  of  the  State  of  Maine,  having 
been  first  made  on  the  Penobscot  River  about  30 
years  ago,  the  first  covering  probably  having  been 
put  on  over  bark,  for  which  cedar  was  soon  after 
substituted  as  stronger  and  stiff er.  E.  H.  Gerrish 
of  Bangor  is  said  to  be  the  originator  of  the  type. 
Among  the  most  reputable  makers  at  the  present 
day  are  Rushton  of  Canton,  N.  Y.  (beautiful  and 
instructive  catalogue) ;  Gerrish  Canoe  Co.  of  Bangor, 
Me.;  Old  Town  Canoe  Co.,  Old  Town,  Me.;  B.  N. 


Canoes  89 

Morris,  Veazie,  Me.;  Carleton  Canoe  Co.,  Old  Town, 
Me.;  J.  R.  Robertson,  Auburndale,  Mass.;  Chestnut 
of  Frederickton,  N.  B.,  and  others. 

The  canvas  canoe  has  a  frame  of  hardwood  (oak, 
ash,  cherry,  elm),  with  white  cedar  ribs  covered  with  a 
sheathing  of  the  same  material.  This  again  is  covered 
with  cotton  duck  treated  with  some  kind  of  filler, 
and  is  then  painted  and  varnished.  The  gunwales  are 
of  spruce  or  cherry,  and  may  be  either  solid  or  "  split," 
i.e.  made  of  two  parallel  strips,  enabling  the  canoe 
to  be  quickly  and  easily  emptied  of  water.  Brass 
"bang-irons"  protect  the  ends,  and  two  cane  seats 
are  provided,  generally  built  in  solidly,  one  at  the 
extreme  stern  and  the  other  a  little  farther  from  the 
bow. 

The  ideal  cruising  canoe  will  accommodate  two 
men  and  a  reasonable  amount  of  duffle,  say  300  to 
400  pounds.  One  16  feet  long  and  weigh- 
ing 65  to  75  pounds  will  do  this  with 
ease  and  safety.  I  have  even  used  a  1 5-foot  canoe  on 
long  tours  and  found  it  capacious  enough,  while  its 
lightness  (56  pounds)  was  a  boon  on  portages.  For 
short  journeys,  when  little  duffle  is  needed,  a  14- 
foot  craft  will  accommodate  two  men,  but  it  is  better 
to  have  a  canoe  that  can  be  used  for  any  kind  of 
trip.  On  very  long  tours,  especially  when  more  than 
two  men  and  an  extra  amount  of  duffle  and  provisions 
must  be  taken,  18-  and  2o-foot  canoes  are  needed. 

The  general  shape  of  the  bow  of  the  average  canvas 
canoe  is  a  compromise  between  the  ultra-high,  curved 
bows  of  some  of  the  Western  Indian  craft  and  the 
quite  flat  bow  of  the  typical  Micmac  canoe,  though 
more  resembling  the  latter.  A  slight  rise  keeps  the 


go  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

waves  from  coming  too  freely  over  the  bow  without 
offering  too  much  freeboard  to  the  wind. 

Canvas  canoes  are  made  in  two,  sometimes  three, 
grades,  according  to  the  quality  of  the  material 
used  and  the  finish.  First-grade  1 5-foot 
canoes  cost  from  $36.00  to  $41 .00 ;  second- 
grade,  $28.00  to  $33.00.  First-grade  i6-foot,  $38.00 
to  $46.00;  second-grade,  $30.00  to  $40.00.  The 
tendency  of  prices  is  to  increase. 

For  longer  canoes  one  may  reckon  $1.50  per  foot 
over  the  1 6-foot  prices,  though  this  varies  slightly. 
The  catalogues  of  the  best  firms  should  be  consulted. 
Prices  are  without  paddles.  From  $.75  to  $1.25  is 
charged  for  crating,  according  to  size. 

Indians  usually  charge  about  one  dollar  per  foot 
for  a  new  canoe,  though  in  some  localities  the  price 
runs  higher.1  See  that  your  craft  is  made  with  a 
good  flat  bottom ;  Indians  are  apt  to  make  them  too 
round.  The  bottom  should  be  of  one  piece ;  otherwise 
it  is  very  vulnerable. 

The  choice  of  a  paddle  is  rather  a  personal  matter, 
as  people  differ  widely  in  their  likes.  The  stern 

paddle  of  a  pair  should  be  about  6  inches 
Paddles 

longer  than  that  used  in  the  bow.,     For 

stern  paddle  a  tall  person  might  prefer  a  length  of 
5  feet  9  inches,  or  even  6  feet;  5  feet  6  inches  to  5 
feet  9  inches  is  about  normal,  with  the  bow  paddle 
shorter.  Ladies  and  younger  persons  require  shorter 

1  Mr.  White  says  that  a  new  bark  canoe,  with  bottom  of 
one  piece,  should  cost  from  $6.00  to  $8.00!  Those  prices 
must  obtain  very  far  in  the  West.  In  the  East  we  know 
them  not. 


Canoes  91 

paddles.  Woodsmen  have  been  accustomed  to  using 
paddles  rather  shorter  than  these,  perhaps  because 
they  generally  make  them  of  heavy  woods,  ash  or  even 
oak,  but  they  are  now  taking  to  the  longer  lengths, 
just  as  they  are  to  the  canvas  canoe.  The  accepted 
rule  is  that  the  paddle  should  be  as  long  as  the 
paddler  is  tall.  Paddlers  who  habitually  kneel  need 
shorter  paddles  than  others. 

As  to  material,  maple  (or  cherry)  may  be  recom- 
mended to  strong-armed  persons;  spruce  to  all  others. 
The  latter  is  not,  as  some  think,  a  flimsy  wood.  I 
have  personally  used  spruce  paddles  on  long  and 
rough  trips,  and  have  never  known  a  good,  selected 
one  to  break  with  ordinary  wear,  although,  like  any 
other,  spruce  will  snap  soon  enough  if  you  attempt 
to  check  a  canoe  among  rapids  by  sticking  the  paddle 
between  two  rocks.  In  selecting  a  paddle  get  one 
that  is  not  too  slender  just  where  the  blade  joins 
the  handle,  the  weak  spot. 

As  to  the  shape,  some  like  a  narrow  and  some  a 
broad  blade.  A  happy  medium  is  the  best.  Narrow 
blades  bring  the  balance  in  the  proper  place  without 
adding  weight. 

Paddles  are  apt  to  "fur"  off  at  the  edge  with  rough 
usage;  trim  the  "fur"  off  neatly.  If  spruce,  keep 
the  paddle  well  shellacked,  to  prevent  water-soaking. 
Copper  tips  save  the  blades  on  hard  trips,  but  are 
for  ever  coming  off. 

A  hardwood  keel  is  essential  for  every  canoe  going 
into  rough  water.     Unless  specially  ordered  makers 
do  not  furnish  it.      It  should  be  about  one 
half   inch   thick    and    2\    inches   wide   at 
the  centre,  according  to  the  size  of  the  canoe,  and 


92  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

tapering  toward  each  end,  where  it  is  screwed  under 
the  brass  bang-strips.  The  other  screws,  perhaps 
8  inches  or  a  foot  apart,  are  put  in  from  the  inside, 
set  in  white  lead.  Ash  is  a  good  wood.  Such  a  keel, 
while  it  increases  the  weight  by  2  to  4  pounds, 
strengthens  the  canoe  greatly,  and  takes  a  large 
proportion  of  the  hard  knocks  and  scrapes  that 
would  otherwise  fall  upon  the  unprotected  bottom. 
Give  it  a  couple  of  coats  of  paint  when  finished. 

Some  makers  furnish  their  canoes  inside  with  3  or  5 
light  parallel  strips  running  the  whole  length  of.  the 
bottom,  to  protect  it  from  being  scratched  by  sharp 
tools,  hobnailed  shoes,  etc. 

Canoe  chairs,  cushions,  etc,  are  more  popular  when 

giving   your    "best    girl"    a    canoe-ride    than    for 

use  in  the  wilderness.      A  light  wooden 

ngs  back-rest  may  be  taken,  but  it  should  be 

solid  so  as  to  be  used  as  a  card-table  in  camp.     One 

useful    article    which    I    strongly    recommend    is    a 

good-sized  carriage-sponge,  the  best  kind  of  a  bailer 

and  cleaner. 

Guides  commonly  scorn  anything  in  the  line  of 
carriers,  except  in  the  Adirondacks,  where  boats  are 
Canoe-Car-  used.  For  amateurs  a  good  carrier  is  not 
riers  to  be  despised.  The  best  is  that  used  in 

the  Adirondacks,  the  "neck-yoke,"  worked  out  by 
hand  from  a  solid  block  of  white  wood,  fitting  the 
shoulders  and  having  arms  the  ends  of  which  fit 
into  grooves  in  the  sides  of  the  canoe.  These  grooves 
are  generally  made  by  screwing  pieces  of  wood, 
specially  cut,  under  the  gunwales.  The  excellent 
fit  of  this  yoke  makes  it  possible  to  ease  either 


Canoes 


93 


shoulders  or  neck  by  a  proper  adjustment  of  the 
muscles.  The  "neck-yoke"  may  be  had  of  J.  H. 
Rushton,  Canton,  N.  Y. 


FIG.  1 8.— Neck- Yoke  Carrier 

Many  other  kinds  of  carriers  are  on  the  market, 
most  of  them  furnished  with  cushions  that  rest  on  the 
shoulders,  but  all  that  I  know  are  inferior  to  the 
yoke. 

The  pneumatic  canoe-carrier,  fitting  round  the  neck, 
has  been  much  praised.    It  should  have  straps  which 
are    secured    to    the    paddles 
(lying    tied    longitudinally    to 
the  thwarts)  and  a  third  strap 
to  go  over  the  centre  thwart, 
to  prevent  slipping  back. 

The  Micmac  method  of  carry- 
ing a  canoe  may  be  seen  in  the 

accompanying  illustrations.  The  paddle-blades  rest 
on  the  shoulders,  a  sweater  or  something  soft 
being  placed  between.  The  paddle-blades  are  under 
the  centre  thwart  (when  canoe  is  reversed)  and 
the  ends  over  the  next  thwart  behind. 


FIG.  19. — Pneumatic 
Canoe-Yoke 


Upon  disembarking  at  a  camp-ground  canoes 
should  be  placed  on  the  bank  upside  down.  Birch- 
barks  should  not  be  exposed  to  the  sun,  Care  of 
as  the  resin  will  melt,  weakening  the  Canoes 
seams.  They  may  be  left  in  the  water  if  they  ride 
easily  and  securely  without  chafing  or  bumping, 


94 


The  Way  of  the  Woods 


but  should  be  hauled  out  at  night,  or  a  rise  in 
the  stream  or  a  storm  may  render  you  canoeless 
before  morning,  or  at  least  with  a  badly  chafed 

craft.    Never  leave 

a  canoe  in  such  a 

position    that   any 

strain  on  its  middle 

is  brought  to  bear, 

for  example  rest- 
ing on  the  ends 

with  no  support  in 

the  middle.    Never 

drag  a  canoe,  even 

over    the    smooth 

boards  of  a  float, 

but  lift  it  clear  of 

the  ground .    When 

badly  scratched  up 

give    it    a    couple 

Of    COatS    Of    paint.  FIG.  2T-Carry- 

A  very  good  paint    ing;  Micmac 
is  the  "  Canoe  En-          Style 
amel"     made     by 

Edw.  Smith  &  Co.  for  Mr.  Rushton,  costing  $1.00 

per  can,  enough  for  a  coat;   it  comes  in  many  tints. 

The   "  Standard  Canoe  Colours "   (J.  W.   Masury  & 

Son)  are  also  good. 

When  a  birch-bark  leaks  (its  normal  condition) 
it  is  first  taken  out  and  thoroughly  dried.  If  pos- 
Repairs,  sible  this  is  done  in  the  shade,  but,  since 
Birch-  repairs  are  generally  necessary  at  once 
barks  during  a  cruise,  it  is  usually  done  in  the 

sun,    care    being    taken    not    to    overdo    the  thing. 


FIG.  20. — Position  of 
Paddles  for  Carrying 


Canoes  95 

If  a  leak  must  be  stopped  immediately  while  under 
way,  recourse  must  be  had  to  torches  of  birch-bark, 
which  are  held  close  to  the  wound  until  the  lips  are 
sufficiently  dry  for  the  resin  to  stick.  Care  must  of 
course  be  taken  not  to  burn  the  bark.  Meanwhile  the 
resin-  or  pitch-kettle  (which  must  always  accompany 
a  bark  canoe)  has  been  heating  over  a  fire,  and  a 
small  quantity  of  the  melted  stuff  is  poured  over  the 
cut  and  rubbed  in  with  a  rag  on  the  end  of  a  stick, 
after  which  a  piece  of  cotton  cloth,  cut  to  the 
proper  size  and  shape,  is  dipped  in  the  resin,  laid  over 
the  leak,  and  there  plastered  down  with  the  swab.  In 
case  of  very  bad  wounds  it  may  be  necessary  to  sew 
up  the  rent  with  split  white-spruce  roots,  after  which 
the  seams  are  pitched  and  coated  with  cotton  as 
before. 

When  trips  of  any  length  with  canvas  canoes  are 
planned  it  is  well  to  take  along  a  one-pound  can  of 
white  lead,  a  small  can  of  yellow  shellac,  Canvas 
and  a  piece  of  thin  stuff,  oiled  silk  for  Canoes 
preference.  If  the  paint  gets  scratched  or  knocked 
off  so  that  the  canvas  shows,  cover  the  place  neatly 
with  white  lead,  wait  until  it  hardens,  and  then 
paint  with  the  shellac.  Do  this  whenever  the 
canvas  is  exposed,  as  water  may  soak  through  and 
cause  a  leak,  or  at  least  increase  the  weight  of  the 
canoe.  For  a  very  small  wound  shellac  alone  is 
sufficient.  When  the  canvas  is  actually  perforated 
the  place  should  be  dried,  any  loose  threads  clipped 
off  clean,  and  a  small  quantity  of  white  lead  rubbed 
into  the  cut  so  that  it  will  spread  over  the  cedar 
planking  inside  for  a  quarter  of  an  inch  all  round, 
i.e.  inside  the  canvas  but  outside  the  planking.  A 


96  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

piece  of  silk  or  cotton,  cut  to  fit  the  hole  but  a  little 
larger,  is  then  rubbed  with  white  lead  on  both  sides 
and  worked  neatly  into  the  hole  with  the  penknife, 
the  lips  of  the  cut  then  pressed  down  upon  the  silk, 
a  little  more  white  lead  rubbed  on,  and,  after  hard- 
ening, the  wound  painted  with  shellac.  In  the  case 
of  minor  cuts,  especially  when  the  planking  has  not 
been  injured,  the  above  will  suffice,  but  if  the  hole  is 
a  big  one  the  lips  may  have  to  be  further  closed  with 
small  tacks  (copper  best) ,  which  are  driven  through  the 
planking  and  there  clinched.  In  such  a  case  it  may 
be  necessary  to  cover  the  whole  wound  with  an 
additional  piece  of  silk,  as  in  the  case  of  a  bark  canoe. 
This  does  not  improve  the  appearance  of  our  craft, 
but  we  are  in  the  forest  and  not  figuring  in  a  canoe 
parade  in  a  suburban  park.  If  the  planking  has  been 
perforated  or  badly  cracked  a  piece  of  hard  wood 
may  be  whittled  to  shape  and  fixed  over  the  wound 
on  the  inside  of  the  canoe  with  tacks,  or,  better  still, 
small  screws,  the  ends  of  which,  if  they  protrude, 
must  be  filed  off.  If  a  canoe  gets  badly  torn  up  it 
should  be  repaired  as  well  as  may  be  on  the  spot,  and 
then  shipped  to  the  maker,  or  to  some  experienced 
workman,  for  repairs,  unless  the  owner  think  him- 
self competent  to  undertake  such  a  job,  which  is  a 
very  difficult  one  for  an  amateur  to  do  well.  A  bad 
smash  can  be  mended  with  birch-bark,  quite  as  well 
as  if  the  canoe  were  a  bark. 

A  small  roll  of  bicycle-tape  will  be  found  excellent 
for  quick  repairs. 

In  default  of  any  other  material  spruce  gum, 
chewed  soft,  will  stop  a  hole  of  small  size. 

Before  entering  a  canoe  bring  it  broadside  to  the 


Canoes  97 

landing-place,  and,  carefully  preserving  your  body 
balance,  place  one  foot  exactly  in  the 
middle  of  the  craft.  When  you  perceive 
that  all  is  serene  place  the  other  foot  beside  it  and 
sit  or  kneel  down  quickly  but  steadily.  If  you  do 
not  paddle  there  will  probably  be  some  one  to  hold 
the  canoe  while  you  get  in.  If  you  have  a  paddle, 
thrust  it  down  to  the  bottom  on  the  other  side  of  the 
canoe  and  use  it  to  steady  yourself;  the  paddle  will 
prevent  the  canoe  sidling  off  and  causing  a  possible 
straddle  on  your  part  that  might  easily  end  in  an 
ignominious  ducking.  When  in  a  canoe  learn  to 
make  all  necessary  movements  without  interfering 
with  the  balance.  The  slightest  lurch  to  one  side 
must  be  avoided;  look  backward  as  seldom  as  pos- 
sible and  be  careful  how  you  do  it.  Two  men  should 
never  change  places  without  landing.  Canoes  are, 
for  their  build,  wonderfully  steady  and  long-suffering, 
but  no  man  can  tell  just  when  the  limit  of  their 
patience  will  be  reached.  When  it  is,  over  they  go 
in  a  flash.  Then  hang  on  to  your  paddle.  If  you 
cruise  about  lakes  and  cannot  swim,  it  is  safer  to  have 
an  inflated  rubber  cushion,  provided  with  a  life-line, 
with  you ;  it  will  easily  hold  up  two  men  if  they  keep 
cool.  The  late  H.  P.  Wells,  the  great  angling  author- 
ity and  charming  writer,  animadverts  amusingly 
on  the  feminine  character  of  the  birch-bark  canoe, 
and  his  remarks  may  apply  as  well  to  the  canvas: 

With  a  boat,  too,  you  can,  ordinarily  at  least,  find  a  dry 
spot  on  its  bottom — perhaps  even  right  it  and  climb  in. 
But  a  birch,  when  it  has  once  spilled  its  cargo,  passes  from  the 
placid  demureness  of  a  cat  into  the  f riskiness  of  a  kitten. 
Touch  it,  and  it  squirms  and  sidles  off  like  a  country-girl 
at  a  merry-making  when  some  gallant  tries  to  put  his  arm 

7 


98  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

around  her  waist.  It  does  not  squeal,  it  is  true;  but  it  acts 
just  as  skittishly:  as  if  it  did.  Of  all  the  floating  constructions 
of  man,  to  none  is  the  application  of  the  feminine  pronoun 
more  appropriate.  (The  American  Salmon-Fisherman.) 

Of  course  if  a  man  can  swim  he  does  not  mind  a 
ducking,  and  he  can,  if  clever  enough,  climb  into 
his  craft  again  over  the  end;  but  when  on  a  trip, 
loaded  with  provisions  and  duffle,  it  is  a  very  serious 
matter  to  capsize,  for  at  very  least  his  food  and  bedding 
will  get  drenched,  and  it  is  not  at  all  impossible  that 
enough  heavy  stuff  will  remain  in  the  canoe  to  send 
her  to  the  bottom.  Therefore,  in  capsizing  at  a  long 
distance  from  land,  endeavour,  if  you  have  any  doubts 
about  reaching  shore,  to  give  the  canoe  a  smart  tip 
or  drag  her  over  with  you,  as  many  canoes  will 
float  if  not  loaded,  offering  a  refuge  to  which  to  cling. 
All  of  which,  to  be  sure,  is  much  more  easily  said 
than  done,  for  which  reason  it  is  better  to  wait  for 
the  fall  of  the  wind  if  a  lake  seems  to  be  rough.  In 
running  dangerous  rapids  it  may  prove  a  saving  in 
more  ways  than  one  to  unload  and  "tote"  the 
canoe's  contents  round  the  more  difficult  places. 

In  birch-barks,  which  have  no  seats,  the  stern 
paddler  usually  perches  on  the  small  triangle  formed 
P  ddl'  °^  ^e  stern-end  and  the  rear  thwart,  or 

kneels  with  his  buttocks  supported  by 
the  rear  thwart.  The  bow  paddler  in  like  manner 
either  sits  upon  or  kneels  supported  by  the  second 
thwart  from  the  bow.  In  canvas  canoes  a  seat  is 
provided  for  each  paddler.  Either  may,  however, 
kneel  down  for  diversity  of  position,  or  when  a  high 
wind  blows  against  the  canoe,  as  then  the  kneeling 
position  reduces  the  resistance  to  the  wind  and 


Canoes 


99 


brings  the  weight  in  the  canoe  lower,  making  her 
stiffen  The  kneeling  paddler  has  his  craft  in  better 
control. 

In  paddling  one  hand  grips  the  end  of  the  paddle, 
while  the  other  holds  it  a  short  distance  above  the 
blade.  With  the  body  kept  nearly  motionless,  though 
not  stiff  nor  contracted,  the  paddle  is  dipped  or  slid 
into  the  water  a  little  in  front  (not  too  much)  of  the 
paddler  and  swept  through  and  downward  to  the 
rear.  At  the  end  of  the  stroke  the  paddle  is  turned 
so  that  it  is  edge-on  to  the  bow  and  withdrawn 
in  that  position  for  the  next  stroke,  just  clearing  the 
water  as  it  moves  forward.  It  should  not  be  plunged 


FIG.  22. — Position  of  Hands  at  End  of   Stroke 


into  the  water  nor  jerked  out ;  the  movement  should 
be  smooth  from  start  to  finish.  Just  where  the  accent 
of  the  stroke  comes  can  be  learned  only  by  experience. 
The  turning  of  the  paddle  is  usually  made  by  .the 
upper  hand,  the  thumb  being  thrust  forward  and  the 
paddle  allowed  to  turn  in  the  lower  hand.  During 
the  stroke  the  upper  hand  is  thrust  forward  and 


ioo  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

across  the  face  or  breast,  while  the  lower  pulls  the 
blade  through  the  water.  The  failure  to  execute  the 
piston-like  thrust  of  the  upper  hand  is  the  besetting 
sin  of  beginners. 

The  bow  paddler's  duty  is  simple,  being  merely 
to  keep  up  a  regular  stroke  and  watch  for  hidden 
rocks  and  other  obstructions,  while  that  of  the  stern 
paddler  is  more  difficult  and  complicated,  for  he  it 
is  who  keeps  the  craft  on  a  straight  course  or  steers 
it  in  the  chosen  direction.  When  assisted  by  a  bow 
paddle  his  task  is  easy,  but  when  alone  he  must  cor- 
rect the  tendency  of  the  canoe  to  turn  constantly 
in  one  direction  by  a  lateral  and  upward  push  of  the 
blade  against  the  water,  applied  just  the  moment 
before  it  is  withdrawn  for  the  next  stroke.  The 
knack  of  stern-paddling,  like  waltzing  or  riding  the 
bicycle,  can  be  learned  only  by  experience,  but  it 
is  not  difficult. 

From  the  very  first,  learn  to  paddle  as  well  on  one 
side  of  the  canoe  as  on  the  other  (a  rule  that  should 
be  written  in  large  capitals).  It  is  a  great  rest  to 
change  sides,  and  many  's  the  time  the  slap  on  the 
water  by  one's  mate,  the  signal  for  a  shift -over,  comes 
as  a  welcome  relief  to  the  tired  muscles. 

It  is  in  swift  water  that  the  work  of  the  bow 
paddler  becomes  more  important,  for  here  he  must 
In  "White  keep  his  weather  eye  peeled  and  be  ready 
Water"  to  fend  off  at  the  precise  moment  called 
for,  neither  too  soon  nor  too  late.  In  running  rapids 
most  bow  paddlers  are  inclined  to  do  too  much,  and 
thus,  instead  of  helping  the  steerer,  handicap  his 
efforts.  The  ideal  bow  paddler  holds  himself  on  the 
alert,  ready  to  obey  the  command  of  the  steerer, 


Canoes  101 

but  does  little  until  occasion  demands.  Then  a  deft 
but  energetic  movement  of  the  paddle  averts  the 
impending  danger.  Running  rapids  is  one  of  the 
most  exhilarating,  not  to  say  thrilling,  of  pastimes, 
but  it  is  dangerous  to  a  degree  and  the  wonder  is 
that  so  few  bad  accidents  happen.  Last  year,  as 
bow  paddle,  I  ran  a  nasty  rapid  with  a  first-class 
Indian  canoeman  in  the  stern.  In  the  midst  of  it, 
while  we  were  seething  down  the  white  waters  at  a 
record  pace,  he  had  the  misfortune,  while  trying 
to  throw  the  bow  a  little  to  the  left,  to  get  his  paddle 
caught  between  two  stones  in  such  a  manner  that 
it  was  either  break  or  let  go,  and,  as  it  was  his 
favourite  paddle,  he  chose  the  latter  alternative, 
wisely  or  not.  Just  as  he  sang  out  to  me  above  the 
roar  of  the  rapid,  "Look  out,  I  Ve  lost  my  paddle!  " 
the  very  same  accident  happened  to  me.  My  paddle 
was  whipped  out  of  my  hand  before  I  could  make  up 
my  mind  whether  or  not  to  let  go,  and  the  next  mo- 
ment a  helpless  and  frail  canoe  with  two  men,  pro- 
visions, and  dufHe  went  shooting  down  the  last  half 
of  one  of  the  most  precipitate  and  rocky  rapids 
in  Canada.  I  had  an  indistinct  consciousness  of 
sticking  out  one  foot  over  the  gunwale  and  shooting 
my  heel  with  all  my  might  at  one  particularly  danger- 
ous, jagged  point  as  we  tore  by,  and  the  next  moment 
we  sat  high  and  dry  on  a  flat  rock  at  the  foot  of  the 
rapid.  Talk  of  ice-yachting  and  motoring — they 
are  nothing  to  shooting  rapids  without  paddles!  You 
yell  with  excitement  and  exhilaration,  but  your  hair 
stands  on  end  at  the  same  time.  Of  course  the  inci- 
dent described  was  very  exceptional,  and  we  had 
all  the  luck  in  getting  off  with  only  one  bad  rent  in 
the  bottom  of  our  craft, 


102  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

On  long  trips,  when  many  rapids  must  be  run,  a 
"setting-pole"  is  used.  This  is  a  stout  sapling 

,  about  10  feet  long,  into  one  end  of  which 
Setting-pole 

a  tapering  spike,  made  for  the  purpose, 

is  driven  and  confined  by  an  iron  ring.  This  spike 
should  not  protrude  too  far  (not  over  3  inches),  or 
it  will  cause  the  pole  to  get  caught  between  rocks 
as  our  paddles  did  in  the  above  story.  The  spike 
and  ring  are  taken  as  part  of  the  kit  and  the  pole 
cut  when  needed.  An  iron  shoe  with  nail-holes  is 
quite  unnecessary.  A  setting-pole  is  absolutely 
essential  in  getting  up-stream  when  the  water  is 
heavy  and  swift.  Beginners  are  recommended  not 
to  attempt  its  use  except  under  the  eye  of  an  old 
hand.  There  is  a  knack  in  handling  it,  though  at  first 
it  seems  the  most  unwieldy  implement  imaginable. 

If  caught  out  in  a  lake  in  a  storm  kneel  down  and 
be  especially  careful  to  make  clean  strokes;  catching 
On  a  Rough  a  crab  in  a  canoe  is  apt  to  lead  to  instant 
Lake  disaster,  particularly  in  a  heavy  sea.  Be 

careful  not  to  get  the  canoe  in  the  trough  of  the  waves, 
especially  if  she  is  at  all  top-heavy.  If  the  wind  is  dead 
ahead  or  dead  aft  the  danger  is  lessened.  The  stern 
paddler  must  watch  the  combers  like  a  cat  and  be  ready 
to  turn  the  bow  into  the  big  ones.  At  such  a  time  (and 
theoretically  always  in  a  canoe)  one  paddle  or  the  other 
should  be  in  the  water  constantly.  The  majority 
of  u  sets  occur  when  this  rule  is  neglected  and  some 
sudden  movement  of  one  or  both  men  cannot  be 
offset  by  the  steadying  paddle. 

In  a  gale  keep  as  much  as  possible  under  lee  of 
islands  and  points.  Better  still,  don't  start  out  at  all 
in  such  weather. 


Canoes  1 03 

If  the  trip  is  made  through  country  abounding  in 
lakes  much  hard  paddling  can  be  saved  by  rigging 

some  kind  of  a  sail  in  the  bow.    This  may 

Sailing 
be  simply  a  thick  bush,  or  a  tarpaulin  or 

poncho  or  tent-fly  rigged  on  a  pole  and  paddle. 
A  long  experience  in  the  lake  district  of  southern 
Nova  Scotia  has  taught  me  that  the  most  practical 
sail  is  simply  a  big  and  strong  umbrella  of  the  kind 
used  in  escorting  ladies  from  the  carriage  to  the  house. 
It  fits  into  the  rod-case  and  does  yeoman  service  on 
the  lake.  I  have  saved  scores  of  miles'  paddling  with 
one.  An  old  umbrella  may  be  taken  along  and 
abandoned  when  the  last  big  lake  has  been  crossed. 
Of  course  a  sail  is  of  service  only  when  the  wind  is 
quite  or  nearly  dead  aft.  Centre-boards  are  imprac- 
ticable on  the  rocky  lakes  of  the  north  woods. 

Canoes  are  loaded  with  two  objects  in  view,  proper 
trim  and  the  security  of  the  duffle.  See  that  no  box 
or  bundle  chafes  the  sides,  nor  slides  from 
side  to  side.  Get  the  load,  and  particularly 
the  heavy  stuff,  as  low  in  the  canoe  as  possible,  to 
avoid  top-heaviness.  Have  the  receptacles  contain- 
ing provender  and  cooking  utensils  where  they  can  be 
got  at  easily  at  lunch  time.  Do  not  pack  anything 
that  should  be  kept  dry  on  the  very  bottom  of  the 
canoe,  especially  if  it  rains,  or  on  a  rough  lake  or  in 
bad  rapids.  Be  sure  to  leave  room  for  the  two  pad- 
dlers'  feet  and  legs.  When  loaded  the  canoe  should 
float  on  an  even  keel,  neither  end  being  higher  than 
the  other.  In  rapid  water,  however,  the  bow  should 
be  a  trifle  higher  than  the  stern  when  going  up-stream, 
and  the  stern  a  trifle  higher  when  going  down- 
stream. Perhaps  it  would  be  more  exact  to  say  that 


104  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

the  heavier  end  should  be  always  the  down-stream 
end,  whichever  direction  the  canoe  is  going.  This 
makes  steering  easier. 

Whether  the  duffle  should  be  firmly  attached  to  the 
canoe  is  a  question  that  may  be  answered  with  yes 
if  the  canoe  will  float  when  upset.  If  not,  then  it 
makes  little  difference  in  deep  water,  except  that 
some  of  the  duffle  might  float  if  not  tied  on.  In 
swift,  shallow  water  it  is  well  to  secure  the  important 
articles,  especially  the  heavy  ones,  such  as  the  rifle, 
camera,  etc.,  as  an  upset  might  result  in  the  loss 
of  material  absolutely  essential  to  comfort  if  not 
life.  Such  experiences  as  that  of  Dillon  Wallace  in 
Labrador  should  be  taken  to  heart.  (The  Long 
Labrador  Trail.) 

On  long  trips  a  stout  tracking-line,  about  a  dozen 
or  more  feet  long,  should  be  attached  to  the  bow. 

It  will  be  found  very  useful  in  getting  up 
Tracking  -       ,  ,  .  ,  * 

and     down    dangerous     rapids,     and    in 

anchoring  for  fishing  purposes. 

(The  above  chapter  on  canoeing  has  been  read  and  very 
kindly  approved  by  Mr.  J.  H.  Rushton,  who  disagrees  with 
me  on  one  point  only,  the  toughness  of  the  all- wood  canoe. 
Mr.  Rushton,  certainly  an  excellent  authority,  has  made  the 
"Nessmuk"  and  other  wooden  canoes  for  many  years,  and 
has  a  high  opinion  of  their  strength  and  general  usefulness, 
even  in  swift  waters,  an  opinion  which  I  do  not  share,  so  far 
as  the  waters  of  the  north  woods,  with  which  I  am  most 
familiar,  are  concerned.) 


CHAPTER  VII 

PROVISIONS 

ABOUT  no  subject  connected  with  camping-out  is 
there  so  much  opportunity  for  honest  difference  of 
opinion  as  this,  since  the  personal  equation  neces- 
sarily enters  into  it  to  a  large  degree. 

Provisions  may  be  divided  into  two  categories: 
staples  and  legitimate  luxuries.  By  the  latter  term 
are  meant  articles  of  food  and  drink  which  may,  at 
one  time  or  another,  be  admitted  to  the  camping 
larder  without  laying  the  consumer  open  to  the  charge 
of  being  an  abject  slave  to  his  belly. 

It  is  likely  that  a  conclave  of  experienced  amateur 
woodsmen  would  name  the  following  commodities 
among  the  staples: 

The  Staples 

Flour  or  Bread  Salt 

Corn-meal  Pepper 

Baking-powder  Sugar 

Pork  Milk 

Bacon  Butter 

Lard  Candles 

Tea  Matches 

Coffee  Soap 

Of  luxuries  there  is  a  wider  choice  : 

105 


io6  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

The  Luxuries 

Rye-meal  Sausage 

Oatmeal  Tobacco 

Buckwheat  Liquors 

Rice  Eggs 

Beans  Vegetables,  fresh  and  dried. 

Split  peas  Pemmican 

Chocolate  Canned  meats 

Cocoa  Condiments 

Lemons  Molasses 

Ham  Syrup 

Cured  fish  Citric  Acid 

Erbswurst  Marmalade 

Soup-Tablets  Preserves 

Additional  Luxuries 

Other  canned  goods  Sweet  oil 

Other  condiments  Wines 

Lime  drops 

The  proportion  of  staples  to  luxuries  must  depend 
upon  the  character  of  the  proposed  expedition.  If 
it  is  a  hard  one,  where  going  light  is  the  chief 
essential,  every  luxury  will  be  severely  scrutinised 
before  admission  to  the  pack,  and  even  some  of 
the  staples  are  likely  to  be  omitted:  for  instance, 
from  the  above  list,  either  the  coffee  or  the  tea, 
bacon,  corn-meal,  and  possibly  milk  and  butter. 
On  easier  trips  it  is  all  a  matter  of  transportation, 
of  personal  taste,  and  the  amount  of  physical  ex- 
ertion the  members  of  the  party  intend  to  undergo ; 
for  hard  work  tends  to  increase  the  amount  consumed, 
while  making  the  camper  less  fastidious;  in  other 
words,  he  will  be  more  contented  with  plain  fare. 
In  a  country  where  game  and  fish  can  be  counted 
on  to  enrich  the  menu  luxuries  are  not  so  much 


Provisions  107 

missed;  while  on  the  other  hand  there  are  luxuries 
which,  for  many  people,  are  almost  necessities,  a 
certain  quantity  of  which  they  will  prefer  to  take 
with  them  in  place  of  an  equal  amount  of  some  recog- 
nised staple.  In  my  own  case,  for  example,  rice,  beans, 
dried  apples  or  apricots,  and  eating  chocolate  invaria- 
bly form  part  of  the  provender,  and  rather  than  leave 
these  behind  I  will  sacrifice  bacon  and  meal.  This  is 
entirely  a  personal  question  and  should  be  Choice  of 
threshed  out  by  the  members  of  the  ex-  Provisions 
pedition.  The  best  way  is  for  each  camper  to  pur- 
chase out  of  his  own  pocket  and  bring  along  any 
special  luxury  that  is  not  sure  of  an  enthusiastic 
reception  by  the  others;  and  then  discussion  at  the 
point  of  departure  will  determine  whether  the  size  of 
the  baggage  will  allow  of  its  being  admitted,  either 
wholly  or  in  part.  The  task  of  collecting  the  necessary 
provisions  is  best  left  to  one  man,  the  most  ex- 
perienced camper. 

Flour  should  be  taken  in  a  stout  bag.  If  you  are 
acquainted  with  a  really  satisfactory  self-  Remarks 
raising  flour,  take  it;  otherwise  baking-  on  Staples 
powder  (in  the  original  tin  boxes)  must  be  taken. 

Bread.  Fresh-baked  loaves  are  often  preferred 
to  flour,  being  ready  to  eat,  and  thus  saving  time. 
They  are  bulky  and  thus  not  adapted  to  hard  trips. 
One  usually  takes  along  a  few,  to  last  for  a  couple 
of  days. 

Cornmeal  (Indian-meal),  the  original  American 
flour,  is  a  favourite  with  woodsmen;  in  fact  many 
prefer  it  to  white  flour  in  case  only  one  is  taken.  It 
has  the  advantage  of  being  more  easily  cooked,  as 
Johnny-cake  can  be  made  in  the  frying-pan,  and 


io8  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

cakes  baked  on  stones.  It  is  delicious  as  mush  and 
still  more  so  when  fried  cold  and  eaten  with  syrup 
or  molasses.  It  is  also  the  proper  thing  to  roll  fish  in 
before  frying,  and  may  be  mixed  with  the  white  flour 
for  bread. 

Pork  of  good  quality  can  almost  always  be  found 
in  the  country,  but  this  is  less  often  true  of 

Bacon,  on  which  account  it  may  be  as  well  to  pur- 
chase your  supply  in  the  city.  Except  on  very 
easy  trips  bacon  should  not  be  taken  in  tins,  and 
never  in  glass.  Take  it  in  the  flitch. 

Butter,  in  quantities  of  five  to  fifteen  pounds,  is  best 
taken  in  tin  pails  or  wooden  buckets,  with  tight- 
fitting  covers  that  will  not  come  off  when  sunk  in  the 
stream,  where  they  should  be  kept  as  much  as  pos- 
sible in  warm  weather.  For  the  woods  butter  should 
be  more  or  less  salted. 

Lard  is  best  carried  in  a  small  wooden  bucket  on  a 
long  trip,  though  if  overland  it  may  be  kept  in  two 
thicknesses  of  strong  brown  paper  and  secluded  from 
too  much  heat.  Not  much  need  be  taken  as  it  is 
used  almost  exclusively  for  bread-making. 

Tea  is  the  staple  beverage  of  the  wilderness,  and 
if  there  is  any  question  of  taking  but  one,  choose  tea, 
for  it  is  more  quickly  and  easily  made,  does  not  de- 
teriorate like  ground  coffee,  and,  finally,  the  guides, 
almost  without  exception,  like  it  best.  In  most  cases 
both  tea  and  coffee  can  be  carried.  Keep  in  a  separate 
bag. 

Coffee  should  be  ground  as  short  a  time  as  pos- 
sible before  starting  out,  and  is  kept  in  a  separate 
bag  or  wooden  pail,  the  bag  fitting  better  in  the 
basket.  On  long  trips  carry  in  tins. 

The  quality  of  both  tea  and  coffee  should  be  high, 


Provisions  109 

as  it  takes  more  to  make  a  pot  in  the  woods  than 
indoors.  Most  people  prefer  black  tea,  but  tastes 
strangely  differ.  So  well-known  a  woodsman  as  old 
Nessmuk  preferred  green  tea  and  boiled  it  for  five 
minutes ! 

Cream  and  Milk.  The  best  substitute  for  these 
is  Borden's  "Peerless  Evaporated  Milk,"  an  un- 
sweetened liquid  quite  devoid  of  the  disagreeable 
taste  associated  with  condensed  milk.  It  comes  in 
$.10  cans,  one  of  which  will  be  sufficient  -for  four 
persons  for  two  days  if  used  moderately.  Half-sized 
cans  can  also  be  had,  convenient  for  short  side  trips. 
It  is  used  by  making  two  small  holes  in  the  top, 
which  can  be  plugged  or  stopped  by  the  thickening 
of  the  liquid  if  the  can  is  held  for  a  moment  or  two 
upside  down  with  the  thumbs  over  the  holes.  "  Peer- 
less" milk  will  keep  for  any  length  of  time  and  can 
be  used  very  economically.  There  is  also  an  "  Eagle" 
brand  of  condensed  milk  which  is  sweetened,  and 
therefore  less  appetising  to  many  people.  The  un- 
sweetened milk  has  practically  all  the  qualities 
of  cream.  "Truecream"  and  "Truemilk"  (Aber- 
crombie  &  Fitch)  come  in  soluble  powder  form,  and 
are  therefore  easy  to  transport.  One  uses  four  table- 
spoonfuls  to  a  pint  of  water.  It  is  rather  expensive, 
costing  $3.00  for  a  five-pound  can.  The  "  St.  Charles" 
brand  of  evaporated  milk  (unsweetened)  is  similiar  to 
the  "Peerless,"  but  inferior.  ($.10  per  can). 

All  these  substitutes  for  milk  must  be  taken  from 
home,  as  they  are  not  to  be  had  in  frontier  towns. 

Malted  milk  makes  an  excellent  forest  drink. 
Borden's  is  the  most  suitable,  being  most  soluble. 
If  taken  it  is  better  to  transfer  it  from  the  bottle  to 
a  tin  box  well  lined  with  clean  paper. 


no  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Sugar.  This  is  carried  in  its  own  bag.  The  prin- 
cipal substitutes  for  sugar  are  saccharine  and  crys- 
talose.  Crystalose  comes  in  one-ounce  vials,  the 
contents  being  claimed  to  equal  in  sweetening  power 
a  ton  of  sugar.  On  very  light-going  trips  these  drugs 
have  their  place,  but  their  taste  is  disliked  by  many. 

Salt.  This  should  be  taken  from  home,  as  that 
obtainable  in  out-of-the-way  places  is  of  poor  quality 
and  has  an  annoying  tendency  to  cake  in  moist 
climates. 

Pepper.  This  may  be  either  white  or  black.  Per- 
sonally I  use  only  Hungarian  paprika  (accent  on 
the  first  syllable),  which  is  tasty,  wholesome,  and 
promotes  digestion.  It  must  not  be  confounded 
with  the  hot  cayenne,  being  very  much  milder. 

Soap.  Sapolio  is  the  first  and  last  choice  for  camp 
soap. 

Candles.  A  supply  of  ordinary  paraffine  candles 
is  usually  taken  to  be  used  in  rustic  candlesticks 
(see  Rustic  Utensils).  If  a  folding  " Stonebridge " 
lantern  is  carried  special  pressed  candles  had  best  be 
brought  for  it  (see  Lantern). 

Matches.  Only  the  good  old  friction  match,  the 
lucifer  or  " hell-stick"  of  our  youth,  will  be  found  on 
the  outskirts  of  the  wilderness,  and  a  good  supply 
of  these  should  be  taken  along  in  a  tin  can  with  a 
tight- fitting  top,  if  possible  a  screw-top.  There  is 
a  very  good  waterproof  tubular  match-safe  on  the 
market  in  the  shape  of  two  brass  telescopic  cylinders 
which  fit  together  and  hold  about  500  wooden  matches. 
It  weighs  about  half  a  pound  and  costs  $.75.  For 
pocket  match-boxes  see  under  Personal  Outfit. 

Most  tours  in  the  wilderness  are  undertaken  by 


Provisions  in 

means  of  some  kind  of  land  or  water  conveyance, 
and  therefore  the  above  strictly  light- Remarks  on 
going  list  may  be  amplified  by  the  addi-  Luxuries 
tion  of  many  commodities  which  may  to  all  intents 
and  purposes  be  considered  as  staples. 

Rye-meal  may  be  taken  as  a  variety.  The  same 
may  be  said  of  oatmeal,  or  crushed  oats,  though  it  is 
now  conceded  that  cereals  are'  by  no  means  so  nu- 
tritive as  once  believed. 

Buckwheat- flour,  only  of  the  self-raising  variety, 
makes  the  best  of  flapjacks,  and,  eaten  with  syrup 
or  molasses,  satisfies  the  marked  craving  for  sweets 
which  nearly  all  campers  have. 

Rice  is  now  recognised  as  an  extremely  nutritive 
food,  and  may  be  used  in  the  woods  either  as  a 
vegetable  or  (when  left  over  cold)  mixed  with 
flapjack  batter. 

Beans  are  another  luxury  that  may  almost  be 
called  a  staple,  while  in  a  permanent  camp  they  are  a 
prime  necessity.  A  good  quality  of  the  white  bean 
apotheosised  in  Massachusetts  should  be  chosen. 
Army  men  and  lumbermen  fully  appreciate  the 
value  of  the  bean;  in  fact  the  classic  dish,  pork  and 
beans,  may  be  considered  the  most  popular  of  the 
regular  woods  bill  of  fare,  the  beans  forming,  of 
course,  the  more  important  part  of  the  dish.  For 
"staying  by"  a  man  pork  and  beans  have  few  equals 
and  perhaps  no  superiors.  In  permanent  camps 
beans  are  always  cooked  on  the  spot,  but  when  trans- 
portation is  fairly  easy  and  time  must  be  saved  canned 
baked  beans  are  very  convenient.  I  have  found 
a  Canadian  brand,  without  ketchup,  the  most  tooth- 
some. A  supply  of 

Split  Peas,  to  thicken   soups  and   to   be   used   as 


1 1 2  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

a  vegetable,  is  recommended,  for  they  are  very 
nutritious. 

Erbswurst  (peameal-sausage),  a  concentrated  pea- 
meal  with  bacon,  used  for  making  soup,  is  much  in 
vogue  just  now  in  this  country.  Although  good  and 
nutritious  it  is  very  expensive,  taking  its  bulk  into 
consideration,  and,  except  its  convenient  form,  has 
few  advantages  over  split  peas.  (Price  $.17  the 
half-pound  roll.) 

Chocolate  is  now  regarded  as  a  very  high-class 
food  on  account  of  its  nutritive  qualities.  It  is 
expensive  and  should  not  be  a  part  of  the  daily 
ration,  but  kept  for  emergency  uses.  A  half  cake 
will  keep  a  man's  strength  up  for  a  day  without  any 
other  food.  I  never  strike  off  from  camp  by  myself 
without  a  piece  of  chocolate  in  my  pocket.  Do 
not,  however,  have  anything  to  do  with  the  mawkishly 
sweet  chocolates  of  the  candy-shops  or  the  imported 
milk  chocolates,  which  are  not  suited  for  the  purpose. 
We  have  something  far  better  here  in  America  in 
Walter  Baker  &  Co.'s  "Dot"  brand,  which  is  slightly 
sweetened.  It  comes  in  half-pound  cakes.  It  is 
not  so  popular  commercially  as  the  sweeter  kinds 
and  cannot  therefore  always  be  found  at  your 
grocer's,  but  can  be  obtained  from  the  firm. 

Cocoa  is  an  out-and-out  luxury,  but  may  be  included 
on  a  canoe  trip  to  vary  the  bill  of  fare,  or  in  case 
some  member  of  the  party  drinks  no  stimulants  at 
night.  I  like  Baker's  better  than  any  foreign  brand, 
and  am  assured  by  scientific  friends  that  it  is  pure. 

Lemons  come  very  near  to  being  a  staple,  especially 
in  summer,  when  they  are  delicious  and  wholesome. 
On  a  long,  hard  tramp,  when  thirst  tortures,  a  suck 
at  a  lemon  kept  in  the  pocket  will  help  more  than  a 


Provisions  113 

pint  of  water,  which  would  fill  up  the  stomach  and 
badly  handicap  the  tramper. 

Limes  are  as  good  as  lemons  or  better,  since,  bulk 
for  bulk,  they  go  farther. 

Cheese  varies  the  menu  and  makes  fine  sandwiches, 
but  is  not  an  important  item. 

Ham  is  excellent  in  a  permanent  camp  or  on  a 
very  easy  trip. 

Smoked  and  Salted  Fish  includes  herring,  smoked 
and  canned  salmon,  sprats  and  sardines,  and  shredded 
codfish.  All  are  good,  though  the  canned  stuff  is 
admissible  only  to  easy  trips.  The  smoked  sprats 
are  particularly  good.  Shredded  codfish  is  light  and 
makes  excellent  fishballs. 

Soup  Tablets,  Capsules  r  etc.,  would  be  included  in  the 
staples  by  many  on  account  of  their  convenient 
form.  There  are  many  varieties,  among  them 
Armour's,  Knorr's,  Anker's,  Maggi's,  and  Raffauf's, 
some  being  for  soups  and  some  for  bouillon.  Dried 
Julienne,  for  soups,  stews,  etc.,  is  toothsome,  though 
really  an  unnecessary  luxury.  All  these  things  should 
be  kept  in  tin  boxes. 

Sausage.  Large  sausages  of  the  Bologna  pattern 
are  excellent,  but  get  the  imported  German  Cervelat- 
wurst  if  you  can,  as  it  is  better  and  more  nutritive 
though  costlier.  Leberwurst  is  too  soft. 

Pemmican,  a  chief  staple  of  Arctic  travellers,  will 
not  be  needed  unless  a  tour  into  very  distant  and 
inhospitable  regions  is  projected.  It  used  to  be 
compounded  of  powdered  buffalo  meat,  fat,  and 
marrow,  but  is  now  made  of  dried  and  powdered  beef 
mixed  with  suet,  with  a  little  sugar  and  a  few  raisins 
for  flavour.  It  may  be  had  of  dealers  at  $2.00  the 
two-pound  can.  I  can  live  without  it  beautifully! 


1 14  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Jerked  Meat,  especially  that  of  moose  or  deer, 
is  far  better.  It  can  hardly  ever  be  bought  in  cities. 
(See  Cookery.} 

Canned  Meats  are  quite  permissible  on  fairly 
easy  trips.  Corned  beef,  tongue,  and  dried  beef 
are  the  favourites.  They  are  all  heavy,  of  course, 
and  as  little  as  possible  should  be  taken,  though  in 
summer,  when  no  fresh  meat  is  obtainable  for  the 
squeamish  in  camp,  canned  meat  offers  a  pleasing 
variety.  The  old  woodsman  varies  his  fare  with  frogs, 
porcupines,  coons,  young  crows  and  owls,  and  other 
woodland  delicacies.  (See  Cookery.) 

Eggs  are  delicious  in  camp,  and  on  easy  trips  a 
box  or  basket  filled  with  fresh  ones  packed  in  meal 
may  be  taken.  Several  varieties  of  dried  eggs  are 
on  the  market,  which  are  said  to  be  fit  for  cooking. 

Vegetables.  Fresh  vegetables,  especially  potatoes 
and  onions,  are  generally  taken.  I  leave  the  potatoes 
behind  whenever  I  can  persuade  my  companions 
to  join  me  in  renunciation,  for  they  are  sickeningly 
heavy  and  therefore  unsuited  to  long,  hard  trips, 
while  on  short  ones  they  are  not  worth  transporting. 
In  permanent  camps  they  are  welcome  and  in  place. 
Evaporated  potatoes  can  now  be  had  that  taste  very 
good.  They  come  sliced  at  $.25  the  package.  They 
do  very  well  for  the  woods,  especially  in  stews. 
Knorr's  dried  onions  are  also  excellent;  they  cost 
$.20  the  package.  The  same  firm  sells  a  variety 
of  other  dried  vegetables. 

Molasses  is  heavy,  but  oh,  so  good  in  the  woods! 
A  stone  jug  is  the  proper  receptacle.  On  hard 
overland  trips  the  retired  whiskey-bottle  is  gen- 
erally used,  but  must  be  carefully  wrapped  up  to 
avoid  breaking.  Better  is  a  tin  can  with  screw-top. 


Provisions  115 

Syrup  is  an  effete  luxury  .compared  with  molasses, 
and  is  scorned  except  on  the  easiest  of  trips,  when 
both  may  be  taken. 

Preserves  of  all  kinds  never  taste  so  good  as  in  the 
woods,  and,  though  pure  luxuries,  are  most  whole- 
some. In  a  permanent  camp  the  more  the  merrier, 
while  a  few  cans  of  marmalade  or  a  small  supply 
of  jams  or  preserves  may  be  taken  on  easy  trips, 
always  in  tins  if  possible. 

Dried  (evaporated)  Fruits  are  much  more  important 
than  preserves,  on  account  of  their  convenient  form 
and  wholesome  nature.  I  regard  them  as  a  staple 
and  never  go  into  the  woods,  even  on  an  overland 
tramp  of  more  than  a  few  days'  duration,  without  a 
supply  of  either  dried  apples,  peaches,  or  apricots,  pre- 
ferably the  first.  In  country  districts  they  are  not 
always  to  be  had,  and  can  be  got  in  a  better  quality 
of  some  good  grocer.  Prunes  are  good  to  have  also 
in  some  quantity,  as  well  as  a  few  seeded  raisins  for 
puddings,  buns,  etc. 

Citric  Acid.  A  small  quantity  of  this  should  be 
taken  for  lemonade  in  case  no  lemons  or  limes  are 
in  the  larder. 

Tobacco  is  to  many  people  both  a  staple  and  a 
luxury,  and  the  great  majority  of  woodsmen  have  the 
profoundest  pity  for  the  non-smoker.  What?  No 
pipe  when  sitting  round  the  camp-fire  as  the  forest 
shades  deepen  into  blackness?  No,  no,  the  thought 
is  really  too  harrowing.  The  best  way  to  take 
tobacco  is  in  the  plug  or  the  larger  "  hand,"  though  on 
easy  trips  it  may  be  carried,  sliced,  in  tins.  A  rubber 
pocket  pouch  contains  the  daily  supply.  Cigars  are 
an  effete  luxury.  If  they  are  taken  they  should  be 
carried  in  a  strong  but  light  box,  which,  as  it  is 


1 16  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

depleted,  is  kept  full  by  adding  moss.  The  cigars 
should  be  rolled  firmly  together  in  foil  to  prevent 
chafing  and  breaking.  Cigarette  fiends  should  reform 
in  the  woods;  it  is  the  opportunity  of  their  lives. 
Of  wind-matches  or  fuzees  I  have  spoken  before. 
Without  them  it  is  a  heart-breaking  and  sometimes 
impossible  task  to  light  a  pipe  in  a  fresh  breeze 
or  a  rainstorm,  just  when  you  are  apt  to  want  it 
most.  They  are  also  most  convenient  for  lighting 
fires  on  wet  days. 

Liquors.  The  question  of  liquor  is  a  delicate  one 
and  essentially  personal.  There  are  many  things 
to  be  said  against  it,  chief  among  which  is  the  fact 
that  it  is  heavy  and  awkward  to  carry.  The  sports- 
man, especially  if  he  is  a  business  man  escaped  from  his 
office,  ought  to  allow  nature  a  fair  chance  to  brace 
him  up  for  the  coming  months  of  toil  and  artificial 
city  life.  Unquestionably  it  is  best  for  such  a  man, 
and  probably  for  all  others,  to  leave  rum  and  whiskey 
at  home.  If  you  are  not  an  habitual  drinker  you 
certainly  do  not  want  it,  while,  if  you  are,  a  period  of 
abstinence  is  the  very  best  thing  for  you.  Trust 
outdoor  life  to  supply  all  the  tonic  you  need.  Never- 
theless, though  the  above  is  a  good  rule  for  every- 
day life  in  the  woods,  it  is  not  wise  to  tarry  there 
totally  without  liquor.  A  small  quantity  of  really 
good  whiskey  or  brandy  may  prove  a  godsend  in  case 
of  accident,  illness,  or  severe  chill.  Liquor  is  like 
dynamite:  properly  handled  it  is  a  boon;  abused  a 
terrible  curse.  Upon  one  thing  you  may  depend :  as 
an  aid  to  endurance  it  is  a  complete  failure,  as  its 
effect  is  always  of  short  duration,  and  is  followed 
by  a  reaction  that  adds  twenty  pounds  to  a  man's 
pack.  For  warming-up  purposes  Jamaica  Ginger 


Provisions  117 

is  quite  as  good.  In  favour  of  liquor  are  two  argu- 
ments. Firstly  nearly  all  guides  like  a  wee  nippy  on 
occasion,  and,  secondly,  there  are  times  when  the 
sportsmen  like  it  just  as  well,  and  it  certainly  does 
add  wonderfully  to  the  festivity  of  certain  occasions, 
like  the  fall  of  the  big  moose  or  the  gaffing  of  the 
twenty- five-pounder. 

Liquor  should  never  be  carried  in  aluminum 
vessels,  as  alcohol  attacks  this  metal. 

Condiments  of  various  kinds  may  be  taken  along, 
as  they  are  light  and  only  small  quantities  are  neces- 
sary. The  heavy  ones  are  tomato-catsup,  the  back- 
woods favourite,  which  must  be  carried  in  bottles, 
and  pickles  of  all  kinds,  which  are  good  for  permanent 
camps  or  the  easiest  journeys  only,  and  the  like 
may  be  said  of  liquid  sauces.  The  best  condiments 
for  camping  are  in  powder  form,  as  mustard,  paprika, 
curry,  cayenne,  ginger,  etc.  Of  these  paprika  and 
mustard  are  the  most  wholesome.  Among  condiments 
I  reckon  garlic,  without  a  pod  of  which  I  seldom  go 
camping.  Discretely  used  it  is  a  wonderful  aid  to 
the  cook.  A  few  common  country  pickles  may  be 
taken  if  nothing  else  that  is  sour  is  in  the  larder.  On 
easy  trips  a  can  of  vinegar  is  almost  necessary.  A 
tiny  quantity  of  allspice  may  be  taken  for  the  swell 
cook  when  he  wants  to  spread  himself  on  some  fes- 
tive occasion. 

The  permanent  camp  is  the  proper  place  for  such 
things  as  wines,  sweet  oil,  confectionery,  canned 
vegetables,  etc.  The  best  kinds  of  confectionery  for 
the  camp  are  candied  ginger  and  lime-drops,  though 
here  tastes  differ. 

Books  on  camping  usually  contain  check-lists  of 
rations  and  stores  for  parties  of  different  sizes.  My 


1 1 8  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

belief,  founded  on  experience,  is  that  nobody  ever 
consults  them,  persons  and  conditions  varying  too 
greatly.  Nevertheless,  as  a  general  guide,  I  add  here 
the  minimum  quantity  of  the  staples  for  a  party 
of  four  on  a  two  weeks'  trip  in  canoes. 

Flour    (including    ryemeal,    buckwheat,    cornmeal, 

etc.,  no  bread  being  taken)     .          .          .          -30  Ibs. 

Rice        ........      10  Ibs. 

Pork,  bacon,  ham     .          .          .          .          .          .20  Ibs. 

Lard        ........        5  Ibs. 

Sugar      ........      10  Ibs. 

Tea 2  Ibs. 

Coffee 3  Ibs. 

Beans      .          .          .          .          .          .          .          .8  Ibs. 

Evaporated  milk       .          .          .          .          .          .10  cans 

Butter     ........      10  Ibs. 

Dried  fruit  .          .          .          .          .          .5  Ibs. 

Potatoes,  fresh          .          .          .          .          .          .      J  bu. 

This  is  for  an  easy  trip,  some  fish  or  game  being  secured 

in  the  woods.    Luxuries  may  be  added. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

COOKERY 
COOKING-KITS 

ON  trips  of  only  two  or  three  days'  duration,  or 
when  everything  must  be  carried  overland  on  the 
campers'  backs,  the  kit  must  be  a  very  simple  one, 
consisting  of  (for  a  party  of  two  or  three)  a  frying- 
pan,  two  retinned  or  aluminum  pails  that  nest 
together,  small  salt  and  pepper  shakers,  and  for 
each  person  a  tin  cup,  knife,  fork,  and  spoon,  with 
perhaps  a  large  spoon  for  cooking.  This  last  article 
may  be  replaced  by  a  wooden  stirrer  or  ladle  cut  in 
the  woods,  while  the  hunting-knife  may  do  for  all 
purposes,  this  saving  the  case-knives.  Those  who 
are  capable  of  making  hard  overland  trips  without 
conveyances  may  be  expected  to  go  very  light  indeed, 
and  still  more  may  this  be  taken  for  granted  in  the 
case  of  a  single  camper,  who  should  get  along  with  a 
small-sized  frying-pan,  one  pail,  salt-shaker,  tin 
cup  and  fork,  all  of  which  may  be  slung  on  his  pack, 
which  consists  of  his  blanket  or  sleeping-bag  and 
contents  with  a  tent-fly  or  large  poncho.  All  extra 
clothing  and  provisions  except  pork  are  in  the  pack. 
The  hatchet  and  cup  are  slung  on  the  belt,  the  pork 
is  in  the  pail,  and  rifle  and  fish-rod  are  carried  in 
the  hand.  I  do  not  much  like  the  so-called  one-man 

119 


120  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

kits,  of  which  the  best  is  perhaps  the  U.  S.  Army 
mess-kit.  The  Preston  kit  is  more  elaborate  and 
much  more  costly  ($6.00).  It  is  of  aluminum  except 
for  a  quite  unnecessary  canteen.  This  may  be  left 
at  home,  the  space  being  filled  with  food.  The 
spoon  is  aluminum  and  therefore  to  be  condemned. 
It  is  however  a  strong,  light,  and  compact  kit.  Can- 
teens are  not  needed  in  the  north  woods,  where  water 
is  to  be  found  everywhere. 

For  ordinary  trips  excellent  nesting  kits  of  alumi- 
num (really  an  aluminum  alloy)  can  be  had  of  the 
dealers.  The  "A.  and  F."  is  made  for  2,  3,  4,  6, 
and  8  persons.  That  for  four  costs  $16.60,  including 
canvas  carrying-bag,  and  weighs  8J  pounds.  It 
consists  of  three  pails  (in  woods  parlance  kettles), 
two  frying-pans,  coffee-pot,  cups,  soup-bowls,  knives, 
forks,  tea-spoons,  and  dessert-spoons.  The  larger 
kits  contain  another  pail  and  more  smaller  articles. 
I  have  given  this  kit  some  long  and  hard  trials  and 
found  it  pretty  near  perfection.  My  chief  fear  was 
that  it  would  prove  tender,  but  it  is  actually  tougher 
than  tin  or  iron,  very  much  lighter,  and  far  easier  to 
clean.  I  would  not  now  have  any  other,  in  spite  of 
its  cost.  I  have  a  few  minor  personal  objections  to 
it,  one  being  the  soup-bowls,  the  use  of  which  I 
cannot  see  and  therefore  leave  them  at  home.  The 
other  objection  is  the  use  of  aluminum  for  spoons  and 
cups,  for  they  are  simply  infernal  when  food  and 
drink  are  hot,  and  I  have  burnt  my  mouth  with  them 
far  too  often.  But  there  is  a  way  out  of  the  difficulty. 
There  is  also  a  kit  similar  in  character  to  the  aluminum, 
but  of  retinned  steel,  so  that  when  ordering  the  alumi- 
num kit  you  may  stipulate  for  the  including  of  tin  cups 
and  spoons.  The  retinned  set,  which  I  have  also  used 


Cookery  121 

in  times  past,  is  a  good  one  and  costs  for  four  persons 
$5.75.  If  you  can  afford  the  initial  outlay  the  alumi- 
num kit  will  prove  economical  in  the  long  run.  The 
"Moosehead"  aluminum  kit  is  somewhat  similar 
to  the  "A.  &  F.,"  but  rather  heavier  and  somewhat 
more  expensive.  Neither  kit  contains  the  following 
articles  necessary  for  long  trips:  salt  and  pepper 
shakers,  sugar-box,  broiler,  cooking-spoon. 

An  excellent  feature  of  these  kits  is  the  patent 
hollow  handle  of  the  frying-pans,  into  which  a  three- 
or  four-foot  stick  is  thrust,  enabling  the  cook  to  fry 
without  scorching  himself.  Whoever  has  broiled 
himself  along  with  the  fish  or  pork  over  a  hot  coal 


Fig.  23. — Frying-pan  and  Detachable  Handle 

fire  will  appreciate  this  immunity.  It  is  all  very  well 
to  say  that  a  short  handle  is  quite  as  good  providing 
a  proper  cooking  fire  is  made ;  but  such  a  fire  cannot 
always  be  provided  and  even  then  it  is  often  too  hot 
for  comfort.  Besides  the  tubular  handles  may  be 
used  as  short  as  desired,  and  they  have  the  great 
advantage  of  being  detachable,  so  that  there  is  no 
long  iron  handle  sticking  out  when  you  want  to 
pack  the  pan. 

Another  good  cooking-kit  that  I  have  used  with 
satisfaction  is  the  Wilson  "  Kamp  Kook's  Kit/' 
which  is  very  elaborate  so  far  as  the  number  of  pieces 
goes  and  very  strong,  though  heavy,  weighing  twenty 
pounds.  It  costs,  with  twenty-one  cooking  pieces 
and  fifty- four  pieces  of  tableware  (for  six  persons), 


122  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

$16.  The  coffee-pot,  having  a  solid-lip  spout  and 
holding  three  quarts,  is  a  particularly  fine  article. 

Of  course  a  good  camp-kit  may  be  got  together 
without  recourse  to  the  dealers,  though  in  the  end  it 
is  apt  to  weigh  more  and  be  less  compact  than  those 
just  mentioned.  The  first  step  towards  the  collection 
of  a  kit  is  a  visit  to  the  aluminum  counter  of  a  depart- 
ment store,  where  good  plates,  forks,  pans,  broiler, 
and  coffee-pot  may  be  found.  The  frying-pan  will  not 
have  the  patent  handle,  but  a  stick  may  be  wired  on 
in  the  woods,  or  the  whole  patent  pan  may  be  bought. 
A  supply  of  strong  wire  should  always  be  taken  into 
the  woods  on  long  trips  for  such  emergencies  as 
these.  The  sides  of  a  good  frying-pan  should  be 
nearly  perpendicular  (not  flaring) ,  so  that  the  bottom 
shall  be  as  large  as  possible.  The  pails  should  be  of 
different  sizes  so  that  they  will  nest  together.  Always 
get  the  best  of  block-tin.  The  salt  and  pepper 
shakers  should  be  of  aluminum  or  the  best  tin,  as 
anything  else  will  rust,  and  the  holes  should  be  extra 
large,  as  even  the  best  salt  tends  to  cake  in  the  woods. 
The  broiler  should  be  a  stout  one  with  flanges  on 
the  sides  to  prevent  the  food  slipping  into  the  fire. 
Most  broilers  do  not  have  this  excellent  feature. 
The  broiler  may  be  carried  in  the  case  with  the 
folding  baker  (see  below).  A  chain  pot-cleaner  is  a 
comfort  in  a  permanent  camp.  Good,  generous- 
sized  tin  cups  should  be  bought.  I  like  mine  with 
broad  flat  bottoms  and  handles  not  cut  through  at 
the  bottom,  so  that  they  may  be  slung  on  the  belt 
if  desired.  The  handles  should  be  rivetted  on.  For 
nesting,  however,  they  should  slope  gently  to  the 
bottom  and  have  cut-through  handles. 

The  folding  baker  is  carried  flat  in  a  canvas  case 


Cookery 


123 


together  with  its  pan  and  kneading-board,  and,  if  made 
of  aluminum,  weighs  only  4^  pounds  in  the  largest  size 
($4.50  with  case)  and  z\  pounds  in  the  smaller  ($4.00). 
The  latter  bakes  a  dozen  biscuits  at  a  time,  so  that 
two  batches  are  sufficient  for  four  persons.  The 
baker  is  really  a  heat-reflector,  being  open  to  the 
coals  on  one  side,  the  heat  having  access  above  and 
below  the  pan.  No  better  apparatus  for  baking 
biscuits  exists,  and  game  or  anything  else  can  be  done 
in  it  excellently.  Its  light  weight  and  flat  form  make 
it  easy  to  pack. 


FIG.  24. — Folding  Baker 

On  fishing  trips  a  Marble  fish-cleaning  knife  is 
worth  taking.  A  rotary  can-opener,  which  is  inserted 
in  the  middle  of  the  can's  top  and  cuts  round  the  edge, 
is  a  necessity  if  canned  goods  are  taken  at  all. 

The  catalogues  of  the  sporting  goods  dealers  are 
full  of  all  manner  of  conveniences  for  camping,  such 
as  meat-safes,  grates,  hot-water  dishes,  wall-pockets, 
but  I  should  not  wish  to  go  on  record  as  recommending 
them  as  necessities,  though  no  doubt  they  would 
all  come  in  handy  in  a  permanent  camp.  There  is  no 
harm  in  trying  them;  it 's  part  of  the  fun. 

There  should  be  no  soldering  about    any    utensil 


124  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

likely  to  come  in  contact  with  a  camp-fire,  or  the 
soldered  parts  will  melt  off  "  as  sure  as  shootin'." 
Rivets  are  the  solution. 


GETTING    MEALS 

While  the  fire  is  being  started  and  the  utensils 
unpacked  the  cook  will  be  deciding  the  great  ques- 
tion of  the  bill  of  fare.  He  fills  at  least  two  kettles 
with  the  purest  water  to  be  had  (a  spring  is  likely 
to  be  near) ,  and  then  cuts  two  stout  poles  from  four 
to  six  feet  long  and  sharpens  the  stouter  ends.  One 
of  these  is  driven  obliquely  into  the  ground,  the 
bail  of  a  kettle  is  hung  across  a  nick  in  the 
vV  upper  end,  which  is  then  pressed  down  so 

^  that  the  kettle  will  be  poised  over  the  right 

part  of  the  fire.  If  the  soil  is  too  loose 
to  hold  the  pole,  rocks  may  be  used  to 
hold  down  the  big  end  or  prop  up  the 
other  to  the  required  angle.  The  tea-  or 
coffee-pot  and  frying-pan  are  placed  near 
the  fire  to  warm  up,  whatever  is  to  be 
boiled  is  put  into  the  pot  as  soon  as  the 
water  is  at  the  proper  temperature,  and  the 
food  to  be  fried  or  broiled  is  then  prepared 
for  cooking.  A  fire-hook  or  hanger,  to 
handle  hot  kettles,  is  also  cut.  Every 
FIG.  25.—  lumber  camp  has  a  cookee,  or  cook's  assist- 
Fire-hook  ant,  and  the  office  (which  may  be  held  by 
the  members  of  the  party  in  rotation) 
is  not  a  bad  one  in  a  sporting  camp.  The  cookee 
makes  the  fire,  cuts  the  pole-cranes,  draws  the 
water,  and  "lays  the  table,"  i.e.,  unpacks  the; 
kit;  and  makes  himself  generally  useful,  while  the 


Cookery  125 

cook  confines  his  attention  to  purely  culinary  opera- 
tions. If  potatoes  are  to  be  sliced  or  fish  dressed  the 
cookee  helps.  The  result  of  this  arrangement  is 
quickly  and  easily  served  meals. 

By  the  time  the  hardwood  fire  has  burned  itself 
down  to  smokeless,  glowing  coals  frying  and  broiling 
may  begin.       Most  writers  tell  us  that  it  is 
bad   woods-form  to   cook  over  the   camp  ~.^ 

fire,    and  that   a  small  extra  fire    should 
be  made  at  one  side  for  this  purpose.       Nessmuk 
may    serve    as   the  spokesman  of    these  gentlemen, 
with   whom   I  am   not   wholly   in  agreement.      His 
directions  for  making  a  forest  range  are  as  follows: 

Two  logs,  six  feet  long  and  eight  inches  wide,  are  laid 
parallel  but  seven  inches  apart  at  one  end  and  only  four  at 
the  other.  They  are  bedded  firmly  and  flattened  a  little  on 
the  inside.  On  the  upper  side  the  logs  are  carefully  hewed 
and  levelled  until  pots,  pans,  and  kettles  will  sit  firmly  and 
evenly  on  them.  A  strong  forked  stake  is  driven  at  each 
end  of  the  space,  and  a  cross-pole,  two  or  three  inches  thick, 
laid  on,  for  hanging  kettles.  (Woodcraft}. 

Now  if  you  have  plenty  of  time,  say  in  a  permanent 
camp,  there  is  no  objection  to  building  such  a  range, 
but  I  respectfully  submit  that  it  is  quite  out  of  place 
otherwise  and  is  totally  unnecessary,  for  the  ordinary 
fire,  if  built  right  and  with  the  proper  woods,  is 
just  as  good  and  better  for  boiling  and  broiling,  es- 
pecially if  -you  have  the  correct  implements,  as 
described  above,  and  very  much  better  for  baking 
(see  Making  Camp).  The  cook  does  not  allow  the 
pan  to  rest  on  the  fire,  for  frying  is  an  operation  that 
needs  one's  whole  attention.  The  logs  would  keep  the 
coals  from  the  baker,  which  must  be  placed  before 


126  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

an  open  fire.  Broiling  is  done  best  by  propping  up 
the  broiler  before  the  coals  by  means  of  short  forked 
sticks. 

A  very  good  cooking-range  is  made  of  two  short 
logs  of  the  Nessmuk  kind,  but  diverging  so  that  their 
ends  are  about  six  inches  apart  on  one  side  and  two 
feet  on  the  other.  At  the  wider  opening  large  stones 


FIG.  26. — Modified  Nessmuk  Range 

are  placed  next  the  log  ends,  two  or  three  on  each 
side,  graded  in  size  towards  the  front.  Across  these 
poles  of  hardwood  are  laid.  On  this  side  of  the  fire- 
place the  baker  is  set,  while  the  frying  and  broiling 
may  be  done  between  the  logs,  in  the  Nessmuk 
fashion.  (See  sketch  on  this  page.) 

In  the  choice  of  fare  the  cook  is  governed  by  the 
extent  of  his  larder  and  the  time  at  his  command. 
Choice  of  If  the  famished  cry  of  ' '  Hurry  up  there  cook ! 
Dishes  I  'm  as  hungry  as  a  bear!"  arises,  summary 
measures  are  in  order  and  the  meal  must  be  plain; 
but  if  the  cook  and  cookee  have  an  hour  or  more  at 
their  disposal,  they  can  afford  to  allow  their  fancy 
a  little  play.  In  fifteen  minutes  a  smart  cook  should 
be  able  to  set  before  his  companions  if  not  more 
than  four  in  number,  tea  or  coffee  and  flapjacks,  to 


Cookery  127 

which  may  be  added  anything  cold  that  the  larder 
may  boast.  Broiled  or  fried  fish  will  take  five  or  six 
minutes  longer,  potatoes  still  more  time,  and  so 
on  up  to  what  may  be  called  in  the  woods  elaborate 
dishes,  like  stews  and  roasts. 

Scrupulous  cleanliness  should  be  the  cook's  motto. 
He  may  not  be  able  to  attain  to  the  very  highest 
standard  in  this  respect,  but  he  can  do  Cleanyness 
his  best.  He  should  begin  operations 
by  washing  his  hands  (which  may  be  done  as  osten- 
tatiously as  possible ;  it  inspires  his  companions  with 
confidence!).  Jesting  aside,  it  is  well  to  keep  the 
traditional  peck  of  dirt  down  to  that  one  peck,  and 
even  the  most  hardened  woodsman  likes  his  food 
cooked  and  served  as  decently  as  possible.  Much 
depends  upon  the  state  of  the  dishes,  and  there  is 
no  excuse  for  these  to  be  otherwise  than  perfectly 
clean  (see  below,  Dish-washing). 

Much  of  the  drudgery  in  camp  is  avoided  or  min- 
imised by  dividing  and  systematising  the  duties. 
Have  the  cook  and  cookee  for  the  day  Division  of 
known  beforehand.  Another  of  the  party  Labour 
may  be  assigned  to  some  other  special  duty,  such  as 
supplying  wood.  One  gets  the  habit  of  such  an 
arrangement  quickly,  and  the  necessary  camp  duties 
then  cease  to  be  the  irksome  tasks  of  volunteers  who 
regard  themselves  more  or  less  in  the  light  of 
martyrs.  Even  when  all  such  work  is  done  by  the 
guides  the  employers  should  help  where  they  can. 
It  is  different  in  the  old  world,  where  people  H  .  f  - 
are  frightfully  apprehensive  of  losing  caste 
by  hobnobbing  with  their  servants  and  huntsmen. 


128  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

The  guides  of  the  north  woods  are  in  almost  all  cases 
as  much  companions  as  servants.  They  know  their 
places  and  are  respectful,  but  they  are  with  few 
exceptions  men  of  a  certain  independence  of  char- 
acter and  know  their  own  worth;  they  value  their 
self-respect  to  the  point  of  sensitiveness.  The  man 
who  is  afraid  of  losing  dignity  by  helping  his  guide 
in  the  duties  of  camp  life  would  be  a  ridiculous,  not 
to  say  contemptible  figure  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic. 

Most  campers  who  employ  guides  allow  them  to  do 
all  the  cooking  and  thereby  miss  a  lot  of  fun.  The 
most  enjoyable  trips  I  ever  took  were  those  upon 
which  everybody  took  a  hand  as  cook,  excepting 
such  as  proved  that  their  total  lack  of  culinary  ability 
was  a  devastating  fact.  Just  as  nearly  every  clubman 
is  known  for  the  preparation  of  some  little  chafing- 
dish  dainty,  so  many  campers  boast  of  some  mysteri- 
ous but  delicious  dish  known  only  to  themselves,  and 
the  concoction  of  these  messes  before  a  scoffing 
camp,  which  nevertheless  generally  remains  to  lick 
the  platter  clean,  is  always  amusing  and  often  most 
satisfactory.  The  failures  contribute  hugely  to  the 
"gaiety  of  nations." 

One  last  hint  to  the  cook :  If  he  is  wise  in  his  genera- 
tion he  will  not  risk  having  things  thrown  at  him  by 
posing  the  old,  old  question,  "Well,  boys,  what'  11  we 
have  to-day?  "  but  will  decide  beforehand  upon  one 
or  more  dishes  to  propose,  thus  placing  the  onus 
of  choice  upon  his  victims. 

Nearly   all   camp   cookery  books   presuppose   the 

possession  of  materials  which  the  majority 
Cook-books  F,  .    ^ 

of  campers  never  carry  with  them,  notably 

fresh    eggs    and    milk.      The  following    recipes   are 


Cookery  129 

guiltless  of  either,  dried  eggs  being  recommended 
when  in  camp,  though  not  necessary,  and  evaporated 
milk  taking  the  place  of  fresh. 

Wood  fires  are  very  hot  and  it  is  better  not  to 
trust  too  implicitly  to  their  tender  mercies,  but  to 
watch  pan,  baker,  and  kettle  closely,  General 
especially  the  last,  as  water  has  a  way  of  Warning 
boiling  out  before  one  is  aware  of  it,  and  the  result 
is  disaster. 


During  the  meal  a  large  kettle  of  water  is  being 
heated  for  the  dish-washing,  for  the  secret  of  this  art 
is  plenty  of  boiling  water.  If  you  have  Dish- 

no  large  dish  you  must  dip  your  implements  Washing 
in,  piece  by  piece.  Otherwise  put  the  things,  knives 
and  forks  first,  into  the  biggest  pail  or  dish,  pour 
water  over  them,  and  let  them  stand  a  minute  or 
two.  Then  temper  the  water  to  bearable  heat  and 
have  one  man  scrub  the  pieces  with  the  dish-rag, 
while  a  second  wipes.  Sapolio  will  help  mightily. 
Pans  may  have  to  be  scraped  with  the  "chain-rag," 
after  the  most  of  the  grease  has  been  removed  with 
a  knife.  Frying-pans  should,  before  cleaning,  be 
partly  filled  with  water  which  is  brought  to  a  boil. 
If  you  are  travelling  very  light  a  round  piece  of  sod 
just  fitting  the  pan  will  be  found  an  excellent  cleaner. 
Wash  both  dish-rag  and  wiper  after  each  meal.  The 
former  should  be  well  boiled  every  once  in  a  while. 
Keep  the  camp  clean,  throwing  refuse  either  into  a 
big  hole,  to  be  covered  up  after  each  meal,  or  deposit- 
ing it  some  ways  from  the  camp,  to  avoid  attracting 
flies. 
9 


130  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

RECIPES 

Beverages 

Tea.  Into  a  dry,  heated  pot  throw  a  heaping 
teaspoonful  for  each  person  plus  two  "for  the  pot/' 
or,  if  more  than  four  persons,  three  extra.  Over  this 
pour  boiling  water,  two  cups  for  each  person,  and 
allow  to  draw  for  at  least  ten  minutes  next  the  fire 
before  drinking.  Never  boil  tea,  Nessmuk  to  the 
contrary  notwithstanding. 

Coffee.  In  a  dry,  heated  pot  place  two  heaping 
dessertspoonfuls  of  ground  coffee  for  each  person, 
and  over  this  pour  a  pint  of  boiling  water  per  person. 
Set  next  the  fire  for  about  ten  minutes.  If  the  water 
is  absolutely  seething,  as  it  should  be,  it  is  better  not 
to  boil  the  coffee,  as  its  flavour  and  aroma  are  thereby 
impaired.  If  eggs  are  plenty  in  camp  one  may  be 
mixed  with  the  ground  coffee,  shell  and  all,  before 
the  water  is  added,  in  order  to  settle  the  brew.  This 
may  also  be  done  by  pouring  in  a  little  cold  water 
after  brewing.  There  is  no  objection  to  letting  the 
coffee  boil  up  for  a  second  after  putting  it  in  the  pot, 
but  not  longer.  Nevertheless,  the  fact  must  be 
placed  on  record  that  the  great  majority  of  people 
do  boil  their  coffee — at  the  expense  of  the  aroma. 

Cocoa.    Follow  directions  on  the  can. 

Grain  Foods 

Biscuits.  (For  4  persons).  Mix  into  a  quart  of 
flour  2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  i  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  a  piece  of  lard  (or  cold  pork  fat) 
size  of  an  egg.  Add  i  tablespoonful  of  Borden's 
evaporated  milk  (or  2  of  milk-powder),  and  cold 
water  enough  to  make  a  dough  that  can  be  rolled 


Cookery  131 

out,  with  a  bottle  or  pin,  on  the  bread  board  (of 
the  folding-baker),  one  half  inch  thick.  Cut  into 
biscuit  form  with  the  top  of  the  baking-powder  can 
or  a  knife,  and  place  in  rows  in  the  greased  bread-pan 
of  the  baker,  which  is  then  placed  before  a  hot  fire. 
Keep  your  eye  on  the  batch  or  it  will  burn.  Turn 
the  pan  at  the  proper  time.  A  sliver  of  wood  thrust 
into  the  biscuit  will  prove  whether  they  are  done  or 
not.  If  baked  too  slowly  the  bread  will  be  hard  and 
tough;  if  too  quickly  it  will  be  raw  inside.  Experi- 
entia  docet. 

If  there  is  no  pan  the  mixing  may  be  done 
right  in  the  flour-bag  itself,  though  it  takes  a  little 
practice  to  do  well.  Do  not  knead  bread  much, 
or  it  will  be  tough. 

Bread  is  made  like  biscuit,  but  is  put  into  the  pan 
without  cutting. 

Rye-  and  Oatmeal-Bread  are  made  by  substituting 
one  or  the  other  for  a  greater  or  smaller  part  of  the 
white  flour.  In  rye-bread  the  ryemeal  may  predom- 
inate; in  oatmeal-bread  the  proportion  may  be 
about  half  and  half. 

Those  whose  ambitions  rise  to  the  making  of  "real 
home  "bread  that  must  rise  over  night  had  better 
take  some  lessons  from  mother  before  leaving  home, 
as  the  science  cannot  be  learned  from  books.  Nor 
does  the  average  wilderness  camper  have  either  the 
time  or  the  proper  pan  for  yeast-raised  bread. 

Johnny-cake  (corn-bread).  (4  persons.)  Mix 
dry  cornmeal  and  flour  in  the  proportion  of  3  to  2 
(or  half  and  half  if  preferred)  with  2  teaspoonfuls 
of  baking-powder,  i  of  salt,  i  of  sugar,  and  a  piece  of 
lard  (or  pork  fat  )  size  of  egg.  Add  tablespoonful 
of  Borden's  cream  (or  2  of  milk-powder)  and  make 


132  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

into  thick  batter,  which  is  put  into  greased  bread-pan, 
and  baked  before  the  fire  in  baker.  If  dried  egg 
is  taken  mix  in  2  tablespoonfuls  when  dry. 

Corn  Pone  (hoe-cake).  This  is  Johnny-cake  baked 
in  the  frying-pan,  which  is  propped  up  before  the 
coals.  It  may  also  be  baked  on  a  flat  stone.  To  make 
Ashcake  lay  the  mixed  dough  on  a  flat  stone  near  the 
fire  long  enough  for  the  surface  to  harden  slightly, 
then  cover  it  completely  with  hot  ashes  and  leave 
it  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  Brush  off  the  ashes 
and  eat  soon. 

Cereals,  such  as  oatmeal,  cream  of  wheat,  etc.,  bear 
directions  for  cooking  on  the  outside  of  the  packages. 

Hasty  Pudding  (cornmeal  mush).  (For  4  persons.) 
Add  a  scant  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  a  quart  of  boiling 
water  and  stir  in  gradually  and  thoroughly  in  order  to 
avoid  lumps, a  heaping  cup  of  cornmeal.  Boil  until  soft 
and  smooth  (at  least  20  minutes),  stirring  occasion- 
ally to  prevent  burning  and  adding  a  little  hot  water 
when  necessary.  Practice  will  teach  one  the  proper 
consistency.  If  too  watery  it  will  not  slice  well  when 
cold,  to  make 

Fried  Mush,  one  of  the  delicacies  of  the  woods. 
Slice  the  cold  hasty  pudding  and  fry  brown  in  pork 
fat.  Serve  with  molasses,  syrup,  or  butter.  Cold 
oatmeal  may  be  cooked  in  like  manner. 

Boiled  Rice.  Wash  cup  of  rice  and  put  in  2  quarts 
of  boiling  water  with  large  spoonful  salt.  Boil  till 
done,  stirring  frequently. 

Buckwheat  Cakes  are  the  best  variety  of  flapjack. 
They  are  the  easiest  and  quickest  dish  to  prepare  in 
the  woods,  for  the  self-raising  buckwheat  flour  is 
merely  mixed  with  the  proper  amount  of  cold  water 
and  large  spoonfuls  of  it  ladled  into  the  very  hot 


Cookery  133 

frying-pan  greased  with  pork  fat  or  butter.  A  hot 
fire  makes  crisp  cakes,  as  likewise  does  a  spoonful  of 
molasses  added  to  the  batter.  The  best  way  to 
make  cakes  is  to  fill  the  pan  with  the  batter  and  make 
one  large  cake  at  a  time.  When  the  under  side 
appears  to  be  done  more  fat  is  put  into  the  pan  on 
each  side  and  the  solemn  ceremony  of  -flopping  the 
cake  takes  place,  by  which  the  cake  is  tossed  into 
the  air  and  caught  elegantly  .and  precisely,  raw 
side  down,  in  the  pan  as  it  falls.  Duffers  are  recom- 
mended to  learn  this  elegant  art  at  once,  as  only 
in  this  manner  can  a  large  cake,  usually  called  the 
"cookee's  flapjack,  "  be  turned  cleanly  and  with  style. 
Don't  mind  a  failure  or  two,  for  nothing  contributes 
more  surely  to  the  gaiety  of  nations  and  of  camps 
than  to  behold  the  writhing  disk  shot  confidently 
skyward,  only  to  fall  ignominiously  among  the  blue 
flames  of  the  camp-fire  and  the  remarks  tinged  with 
the  same  hue  of  the  unfortunate  "flopper."  After 
every  batch  grease  the  pan  again.  Serve  with  molas- 
ses, syrup,  or  sugar  and  butter. 

Flapjacks  (griddle  cakes) .  (For  4.)  Mix  dry  as  for 
biscuits  (see  above)  (with  the  addition  of  two  dessert- 
spoonfuls of  dried  egg  if  you  have  it),  add  the  cream 
and  water  sufficient  to  make  a  thin,  easily  running 
batter.  Fry  and  serve  like  buckwheat  cakes.  The 
addition  to  flapjack  or  buckwheat  batter  of  a  cup  of 
well  boiled  rice  makes  the  cakes  delicate  and  tender. 

Vegetables 

All  packages  of  evaporated  and  other  dried  vege- 
tables bear  directions  for  cooking  on  the  labels.  In 
regard  to  green  vegetables  it  is  almost  wasted  space 


134  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

to  give  directions,  as  the  seasoning,  time  of  cooking, 
etc.,  are  matters  of  experience  easily  learned.  A  few 
common  recipes  are  nevertheless  added. 

Potatoes  (too  heavy  except  for  easy  trips).  Choose 
those  with  small  eyes. 

Boiled  :  leave  jackets  on,  wash,  cut  out  bad  parts, 
cut  up  if  too  large.  Put  into  salted  boiling  water  and 
cook  until  a  sliver  will  go  in  easily.  Strain  and  stand 
by  fire. 

Masked:  This  is  a  great  bother,  but  sometimes 
worth  the  trouble,  as  mashed  potatoes  are  not 
injured  by  cold,  they  keep  forever  and  are  very  light. 
They  are  therefore  a  good  emergency  food.  Boil  until 
quite  done;  then  drain,  peel,  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  butter,  add  a  little  milk,  and  mash  with  a  bottle 
or  other  implement. 

Baked:  (one  of  the  most  difficult  feats  is  to  roast 
potatoes  well  in  the  ashes  without  burning  them) : 
Put  them  in  the  coals  but  with  enough  ashes  over 
them  to  prevent  burning.  Haul  them  out  when  you 
think  they  must  be  done,  and  return  if  necessary. 
The  potatoes  may  also  be  wrapped  individually 
in  large  leaves  (or  moist  paper)  and  placed  among  the 
coals.  I  have  had  best  success  with  this  latter  method. 

Fried  Boiled:  Slice  cold  potatoes  and  fry  in  a  very 
hot  pan  with  a  lot  of  pork  fat  or  bacon.  Cubes  of 
pork  improve  them.  Be  careful  about  seasoning  if 
pork  is  used.  Woodsmen  add  sliced  onions. 

Fried  Raw:  Slice  raw  potatoes  very  thin  and  fry 
in  boiling  fat  a  few  at  a  time.  Take  out  with  a  fork, 
straining  off  grease, 

Stewed:  Cut  up  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  cubes 
half  inch  long  and  stew  them  in  water  mixed  with 
cream  and  butter.  Season  to  taste. 


Cookery  135 

Beans.  The  large  ones,  Limas  and  others,  are  best 
for  boiling;  the  smaller  sizes  for  baking. 

Boiled:  Let  a  pound  of  pork  boil  for  half  an  hour 
in  just  enough  water  to  cover  it.  Parboil  extra  a 
pint  of  beans ;  drain  water  from  pork  and  place  beans 
round  it;  add  two  quarts  of  water,  and  boil  steadily 
about  2  hours.  Nessmuk  recommended  adding  a 
few  potatoes,  peeled,  a  half-hour  or  so  before  the 
beans  are  done. 

Baked:  Boil  beans  and  pork  until  the  former  begin 
to  crack.  Then  drain,  place  pork  in  middle  of  a 
large  kettle  with  beans  round  it;  invert  another 
kettle  or  other  cover  over  this,  place  well  down 
in  glowing  fire,  and  heap  coals  over  all.  Examine  from 
time  to  time  and  add  water  if  necessary.  When  the 
beans  are  thoroughly  browned  on  top  they  are  done. 
Lumbermen  place  their  big  iron  or  earthenware  bean- 
pots  in  a  deep  " bean-hole"  covered  with  coals,  and 
no  other  baked  beans  can  rival  those  of  the  lumber- 
camps. 

Onions.  Dip  in  water  before  peeling  and  the  eyes 
will  not  be  affected.  Boil  in  salted  water  twenty- five 
minutes  to  thirty-five,  or  until  done. 

Fried:  Slice  and  fry  in  fat.  Fried  onions  are 
generally  made  in  connection  with  potatoes  or  pork. 
An  Onion  Fry,  beloved  of  guides,  is  a  fry  up  of  cold 
potatoes  and  onions,  about  half  and  half. 

Mushrooms.  If  you  are  lucky  enough  to  find  them 
in  the  woods  and  are  sure  they  are  not  toadstools, 
stew  them  in  evaporated  milk  and  water  until  soft, 
and  season  with  salt,  paprika,  and  butter.  They 
may  also  be  cooked  in  meat  and  other  stews  or  used 
to  flavour  soups. 

Cranberries,    When  found  wild  these  are  generally 


136  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

very  bitter,  so  that,  after  sorting  and  washing,  they 
must  be  stewed  in  water  with  the  addition  of  J 
cup  of  sugar  to  each  cup  of  cranberries. 

Dried  Fruit,  (apples,  apricots,  prunes,  etc  )  should 
be  covered  with  water,  and  allowed  to  cook  slowly 
until  soft.  Renew  water  as  it  boils  away.  Add  sugar 
to  taste  while  cooking.  Dried  Potatoes,  which  are 
light  and  really  not  bad,  must  be  boiled  before  frying. 

Meats 

Pork.  The  opening  of  our  great  West  by  the 
explorer,  trapper,  and  lumberman  is  under  serious 
obligations  to  salt  pork,  as  it  ever  has  been,  and  still 
is,  the  great  food  staple  of  the  woodsman.  If  it  is 
very  salt  parboil  or  at  least  soak  it  well.  This  is 
only  necessary  when  pork  is  to  be  fried  as  a  separate 
dish.  Pork  is  mostly  used  as  an  ingredient  in  other 
dishes. 

Fried  Pork:  Slice  and  fry  slowly  in  the  pan.  Rather 
overdo  it  at  first  if  you  are  not  experienced  and  the 
next  time  you  will  know  just  when  it  is  cooked  right. 

Pork  fat  should  be,  whenever  possible,  poured 
off  and  preserved  for  cooking  purposes. 

Bacon:  Cut  off  the  rind,  slice,  and  fry  slowly, 
taking  care  that  the  fat  does  not  become  ignited 
by  the  fire. 

Like  pork,  bacon  is  used  mostly  in  other  dishes. 

Canned  Beef,  Tongue,  etc.  need  no  especial  comment. 

Venison  (including  moose,  elk,  and  caribou  meat). 
Always  tough  until  killed  a  week;  better  every  day 
after  that.  If  tough  pound  it  well. 

Roast:  Any  part  of  the  meat  may  be  used  but 
the  best  cuts  for  roasting  come  from  the  saddle  and 


Cookery  137 

the  shoulder.  Trim  by  cutting  off  superfluous  bone 
and  fat.  There  are  three  ways  of  roasting:  (i)  in 
the  baker  (the  most  convenient) ;  (2)  on  a  spit  over  the 
fire;  and  (3)  in  the  "Dutch"  oven. 

(1)  In  the  Baker:  Lay  and  pin  (with  slivers)  slices 
of  pork  or  bacon  over  the  meat  and  sprinkle  with  a 
little  flour,  and  with  salt.     Place  in  the  pan  of  the 
baker  and  cover  the  bottom  with  water.     Set  before 
the   coals   and   baste   occasionally   with   the   gravy. 
When  done  on  one  side  turn  the  pan.     Some  insert 
thin  slices  of  bacon  into  cuts  in  the  meat  (larding) 
before  roasting. 

(2)  Over  the  Fire:     Prepare  as  before  and  skewer 
well.  Thrust  a  spit,  perhaps  a  hardwood  stick,  through 
the  middle  and  rest  its  ends  upon  forked  stakes  on 
each   side   of  the   fire,   which   should   be   a  glowing 
bed  of  coals.     Time,  2  to  3  hours.     Turn  as  needed. 
The  spit  should  be  long  enough  to  allow  the  meat  to 
be  suspended  over  any  part  of  the  fire.     The  objec- 
tion to  this  method  is  that,  without  special  precau- 
tions,  the   outside    flesh    becomes    hard.     Buttered 
paper  fastened  on  will  partly  prevent  this. 

(3)  In  a  Dutch  Oven:  (a  large  iron  pot  with  a  lid, 
popular  in  the  West) :   Season  and  place  in  half  inch 
of  water  in  the  pot  and  cover.     From  time  to  time 
baste  with  the  gravy  by  means  of  a  rag  fastened  to  a 
stick. 

Gravy  may  be  made  in  the  bake-pan;  a  little 
finely  cut  liver  makes  it  rich. 

Steak:  It  is  pretty  well  admitted  that,  with  the 
exception  of  the  preparation  of  certain  special  dishes, 
rural  cooks  are  far  behind  their  urban  rivals  in 
knowledge  and  skill,  but  particularly  in  the  former. 
The  principal  reason  for  this  state  of  affairs  is  that 


138  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

in  the  country,  and  especially  among  woodsmen, 
tradition  is  so  hidebound  that  anything  new  stands 
a  poor  show  even  of  a  trial ;  and  added  to  this  is  the 
well-known  loyalty  of  all  mankind  to  the  dishes  of 
childhood.  One  of  the  principal  household  gods  of 
country  districts,  and  one  that  demands  as  many 
victims  as  Moloch,  is  the  frying-pan,  which  I  consider 
the  greatest  enemy  of  the  woodsman.  The  country 
standpoint  in  regard  to  it  is  exemplified  by  the  regu- 
larly accepted  name  of  a  piece  of  moosemeat.  "I 
killed  a  moose  yesterday  and  I  '11  send  you  up  a  fry." 
Not  a  roast  or  a  broil  but  a  fry.  I  have  never  been 
in  the  woods  with  a  native  who  did  n't  prefer  his 
moose  meat  fried,  and  the  same  applies  to  any  other 
food  that  can  be  got  into  the  pan.  The  result  is  that 
many  a  magnificent  specimen  of  manhood  suffers  from 
chronic  indigestion  that  would  kill  him  outright 
if  he  lived  any  other  life  than  that  of  the  woods. 
There  can,  of  course,  be  only  one  opinion  regarding 
the  comparative  excellence  of  fried  and  broiled  steak, 
the  latter  being  in  every  way  superior,  both  for 
palate  and  health.  Broiling  keeps  the  juices  and 
brings  out  the  flavour. 

Broiling:  Cut  from  i  to  ij  inches  thick,  season 
with  salt  (and  if  desired  pepper),  place  in  the  broiler, 
and  cook  over  or  before  glowing  coals,  the  hotter 
the  better.  Turn  frequently  until  done,  then  place 
on  hot  plate  with  a  little  butter. 

Frying  :  If  you  must  fry  steak,  then  have  the 
grease  in  the  pan  piping  hot,  so  that  an  incrustation 
will  form,  preventing  the  meat  from  absorbing  the 
grease.  As  this  rule  is  generally  neglected  by  wood- 
land cooks,  their  steaks  are  soggy  with  fat.  After 
the  meat  is  seared  pour  off  as  much  of  the  fat  as  is 


Cookery  139 

not  absolutely  needed,  and  turn  the  steak  frequently 
to  prevent  burning.  If  fried  underdone  with  great 
care  a  steak  cooked  in  this  manner  is  often  not  bad. 

Roasting  on  Sticks  is  a  favourite  way  to  cook  meat. 
A  piece  of  seasoned  meat  is  fixed  to  a  forked  wooden 
toaster,  and  either  held  or  stood  before  the  coals  until 
done.  This  is  a  kind  of  broiling  particularly  adapted 
to  small  quantities. 

Liver.  Always  delicious.  Remove  gall-bladder, 
(if  present),  parboil,  and  fry  with  bacon,  or  roast 
before  the  fire  with  strips  of  bacon. 

Moose-muffle.  The  Indians  usually  boil  it;  an 
onion  gives  it  flavour.  It  is  reckoned  a  great  de- 
licacy. Merci! 

Hares  (wrongly  called  rabbits)  are  very  good 
eating  in  cold  weather,  despite  the  rural  prejudice 
against  them.  They  should  not  be  eaten  for  several 
days  after  killing.  Though  they  may  be  cooked 
without  parboiling  if  kept  sufficiently  long,  they  are 
better,  if  eaten  within  three  or  four  days  of  being 
killed,  for  being  parboiled.  Do  this  in  a  kettle, 
seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  and  an  onion.  Fifteen 
minutes'  good  boiling  is  enough.  After  parboiling 
proceed  as  follows: 

To  Roast:  Cut  off  legs  at  body,  which  is  then  divided 
in  three  pieces.  Put  in  bake-pan  with  a  little  water 
and  slices  of  pork  or  bacon.  Baste  occasionally. 

To  Broil:  Salt  and  toast  before  fire  in  broiler,  or 
upon  a  stout  forked  stick. 

To  Fry:  Sprinkle  with  flour  and  fry  in  lard, 
or  pork. 

To  Stew:  After  parboiling  leave  the  meat  in  the 
kettle  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  rice,  a  couple 
of  onions  cut  up,  a  potato  or  so,  or,  in  fact,  anything 


140  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

that  will  enrich  the  stew.  Season  to  taste  (paprika 
or  curry  are  excellent  for  those  who  like  these  con- 
diments). As  the  water  evaporates  add  enough  to 
keep  the  meat  covered.  When  the  meat  parts  readily 
from  the  bones  the  stew  is  done. 

Porcupines  (especially  young  ones)  offer  an 
acceptable  variety  to  the  menu,  and  are  generally 
excellent  eating,  though  there  are  exceptions  on 
account  of  season  or  feed.  As  there  are  no  quills  on 
the  belly  and  the  skin  is  quite  loose,  a  porcupine  is 
easily  dressed.  It  should  be  hung  up  for  several  days 
before  cooking  unless  in  very  hot  weather.  It  may 
be  either  roasted  or  made  into  a  stew,  in  the  manner 
of  hares,  but  must  be  parboiled  at  least  a  half-hour 
to  be  tender.  One  part  of  the  porcupine  is,  however, 
always  a  delicacy — the  liver,  which  is  easily  removed 
by  making  a  cut  just  under  the  neck  into  which  the 
hand  is  thrust,  and  the  liver  pulled  out.  It  may  be 
fried  with  bacon,  or  baked  slowly  and  carefully  in  the 
baker-pan  with  slices  of  bacon.  Do  not  neglect 
to  try  porcupine  liver. 

Muskrat  may  be  eaten  for  a  change,  being  careful, 
in  cleaning,  not  to  break  the  musk-sacs.  Use  the 
backs  and  hind  legs  only,  parboiling  as  for  hare, 
and  then  either  stewing,  or  roasting  in  the  baker. 

Turtles  are  nearly  all  edible.  Boiling  water  kills 
them  at  once,  or  cut  ofl  the  heads,  which  bleeds  them. 

Stew:  Crack  and  pull  off  bottom  shell,  remove 
entrails,  cut  off  head  and  feet,  and  skin  legs;  also 
cut  covering  of  back  shell.  Place  in  hot  water  and 
boil  till  the  flesh  is  free ;  then  remove  bones  and  add 
an  onion,  and  seasoning.  If  on  hand  add  a  small 
quantity  of  sherry  or  brandy  and  omit  the  onion. 

Game  Birds    (grouse,  quail,  snipe,  woodcock,  etc.) 


Cookery  141 

must,  like  other  game,  hang  several  days  before 
cooking.  Woodsmen  often  commit  the  crime  of 
killing  a  grouse  and  slapping  it  into  the  frying-pan 
almost  before  it  is  cold.  Result:  tough  and  tasteless. 
Grouse  are  best  parboiled  before  roasting. 

To  Broil:  Pluck  if  there  is  time;    otherwise  skin 

and  draw.     To  pluck,  dip   in   boiling   water.     Open 

"down  the  back,  season,  lay  a  thin  slice  of  bacon  or 

pork  over  each  side,  and  place  in  the  broiler.     Broil 

over  hot  fire. 

To  Roast  over  Fire:  Dress  and  draw  and,  without 
splitting,  place  piece  of  bacon  or  pork  in  the  cavity. 
Set  up  before  the  coals  on  a  stick  which  may  be 
turned  as  the  bird  cooks. 

To  Roast  in  Baker:  Dress,  draw,  place  piece  of 
bacon  or  pork  in  the  cavity  and  pin  a  strip  over  the 
breast.  Place  in  the  pan  of  the  baker  in  a  very 
little  water.  Turn  pan  when  necessary. 

Note:  Woodcock  need  not  be  drawn  until  cooked, 
as  the  entrails  come  out  easily  then. 

Soups 

Canned  soups  are  very  good  but  are  admissible 
only  to  the  easiest  of  trips  on  account  of  their 
weight  and  bulk,  which  consists  almost  entirely 
of  water.  Much  better  are  the  soup  tablets  made  by 
Knorr,  Maggi,  and  others.  One  package  of  Maggi's 
costing  5  cents  is  enough  for  two  persons.  Knorr's 
packages  make  about  3 4  pints  each  and  cost  10 
cents.  Both  have  a  choice  of  a  large  variety  of 
vegetables. 

Peameal  Sausage  (Erbswurst)  has  already  been 
mentioned  above.  It  makes  a  tasty  and  nutritious 


1 42  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

soup  but  is  expensive.  When  somebody  on  this 
side  of  the  ocean  produces  the  same  thing  for  half 
the  price  it  will  be  well  worth  taking  into  the  woods. 
Rather  to  be  recommended  are  the  soups  which  may  be 
made  in  the  woods  of  materials  already  on  hand,  and 
which  may  be  divided  into  soups  proper,  gruels,  and 
broths  or  meat-soup. 

Potato-soup.     Mash   boiled   potatoes    (usually  left" 
over)  and  put  them  into  seasoned  boiling  water  with  a 
couple  of   onions    cut   up    into    small  pieces.     Cook 
until  the  onions  are  done,  stirring  frequently. 

Corn  and  Tomato  Soups  may  be  made  of  the  canned 
vegetables,  should  they  be  available.  Add  necessary 
water  and  boil  a  few  minutes. 

Rice  Soup  is  rather  insipid  made  of  rice  alone,  and 
rice  is  therefore  used  mostly  as  a  broth  ingredient. 

Bean  Soup  takes  some  time  to  make  properly, 
but  is  savoury  and  wholesome,  and  is  therefore  a 
permanent-camp  dish.  About  a  quart  of  beans 
(for  4  persons)  should  be  soaked  over  night  in  cold 
water,  and  then  put  into  three  quarts  of  cold  water 
and  boiled  slowly  for  half  an  hour.  Then  drain  off 
the  water  and  add  a  like  quantity  of  boiling  water. 
Season  and  boil  for  an  hour  and  add  half  a  pound  of 
pork  sliced.  When  the  beans  are  soft  fish  out  the 
pork,  mash  up  the  beans  with  a  billet  of  wood  or  a 
bottle,  and  return  the  pork.  Boil  another  quarter 
or  half  an  hour.  It  burns  easily  unless  stirred 
often. 

Pea  Soup  (from  split  peas)  is  made  in  the  same 
way  as  bean  soup,  but  with  more  water,  as  it  thickens 
quickly.  It  burns  even  more  easily  than  bean  soup. 

Turtle  Soup.  Prepare  the  meat  as  directed  above, 
season,  and  boil  slowly  for  half  an  hour.  A  little  rice 


Cookery  143 

may  be  used  if  desired.  A  dash  of  brandy  helps  the 
flavour. 

Oatmeal  and  Cornmeal  Gruels  consist  merely  in 
porridge  thinned  to  the  consistency  of  thick  soup. 

Broth  is  a  staple  luxury  of  the  woods.  It  is  all- 
comprehensive,  being  composed  of  every  toothsome 
ingredient  that  can  be  got  into  the  kettle,  but  the 
chief  element  is  a  piece  of  some  kind  of  lean  fresh 
meat  cut  into  junks  about  the  size  of  an  egg,  which 
are  put  into  the  biggest  kettle  rilled  with  cold  water 
and  allowed  to  simmer  over  the  fire.  When  the 
raw  meat  is  nearly  cooked  any  left-over  cooked  meat 
may  be  added.  When  the  meat  shows  signs  of  drop- 
ping to  pieces  add  any  vegetables,  cut  up,  that  may 
be  on  hand,  as  well  as  a  little  rice  (in  fact  "  any  old 
thing"),  and  season.  Paprika  adds  character.  Skim 
off  any  grease  that  rises.  Boil  long  and  eat  hot. 
Broth  offers  the  sylvan  cook  the  opportunity  of  his 
life,  for  the  limits  of  its  variety  have  not  yet  been 
discovered. 

Fish 

Needless  to  say,  fish  are  best  when  they  are 
freshest,  though  a  few  hours  make  no  appreciable 
difference.  To  dress  scaly  fish,  hold  by  the  head  and 
scale  to  tail  on  each  side.  Head,  side  and  belly  fins 
can  be  cut  off  at  a  stroke.  Make  cuts  on  each  side 
of  the  back-fin  and  take  this  out.  Trout,  if  small, 
are  cleaned  by  severing  head  and  gills  and  pulling 
them  and  the  entrails  all  out  together.  Trout  are 
scraped  of  slime.  Heads  and  tails  of  small  trout  are 
left  on.  A  slit  down  the  belly  will  lay  bare  the 
entrails  of  large  fish.  Wash  and  salt.  A  Marble  fish- 
knife  is  a  boon  if  many  fish  are  in  prospect. 


144  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Boiled:  If  camping  in  a  district  where  salmon,  lake 
trout,  and  other  large  fish  may  be  reckoned  upon,  a 
napkin  or  other  piece  of  cloth  should  always  be 
taken  along  to  pin  the  fish  in  when  boiling,  else  it  will 
go  to  pieces  in  the  kettle.  Clean  and  cut  off  head, 
tail,  and  fins.  Either  whole  fish  or  pieces  of  two  or 
three  pounds'  weight  may  be  used,  pinned  up  in  the 
cloth.  Double  the  whole  fish  up  if  too  large  for  the 
kettle.  Most  people  prefer  to  place  a  small  piece  of 
pork  inside  the  napkin.  Cover  with  well  salted 
boiling  water  and  boil  slowly  until  done.  Eat  with 
butter  or  fish  sauce  (see  below). 

Broiled:  Clean  and  open  down  the  back.  Heads, 
tails,  and  fins  of  small  trout  need  not  be  removed. 
Place  in  the  broiler  with  a  slice  of  pork  or  bacon 
across  each  half.  Do  not  broil  too  long  or  the  fish 
will  lose  its  flavour,  dry  up,  and  harden.  Guides  gene- 
rally commit  this  fault. 

Roasted:  Clean  a  small  fish,  thrust  a  piece  of  bacon 
or  pork  into  the  belly  cavity,  salt  on  the  outside, 
and  impale  upon  a  forked  stick,  which  is  then  stuck 
in  the  ground  near  the  coals  and  turned  occasionally, 
or  the  toaster  is  cut  longer  and  held  in  the  cook's 
hand.  As  this  can  only  be  done  with  one  fish  at  a 
time,  it  is  usual  for  each  camper  to  roast  his  own 
fish.  There  is  no  better  way  of  cooking  trout  and 
some  other  fish  than  this,  as  all  the  juices  and  the 
flavour  are  perfectly  preserved.  It  is  even  better,  with 
trout  and  other  delicate  fish,  to  roast  without  pork 
or  bacon,  in  order  to  preserve  the  true  flavour.  In 
this  case  the  fish  must  be  well  salted  inside  and  out. 
Larger  fish  may  be  split  down  the  back  and  roasted 
on  triple-pronged  toasters  cut  from  shrubs. 

Skewered:   Skewer  a  half-dozen  small   fish    and    as 


Cookery  145 

many  pieces  of  bacon  or  pork,  alternately,  sandwich 
fashion,  upon  a  stick,  and  roast. 

Planked:  This  is  advantageous  only  with  flat  fish, 
like  sunfish,  though  any  kind  may  be  planked.  Clean, 
split  up  the  back,  and  tack  with  wooden  pins  upon 
a  flat  piece  of  wood  or  bark,  tacking  slices  of  bacon 
or  pork  over  the  upper  part  of  the  fish  as  it  is  stretched 
on  the  plank,  which  may  be  sharpened  and  thrust 
into  the  ground  before  the  coals  or  merely  propped 
up  before  them. 

Fried:  Sever  backbone  in  several  places  to  prevent 
curling  up  in  the  pan.  Fish  are  lightly  rolled  in 
cornmeal  and  fried  with  sliced  pork  or  bacon.  The 
tendency  is  to  fry  too  long,  thus  destroying  the 
flavour.  However,  if  the  fish  are  very  small,  they 
may  be  fried  crisp,  like  whitebait.  In  this  case  the 
heads  of  small  trout  are  not  removed.  If  no  meal 
is  available,  dry  crumbs  will  do  as  well.  A  drop  of 
lemon  juice  brings  out  the  flavour. 

Scalloped:  This  has  a  rather  " citified'*  sound  and 
takes  some  time,  but  may  be  easily  tried  for  a  change 
when  time  is  no  object  and  you  have  eaten  your  fish 
for  days  in  every  other  conceivable  way.  Boil 
four  pounds  of  fish  until  it  flakes.  Prepare  a  sauce 
as  follows:  Melt  a  piece  of  butter,  size  of  egg,  add 
spoonful  flour;  stir  until  smooth;  do  not  brown. 
Add  2  cups  water,  in  which  have  been  dissolved 
6  large  spoonfuls  evaporated  milk,  \  teaspoonful 
salt,  and  a  little  pepper;  stir  until  it  boils.  Place 
fish  in  pan  in  reflector,  cover  with  the  sauce,  and 
brown.  . 

Baking  in  Clay:  First  find  your  clay,  and  there'  s 
the  rub,  for  the  proper  stuff  is  very,  very,  rare.  The 
fish  need  not  be  cleaned  in  any  way,  but  is  salted  and 


146  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

filled  with  bacon,  covered  completely  with  the  clay, 
and  buried  in  the  hot  coals  of  the  fire,  where  it  may 
remain,  if  about  a  pound  in  weight,  for  f  of  an  hour; 
if  anything,  less.  Break  the  clay  and  the  fish  is 
supposed  to  fall  out  ready  for  eating,  leaving  his 
fins  and  hide  adhering  to  the  clay.  The  entrails 
will  be  but  a  hard  mass  and  may  be  dropped  put, 
like  a  bullet.  I  have  tried  this  often,  but,  for  want 
of  good  clay  or  this  or  that,  never  had  much  luck. 
More  to  be  recommended  is 

Steaming  in  the  Coals:  Draw  the  fish  without 
removing  head  or  fins,  salt  well,  and,  if  desired,  fill 
with  pork  or  bacon.  Wrap  it  in  several  layers  of 
large  leaves  previously  dipped  in  water  and  lay  in 
the  hot  coals  until  done.  The  time  necessary  for  this 
is  hard  to  judge  and  must  be  learned  by  experience. 
However,  there  is  a  good  deal  of  leeway  before  the 
fish  is  overdone,  as  the  steam  keeps  it  from  drying  up. 
On  taking  from  the  fire  remove  the  leaves  and  serve. 
If  you  hit  it  just  right  you  will  taste  the  most  delicate 
fish  that  you  ever  put  into  your  mouth. 

I  am  so  fond  of  steamed  trout  that  I  never  fail  to 
take  with  me  a  dozen  sheets  of  parchment  paper  (the 
kind  in  which  butter  is  sold)  in  which  to  wrap  my 
fish,  as  it  is  often  difficult  to  find  leaves  large  enough 
in  the  north  woods.  Any  kind  of  paper  will  do. 
After  wrapping  up,  the  bundle  should  be  doused 
several  times  in  water.  "Steam-baked"  trout  are 
the  ne  plus  ultra  of  woods  cookery. 

Chowder:  Cut  the  fish  into  pieces  not  larger  than 
two  inches  square,  removing  all  the  bones  -possible. 
Guides  leave  most  of  them  in,  but  it  will  pay  in  the 
end  to  cut  away  even  the  ribs  from  trout,  as  they 
are  very  bothersome.  Cover  the  bottom  of  the  kettle 


Cookery  147 

with  layers  in  the  following  order :  slices  of  pork, 
sliced  raw  potatoes,  chopped  onions,  fish,  hard 
biscuit  soaked  (or  bread).  Repeat  this  (leaving 
out  pork)  until  the  pot  is  nearly  full.  Season  each 
layer.  Cover  barely  with  water  and  cook  an  hour 
or  so  over  a  very  slow  fire.  When  thick  stir  gently. 
Any  other  ingredients  that  are  at  hand  may  be  added 
when  the  chowder  is  building.  (From " Seneca's" 
Canoe  and  Camp  Cookery.) 

Another  Chowder:  Prepare  fish  as  above.  Boil  in 
plenty  of  salted  water  three  sliced  raw  potatoes,  three 
chopped  onions,  a  large  spoonful  of  rice,  and  a  little 
paprika  (half  cup  Julienne  if  available)  for  half  an 
hour.  Then  add  the  fish  and  half  a  cup  of  diced 
pork  and  boil  until  done.  Guides  prefer  more  pork. 

Sauces.  White  Sauce  for  Boiled  Fish:  Melt  slowly 
in  pan  piece  of  butter  size  of  an  egg  and  stir  in  thor- 
oughly one  heaping  dessert-spoonful  of  flour  until 
smooth ;  add  £  teaspoonful  salt,  a  little  pepper.  Make 
a  cup  of  milk  with  hot  water  and  Peerless  Milk  or 
2  dessert-spoonfuls  milk- powder.  Mix  well  while 
boiling. 

Another.  Put  2  tablespoonfuls  butter  and  same 
of  flour  into  a  hot  pan  and  mix  into  a  smooth  paste 
over  the  fire.  Pour  over  them  a  pint  of  hot  water 
(best  is  that  in  which  the  fish  has  been  boiled)  and 
stir  in  well.  Boil  up  once  and  season.  A  few  drops 
of  lemon  may  be  added.  (''Seneca.") 

Mustard  Sauce  (best  for  coarse  fish):  Melt  butter 
size  of  large  egg  in  pan  and  stir  in  i  tablespoonful 
flour  and  half  teaspoonful  mustard.  Boil  up  once 
and  season. 

Sweets 

Most   campers   are   satisfied   to    accept   flapjacks, 


148  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

fried  mush  and  molasses  or  syrup,  and  stewed  fruit 
as  full  value  for  all  sweets ;  but  occasionally  a  fit  of 
ambition  attacks  a  cook  to  do  something  out  of  the 
ordinary,  in  which  case  he  may  work  it  off  on  one  of 
the  following  recipes. 

Baked  Rice  Pudding.  Boil  a  pint  of  rice  ten  minutes, 
then  add  a  quart  of  ' 'milk- water "  (made  of  Peerless 
or  dried  milk),  salt,  a  cup  of  sugar,  and  (if  available) 
a  pinch  of  cinnamon  or  nutmeg.  Stir  up  and  put 
into  a  greased  deep  tin  pan  or  the  kettle.  Bake 
carefully  in  the  fire  until  well  browned  (an  hour  or 
more  according  to  the  fire,  which  should  not  be  too 
hot). 

Boiled  Fruit  Pudding.  Add  to  ordinary  biscuit 
dough  half  a  cup  of  sugar  and  roll  out  to  a  thickness 
of  not  over  a  quarter  inch.  Place  the  fruit  (stewed 
apples,  peaches,  apricots,  or  prunes,  etc.)  in  the 
centre  and  roll  up  tight  in  a  cloth.  Place  in  boiling 
water  and  cook  half  an  hour.  Serve  with 

Brandy  Sauce.  Melt  together  butter  half  size  of 
egg,  half  cup  sugar,  and  stir  in  teaspoonful  flour  and 
pinch  of  salt.  When  smooth  add  two  cups  boiling 
water  (little  less  than  two  lumbermen's  tin  cups)  and 
boil  five  minutes.  Take  off  and  add  a  large  spoonful 
of  "something  strong,"  brandy  preferred  (A.  &  F.). 
The  sauce  is  very  good  without  any  spirits. 

If  the  camp  boasts  a  deep  tin  baking-dish  or  some 
dish  that  will  do  as  well,  the  cook  may  try  a 

Baked  Fruit  Pudding.  Dough  as  for  biscuit  with 
half  a  cup  of  sugar  added.  Roll  out  thin  (J-  inch), 
and  line  the  inside  of  the  greased  tin.  On  bottom 
put  thick  layer  of  fruit  (apples  best)  sprinkled  with 
sugar  (and  cinnamon  if  on  hand),  then  another 
similar  layer,  and  so  on  until  the  dish  is  full,  putting 


Cookery  149 

small  pieces  of  butter  on  the  top  layer  over  the  sugar, 
and  wetting  down  with  a  little  water.  Sprinkle  all 
lightly  with  flour  and  cover  all  with  the  rest  of  the 
rolled  out  dough,  crimping  down  the  edges  to  join 
the  inside  lining  of  dough.  Make  three  short  cuts 
through  the  top  with  a  sharp  knife  for  air-holes  and 
set  in  hot  ashes  (but  not  too  hot).  In  about  an  hour 
it  should  be  done.  A  fork  thrust  in  will  tell.  Brandy 
sauce  will  improve  it.  I  have  often  made  this  pud- 
ding in  the  pan  of  the  baker,  with  a  single  layer  of 
fruit. 

Baked  Fruit  Dumplings  (can  be  baked  in  re- 
flector). Make  the  sugared  dough,  roll  out,  and 
cut  into  disks  about  6  inches  in  diameter.  Place 
a  suitable  quantity  of  fruit  (stewed  dried  apples 
best  if  no  fresh  ones)  in  the  middle  of  one,  lay  a 
second  on  top,  and  crimp  down  the  edges  all  round. 
When  ready  place  dumplings  in  the  baker-pan  and 
bake  like  biscuits.  Brandy  sauce. 


CHAPTER  IX 

MAKING    CAMP 

IF  the  journey  leads  through  country  known  to 
one  of  the  party  it  will  be  possible  to  stop  at  regular 
camping  places,  as  these  are  likely  to  be  found  at 
convenient  distances  along  the  route.  If,  however, 
another  party  has  camped  on  such  a  spot  only  a 
short  time  before,  it  is  well  to  avoid  it  or  camp  at 
some  distance  to  one  side,  for  the  first-comers  will 
have  been  remarkable  people  if  they  have  not  left 
garbage  enough  about  to  attract  swarms  of  flies. 
The  chief  advantage  of  old  camp-grounds  is  that 
in  all  probability  there  are  good  water  and  plenty 
of  wood  at  hand,  the  two  chief  requisites  of  the 
camper  outside  his  shelter.  If  the  country  is  un- 
familiar and  time  does  not  press  it  is  well  to  be  on  the 
lookout  for  a  good  camp-ground  not  too  late  in  the 
afternoon,  so  as  to  have  at  least  two  hours  to  make 
camp  before  dark.  If  you  see  a  comparatively  open 
place  with  some  level  ground,  if  possible  not  too  close 
to  the  water,  but  in  the  neighbourhood  of  some  good 
fishing-ground,  disembark  there  and  have  a  look  over 
it.  In  the  north  woods  one  must  not  be  too  fastidious. 
Ideal  camping  places,  especially  in  regard  to  smooth 
open  ground,  are  too  often  few  and  far  between,  and 
it  is  frequently  necessary  to  manufacture  a  tenting 
ground  by  hewing  and  clearing  and  pulling,  This 

150 


Making  Camp  151 

is  not  the  least  interesting  part  of  camping,  and 
many  of  the  camp-grounds  to  which  I  have  become 
most  attached  were  nothing  more  than  tangles  of 
underbrush  when  we  first  attacked  them  with  our 
axes.  A  good  landing  place  for  the  canoes  is  a  great 
advantage,  the  best  being  a  flat  rock  or  bank  with 
fifteen  inches  or  more  of  water  immediately  in  front, 
so  that  the  canoe  may  be  brought  side-on  to  the  shore. 
It  is  a  general  maxim  that  mosquitoes  are  more 
troublesome  on  low  swampy  ground  and  near  the 
water  than  higher  up,  but  the  north  woods  insects 
are  not  slaves  to  rules  laid  down  in  books  and  they 
will  be  on  hand  wherever  the  camp  is  situated.  The 
tent  should  be  pitched  some  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  water  and  on  such  ground  that,  in  case  of  rain, 
no  water  will  run  into  the  tent.  If  necessary  shallow 
trenches  may  be  dug  on  the  dangerous  sides. 

Having  chosen  the  camp-ground  the  party,  if 
consisting  of  four  or  more,  may  be  divided  into  two 
squads,  one  of  which  proceeds  to  clear  Temporary 
the  ground  and  pitch  the  tents,  while  the  Camps 
other  "rustles"  wood  and  makes  the  fire.  If  there 
are  but  two  persons  they  will  do  better  to  work  to- 
gether, at  least  at  first,  unless  the  weather  is  fine 
and  there  is  plenty  of  time,  in  which  case  they  may 
divide  the  labour  as  between  the  squads  above  men- 
tioned until  the  time  comes  to  put  up  the  tent.  The 
space  to  be  enclosed  by  the  canvas  walls  should  be 
cleared  with  the  hatchet  of  all  growth  that  cannot 
be  pulled  up  with  the  hands,  care  being  taken  not  to 
leave  any  sharp  shrub-stumps  standing  that  will 
cause  discomfort  and  puncture  the  poncho  or  rubber 
bed.  If  the  ground  is  soaked  a  fire  may  be  made 


152  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

on  the  site  and  left  burning  for  an  hour  or  more. 
Then  put  out  thoroughly.  The  tent  should  stand 
so  that  the  wind  will  not  blow  into  it  or  the  camp-fire 
will  soon  smoke  you  out.  A  pleasant  view  is  a  boon 
if  the  wind  will  allow.  If  there  are  two  tents  they 
should  be  pitched  opposite  each  other  at  such  an 
angle  to  the  wind  that  it  will  blow  through  the  lane 
between  them,  which  must  be  wide  enough  to  allow 
of  a  big  camp-fire.  Look  about  for  any  dead  or 
weakly  trees  that  might  be  blown  down  upon  the 
tents  by  a  gale.  If  any  suspicious  ones  are  found 
fell  them. 

More  than  two  men  are  in  the  way  unless  the  tent 
Pitching  a  is  a  monster.  Cut  the  following  poles 
Wall-tent  and  stakes  (for  a  ;J  x  9  tent): 

Ridge-pole,  straight,  10  feet  long. 

Two  front  poles,  forked,  about  10  feet  long. 

Back  pole,  forked,  about  8  feet  long. 

Two  side  poles,  light,  plain,  8  feet  long. 

Four  strong  stakes,  3  or  4  feet  long. 

The  canvas  is  brought  to  the  spot  and  the  ridge- 
pole run  through  the  holes  in  front  and  back.  If  the 
tent  is  up-to-date  it  will  be  provided  with  sleeves 
about  six  inches  long  extending  from  the  top  holes 
and  bound  to  the  ridge-pole  with  their  own  strings. 
These  sleeves  prevent  insects  from  entering  the  tent 
at  those  points.  The  back  forked  pole  is  then  driven 
perpendicularly  into  the  earth  and  the  ridge-pole 
laid  across  it.  In  front  the  two  longer  forked  poles 
are  driven  into  the  earth,  one  at  each  side,  and  crossed 
at  the  forks,  over  which  the  fore  end  of  the  ridge- 
pole is  laid,  the  three  poles  being  lashed  together. 
The  four  stakes  are  then  driven  firmly  into  the  earth, 


Making  Camp  153 

each  about  a  yard  from  one  of  the  tent  corners,  and 
the  corner  guy-ropes  attached  to  them.  The  tent  is 
then  firmly  pitched,  but  the  other  guy-ropes  must  be 
made  taut  so  that  the  canvas  is  well  stretched.  This 
is  done,  not  by  staking  down  each  rope,  but  by  laying 
one  of  the  side  poles  on  each  side  in  the  angle  made 
by  the  corner  stakes  and  their  guy-ropes,  and  lashing 
the  other  guy-ropes  to  the  side  pole.  If  necessary 
the  side  poles  may  be  lashed  to  the  corner  stakes. 
This  in  my  experience  is  all  that  is  needed,  for  unless 
there  is  a  very  gale  blowing  I  never  use  tent  pins 
with  tents  that  are  provided  with  sod-cloths  inside, 
upon  which  stones,  poles,  or  extra  duffle  may  be  laid, 
thus  pinning  down  the  bottom  of  the  tent.  Tent- 
pins  may  be  used  of  course  if  thought  necessary. 
The  above  may  seem  a  complicated  way  of  pitching 
a  tent,  but  in  practice  it  is  the  very  reverse.  Fifteen 
minutes  are  sufficient  to  cut  and  trim  the  poles.  Once 
up  the  tent  is  there  "for  keeps. "  The  two  fore  poles 
need  not  be  forked,  as  they  are  lashed  with  the  ridge- 
pole. In  the  camp  shown  in  our  frontispiece  it  will 
be  seen  that  we  used  two  canoe  setting-poles. 

Of  course  the  great  advantage  of  the  crossed  poles 
in  front  over  the  old  method  is,  that  there  is  no  per- 
pendicular upright  in  front  to  bar  entrance  to  the 
tent  door. 

I  could  never  see  the  use  of  guys  for  wilderness 
tents;  it  is  easier  to  take  a  turn  round  the  stake. 

The  important  thing  in  pitching  a  tent  in  this 
manner  is  to  have  the  corner  stakes  properly  placed 
in  order  that  the  tent  shall  be  straight.  Pitching 
Most  old  woodsmen  are  somewhat  careless  A-Tents 
about  pitching  tents  and  get  them  up  anyhow,  but 


i54  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

a  little  care  and  a  straight  eye  will  make  a  good  job 
of  it  with  little  bother.  Wall-tents  are  rather  heavy 
for  rope-ridges,  which,  however,  are  generally  at- 
tached to  A-tents,  sewed  along  the  ridge  with  a 
loop  or  extra  rope  projecting  at  each  end,  the  rope 
being  stretched  between  two  convenient  trees,  or 
one  tree  and  two  forked  poles  crossed,  the  end  of  the 
rope  being  fastened  to  a  stake.  Where  no  trees  are 
available  the  crossed  poles  may  be  used  at  each  end. 
If  the  tent  is  suspended  between  two  trees  it  will  sag 
and  must  be  braced  up  by  placing  forked  poles  under 
the  rope  at  each  end  and  near  the  tent-corners. 
A-tents  may  also  be  pitched  with  poles,  like  the  wall- 
tent,  and  I  for  one  prefer  that  manner,  as  the  tent  is 
stiffer  when  so  pitched.  Tent-pins  are  necessary, 
and  they  should  be  stout. 

Cut  two  forked  poles  and  a  ridge-pole  which  is  laid 
across  them.  The  dimensions  should  fit  the  tent. 
Pitching  a  The  top  of  the  tent  is  tied  to  the  ridge- 
Lean-to  pole  by  the  ropes  provided  for  that  purpose 
at  regular  intervals,  the  pole  being  under  the  canvas. 
The  tent,  if  up  to  date,  will  have  a  front  which  may 
be  rolled  up  out  of  the  way,  or  thrown  back  over  the 
tent,  or  staked  out  in  front  as  a  portico.  The  three 
poles  are  braced  in  front  by  two  guy-ropes,  one  at 
each  corner.  At  the  back  a  stout  stake  is  driven  at 
each  corner  and  the  corner  ropes  attached  thereto. 
A  pole  is  then  laid  from  stake  to  stake  (outside  and 
underneath)  and  the  remaining  guy-ropes  tied  to  it. 
The  tent  should  have  a  sod-cloth,  which  will  render 
pinning  down  unnecessary,  but  this  may  be  done  at 
two  or  three  points  at  back  and  sides.  Our  frontis- 
piece shows  a  lean-to  tent  with  front  rolled  up. 


Making  Camp  155 

A  lean-to  should  be  pitched  with  particular  at- 
tention to  the  direction  of  the  wind,  so  that  smoke 
and  eventual  rain  will  not  enter.  On  the  ground  from 
pole  to  pole  in  front  a  small  log  should  be  laid.  (See 
frontispiece.) 

For  the  present  we  will  ignore  the  labours  of  the 
cook  and  wood-cutter,  and  proceed  to  "fix  up"  our 
tents. 

Preparing  the  beds  is  a  task  too  often  left  until 
dusk,  especially  when  blankets  are  used  and  some 

kind  of  a  mattress  must  be  improvised. 

mi  1  -^11-  £    j  1  Bed-making 

The  popular  one  is  the  browse  bed,  and 

its  aromatic  elasticity  has  inspired  a  whole  poetic 
literature  of  its  own.  Now  the  truth  about  browse 
beds  is  that,  if  well  made,  they  are  good,  nay,  more, 
they  are  delicious.  But  a  carelessly  made  one  is  hard 
and  humpy,  and  most  are  of  this  description,  for  the 
reason  that  the  right  kind  is  not  made  in  a  few  minutes 
but  in  thirty  at  least.  The  best  material  is  the  balsam 
fir,  on  account  of  its  delicious  and  wholesome  odour 
and  the  resiliency  of  its  boughs.  Hemlock  and  spruce 
come  next  in  the  order  of  fitness.  Fell  and  drag  a 
couple  of  thick  young  trees  to  camp  and  lop  off  the 
fans,  the  more  the  better.  It  is  immaterial  whether 
you  begin  to  lay  the  bed  at  foot  or  head,  but  for  the 
sake  of  convenience  the  head  is  the  better,  as  then 
you  back  gradually  out  of  camp.  You  therefore  lay 
a  thick  row  of  fans  at  the  back  of  the  tent,  butts 
towards  the  door  and  convex  side  up.  Stick  them 
in  almost  perpendicularly  and  bend  them  over:  the 
idea  is  to  get  springiness.  Lay  the  next  row  six 
inches  below  the  first,  i.e.,  thrusting  in  the  butts 
that  distance  from  those  of  the  first  layer.  Proceed 


1 56  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

on  this  plan  until  the  whole  ground  is  covered  with  a 
thick,  smooth,  springy  mattress,  paying  particular 
attention  to  the  rows  that  will  come  under  the  hips. 
Over  this  bed  spread  the  tarpaulin  or  rubber  blanket 
or  ponchos,  and  lay  the  blankets  or  sleeping-bags  over 
all.  The  trouble  with  many  browse  beds  is  that  the 
evergreen  fans  are  merely  strewn  over  the  earth  and 
not  thrust  into  it;  they  therefore  flatten  out  hard  at 
once.  The  best  browse  bed  will  harden  in  two  or 
three  nights  and  must  then  be  remade,  some  of  the 
fans  being  renewed.  If  one  cares  to  take  particular 
trouble  a  layer  of  thick  moss  may  be  put  down  under 
the  fans  to  add  softness.  In  semi-civilised  districts 
meadow-hay  stacks  may  be  borrowed  from  with 
advantage. 

Another  mattress  is  made  of  a  portable  empty 
bed-tick  about  6J  feet  long  and  2\  wide,  which  is 

filled  in  camp  with  browse,  grass,  leaves, 
Bed-tick  -11-1    j    .ca 

or  any  available  dume. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  stretchers,  both  of  stout 
canvas,  preferably  brown.  One  is  of  a  single  thick- 
Stretcher  ness  with  pockets  at  the  sides  for  poles; 
Beds  the  other  is  double  so  that  it  can  be  filled 

with  browse,  hay,  or  leaves,  and  is  therefore  to  be  pre- 
ferred, being  softer  and  much  warmer,  as  the  single 
stretcher  makes  a  cold  mattress.  The  method  of  use 
is  as  follows:  logs  six  inches  in  diameter  are  laid  at 
head  and  foot  and  slightly  levelled  on  top.  Stout 
poles,  flattened  at  the  ends,  are  thrust  through  the 
pockets  of  the  stretcher  and  nailed  to  the  logs.  The 
poles  must  be  springy  but  stout  enough  to  keep  the 


Making  Lamp 


sleeper  from  sagging  to  the  ground.  On  breaking 
camp  the  nails  are  withdrawn  and  preserved.  If  the 
logs  prove  too  low  flat  stones  may  be  placed  under 
them.  Some  lay  the  poles  in  grooves,  cut  in  the  logs 
or  over  forked  stakes,  but  these  methods  are  not 
conducive  to  the  proper  rigidity  of  the 
poles,  which  is  needed  to  keep  taut  the 
canvas.  This  must  be  of  the  stoutest 
variety,  or  it  will  speedily  lose  shape 
when  used  for  this  purpose.  A  sheep- 
skin makes  a  warm  bed  of  a  stretcher, 
which  is  then  pretty  nearly  ideal, 
though  somewhat  difficult  to  put  up. 
For  permanent  camps  there  is  nothing 
better. 

Of  course  those  fortunate  persons 
who  use  air  mattresses  need  not 
bother  themselves  with  all  these  bed- 
making  problems.  (See  Sleeping-bags 
under  Personal  Outfit.) 

A  line  may  be  stretched  under  the 
ridge-pole  from  which  to  hang  articles 
of  clothing,  etc.  Forked  Tent-fur- 
sticks  may  be  set  up  along  nishings 
the  sides  of  the  tent  to  lay  guns  and 
rods  on,  though,  if  the  tent  has  a 
sod-cloth,  as  it  should,  they  may  be 
laid  on  that,  as  the  cloth  is  waterproof  and  the  weight 
will  help  make  the  tent  tight.  If  mosquito-bars 
are  in  the  kit  get  them  out  and  fasten  them  up. 
Place  every  man's  knapsack  or  other  personal  bag 
at  the  head  of  his  bed.  Clear  the  space  in  front  of 
the  tent  of  underbrush. 


FIG. 27. — 

Candlestick  of 
Bark  and  Split 
Stick. 


158  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Having  made  the  tent  habitable,  proceed  to  put 
up  the  dining  or  provision  fly,  which  is  either  brought 
Dining-fly  a^on^  separate  or  improvised  out  of  un- 
used ponchos  and  rubber  blankets,  thrown 
over  a  framework  of  poles,  and  secured  with  marline. 
(See  full-page  picture  facing  page  70.) 

No  furniture  is  admissible  in  temporary  camps, 
unless  an  exception  be  made  in  favour  of  a  light 
folding  table,  or  a  roll-up  table-top,  such  as  may  be 
had  of  a  dealer,  but  the  latter  costs  $2  and  is  too 
small  to  be  of  much  use  (2x3  ft.)  If  carried  a 
frame  of  forked  sticks  may  be  constructed  for  it. 

Meantime  the  cook  and  wood-cutter  have  been 
busy.  The  north  country  produces  hard  and  soft 
Firewood  wo°ds,  the  former  being  generally  con- 
sidered exclusively  suited  to  making  fires, 
as  they  burn  slowly  and  give  lasting  coals,  while  soft 
woods  burn  out  rapidly  and  are  apt  to  spark,  en- 
dangering the  tents  and  the  forest.  The  best  north 
country  firewoods  are,  approximately,  in  the  order 
of  excellence,  hickory,  the  oaks,  ash,  black  and 
yellow  birch,  maple,  beech,  white  birch,  etc.  Dry 
pine  among  the  soft  woods  is  much  prized,  especially 
in  wet  weather.  It  may  here  be  remarked  that  the 
birches  and  maples  are  sometimes  called  soft  woods 
in  the  north.  The  regular  soft  woods  are  used  only 
in  emergencies.  Dry  bark,  especially  that  of  hemlock, 
makes  a  quick,  hot  fire  and  is  therefore  liked  for 
cooking.  Driftwood  is  generally  soft  and  therefore 
good  only  to  start  fires  with.  Green  wood  burns 
best  in  winter,  having  less  sap.  It  is  almost  ex- 
clusively used  at  all  seasons  for  camp-fires  that  are 
meant  to  last. 


o 

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Making  Lamp  159 

For  kindling,  the  forest  staple  is  white  birch-bark, 
the  woodsman's  friend,  which  will  ignite  even  when 
moist.  It  is  usually  to  be  found  everywhere,  but  I 
always  have  a  dry  piece  stuffed  in  somewhere  in  the 
kit;  it  may  save  time.  Pine  knots  are  wonderful 
to  start  a  fire  with. 

Our  axeman  fells  several  young  hardwood  trees 
as  near  camp  as  possible,  dresses  them,  and  hauls 
them  to  the  fireside,  where  they  are  cut  into  suitable 
lengths,  say  four  feet.  About  half  the  pieces  are 
then  split  in  two. 

The  cook  has  arranged  two  short  rows  of  stones, 
about  a  yard  apart,  the  larger  stones  at  the  back, 
ranging  in  size  towards  the  front.  The  Fire  lace 
gap  at  the  back  is  filled  either  with  one 
or  more  large  stones  or  a  big  green  log.  Between 
the  stones  the  cook  starts  his  fire. i  Having  prepared 
a  bundle  of  kindlings  of  dry  hardwood  and  dead 
branches,  he  lights  a  piece  of  birch-bark  and  adds 
the  kindlings  one  by  one  until  the  blaze  is  able-bodied 
enough  to  stand  larger  billets,  which  are  then  laid 
on,  followed  by  the  four-foot  pieces  which  are  laid 
across  the  stones.  The  camp-cranes  already  de- 
scribed are  then  cut  and  the  kettles  of  water  hung 
over  the  fire  ready  for  boiling.  When  the  small 
logs  burn  in  two  the  ends  are  shoved  into  the  fire 
and  other  pieces  are  laid  across,  always  horizontally. 
Woodsmen  never  build  a  fire  by  placing  the  wood 
at  right  angles,  as  most  amateurs  do.  (See  Getting 
Meals.)  Supper  is  soon  ready,  and  while  it  is  being 
discussed  a  kettle  of  fresh  water  is  heating  to  wash 
the  dishes  with.  The  stones  are  sometimes  dis- 

1  See  also  page  125  for  cookingfire. 


160  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

carded  in  favour  of  fire-dogs,  or  hand-junks,  of  wood. 
I  prefer  the  stones. 

When  the  eating  is  over  and  the  trip  to  the  neigh- 
bouring trout  pool  has  been  discussed,  the  cookee 
Cam  fires  Procee<^s  ^°  make  the  fire  for  the  night. 
He  begins  by  seeing  that  the  two  front 
corner  stones  are  of  such  a  size  that  any  logs  rolling 
down  from  behind  will  be  stopped  by  them  and  not 
keep  on  into  the  tent.  He  then  lays  as  many  of  the 
biggest  logs  across  the  stones  as  possible,  heaping 
them  up  behind,  and,  if  necessary,  driving  two  long 
stakes  at  the  back  to  lean  the  logs  upon.  As  the 
wood  in  the  middle  of  the  fire  burns  out  the  logs  will 
settle  down,  one  by  one,  and  thus  the  fire  will  keep 
for  many  hours  without  replenishing.  If  the  night 
is  likely  to  be  cold,  one  man  must  be  deputed  to  rise 
at  least  once  during  the  night  and  lay  more  logs  on. 
Very  likely  one  operation  of  this  kind  will  be  suffi- 
cient unless  it  rains. 

It  may  be  remarked  here  that  people  who  go  into 
the  woods  armed  only  with  pretty  little  pocket- 
hatchets  are  naturally  not  able  to  enjoy  a  camp- 
fire  that  is  a  camp-fire,  and  I  don't  know  that  they 
deserve  to. 

Look  about  for  two  things,  birch-bark  and  a  dead 
stump.  Split  the  latter  and  get  some  dry  wood  out 
Making  °^  tne  middle.  If  you  have  no  hatchet 
Fires  in  the  or  axe  with  you  hack  away  with  your 
Rain  knife  and  patience  will  be  rewarded.  Keep 

the  dry  wood  gained  under  your  coat  and  don't 
begin  your  fire  until  you  have  a  fair  supply,  enough 
to  withstand  the  wetness  of  the  wood  you  will  have 


Making  Camp  161 

to  feed  the  fire  with.  You  can  make  a  fire  without 
matches  in  the  rain — on  paper,  if  you  have  this,  that, 
and  the  other ;  really  you  can  do  it  once  in  a  thousand 
times.  Better  adhere  strictly  to  the  rule  never  to 
go  abroad  without  your  safety  match-box  well  filled 
with  wind-matches.  In  dry  weather  your  chances 
without  matches  are  a  little  better,  for  you  may  be 
able  to  use  the  crystal  of  your  watch  as  a  burning- 
glass  ;  or  you  may  combine  a  piece  of  punk  with  some 
lint  scraped  from  your  handkerchief  and  rub  it  in 
the  powder  taken  from  a  cartridge,  striking  a  spark 
into  it  from  flint  or  quartz  with  the  back  of  your 
knife.  These  things  sound  lovely  on  paper,  but 
belong  chiefly  to  the  boys'  story  department,  so  far 
as  their  utility  to  the  average  camper  is  concerned. 

When  there  is  no  camp-stove  the  fire  may  be  built 
against  a  ledge  of  rock,  or  a  wall  built  up  artificially. 
This  is  to  preserve  and  radiate  more  heat. 
The  wall  may  be  made  of  green  logs  if 
no  rocks  are  at  hand,  but  stone  is  far  better.  There 
is  an  Indian  saying:  "  White  man  make  big  fire — sit 
far  off;  Injun  make  little  fire — sit  cl°se« 
up ! "  This  custom  has  its  origin  no  doubt 
in  the  hunting  and  fighting  predilections  of  the 
Amerind,  who  did  not  care  to  betray  his  whereabouts 
to  his  enemies  or  his  game.  The  " Injun  fire"  is  made 
with  a  centre  nucleus,  from  which  the  rather  small 
sticks  radiate  and  are  shoved  into  the  middle  as  they 
burn  off.  It  is  all  right  when  you  want  to  lie  low, 
or  when  you  can't  make  any  other! 

When  a  stay  of  a  fortnight  or  more  is  projected, 
especially  if  the  camp-ground  is  within  easy  reach 


1 62  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

by  waggon  or  boat,  there  are  practically  no  limits 
to  the  comforts  that  may  be  planned.  The  tents 
Permanent  or  camps  may  be  provided  with  board  or 
Camps  plank  floors,  thus  securing  dryness  and 
cleanliness.  Camp  tables  and  chairs,  wall-pockets, 
hangers,  meat-safes,  patent  lighting-apparatus,  and  a 
magnificent  variety  of  edibles  may  be  taken  along. 
A  stone  or  plank  pier  may  be  built  for  the  canoes. 
A  chopping-block  may  be  set  up ;  a  store-shed  built ; 
and  every  member  of  the  party  is  welcome  to  bring 
what  Mr.  White  comically  calls  his  favourite  "patent 
dingbat. "  A  good-sized  table  should  be  built  upon 
cleated  uprights,  with  benches  of  halved  logs  on  each 
side  of  it. 

In  a  permanent  camp  discipline  is  more  important 
than  on  the  Wander schaft,  though  regularity  of 
Camp  duties  should  ever  obtain.  There  is  al- 

Discipline  ways  at  least  one  shiftless,  lazy  cuss  in 
camp  who  persists  in  leaving  the  axe  anywhere  and 
everywhere  and  other  articles  too,  and  who  throws 
garbage  and  empty  cans  all  over  the  place.  I  know 
one  wight  of  this  kind  who  was — partially — broken 
of  his  slovenly  habits  by  finding  such  things  as  he 
thus  left  lying  about  pushed  into  his  sleeping-bag, 
when  he  wearily  essayed  to  thrust  himself  between 
the  blankets.  He  was  left  out  of  the  next  party. 

There  should  be  a  special  dumping-place  for  tin 
cans  not  too  near  the  camp,  and  all  the  garbage 
that  can  be  burned  should  be  thrown  into  the  fire, 
that  best  scavenger  of  all. 


CHAPTER  X 

WOODCRAFT 

WOODCRAFT  is  the  "knowledge  and  skill  in  such 
things  as  belong  to  woodland  life  and  occupations," 
according  to  which  definition  our  whole  manual  is 
but  a  setting  forth  of  this  art.  But  among  woodsmen 
it  is  understood  to  be  particularly  the  faculty  of 
" being  at  home"  in  the  wilderness;  of  living  on 
intimate  terms  with  nature;  not  only  of  knowing  her 
inmost  secrets  but  also  how  to  use  those  secrets  for 
the  forest-dweller's  comfort  and  safety. 

It  is  very  evident  that  a  degree  in  such  an  art  can 
be  obtained  in  one  university  only,  the  school  of  the 
woods,  and  the  course  is  not  one  year  nor  two  but 
many.  No  manual  can  teach  it,  and  all  the  teacher 
can  do  is  to  point  out  its  main  features,  and  state 
a  few  of  the  problems  to  be  solved  and  the  best  way 
to  attack  them. 

Woodcraft  may  be  divided  into  two  parts,  first, 
ordinary  life  in  camp,  comprising  shooting  and  fishing ; 
and  secondly,  travelling.  It  is  for  the  most  part 
with  the  second  of  these  sections  that  we  have  to  do 
here,  and  under  it  fall  such  subjects  as  walking,  fol- 
lowing trails,  threading  the  pathless  wilderness, 
signs  of  direction  and  weather,  getting  lost,  and  the 
use  of  the  compass.  For  those  who  follow  beaten 
roads,  keeping  always  in  touch  with  civilisation  and 

163 


1 64  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

sticking  closely  to  their  canoes,  no  very  great  know- 
ledge of  woodcraft  is  necessary,  but  the  need  of  it 
increases  with  every  step  taken  from  one's  base  into 
the  wilderness,  and  the  supreme  test  of  it  comes  when 
one  reaches  regions  that  are  miles  from  any  trail 
and  unknown  to  the  traveller,  especially  should  he 
wander  from  his  chosen  path  and  have  to  bivouac 
for  a  night  or  two  before  attempting  to  find  camp 
or  companions  again. 

The  reason  why  a  tramp  througn  the  woods  does 
a  man  more  good  than  a  walk  the  whole  length  of 
w  „  .  Fifth  Avenue  is,  that  the  townsman  walks 
on  a  level,  in  consequence  of  which  only 
a  limited  number  of  muscles  are  used  to  any  extent, 
and  because  he  wears  heels,  upon  which  he  plants 
his  feet  solidly.  It  is  not  necessary  for  him  to  strive 
for  any  more  balance  than  will  keep  his  silk  hat  on 
straight.  With  the  woodsman,  however,  the  balance 
is  everything,  because  he  treads  a  very  uneven  road 
and  it  is  a  matter  of  importance  where  and  how  he 
puts  down  each  foot.  With  him  walking  is  a  move- 
ment that  necessarily  exercises  every  muscle  in  the 
body,  even  those  of  the  hands,  which  he  must  often 
use  to  preserve  his  balance  or  to  push  aside  ob- 
structing boughs.  His  limbs  are  in  a  perpetual 
state  of  readiness  to  move  in  any  conceivable  manner, 
as  the  exigencies  of  the  trail  may  dictate.  This 
and  the  absence  of  heels  (at  least  of  any  height)  give 
his  gait  a  certain  alert  looseness.  By  instinct  he 
knows  where  to  plant  his  feet,  avoiding  anything 
loose  or  slippery  and  seeking  the  solid  places.  If 
he  is  a  hunter  he  will  also  go  shy  of  all  sticks  that 
will  snap  and  rotten  logs  that  will  let  him  through 


Woodcraft  165 

with  a  crash.  His  gait  is  flat-footed;  he  feels  with  his 
toes ;  he  does  not  turn  his  toes  out ;  his  poise  is  more 
forward  than  that  of  the  plaster-walker.  Give  the 
latter  moccasins  and  a  couple  of  weeks  in  the  woods 
and  he  will  soon  gain  an  inkling  of  the  difference. 

Keep  the  feet  soft  by  frequent  ablutions.  Long 
walks  with  shoes  filled  with  water  are  bad,  as  the 
feet  easily  become  chafed.  Rather  wring  Foot 

the  stockings  out  once  in  a  while.  If  Hygiene 
unused  to  moccasins  bring  a  pair  of  light  straw  in- 
soles with  you,  or  cut  a  pair  out  of  birch-bark.  Have 
stockings  and  moccasins  fit  well;  any  folds  will 
speedily  chafe  the  feet  badly.  Bathe  sore  feet  at 
night  in  warm  water  and  apply  vaseline  or  tallow. 
If  not  well  in  the  morning,  coat  the  inside  of  the 
stockings,  as  well  as  the  feet,  with  soap  or  tallow. 
A  very  sore  spot  should  be  covered  with  a  piece  of 
surgeon's  plaster,  which  will  effectually  prevent 
chafing.  Blisters  should  be  threaded  through  and 
the  thread  cut  off  at  each  side  of  the  blister,  leaving 
a  piece  within  to  facilitate  the  escape  of  water;  cover 
with  a  vaselined  rag.  On  no  account  pull  any  skin 
off.  Don't  bring  corns  into  the  woods;  have  them 
removed  beforehand.  If  they  form  put  raw  pine 
pitch  on  them.  * 
t 

Following  a  trail  is  easy  so  long  as  the  path  is 
much- travelled,  but  requires  a  certain  knack  to  keep 
on  if  old  or  " blind,"  i.  e.,  badly  marked,  Following 
with  growth  undisturbed  by  cutting,  or  Trails 

freshly  grown  up.  Here  close  observation  is  neces- 
sary, to  discover  traces  of  former  travellers,  stunted 
growths,  chafed  or  scraped  logs,  grown-over  blazes, 


1 66  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

etc.  Most  old  trails  are  blazed  with  the  axe,  es- 
pecially those  that  are  much  used.  New  ones  are 
blazed  and  bushes  are  broken  down  over  the  path 
every  ten  or  twenty  feet,  the  broken  part  pointing 
in  the  direction  the  trailer  is  taking.  On  the  return 
he  has  but  to  follow  the  blazes  and  breaks.  Tote- 
roads,  logging-roads,  and  hunters'  trails  often  fork. 
When  you  pass  such  a  fork  place  a  stick  in  the  road 
pointing  to  the  right  direction.  When  breaking 
a  trail  for  yourself  through  unfamiliar  country  blaze 
it  like  the  old  ones.  Do  not  make  the  blazes  on  the 
side  of  the  trees  next  the  trail,  but  either  on  that 
facing  you  or  the  opposite  one.  On  the  side  facing 
you,  if  you  are  going  from  camp,  make  one  blaze,  on 
the  opposite  side  two  blazes.  Then  if  you  cross  the 
trail  anywhere  from  the  side  you  will  know  which 
direction  leads  to  camp.  This  rule,  however,  is 
more  honoured  in  the  breach  than  the  observance,  and 
must  not  be  blindly  relied  upon  when  old  trails 
are  followed,  as  most  woodsmen  blaze  merely  by 
taking  clips  at  the  nearest  side  of  the  trees  as  they 
goby. 

Never  start  out  to  traverse  an  unknown  part  of 
the  woods  without  observing  certain  old  but  proved 
In  the  path-  rules,  and,  though  exceptions  must  some- 
less  Wilder-  times  be  made,  let  them  be  far  between, 
ness  The  first  and  most  important  is  to  know 

at  very  least  the  direction  of  your  designed  destina- 
tion and  the  general  character  of  the  country  through 
which  you  must  pass.  If  possible  draw  a  rough 
plan  from  the  description  given  you,  and  talk  it 
over  with  your  informant.  Mark  in  your  mind  or 
on  the  plan  as  many  landmarks  as  you  can  hear  of, 


Woodcraft  167 

streams,  roads,  camps,  hardwood  ridges,  swamps, 
lakes,  etc. 

Secondly,  never,  unless  absolutely  necessary,  leave 
camp  on  such  a  journey  (if  at  all  long)  if  a  storm  is 
obviously  approaching.  One  gets  lost  sooner  in  bad 
weather,  especially  in  a  snowstorm,  and  it  is  no  joke 
to  bivouac  without  tent  or  blanket  in  searching  snow, 
rain,  or  even  wind. 

Thirdly,  invariably  carry  in  your  pocket  your  com- 
pass and  an  emergency  ration  (see  Personal  Outfit), 
and  sling  a  tin  cup  at  the  back  of  your  belt,  as  a  hot 
cup  of  bouillon,  tea,  or  whiskey  cheers  and  warms 
one  up  mightily.  If  slung  in  front  the  cup  will  be 
in  the  way  and  will  strike  against  bushes  and  your 
weapons,  making  a  racket.  A  good  knife  you  will 
always  have  with  you,  and  for  uncertain  journeys 
a  hatchet  in  a  belt-sheath  is  a  good  article  to  have 
in  case  of  bivouacking  in  the  open.  Your  salt-box 
and  full  waterproof  match-box  are  absolutely  in- 
dispensable, especially  the  latter,  as  the  Irishman 
might  say.  Ammunition,  and  possibly  a  few  yards 
of  fish-line  and  a  few  flies,  will  form  part  of  your  light 
burden.  In  case  your  chances  of  sleeping  in  the 
open  are  large,  a  small  tarpaulin  or  even  a  light 
blanket  may  be  carried  on  the  back. 

Fourthly,  never  start  out  on  any  journey  from 
camp,  i.  e.,  in  unfamiliar  country,  without  giving 
your  companions,  should  you  have  any,  an  idea 
where  you  are  going,  at  least  in  a  general  way.  Sig- 
nals may  be  agreed  upon.  The  old  distress  signal 
(little  observed,  however)  is  a  single  shot  followed, 
after  a  few  moments'  pause,  by  two  others  in  quick 
succession. 

When  you  cross  brooks  note  the  direction  in  which 


1 68  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

they  flow.  If  you  come  to  a  lake  and  wish  to  round 
Path-  it,  keep  fairly  close  to  the  bank,  after 

finding  first  noting  some  tree,  cove,  or  island  on 
the  other  side  from  which  you  wish  to  resume  your 
journey.  It  is  dangerous  to  try  short  cuts  by  devi- 
ating from  the  sight  of  the  water,  as  a  lake  may  have 
hidden  bays  and  a  stream  awkward  loops,  so  that 
you  may  be  led  straight  away  from  its  true  course, 
and  find  your  short  cut  the  longest  way  round. 
There  are  two  ways  of  reaching  a  given  unfamiliar 
point.  One  is  to  go  by  compass  or  sun  and  wind, 
and  the  other  to  follow  certain  natural  features  of 
the  landscape  that  have  been  described  to  you.  The 
Indians  combine  both,  their  innate  and  practised 
sense  of  direction  greatly  aiding  them. 

The  more  familiar  you  are  with  trees  the  lighter 
will  be  your  task,  for  trees  tell  the  woodsman  lots 
of  things.  The  natives,  too,  in  giving  directions, 
will  be  sure  to  refer  to  that  spruce  or  that  old  hack- 
matack. A  man  should  make  up  as  soon  as  possible 
for  the  weak  points  of  his  university  career  by  getting 
acquainted  with  trees,  shrubs,  and  berries,  as  well 
as  the  animals  and  birds  of  the  country.  The  tra- 
ditional fondness  of  the  Yankee  for  asking  questions 
will  come  in  handy  here,  and  the  guides  are  long- 
suffering;  in  fact  they  are  never  averse  to  showing 
their  knowledge.  Never  pass  an  unfamiliar  tree 
without  asking  your  companion  its  name,  and  the 
quality  of  its  wood.  All  that  kind  of  thing  makes 
for  good  woodcraft.  In  the  matter  of  landmarks 
choose  only  very  exceptional  features,  that  are  not 
likely  to  be  duplicated,  or  nearly  so.  After  you 
have  passed  a  landmark  look  back  at  it,  as  its  ap- 
pearance from  the  far  side  is  likely  to  be  quite  different. 


Woodcraft  169 

Whether  you  intend  returning  over  the  same  trail 
or  not,  blaze  a  tree  now  and  then;  it  may  be  of  help 
in  case  of  accident. 

The  "old  woodsman"  sniffs  with  contempt  at  the 
mention  of  a  compass,  and  certain  it  is  that  the  best 
trailers  in  the  world,  the  Indians,  did  not  How  to 
use  it,  and  even  to-day  hardly  ever  do  so.  If  Use  the 
you  have  a  watch  and  the  sun  shines  you  Compass 
have  a  compass  to  hand  (see  Personal  Out-fit  under 
Watch),  and  even  without  the  watch  the  sun  will 
tell  you  the  points  pretty  exactly.  There  follows 
too  another  argument:  without  a  compass  you  will 
strive  more  eagerly  to  read  the  signs  of  nature  and 
will  the  more  readily  become  a  woodsman.  Well 
and  good;  leave  your  compass  at  home  if  you  like, 
alongside  your  watch.  But  there  come  times  in 
the  forest,  especially  to  amateurs,  when  a  compass  is 
an  almighty  handy  article.  You  are  lost  or  nearly 
so,  and  the  sun  is  hidden  in  storm-clouds.  You  are 
nervous  and  tired,  and  apt  to  misread  the  natural 
signs  of  direction,  never  infallible  in  themselves. 
Let  us  say  (and  strongly  advise)  that  you  have  a 
compass  with  you.  But  it  will  be  of  no  value  unless 
you  know  how  to  use  it.  The  rules  are  very  simple. 
Having  made  up  your  mind  in  what  direction  you 
will  proceed  (Aha!),  hold  the  compass  in  both  hands 
at  half -arm's  length  (keep  your  rifle  and  hatchet 
out  of  the  way)  and  take  some  natural  feature  in 
the  correct  direction  as  indicated  by  the  compass. 
Go  straight  towards  this  landmark,  consulting  your 
compass  every  two  minutes  in  case  you  get  out  of 
sight  of  your  mark.  This  frequent  consultation  is 
the  most  important  point  in  the  use  of  the  compass, 


1 70  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

as  many  a  man  has  deviated  so  far  from  his  course 
by  a  neglect  of  it  as  to  doubt  the  accuracy  of  the 
compass  and  get  lost  in  earnest.  Do  not  quarrel 
with  your  compass;  in  fact  never  buy  one  in  which 
you  have  not  implicit  confidence.  If  some  natural 
feature  makes  a  detour  necessary,  note  some  land- 
mark that  is  big  enough  to  be  seen  from  any  direction, 
and  which  you  can  find  after  rounding  the  obstruction, 
be  it  lake,  ravine,  or  what  not.  You  can  then  start 
afresh. 

The  parenthetical  expletive  occurring  above  calls 
our  attention  to  the  one  weakness  of  the  compass, 
a  very  excusable  weakness:  it  cannot  tell  us  in  what 
direction  we  wish  to  go.  We  must  make  up  our 
minds  on  that  question  without  its  aid,  and  this 
indicates  how  all-important  it  is  to  know  at  least 
the  general  "lay  of  the  land, "  before  venturing 
into  unknown  tracts. 

The  first  is  the  sun,  which  rises  in  the  east  and  sets 
in  the  west,  or,  in  autumn  and  winter,  a  point  or  So 
Natural  to  the  south  of  east  and  west.  If  there- 
Direction  fore  in  September  the  sun  is  at  its  highest 
Signs  and  you  stand  back  to  it,  i.  e.,  so  that  it 

throws  a  shadow  directly  before  you,  it  is  evident  that 
you  are  looking  north.  The  other  points  follow  natur- 
ally. At  other  times  of  day,  except  sunrise  and  sunset, 
it  is  somewhat  more  difficult  to  judge  of  the  exact 
points  of  the  compass,  but  an  approximate  estimate 
is  always  possible.  On  cloudy  days  a  slight  shadow 
will  sometimes  be  cast  on  the  thumbnail,  or  other 
bright  surface,  by  a  sliver  held  upright  thereon; 
showing  about  the  sun's  direction.  The  next  help  is 
the  wind,  but  this  depends  upon  the  sun.  The  rule 


Woodcraft  171 

is  to  observe  the  direction  of  the  wind  at  sunrise 
or  soon  after,  and,  so  long  as  it  holds  true,  the  wind 
will  be  your  compass.  If  very 

./'.  r  NORTH  STA* 

light    its    direction    can    often  * 

be    determined    by   holding  up 
a  wetted  finger.      If   the    stars     *  * 
are  out  the  North  Star  is  easily  •      ^ 

found  by  following  the  direction  * 

of  the  two   lowest  stars    com- 
posing "The  Dipper"   ("The  Great  Bear").     (See 
illustration.) 

There  are  several  old  rules  anent  trees  that  are 
generally  true,  though  subject  to  many  exceptions, 
for  which  reason  the  traveller  will  do  well  to  take  note 
of  them,  but  not  to  trust  them  absolutely  if  uncorrob- 
orated by  other  evidence.  The  oldest  says  that  the 
tips  of  evergreen  trees  (in  our  north  woods)  generally 
point  towards  the  north.  Another  has  it  that  the 
bark  of  well-grown  trees  is  thicker  on  the  north  and 
north-eastern  sides  than  elsewhere.  A  third  makes 
moss  to  be  thicker  on  the  north  side  of  trees  than  on 
the  others,  a  condition  following  from  the  longer 
retention  of  moisture  on  that  side,  which  is  least 
exposed  to  the  sun. 

There  are  two  varieties  of  getting  lost.  The  less 
serious  is  to  miss  one's  way  for  a  time,  while  knowing 
enough  of  the  "lay  of  the  land"  to  be  sure  Getting 
of  coming  out  right  at  last,  in  other  words  Lost 

getting  temporarily  lost.  The  other  is  to  stray  badly 
in  an  unknown  country  with  the  prospect  of  getting 
deeper  into  the  wilderness  and  having  to  shift  for 
oneself  for  a  day  or  two,  with  worse  possibilities 
beyond. 


172  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

The  first  thing  to  do  when  one  comes,  always  re- 
luctantly, to  the  conviction  that  one  is  lost  is  nega- 
tive— don't  get  flurried.  In  warm  weather  the 
experience  won't  hurt  you  provided  you  are  healthy, 
for,  with  any  grit  and  resource,  you  can  live  on  the 
country  for  several  days  with  little  harm,  and  survive 
to  enjoy  the  telling  about  it.  In  cold  weather  it  is 
a  more  serious  matter,  but  for  this  very  reason  you 
will  need  all  your  faculties  kept  unflurried  and  in  best 
working  order.  Sit  down,  put  on  a  pipe,  and  marshal 
the  known  facts  you  have  to  go  by,  for  there  will 
always  be  at  least  one  or  two.  You  are  aware,  for 
example,  about  how  far  you  have  come  and  nearly 
always  the  general  direction.  Three  courses  are 
open  to  you.  You  may  elect  to  retrace  your  steps 
to  your  starting-point;  you  may  choose  to  go  ahead 
with  the  hope  of  reaching  your  destination  somehow; 
or  you  may  camp  where  you  are  and  wait  for  the 
morrow.  If  you  are  quite  lost  and  the  day  is  draw- 
ing to  a  close,  the  last  alternative  is  best.  Before 
making  up  your  mind,  however,  do  a  lot  of  thinking, 
and,  once  again,  don't  allow  any  panicky  feelings 
to  enter  your  heart.  Most  of  us  have  got  lost; 
the  situation  is  not  so  tragic  as  it  often  appears 
to  the  tenderfoot.  If  you  are  within  a  few  miles 
of  camp  give  the  distress  signal  with  your  rifle.  The 
next  thing  is  to  climb  a  tree  or  a  bluff  and  have  a 
look  at  the  surrounding  country;  the  outlook  may 
tell  you  something  valuable.  You  will  see  lakes, 
watercourses,  ridges,  etc.  Very  likely  you  will  at 
least  learn  in  what  direction  not  to  go.  If  you  left 
a  known  trail  within  an  hour  or  so,  try  to  retrace 
your  steps  for  about  that  length  of  time,  and  then, 
after  carefully  noting  the  place  by  landmarks,  make 


Woodcraft  1 73 

a  wide  circle  with  a  view  to  striking  the  path.  Fail- 
ing this  remember  what  you  saw  from  the  lookout 
tree  and  decide  upon  a  course  down  some  valley 
that  evidently  leads  to  the  low  land.  It  is  a  fact 
that,  if  you  go  far  enough  down-stream,  you  will  come 
to  civilisation  or  its  beginnings,  though  this  may 
take  longer  than  your  strength  will  allow.  A  log- 
road  offers  a  chance  for  good  walking  and  may  lead 
to  some  camp,  old  or  new,  or  it  may  also  bring  up  at 
some  lake,  which  the  loggers  crossed  on  the  ice. 
In  that  case  go  round  the  lake  in  the  hope  of  finding 
another  road  on  the  opposite  side.  When  you  have 
done  your  best  and  there  remains  to  you  only  an  hour 
or  so  of  daylight,  make  your  preparations  for  a 
bivouac.  One  comes  reluctantly  to  this  decision, 
but  the  real  sportsman  nevertheless  welcomes  it 
as  a  true  and  interesting  test  of  his  abilities.  To  be 
"up  against  it"  is  always  a  joy  to  him. 

The  problem  is  to  secure  shelter  and  warmth,  and 
your  preparations  will  last  at  least  a  full  hour  if  you  ' 
have  a  hatchet,  much  longer  without  it;  Bjvouacs 
therefore  begin  betimes.  If  you  can  find 
a  big  rock  with  a  flat  side  build  a  lean-to  (see  Tem- 
porary Camps)  about  six  feet  from  this  side.  With 
a  hatchet  poles  are  soon  cut  and  hemlock,  spruce,  or 
fir  bark  riven  from  the  trees  in  quantities  large  enough 
to  cover  the  back.  If  not  then  cover  with  evergreen 
boughs.  Your  fire  is  built  against  the  big  rock  and 
the  heat  will  be  radiated  into  the  lean-to  in  a  most 
comforting  degree.  If  this  fire  and  camp  combina- 
tion can  be  secured  the  traveller  is  very  fortunate, 
and  his  only  care  will  be  to  have  enough  fuel  on  hand 
for  the  whole  night,  for  it  is  most  disagreeable  to 


174  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

have  to  get  up  in  the  dark  and  cold  to  "  rustle  "  more. 
If  you  are  axeless  you  will  practically  be  reduced  to 
fallen  wood,  old  pine  stumps  being  best.  Very  long 
logs  and  poles  can  be  laid  across  trie  fire  and  burnt 
in  two.  Whatever  your  fuel,  have  enough.  If  the 
ground  is  wet  build  a  fire  first  where  you  intend 
to  lie  (before  putting  up  the  lean-to),  and  dry  it  out. 
You  need  not  wait  until  the  embers  are  absolutely 
dead,  but  heap  boughs  over  the  place,  for  a  bed. 
If  the  night  bids  fair  to  be  cold  it  is  better  to  lie 
sidewise  to  the  fire.  In  autumn  or  winter  a  good 
" wrinkle"  is  to  place  a  number  of  stones  about  six  or 
eight  inches  in  diameter  next  the  fire,  so  that  they  shall 
get  hot.  These  can  then  be  placed  at  the  feet,  back, 
etc.,  as  needed,  and  will  be  found  wonderful  com- 
forters. When  a  stone  loses  its  heat  it  is  replaced 
near  the  fire  and  a  hot  one  taken.  If  too  hot  wrap 
the  stone  in  birch-bark,  or  wait  for  it  to  cool  off. 

If  no  rock  or  large  log  fireback  can  be  found  on 
suitable  ground  (look  out  for  the  wind)  one  must  be 
made  by  piling  up  rocks  or  logs.  Stake  down  the 
backlogs  and  place  rocks  in  two  parallel  columns 
running  towards  the  camp,  for  the  wood  to  rest  on, 
so  that  the  fire  will  be  rather  above  you  as  you  lie, 
giving  more  heat  and  less  smoke. 

If  snow  is  on  the  ground  clear  off  a  space  large 
enough  for  camp  and  fire-place.  This  space  is  best 
made  wedge  shape,  the  fire  being  placed  at  the  apex. 
The  higher  the  snow-walls  the  better,  as  they  help  to 
confine  the  heat.  The  snow  may  also  be  used  to 
make  a  foundation  for  the  lean-to.  Remember  your 
boyhood  days.  Even  an  Eskimo  igloo  is  a  possibility 
if  the  snow  is  soft,  but  it  should  have  an  open  front 
to  let  in  the  heat,  as  a  real  igloo,  with  a  hole  in  the  top 


CHAPTER  XI 

NATURE  PROTECTION 

NOTHING  so  distinguishes  the  pseudo-sportsman 
as  his  utter  subordination  of  all  phases  of  nature  to 
his  every  whim.  He  is  the  man  who  fails  to  put  out 
his  camp-fires;  who  fills  his  creel  with  fingerlings; 
who  pots  robins  and  blackbirds  with  his  .22  and  after- 
wards boasts  of  his  slaughter ;  who  shoots  and  catches 
more  than  he  needs  of  game  and  fish ;  who  leaves  his 
camping-grounds  in  a  filthy  condition ;  who  in  a  word 
inscribes  on  his  banner  the  arch-selfish  motto  of  Louis 
XV. ,  ' '  After  us  the  deluge ! "  He  is  truly  a  disgusting 
personage  in  the  eyes  of  the  genuine  woodsman  and 
nature-lover.  At  bottom,  however,  aside  from  his 
essentially  vulgar  composition,  he  is  generally  only 
the  result  of  the  faulty  education  of  the  present,  for 
which  we  all  in  turn  are  responsible.  It  is  an  extra- 
ordinary thing  that  in  our  country,  where  undoubtedly 
more  money  is  spent  for  education  than  anywhere 
else,  two  weaknesses  stand  out  prominently:  the 
inability  of  even  the  great  majority  of  college-bred 
men  to  write  and  speak  really  good  English,  and  the 
ignorance  shown  on  every  hand  of  the  common  facts 
of  natural  history.  The  causes  of  these  weaknesses 
are  not  the  same,  in  fact  they  would  seem  to  be  widely 
different,  for,  while  English  receives  far  more  atten- 
tion here  than  in  British  institutions,  natural  history 

12  177 


1 78  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

gets  practically  none  at  all.  Does  it  not  seem  ridicu- 
lous, to  put  it  mildly,  that  ninety  per  cent,  of  American 
youths  graduate  from  school  or  college  taking  with 
them  the  fond  beliefs  that  the  porcupine  throws  its 
quills,  that  the  cat  sucks  the  baby's  breath,  and  that 
every  hawk  is  a  " hen-hawk"?  The  college  man  is 
taught  political  economy,  but  has  to  learn  later  in 
life  from  the  Audubon  Society  and  the  Smithsonian 
experts  how  intimately  connected  with  national 
economy  is  the  preservation  of  our  birds.  It  would 
be  a  waste  of  words  in  this  business  age  to  speak  of 
the  aesthetic  side  of  the  subject,  but  it  does  seem  a 
wonderful  and  a  disgraceful  thing  that  most  of  us 
go  through  life  cheek-by-jowl  with  thousands  of 
animals  and  birds,  while  at  the  same  time  nine 
tenths  of  us  could  probably  give  a  less  accurate  de- 
scription of  their  habits  than  we  could  of  the  harpies 
or  the  phoenix  or  the  chimaera!  A  "well-educated" 
person  would  scorn  a  fellow-man  who  displayed 
ignorance  of  the  latter  beast,  but  would  be  more 
than  likely  himself  to  be  quite  unable  to  distinguish 
between  a  weasel  and  a  ferret,  or  a  junco  and  a 
chickadee. 

The  remedy  for  this  faulty  education  lies  primarily 
in  the  hands  of  parents.  The  father  can,  if  he  will, 
easily  train  his  boys  and  girls  to  habits  of  reticence 
in  taking  life,  both  by  example  and  instruction.  In 
our  country  the  mass  of  family  bread-winners  have 
little  time  to  devote  to  their  children,  but  even  these 
can  and  should  see  to  it  that  their  boys  are  provided 
with  the  right  kind  of  books.  Those  of  us  who  be- 
lieve that  the  millennium  is  still  some  distance  off, 
and  that  human  nature  will  not  be  essentially  modified 
for  at  least  a  few  centuries  to  come,  look  with  favour 


Nature  Protection  179 

upon  the  encouragement  of  our  schoolboys  to  use 
firearms,  of  course  under  proper  restraint  and  wise 
instruction.  There  is  nothing  so  stimulating  to  a 
boy's  independence  as  to  place  a  gun  in  his  hand  and 
let  him  roam  the  fields  and  woods.  But  parents  in 
most  cases  confine  their  efforts  to  equipping  their 
boys  with  firearms  and  ammunition,  and  do  not  even 
place  a  copy  of  the  State  game-laws  in  their  hands. 
The  natural  consequence  is  that  the  youngsters  go 
afield  and  bang  at  anything  and  everything  that 
runs,  flies,  or  swims.  Habits  of  slaughter  and  the 
contempt  for  law  are  inculcated  just  at  the  formative 
period.  Every  boy  to  whom  a  gun  or  small  rifle  is 
given  should  be  told  exactly  what  game  he  may 
shoot  and  how  much  of  it,  and  his  father  should 
scrupulously  investigate  the  bag  made.  Best  of  all, 
his  first  hunts  should  be  in  the  company  of  an  elder 
sportsman.  In  a  word  an  effort  should  be  made, 
by  showing  interest  in  the  boy's  improvement  in 
shooting,  by  warning  him  against  the  killing  of 
beneficial  and  ornamental  creatures,  by  appealing 
to  his  sense  of  fair-play  and  teaching  him  to  look 
down  upon  the  promiscuous  killer  as  a  self -exposed 
duffer,  to  make  a  true  sportsman  of  him.  There 
is  no  need  to  despair  if  he  brings  in  a  chipmunk  or 
even  a  robin  from  one  of  his  first  expeditions.  A 
good  fright  or  two  should  improve  his  conduct;  if 
not  his  gun  should  be  taken  from  him  for  a  time, 
or,  if  he  prove  incorrigible,  then  permanently,  or 
until  the  lapse  of  a  few  years  brings  discretion  and 
self-control.  This  last  word  is,  after  all,  the  key  to 
the  whole  situation.  Self-control  is  the  most  im- 
portant trait  of  a  good  citizen,  especially  in  a  de- 
mocracy ;  and  the  earlier  in  life  a  lad  is  taught  this 


i8o  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

incomparable  virtue  the  better  for  him  and  for  the 
world.  In  the  United  States  I  know  of  three  sports 
that  will  teach  a  boy  self-control  most  efficaciously; 
they  are  the  ownership  and  use  of  firearms,  boxing, 
and  the  game  of  football.  The  opponents  of  football 
have  failed  to  recognise  in  it  this  highly  important 
educational  function,  though  it  must  be  confessed 
that,  until  recent  years,  the  authorities  placed  alto- 
gether too  little  restraint  upon  the  players.  In  boxing 
and  American  football  the  opportunities  for  losing 
one's  temper  are  especially  plentiful,  and,  since 
keeping  it  is  an  absolute  necessity  if  ability  is  to 
be  attained,  the  educational  value  of  these  sports 
is  evident.  With  shooting,  caution,  respect  for  law, 
and  the  bridling  of  the  primitive  killing-instinct  are 
attained,  as  well  as  exercise  in  the  open  air,  training 
for  eye  and  hand,  and  a  knowledge  of  natural  his- 
tory and  mechanics. 

I  take  the  opportunity  here  of  quoting  from  a 
recent  letter  of  mine  printed  in  The  Outlook,  on  the 
morality  of  such  sports  as  shooting  and  fishing. 


The  critic  is  commonly  a  man  who  is  not  himself  in- 
terested in  sport.  He  forgets  that  angling  and  the  chase 
have  a  venerable  history,  beginning  with  the  first  efforts 
of  man  to  provide  food  for  his  family,  and  that  their  de- 
velopment has  been  steadily  along  the  line  of  march  of  civ- 
ilisation, until  at  the  present  time  the  American  sportsman, 
who  abhors  the  slaughtering  game  drives  of  imperial  hunts- 
men and  British  pheasant  and  partridge  shooters,  stands  as 
a  model  of  the  humane  woodsman,  who  kills  as  little  as  pos- 
sible and  always  with  the  minimum  of  suffering  to  the  quarry. 
The  critic  cannot  possibly  appreciate  the  love  and  interest 
of  the  sportsman  for  the  implements  of  his  art,  their  develop- 
ment, intrinsic  beauty,  and  delicacy  of  workmanship;  the 
engrossing  interest  inspired  by  observing  the  working  of  new 
rods,  guns,  etc.,  the  incomparable  fascination  of  the  study 


Nature  Protection  181 

of  the  habits  of  fish  and  animals,  which  must  be  mastered 
before  success  can  be  hoped  for  in  the  chase;  the  pleasure  of 
watching  the  intelligent  working  of  his  canine  friends;  the 
cumulative  joys  offered  by  an  expedition  to  good  trout 
waters,  with  its  delicious  anticipation,  the  delight  of  the 
preparation  of  and  addition  to  the  tackle  and  outfit,  the 
crescendo  of  interest  caused  by  the  approach  to  the  grounds, 
the  choice  of  implements,  and  at  last  the  supreme  joy  of 
the  actual  practice  of  an  art  every  detail  of  which  has 
been  perhaps  for  years,  a  well  of  study  and  delight. 
The  layman  cannot  feel  a  tithe  of  the  fascination,  the  com- 
pelling witchery,  of  all  those  things  so  beautifully  set  forth 
in  Kipling's  "calling  of  the  red  gods."  He  forgets  that 
woodland  sport  takes  its  devotees  to  the  pure  bosom  of 
nature,  whose  every  phase  is  replete  with  beauty,  with  the 
spirit  of  human  heroism  and  wholesome  bodily  effort,  of 
good  fellowship,  of  love  for  nature  and  forgetfulness  of  the 
unspeakably  disgusting  vulgarities  of  the  "civilised"  battle 
for  life.  He  refuses  to  believe  that  some  men  crave  the 
strenuous,  and  that  for  these  photography  or  pedestrian  ism 
alone  will  not  suffice  to  allow  the  working  off  of  energy  or 
the  proper  storing  up  of  health  for  the  unnatural  tasks  which 
our  artificial  life  demands  of  all  save  an  infinitesimal  few. 
He  cannot  see  the  charm  of  self-discipline  in  nerve-rack- 
ing moments  when  the  sudden  pulling-himself-together  for 
a  cool  and  supreme  action  regulates  a  man's  mental  poise 
for  perhaps  a  lifetime. 

The  sportsman  would  have  many  other  things  to  say  in  his 
defence.  He  would  adduce  the  beauty  of  the  trophies,  the 
delicacy  of  game  food  eaten  in  the  woods,  but  very  particu- 
larly the  fact  that  he  never  kills  an  animal  or  a  fish  the  body 
of  which  he  cannot  use  legitimately,  that  he  limits  his  bag 
strictly,  and  that  he  kills,  in  the  great  majority  of  cases, 
quickly  and  without  pain. 

And  now,  having  enumerated  a  few  of  the  advantages 
of  these  pastimes  which  make  healthier  bodies,  purer  hearts, 
and  better  citizens,  the  sportsman,  if  he  is  really  frank, 
will  confess  that  the  one  poisoned  swamp  in  his  paradise  lies 
in  the  act  of  killing.  But,  while  admitting  that  this  is  a  sad 
and  regrettable  necessity,  he  sincerely  and  undoubtingly 
believes  that  it  cannot  for  a  moment  outweigh  the  benefits 
and  delights  of  legitimate  hunting  and  fishing. 


1 82  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

In  regard  to  the  question  of  "fair  play,"  if  that  were 
strictly  and  logically  adhered  to,  what  would  become  of  the 
slavery  of  domestic  animals?  One  must  admit  that  man 
tyrannises  over  them,  and  also  that  wild  animals  are  no  match 
for  modern  weapons.  If,  however,  fair  play  means  more 
than  equal  chances  for  the  game  to  escape,  then  nearly  all 
hunting  and  fishing,  when  legitimately  practiced,  are  fair, 
since  the  quarry  actually  does  escape  far  more  often  than  it  is 
brought  to  bag.  If  this  were  not  so,  half  the  joy  of  the  chase 
would  vanish.  Res  sever  a  verum  gaudium. 

Possibly  the  sportsman's  justification  may  be  found  in  the 
above,  but  will  a  people  accustomed  for  ages  to  magnify 
the  moral  (not  to  say  sentimental)  at  the  expense  of  the 
aesthetic  be  able  to  render  it  justice? 

It  is  by  no  means  only  the  small  boy  and  the 
ignorant  and  irresponsible  "dago"  who  are  given 
to  shooting  at  all  kinds  of  beasts  and  birds  indis- 
criminately. Business-men  from  the  great  cities, 
otherwise  intelligent  and  soft-hearted,  seem  to  find 
satisfaction  in  potting  blackbirds  and  even  sparrows, 
for  the  sole  purpose  of  exhibiting  their  marksmanship. 
I  have  known  them  to  descend  five  miles  of  a  river 
and  shoot  at  every  bird  seen  with  their  2  2 -calibre 
rifles,  fortunately  with  little  effect.  They  are  on  a 
well-earned  holiday  and  the  spirit  of  don't-care 
possesses  them.  Such  people  can  only  be  remon- 
strated with,  or,  better  still,  treated  with  ridicule 
and  contempt.  The  more  reasonable  among  them 
may  be  led  into  better  paths  by  interesting  them  in 
some  one  of  the  many  societies  for  the  protection  of 
the  natural  world,  a  good  word  for  which  I  wish  to 
speak  here,  for  I  consider  it  the  duty  of  every  citizen 
who  can  possibly  afford  it  to  contribute  in  this 
manner  to  the  marvellous  work  these  organisations 
are  doing.  Among  them  the  one  that  appeals  to  the 
greatest  number  is  "The  National  Association  of 


Nature  Protection  183 

Audubon  Societies  for  the  Protection  of  Wild  Birds 
and  Animals,"  a  league  the  length  of  whose  name 
properly  typifies  the  really  gigantic  work  for  good  it 
has  and  must  continue  to  do.  I  have  no  space  here  to 
enumerate  the  stock  arguments  even  of  the  bird- 
protectors  alone,  but  two  things  are  admitted  even 
by  the  ignorant:  that,  unless  birds  are  protected, 
they  will  soon  be  exterminated,  and  that,  should 
this  happen,  not  only  would  our  fields  and  woods 
be  robbed  of  their  most  beautiful  ornaments  and 
music,  but  it  would  represent  a  loss  of  uncounted 
millions  of  dollars,  for  people  are  but  just  beginning 
to  appreciate  the  work  of  the  birds  in  keeping  down 
insect-life  that  is  the  agriculturist's  great  enemy. 
Join  the  Audubon  Society,  I  say,  and  contribute 
to  a  great  national  economical  movement,  and  to  the 
continuance  of  the  grandest  and  sweetest  series  of 
symphony  concerts  to  be  heard  under  the  canopy 
of  Heaven,  and  free  concerts  at  that ! i 

Another  national  organisation  of  vast  importance 
is  the  " American  Forestry  Association"  (address: 
Washington,  D.  C.),  which  has  for  its  object  the 
rescue  of  our  magnificent  forests,  and  consequently 
of  the  game  harboured  by  them,  from  the  lumber 
grabbers  and  robbers,  who  will,  unless  checked, 
soon  denude  our  country  of  these  priceless  trea- 
sures, that  can  never  be  regained  if  once  lost.  Only 
future  generations  will  fully  appreciate  the  efforts 
of  President  Roosevelt  and  others  in  the  establish- 
ment of  national  parks  and  the  protection  of  our 
woods. 

There  are  many  other  praiseworthy  leagues  and 

1  Write  for  information  to  William  Dutcher,  141  Broadway, 
New  York  City. 


1 84  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

clubs  of  minor  scope,  and  local  game  societies  are  to  be 
found  in  many  counties  as  well  as  States. 

But  let  not  your  efforts  to  protect  game  be  confined 
to  membership  in  some  of  these  organisations.  That 
would  be  too  much  like  the  Christianity  of  the  average 
city  man  to-day,  a  liberal  offering  of  cash  being  held 
all-sufficient  for  the  soul's  solace.  See  to  it  that  no 
blackbird,  no  beautiful  and  interesting  Canada  jay 
(moose-bird),  nor  any  other  living  thing  falls  to  your 
gun  that  you  do  not  wish  to  use  either  to  eat  or  to 
mount.  But  eating  and  mounting  are  no  excuse 
for  killing  legally  protected  birds  and  animals.  Every 
camper  who  carries  a  gun  or  rifle  should  possess  a 
copy  of  the  game-laws  of  the  State  or  province  where 
he  camps.  Such  can  be  had  of  the  secretaries  of  the 
different  game-societies,  or  an  excellent  and  authori- 
tative resume*  of  all  American  and  Canadian  game- 
laws  may  be  had  in  the  shape  of  a  copy  of  Game 
Laws  in  Brief :,  published  by  Forest  and  Stream  (twenty- 
five  cents).  There  are  many  creatures  recognised  as 
noxious  to  mankind  that  may  be  killed  with  impunity 
and  a  good  conscience,  but  let  your  law  be  to  kill 
nothing  unless  you  are  quite  sure  that  it  is  on 
this  black-list.  The  best  rule  is  to  read  and  digest 
some  good  natural  history  manual,  such  as  Horna- 
day's  American  Natural  History,  which  is  written 
in  a  popular  style,  but  is  authoritative  none  the  less. 
Chapman's  Birds  of  Eastern  North  America  is  a  fund 
of  interesting  and  useful  knowledge  and  should  be 
in  every  summer  camp  where  any  books  are  kept. 
Among  the  creatures  on  the  north  woods  black- 
list may  be  mentioned  among  birds  the  owls,  the 
Cooper's  and  sharp-shinned  hawks,  the  goshawk,  the 
loon,  the  English  sparrow;  among  animals  mice,  rats, 


Nature  Protection  185 

mink,  weasels,  bears,  foxes,  wildcats,  Canada  lynxes, 
skunks,  raccoons,  woodchucks,  and  porcupines. 
But  it  must  be  remembered  that  our  hostility  to 
these  animals,  or  most  of  them,  applies  only  to 
the  wooded  districts,  for  in  a  strictly  farming 
country  no  hawks,  owls,  weasels,  or  other  mice- 
destroying  creatures  should  be  hurt,  in  spite  of 
their  occasional  raids  on  the  hennery,  for  the 
good  they  do  to  the  agriculturist  very  far  out- 
values the  loss  of  a  few  chickens.  In  a  game 
country,  however,  where  there  are  few  or  no  farmers 
to  benefit,  these  creatures  destroy  a  great  number 
of  game-birds  and  animals,  and  should  be  made 
war  on.  But,  again,  the  fur-bearers  among  them 
may  not,  according  to  law,  be  killed  in  summer,  and 
their  fur  would  be  useless  then  anyhow.  As  to 
porcupines,  a  long  residence  in  the  woods  has  con- 
vinced me,  in  spite  of  many  sentimental  friends, 
that  they  should  be  killed  on  sight.  No  one  who 
has  seen  the  result  of  their  ravages  among  trees  in 
Maine,  New  Brunswick,  or  Nova  Scotia  can  fail  to 
sympathise  with  the  woodsman's  hostility  to  these 
otherwise  harmless  and  droll  beasts.  The  fact  that 
their  livers  are  among  the  delicacies  of  the  woods 
may  serve  to  console  our  soft-hearted  friends  for 
"  porky's  "  death.  In  very  remote,  almost  inaccessible 
regions  it  is  supposed  to  be  right  to  spare  porcupines, 
on  account  of  the  possible  food  they  would  furnish 
starving  men;  but  it  will  tax  our  memories  to  recol- 
lect many  such  instances,  if  any,  for  porcupines  do 
not  live  in  a  country  where  one  would  be  likely  to 
starve  unless  it  be  in  midwinter. 

The  growing  interest  in  photography  is  having  a 
most    wholesome    effect    on    our    attitude    towards 


1 86  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

nature,  and  cannot  be  too  warmly  encouraged.  It 
would  be  better,  at  least  for  spring  and  summer  trips, 
to  leave  all  "shooting-irons"  at  home,  unless  the 
members  of  the  party  have  attained  to  such  a  high 
degree  of  sportsmanship  that  they  can  and  will  curb 
all  inclination  to  shoot  at  creatures  that  should  not 
be  harmed.  The  .22-calibre  rifle  in  a  camp  is  a  source 
of  never-ending  amusement,  but  its  use  should  be 
almost  entirely  confined  to  the  target. 

The  camper  should  also  be  filled  with  a  wholesome 
respect  for  his  forest-home.  Often  this  is  not  the 
case.  The  woods  are  all  round  us;  we  may  take 
what  we  will  for  the  asking;  and  in  consequence  we 
cut  and  slash  with  no  regard  for  economy  or  decency. 
Once  more :  after  us  the  deluge !  Fully  to  appreciate 
the  rich  blessings  of  freedom  to  cut  as  much  wood  as 
we  need,  all  campers  should  experience  an  outing  in 
Great  Britain,  or,  better  still,  in  Germany,  where  one 
camps  (in  the  latter  country  at  least)  under  the  grudg- 
ing eye  of  a  rural  policeman  or  forester,  and  with  his 
hand,  so  to  speak,  on  one's  collar.  Cut  so  much  as  a 
twig  and — but  the  consequences  are  too  harrowing! 
Verily  it  is  good  to  live  in  the  north  woods  and  breathe 
its  freedom  from  restraint,  care,  worry,  and  Mrs. 
Grundy.  Let  us  discipline  ourselves ;  overeating  of  free- 
dom is  followed  by  a  very  bad  moral  indigestion.  "The 
master,'  said  Goethe,  " shows  himself  within  limits." 

Let  us  all  do  our  best  to  aid  such  men  as  President 
Roosevelt,  Mr.  Cleveland,  Mr.  Hallock,  Mr.  Samuels, 
Mr.  Caspar  Whitney,  Mr.  Hornaday,  and  others, 
together  with  our  sporting  editors  and  the  hard- 
working officials  of  the  Federal  and  State  governments 
(and  our  Canadian  brothers,  too),  to  save  for  pos- 
terity our  forests  and  our  fauna. 


PART  II 


187 


CHAPTER  XII 

FISHING 

THE  game  fish  of  the  northern  woods  include  the 
SalmonidcB,  the  basses,  and  the  Esocidcz.  In  the 
salmon  family  the  trout  easily  holds  first  place,  if 
only  for  the  reason  that  its  pursuit  occupies  the 
majority  of  wilderness  anglers,  the  magnificent 
sport  of  salmon  fishing  being  confined  to  a  fortunate 
few,  on  account  of  the  expense  entailed.  The  bronze- 
armoured  bass,  though  a  harder  fighter  for  its  inches 
than  the  trout,  is  found  more  in  settled  districts 
and  is  less  a  denizen  of  forest  waters.  Among  the 
Esocidcz  are  the  mascalonge,  the  pike,  and  the  pickerel, 
all  of  them,  like  the  bass,  not  so  much  wilderness 
fish  as  the  trout. 

Of  the  trouts  of  the  north  woods  the  brook  trout 
(Salvelinus  fontinalis)  is  the  commonest  and  most 
important.  Next  comes  the  great  lake  trout  or 
togue  (Cristivomer  namaycush),  which  is  not  gen- 
erally taken  with  the  fly.  Other  less  common 
fish  are  the  oquassa  or  blue-back  trout  of  Maine, 
the  Sunapee  Lake  trout  (Salvelinus  alpinus  aureolus) , 
and  several  species  of  the  far  north.  More  important 
than  these  last  are  soon  likely  to  be  the  European 
brown  trout  (Salmo  fario)  and  the  rainbow  trout 
(Salmo  irideus)  from  the  Pacific  slope,  both  being 
large  and  gamey  fish  capable  of  thriving  in  waters 

189 


i  go  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

warmer  than  those  required  by  the  more  beautiful 
and  livelier  brook  trout,  so  that,  as  the  pulp-mills 
increase  and  the  lumbermen  gradually  but  surely 
denude  the  earth  of  forests,  we  shall  in  time  have 
to  be  satisfied  with  these  importations.  Let  us  be 
duly  thankful,  even  while  we  weep  at  the  fate  of 
our  fontinalis,  that  the  substitutes  are  so  good. 

FISHING    TACKLE 

The  degree  of  completeness  of  a  fisherman 's 
equipment  depends  upon  his  love  of  the  art  and  the 
time  he  is  able  to  bestow  on  it.  One  who  spends  a 
fortnight  at  a  mountain  hotel  and  takes  along  a  rod 
with  a  view  to  visiting  occasionally  a  possible  near-by 
brook  will  be  satisfied  with  the  simplest  outfit, 
though  the  rule  should  always  obtain  that  the  simpler 
the  equipment  the  better  must  be  its  quality,  since 
there  is  no  reserve  tackle  to  fall  back  upon.  The 
genuine  angler,  who  goes  far  and  stays  long,  and 
takes  a  keen  interest  in  every  phase  of  his  art,  will 
not  be  satisfied  with  less  than  three,  or  at  least  two 
rods,  several  reels,  and  a  generous  supply  of  other 
tackle,  to  fit  all  conditions  and  to  be  fortified  against 
accident. 

This  is  the  age  of  specialisation,  and  whereas  in  the 
"good  old  days*'  many  a  fisherman  was  content 
to  use  one  rod  for  both  trout  and  bass,  fly  or  bait, 
on  mountain  brook  or  lordly  stream,  nowadays  the 
expert  selects  his  rod  for  the  particular  fish  and  waters 
to  be  fished  with  as  much  care  as  a  society  belle 
bestows  upon  her  toilette  for  this  or  that  social 
function.  The  result  is  that,  strictly  speaking,  the 
ideal  " all-round  rod,"  so  much  sought  after  by 


Fishing  191 

beginners,  is  not  to  be  found.  Since  modern  rods 
are  very  light  and  easy  to  transport,  it  is  better  to 
have  two  rods,  one  for  fly-fishing  and  the  other  for 
bait  or  trolling,  in  case  one  visits  waters  where  more 
than  one  sort  of  angling  is  practised.  Nevertheless, 
if  the  fisherman  is  not  fastidious  (here's  hoping  he  will 
become  so!),  he  may  be  suited  with  some  one  of 
the  several  "combination-rods ' '  offered  by  the  dealers. 
A  rather  strong,  stiffish  fly-rod  can  be  made  into 
an  excellent  all-round  rod  by  the  addition  of  a  third 
somewhat  shorter  top  for  bait-fishing  and  a  fourth 
for  trolling.  I  own  one  of  bethabara  (noibwood) 
which  weighs  with  lancewood  fly-top  seven  ounces. 
It  has  two  second  joints  ("double-barrelled")  and 
several  varieties  of  top,  and,  though  not  perfect  for 
any  style  of  fishing,  it  is  good  for  any  and  all,  except, 
of  course,  for  large  salmon. 

The  well-equipped  modern  fresh-water  angler 
should  however  have  separate  rods,  lines,  reels,  and 
flies  or  baits  for  salmon-fishing,  fly-fishing  for  trout, 
bass,  or  grayling,  trolling,  bait-casting,  and,  finally, 
for  coarse  fish  generally,  and  even  these  several  classes 
are  subdivided  into  categories,  according  to  the  size 
of  the  fish  sought  or  the  character  of  the  waters. 

In  any  case  remember  that  accidents  to  fishing- 
tackle  are  inevitable  and  do  not  go  into  the  woods 
without  spare  reels,  lines,  etc.,  the  quantity  depend- 
ing upon  the  length  of  the  trip  and  the  opportunities 
for  getting  reserve  stuff. 

TROUT 

Fly-Tackle:  Rods 
American   fly-rods   are   made   of   split  and  glued 


1 92  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

bamboo,  bethabara  or  noibwood,  greenheart,  and 
.  lancewood.  Other  materials  are  used,  but 
have  been  generally  condemned  by  expert 
anglers  as  too  heavy  or  stiff.  As  for  a  steel  rod,  I 
have  yet  to  meet  the  good  fly-fisherman  who  would 
accept  one  as  a  gift,  though  they  are  used  for  bass. 
Four  fifths  of  all  fly-rods  now  used  are  constructed  of 
split  bamboo,  which  may  be  recommended  as  the 
best  material,  both  on  account  of  toughness  and 
resiliency.  The  split  bamboo  was  first  made  in  the 
first  half  of  the  last  century  in  England,  but  has  been 
developed  by  Americans,  who  boast  supremacy 
in  its  manufacture.  Of  late,  however,  the  best 
British  firms,  such  as  Hardy  and  Malloch,  claim 
full  equality.  If  a  British  rod  is  bought  do  not  allow 
that  monstrosity,  the  steel  core,  to  be  included,  nor 
patent .  lock-joints. 

The  well-established  rule  is  to  buy  nothing  cheap, 
especially  in  split  bamboo.  An  excellent  bamboo  rod 
can  be  had  for  $15.00  and  a  fair  one  for 
$10.00,  though  I  would  not  recommend  the 
latter.  Exceptions  aside,  it  is  better  to  take  greenheart 
or  lancewood  in  the  cheaper  grades.  Greenheart  is  less 
used  in  America  than  in  England  though  a  tougher  and 
better  wood.  The'  best  lancewoods  and  greenhearts 
cost  $4.00  to  $8.00.  Of  course  if  you  can  afford  it  buy 
the  best  rod  in  the  market  and  pay  $25.00  or  $30.00 
for  it.  If,  however,  you  are  a  beginner  choose  at 
first  rather  a  cheaper  rod,  for  you  are  likely  to  abuse 
it  before  attaining  to  proficiency.  A  poor  rod  is 
good  enough  to  smash  and  is  good  to  learn  on,  as  a 
fine  rod  is  far  easier  to  handle,  so  that  when  one  is 
afterwards  purchased  the  reward  will  be  doubly  great. 


Fishing  193 

Begin  then  with  cheaper  goods  and  purchase  better 
gradually  as  your  improvement  warrants. 

Anent  the  question  what  make  of  rod  to  purchase  it 
behooves  the  adviser  to  practise  strict  catholicity.  It 
is  obviously  quite  impossible  to  prove  that  Where 
the  wares  of  one  first-class  manufacturer  to  Buy 
outclass  those  of  another,  although  in  this  connection 
the  catalogue  claims  of  the  several  firms  afford  very 
amusing  reading.  "We  guarantee  these  rods  to  be 
the  best  .  .  .  made,  except  only  our  Eight-Strip, 
etc./'  says  one  New  York  firm,  while  another's 
"are  infinitely  superior  to  anything  in  the  market 
exclusive  of"  another  of  their  own  make.  A  third 
firm  says,  "Our  aim  was  to  produce,  not  as  good  a 
rod  as  others,  but  the  best.  This  we  have  accomplished, 
etc."  And  this  bombastic  boasting  comes,  not  from 
charlatans,  but  the  three  supposedly  best  fishing- 
tackle  firms  in  the  metropolis!  Their  claims  serve 
to  offset  each  other  and  leave  the  perplexed  pur- 
chaser in  the  same  plight  as  before.  As  a  matter  of 
fact  they  are  all  good.  By  the  time  that  the  novice 
has  become  a  veteran  he  will  have  plenty  of  ideas 
himself  on  the  subject  of  the  best  make;  until  then 
it  does  n't  much  matter. 

Among  Eastern  firms  carrying  first-class  rods  and  other 
tackle  may  be  mentioned:  in  New  York:  Abercrombie  & 
Fitch,  Abbey  &  Imbrie,  W.  Mills  &  Son,  Von  Lengerke, 
Detmold  &  Co.,  " Abercrombie 's,"  E.  Vom  Hofe;  in  Boston: 
Iver  Johnson  Co.,  W.  Read  &  Sons,  Dame,  Stoddard  &  Co.; 
in  Amherst.  Mass.:  Montague  City  Rod  Co.;  in  Worcester, 
Mass. :  Burtis;  in  Manchester,  Vt. :  Chas.  F.  Orvis;  in  St.  John, 
N.  B.:  C.  Baillie,  and  D.  Scribner  &  Co.;  in  Halifax:  A.  M. 
Bell;  in  Montreal:  T.  W.  Boyd;  in  Quebec:  V.  &  B.  Company. 
Of  course  these  are  by  no  means  the  only  first-class  houses; 
13 


194  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

in  fact  nearly  every  city,  especially  those  near  the  fishing 
sections,  has  at  least  one  good  tackle  firm.  I  have  personally 
used  rods  made  (or  sold)  by  the  New  York  and  Boston  firms 
mentioned  above  and  all  are  good. 

It  goes  without  saying,  that  a  complete  novice, 
without  the  help  of  a  knowing  friend,  is  quite  inca- 
pable of  testing  a  rod  and  is  therefore  in 
the  hands  of  the  dealer.  Later,  when  he 
again  purchases,  he  will  joint  the  rod  in  the  shop, 
attach  a  reel  of  the  proper  weight,  and  whip  it 
through  the  air  a  number  of  times,  as  if  in  the  act  of 
casting,  with  a  view  to  testing  its  balance  and  action, 
and  ascertaining  whether  it  feels  right,  in  other  words 
is  the  rod  for  him.  He  should  hold  it  horizontally, 
look  along  it  from  butt  to  tip,  and  slowly  revolve 
it ;  if  well-made  its  slight  curve  downward  will  remain 
exactly  constant.  If  he  is  very  careful  he  will  try 
a  few  casts  with  a  line,  and  he  is  quite  justified  in 
refusing  to  buy  without  this  full  "whipping  test," 
especially  in  the  case  of  a  high-priced  rod,  for  not 
every  good  rod  fits  every  man.  A  good  method 
in  choosing  a  cheaper  grade  is  to  ask  your  dealer  to 
set  up  one  of  his  best,  so  that  it  may  be  tried  alter- 
nately with  the  cheaper  rods,  in  order  to  select  the 
one  nearest  to  it  in  action.  The  inexperienced  should 
always  buy  a  rod  from  a  maker  or  dealer  of 
reputation. 

The  angler  in  American  waters  will  be  likely  to  do 
much  of  his  angling  in  rapid  brooks,  for  which  reason 
Length  and  he  should  choose  a  rod  that  is  a  bit  stiffish 
Weight  rather  than  very  whippy,  especially  if 
he  has  but  one.  If  the  fishing  is  to  be  done  on  small 
brooks,  such  as  in  the  Massachusetts  Berkshires, 


Fishing  195 

the  right  thing  is  a  rod  from  eight  and  a  half  to  nine 
feet  long  and  weighing  from  four  to  six  ounces.  It 
should  be  rather  stiff,  as  the  overgrown  banks  often 
prevent  the  use  of  a  landing-net  and  therefore  make 
the  "derricking  out"  of  the  catch  imperative.  On 
large  streams  or  lakes  the  rod  may  go  to  ten  feet 
and  seven  ounces,  or,  for  a  strong  wrist,  ten  and  a  half 
feet  and  seven  and  a  half  ounces.  A  very  fine  rod 
is  a  split  bamboo  nine  or  nine  and  a  half  feet  long 
and  from  four  to  five  ounces  in  weight,  but  such 
light  rods  should  be  of  the  best  workmanship  and 
are  therefore  expensive.  A  trout  rod  over  ten  and 
a  half  feet  is  practically  never  seen  now  on  this  side 
of  the  ocean,  and  this  is  long  enough  in  all  conscience. 
After  all  an  ounce  more  or  less  in  a  rod  is  not  nearly 
so  important  as  the  balance.  A  well-balanced  rod 
that  fits  the  hand  is  far  less  tiring  than  a  poorly 
balanced  one  a  couple  of  ounces  lighter.  Any  addi- 
tional weight  should,  however,  lie  under  or  behind 
the  hand. 

Nearly  all  American  rods  are  made  in  three  pieces: 
the  butt,  second  joint,  and  top,1  an  extra  top  always 
being    furnished    with    every    rod.      One 
need  not  concern  oneself  about  the  style  J 

of  ferrule  used  in  joining  the  parts,  whether  plain 
insertion,  dowel,  or  some  patent  "lock-joint."  In  a 
good  American  rod  every  joint  will  be  strong  and 
fast ;  at  least  in  all  my  experience  I  have  never  found 

1  In  order  to  prevent  confusion  I  choose  here  and  elsewhere 
the  proper  designation  for  the  upper  joint  of  a  rod,  as  the 
American  innovation,  "tip,"  is,  correctly  speaking,  the 
metal  or  agate  ring  through  which  the  line  passes  as  it  leaves 
the  rod,  and  not  the  whole  upper  joint. 


196  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

one  that  was  at  all  loose,  and  can  therefore  see  no 
advantage  in  adding  unnecessary  weight  in  the  form 
of  some  extra  lock  or  grip.  It  throws  an  unfavourable 
light  upon  the  quality  of  British  ferrules  that  these 
devices  are  at  home  only  on  the  other  side  of  the 
water.  The  simple  joint  is  preferable  to  the  dowel, 
as  the  latter  must  increase  the  stiffness  of  the  rod 
by  lengthening  the  joint,  the  ideal  rod  being  in  one 
piece  (spliced)  with  an  equal  bend  from  butt-cap 
to  tip,  like  the  Castle  Connell  rods  of  Ireland.  One- 
piece  rods  are,  however,  so  difficult  to  transport  that 
they  are  seldom  made  in  this  country.  Welted  ferrules 
are  generally  furnished  with  good  rods. 

Nearly  all  ferrules  are  made  of  highly  polished 
metal,  so  that  they  tend  to  frighten  the  fish;  therefore 
have  them  oxidised  or  otherwise  dulled. 

Guides,  through  which  the  line  passes  from  reel  to 
tip,  are  made  in  several  styles,  all  rods  of  cheap  or 
G  .,  medium  grade  being  furnished  with  rings 

of  white  metal  whipped  to  the  rod  with 
silk  by  means  of  "keepers."  More  expensive  rods 
generally  have  some  kind  of  standing  guides,  the 
so-called  "snake  guide"  being  the  favourite,  made 
of  steel  or  German  silver.  The  problem  is  to  reduce 
to  a  minimum  the  friction  of  the  line  against  the 
guides,  to  facilitate  casting.  For  this  purpose  guides 
are  often  made  of  very  smooth  substances,  such  as 
composition  "adamant"  and  the  much  more  expen- 
sive agate,  the  latter,  almost  frictionless,  being  the 
best.  These  substances,  however,  increase  the  weight 
of  the  rod,  and  hence,  except  occasionally  nearest  the 
reel,  they  are  seldom  used  on  fly-rods.  It  is  of  decided 
advantage  to  have  an  adamant  or  agate  guide  next  the 


Fishing  197 

reel,  as  the  line  forms  a  considerable  angle  with  the 
guide  at  this  point,  thus  increasing  the  friction.  On 
very  light  fly-rods  they  are  not  used. 

Fly-tips  are  generally  made  of  white  metal  rings, 
but  one  of  adamant,  or,  better  still,  agate,  is  to  be 
recommended,  since  the  greatest  amount 
of  friction  is  generated  here.     In  casting 
the  use  of  agate  tips  and  first  guides  makes  a  very 
noticeable  difference,  while  they  save  much  wear  on 
the  line.    In  buying  metal  ring  tips  get  the  very  best, 
as  the  cheaper  grades  wear  out  the  line  grievously. 

The  wrappings  on  rods  are  of  the  finest  and  strongest 
silk,  and  are  whipped  on  the  rod,  if  it  be  a  high-class 

bamboo,  at  intervals  of  not  over  an  inch,     -,, 

Wrapping 

the  object  being  strength,  since  the  six  or 
eight  strips  of  which  bamboo  rods  are  composed  are 
otherwise  held  together  only  by  glue.  It  is  the  unfor- 
tunate custom  of  makers  to  deck  out  their  rods  with 
several  different-coloured  silks  of  the  gaudiest  tints, 
which,*  added  to  the  varnished  brightness  of  the  aver- 
age bamboo,  completes  a  rod  which  scintillates  in  the 
sun  like  a  heliograph,  and  is  apt  to  frighten  all  the 
trout  in  a  pool  into  fits.  Greenheart  and  bethabara 
rods  have  the  advantage  of  being  wrapped  in  silk 
of  soberer  colours,  a  benefit  too  often  neutralised  by 
the  use  of  polished  metals,  such  as  German  silver 
and  nickel,  for  ferrules  and  reel-mountings,  which 
should  be  oxidised  (see  Repairing). 

Nearly  every  maker  has  some  patent  method  of 
fastening  the  reel  to  the  rod,  nearly  all  being  efficient, 


The  Way  of  the  Woods 


Reel-seat 


though  some  admit  the  use  of  certain  kinds  of 
reels  only.  The  simplest  are  likely  to  be  the  lightest 
and  best.  Very  light  rods  are  often  equipped 
with  merely  a  socket  for  one  end  of  the 
reel  cross-piece  and  a  sliding  ring  to 
go  over  the  other,  the  natural  wood 
of  the  rod  being  left  without  reel- 
seat.  Reel-seats  are  generally  of 
metal,  though  hard  rubber  is  lighter 
and  quite  strong  enough. 


Butt -cap 


The  butt  of  the  rod  is  covered  with 
the  butt-cap,  which  in  this  country  is 
generally  made  of  thin 
metal,  so  thin  in  fact  that 
it  easily  dents,  or,  in  the  case  of  a  fall 
by  its  owner,  is  even  smashed  to 
pieces.  A  rod,  is,  to  be  sure,  not 
meant  to  be  used  as  a  staff,  but  there 
are  many  times,  as  when  balancing 
on  the  slippery  rocks  of  northern 
streams,  when  it  is  involuntarily  so 
used  to  avoid  a  nasty  fall.  In  such 
cases  the  rubber  button  which  the 
British  screw  to  the  butts  of  their 
rods  seems  an  excellent  thing,  being 
inexpensive  and  easily  replaced.  For 
light  rods  they  would  be  unnecessary. 


/TV  j      i_       ji  j          £    FIG.    29.  —  British 

Trout-rod    handles    are    made    of  u     „      ...    ^  . 

Handle  with  Butt- 
many  materials,  such  as  cork,  wood,    Button 

snake-skin,   cork   or  wood 
wound    with    cane    or  with    twine,    hard 
rubber,  and  several  kinds  of   composition.      Of   all 


Fishing 


199 


t 


these  the  " solid  cork"  handle  is  considered  the  most 
satisfactory,  especially  for  lighter  rods,  as  it  is  very 
light  and  offers  a  good  grip.  It  is  made  of  a  number  of 
graded  disks  of  cork  fitted  together  round  the  rod, 

which    passes  through  holes  in 

their  centres.     Another  sort  of 

cork  handle,  used  only  in  cheap 

rods,  is  made  of  thin  sheets  of 

cork  glued  over  swelled  wooden 

handles.     These    latter,    called 

simply  "cork  handles"  in    the 

catalogues,  are  very  flimsy.  The 

real    cork     handle     is     always 

called     "solid"     in     American 

catalogues.     If     your     rod     is 

equipped   with   a   cheap   sheet- 
cork  handle  have  it  wound  with 

thin   twine,    or    do  it  yourself, 

and  you  will  have  an  excellent 

handle.     Hard  rubber,  celluloid, 

and  most  polished  woods  are 
Swelled  "to°  slippery  for  this  purpose; 
Handle  snake-skin  affords  a  good  grip 

but  wears  poorly.  The  gently 
swelled  handle  is  pretty  universal  for 
single-handed  rods,  but  "shaped" 
handles,  swelled  at  each  end  as  well  as 
in  the  middle,  are  sometimes  made, 
especially  in  England.  FIG.  31.— Shaped 

Handle 

This  is  a  short  handle  into  which  the  whole  of  the 
rest  of  the  rod  fits.  Its  principal  advan-  Independent 
tages  are  best  described  by  Mr.  H.  P.  Handle 
Wells  in  Fly- Rods  and  Fly-Tackle: 


FIG.  30 


200  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

"Use  a  handle  with  a  ferrule  immediately  above  it — or, 
better  still,  sunk  into  it— to  receive  the  butt  joint,  the  whole 
so  arranged  that  while  the  handle  remains  still,  the  butt 
joint  can  be  turned  readily,  so  as  to  present  the  rings  either 
beneath  or  on  top  of  the  rod.  One  handle  will  thus  do  for 
all  single-handed  fly-rods,  heavy  or  light.  You  can  cast 
with  the  rings  underneath  or  above,  while  the  reel  always 
remains  in  its  normal  and  only  convenient  position — that 
below  the  hand  and  under  the  handle — and  you  can  change 
from  one  to  the  other  as  your  fancy  dictates.  Also  in  order- 
ing or  making  a  new  rod,  you  will  not  only  save  the  expense 
of  a  new  handle  and  its  furniture,  but  avoid  the  temptation 
to  use  strong  language  when  you  find  your  old  reels  will  not 
fit.  Again,  your  rod,  even  if  of  inferior  material,  will  always 
remain  straight  and  uniform  in  action." 

Of  course  the  butt  joint  is  turned  only  half-way 
round  when  the  rings  are  to  be  used  on  top,  so  that 
the  line  will  extend,  not  completely  round  the  butt, 
but  only  half-way  in  a  long  curve,  and  in  this  position 
it  will  render  freely. 

This  idea  of  the  independent  handle  is  an  excellent  one, 
but,  so  far  as  I  know,  it  is  not  made  by  any  manufacturer 
as  a  stock  article,  or,  at  any  rate,  not  advertised.  If  any 
amateur  wishes  to  start  a  collection  of  rods  with  one  uni- 
versal independent  handle  he  can  do  no  better  than  to  ask 
his  maker  to  proceed  on  the  lines  laid  down  by  Mr.  Wells  on 
page  247  et  seq.  of  his  book. 

Trunk-rods  are  made  in  from  four  to  six  or  seven 
joints  short  enough  to  be  carried  in  an  ordinary 

trunk.      Although    convenient    for    trans- 
Trunk -rods  ,.          ,,  ,, 

portation     they    are,     except     the    most 

expensive,  of  poor  action  and  not  to  be  recommended. 

American  rods  are  usually  sold  with  a  light  plush 
or  cloth-covered  wooden  form,  made  with  grooves 


Fishing  201 

into  which  the  several  joints  fit,  the  form  being  kept 
in  a  canvas  bag.  For  extensive  travelling  and  for 
storage  purposes  round  leather  and  fibre 
cases  are  made  in  several  qualities  to  hold 
from  one  to  half  a  dozen  rods,  the  strongest  being 
of  sole  leather  and  costing  from  $10.00  to  $15.00. 
Cheaper  cases  of  fortified  canvas  may  be  had  for 
$1.00  and  are  excellent  for  canoe  trips.  Another 
kind  of  case,  particularly  suitable  for  transportation, 
is  simply  a  long,  narrow  wooden  box  with  straps, 
lock,  and  handles. 

The  worthy  angler  looks  after  his  rods  with  the 
same  assiduity  as  the  cavalryman  does  his  horse,  and 
he  reaps  his  just  reward,  for,  with  care,  a  Care  of 
poor  rod  will  last  longer  and  keep  in  better  Rods 

condition  than  one  of  high  price  which  is  maltreated. 

See  that  form  and  case  are  prefectly  dry  and  clean 
before  putting  away  the  rod,  having  previously 
wiped  the  rod  dry,  handle,  ferrules,  and  all.  See 
that  no  foreign  substances  remain  in  the  ferrules. 
If  the  rod  is  not  kept  in  an  inflexible  form  do  not  tie 
string  or  tape  round  the  middle  of  the  case  or  bag, 
and  be  sure  to  store  standing  vertically,  or,  if  hor- 
izontally, so  that  it  rests  equally  upon  its  entire 
length.  If  set  away  without  unjointing  see  that  it 
stands  vertically  as  nearly  as  possible,  or,  if  laid 
horizontally  upon  pegs,  have  enough  of  them  to 
prevent  any  strain  on  any  part  of  the  rod.  The  best 
way  to  put  away  a  jointed  rod  is  to  hang  it  up  by 
the  tip.  Rods  should  not  be  left  long  in .  too  low 
an  atmosphere.  Before  jointing  see  that  the  ferrules 
are  quite  clean.  Mr.  Wells  recommends  that  they 
be  greased,  but  I  greatly  prefer  a  smoother  lubricant, 


202  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

the  best  I  know  being  Dixon's  graphitoleo,  which 
comes  conveniently  in  small  tubes.  If  the  ferrules 
stick  obstinately  when  unjointing  do  not  adopt 
such  radical  measures  as  jerking  impatiently;  ask  a 
friend  to  hold  one  joint  while  you  pull  on  the  other, 
but  be  careful  to  twist  the  rod  only  very  slightly  or 
the  ferrules  will  be  weakened.  Do  not  indulge  in  a 
regular  tug-of-war  if  the  joints  refuse  to  part,  but 
heat  the  ferrule  by  holding  a  coal  or  a  match  near 
it,  being  careful  not  to  burn  the  wood.  The  best 
cure  for  sticking  is  the  use  of  graphitoleo  before 
jointing.  If  no  other  lubricant  is  handy  rub  the 
male  ferrule  against  your  perspiring  nose,  or  rub 
with  a  lead  pencil.  If  lubrication  fails  to  cure  the 
sticking  malady  recourse  must  be  had  to  the  finest 
emery-dust,  with  which  the  male  ferrule  is  rubbed, 
but  great  care  must  be  taken,  as  emery  pares  down 
German  silver  with  great  rapidity  and  a  few  seconds' 
overrubbing  will  spoil  the  ferrule. 

The  moment  a  real  mechanical  defect  appears, 
such  as  a  loosened  ferrule  or  tip  or  a  frayed  wrapping, 
repair  it  at  once.  Never  use  your  rod  if  minus  even 
one  guide,  or  it  is  likely  to  be  badly  strained.  (See 
below  under  Repairing.) 

To  joint  a  rod,  fit  the  top  to  the  second  joint,  being 
careful  to  bring  the  guides  in  exact  line.  (Each  pair 
of  ferrules  is  provided  with  indented  dots  which  must 
be  brought  immediately  opposite  each  other.)  Then 
fit  the  two  jointed  parts  to  the  butt.  Be  sure  that  the 
ferrules  are  inserted  to  their  full  length.  The  reel  is 
then  fitted  to  the  reel-seat  and  the  line  drawn  through 
the  guides.  It  sometimes  happens  that  a  rod  must  be 
jointed  in  a  canoe  or  boat,  in  which  case  the  reel  may 
be  affixed  first  and  the  line  drawn  through  the  guides 


Fishing  203 

before  jointing,  pulling  off  enough  line  for  the  parts 
to  be  laid  beside  one  another  unjointed.  Care  must 
be  taken  when  jointing  that  the  line  does  not  foul 
nor  take  a  false  twist  round  the  rod.  If  you  find 
that  even  the  slightest  mistake  has  been  made  in 
setting  up,  do  not  use  the  rod  in  that  condition  but 
rectify  the  mistake  at  once. 

To  unjoint,  untie  the  leader,  withdraw  the  line, 
and  unjoint  first  at  the  butt.  If  the  rod  is  to  be  used 
again  shortly  with  the  same  tackle  the  line  may  be 
left  in  the  guides  and  wound  loosely  round  the 
unjointed  parts. 

Never  put  a  rod  away  wet,  or  any  tackle  for  that 
matter.  Never  leave  it  out  all  night  leaning  against 
the  tent,  as  many  anglers  do.  The  moisture  will 
before  long  hurt  the  varnish  and  certainly  the  reel 
and  line.  Do  not  fish  continuously  with  the  reel 
under  (or  pver)  the  rod,  but  reverse  the  rod  every 
little  while  and  use  it  in  that  position,  in  order  to 
equalise  the  strain,  as  otherwise  even  the  best  rod 
will  likely  be  "set"  to  one  side.  At  the  end  of  the 
season  straighten  and  varnish  your  rod  or  have  it 
done  by  your  dealer,  renewing  all  frayed  wrappings 
and  testing  for  looseness  and  cracks.  (See  Repairing.) 

Reels 

For  fly-fishing  the  perfect  reel  should  be: 

1.  Single-action,   i.e.,    in   the  form    of   a   simple 
winch,  and  not  a  so-called  "multiplier,'1  Qualities  of 
or,   worse  yet,   an  automatic,  both  these  a  Good  Reel 
being  unnecessary  and  unsportsmanlike. 

2.  It  should  hold  thirty  or  thirty-five  yards  of  No. 
E  enamelled  silk  line;  for,  though  most  fishermen  are 
unable  to  cast  well  more  than  twenty  yards  and  are 


204  The  WaY  of  the  Woods 

very  seldom  called  upon  to  use  much  more,  it  is  well 
to  have  a  certain  reserve  of  line  on  the  reel  in  case 
of  accident  or  wearing,  and  the  fuller  the  reel  the 
larger  the  spool  on  which  the  line  is  wound,  and 
therefore  the  faster  to  wind. 

3.  It  should  be  oxidised,  or  of  some  dull  material 
(bronze,  rubber)  that  will  not 
reflect  the  light  and  frighten  the 
fish. 

4.  It  should  have  a  protected 
handle,  i.e.,  one  that  does  not 
project  more  than  f  inch  out 
from  the  side  of  the  reel  and  con- 
sists of  a  single  simple  wooden  nib 

FIG.  32,— British  Reel  ,    .  ^   1      1     ^ 

revolving  on  a  metal  shaft  and 
tapers  slightly  towards  its  outer  end,  so  that,  if  the 
line  is  caught  by  the  nib,  as  often  happens,  it  will 
slip  off  automatically. 

(It  will  be  seen  that  this  condemns  all  so-called  "balance 
handle "  reels,  the  handles  of  which  protrude  to  such  an 
extent  that  the  line  is  constantly  being  fouled  in  them,  an 
annoying  state  of  things  by  no  means  helped  by  the  double 
ends.) 

5.  The  edges  of  the  reel  which  come  in  contact 
with  the  line  as  it  is  pulled  or  reeled  off  should  be 
so  rounded  that  they  will  not  wear  the  line.     Most 
cheap  reels  offend  against  this  rule.     The  mischief  is 
not  done  in  reeling  in,  but  in  pulling  off  extra  line  for 
a  longer  cast  with  the  free  hand,  this  being  done  for 
the  most  part  over  the  sides  of  the  reel. 

6.  The    reel    should    be    of   the    right    weight    to 
balance  the  rod,  and  this  can  be  ascertained  only  by 
experiment.     It  is  generally  true  that  the  lighter  the 
tackle  the  better,  but  this  does  not  mean,  for  example, 


Fishing  205 

that  an  aluminum  reel  will  properly  balance  every 
rod;  on  the  contrary  it  is  sure  to  be  too  light  for 
anything  over  4  or  4^  ounces. 

If  the  above  rules  be  sound,  and  I  believe  that  the 
great  majority  of  expert  fly-fishermen  will  so  regard 
them,  it  is  apparent  that  most 
so-called  trout  reels  cannot  be 
recommended  for  fly-fishing. 
The  multiplying  system  and 
the  balance  handle  are,  with 
the  exception  of  the  abomi- 
nable automatic  reels,  most 
to  blame,  and  no  amount  of 
bejewelling  and  expert  work-  FIG  33._American  Trout 
manship  can  save  them  in  the  Reel  with  protected  Handle 
eyes  of  the  true  sportsman. 

They  lighten  the  work  of  the  angler,  retrieving 
his  line  for  him  at  a  double  or  quadruple  pace, 
so  that  the  fish,  already  at  sufficient  disadvantage, 
has  little  chance  for  its  life;  and  in  cases  when  even 
an  expert  gets  into  trouble,  such  as  when  the  fish 
takes  refuge  in  weeds  or  bolts  down  a  rapid,  they 
are  of  no  help  at  all. 

The  British  manufacture  only  single-action  reels. 
The  Hardy  Brothers'  "Perfect"  and  "Bougie" 
reels  are  all  that  an  angler  could  desire,  and  the  same 
may  be  said  for  the  Malloch  (Perth)  gun-metal  reels 
and  especially  the  "Sun  and  Planet"  ($4.00  to  $6.00). 

At  home  we  have  some  excellent  fly-reels,  among 
them  the  B.  F.  Meek  single-action  trout-reel  ($15.00). 
This  is  made  of  German  silver,  but  the  Messrs. 
Meek  assure  me  that  they  will  cheerfully  oxidise 
their  reels  when  desired.  The  Talbot  "Ben  Hur" 
reel  ($10.00)  may  be  recommended,  as  I  take  for 


206  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

granted  it  can  be  had  oxidised  as  well  as  in  bright 
nickel.  The  common  single-action  hard  rubber  reels 
are  many  of  them  good,  $3.50  being  the  medium 
price.  Among  very  cheap  reels  may  be  mentioned 
the  Abbey  &  Imbrie  " Revolving  Disc"  ($1.50),  and 
especially  the  Meisselbach  "  Ex- 
pert ' '  and  ' '  Feather-weight ' J 
reels,  as  they  possess  the  great 
advantages  of  simple  construc- 
tion and  generous  spool,  en- 
abling one  to  wind  in  the  line 
very  fast.  They  can  always  be 
had  oxidised.  Beyond  their 

FIG.  aZ^Tte"  Expert"  rather  crude  construction  (com- 

Ree^  pared  with  high-priced  wares), 

their  only  weaknesses  are  their 

sharp  edges  and  the  fact  that  tapered  lines  cannot 
well  be  used  in  them,  as  the  thin  ends  are  apt 
to  catch  in  the  rims.  They  are  in  other  respects 
ideal  low-priced  reels.  The  forty-yard  "Expert" 
costs  $1.60  and  is  heavy  enough  to  balance  a 
five-  to  seven-ounce  rod.  The  "Feather-weight" 
costs  the  same  and  is  for  a  very  light  rod;  in 
fact  it  is  so  lightly  made  as  to  be  somewhat  easily 
broken.  The  ease  with  which  the  Meisselbach  reels 
can  be  taken  apart  and  cleaned  is  a  great  advan- 
tage. The  Orvis  reel  ($2.50),  if  oxidised,  is  a  fine 
article. 

As  a  parting  advice  on  this  subject,  never  go  into 
the  woods  without  a  spare  reel. 

Use  only  the  very  best  oil  in  good  reels 

and  that  very  sparingly,  in   order   not  to 

clog  the  mechanism.     Every    good    reel    should    be 


Fishing  207 

kept    in  a  leather  case,   or  at  least  a  stout  bag,  to 
keep  the  dust  out. 

Lines 

The  requisites  of  the  perfect  fly-line  are  strength, 
durability,  smoothness,  and  extreme  flexibility,  and 
these  are  found  in  the  best  modern  "enam- 
elled silk"  waterproof  line,  though  only  in 
the  best  qualities,  costing,  for  twenty-five  yards  of  size 
E  level,  from  $1.25  to  $2.00.     They  are  made  of  the 
finest  braided  silk,  waterproofed  in  a  vacuum,  so  that 
the  waterproofing  will   penetrate   to   the   core   and 
thus  prevent  rotting,  even  when  the  enamel,  which 
envelops  and  glosses  the  line,  is  broken. 

Any  neutral  colour  is  good,  the  favourite  being  a 
mixture  of  green  and  black. 

For  trout-fishing  in  swift  running  water  level  lines 
are  used,  i.e. ,  such  as  are  of  the  same  thickness  through- 
out. Size  E  is  generally  preferred  for  rods  Level  or 
weighing  over  4^-  ounces,  as  its  weight  Tapered 
enables  it  to  be  easily  cast,  especially  in  a  wind. 
F  may  be  used  with  rods  not  powerful  enough  for  E. 
The  important  point  is  that  the  line  shall  run  out  to 
the  rod's  (and  the  angler's)  casting  capacity  with 
ease.  For  delicate  fishing  in  waters  where  the  cur- 
rent is  not  too  strong  tapered  lines  are  far  the  best. 
These  taper  off  towards  the  end  in  diameter,  and 
possess  the  great  advantage  that  the  light  end  (next 
the  leader)  does  not  slap  the  water  as  a  heavy  line 
is  too  apt  to  do,  especially  after  a  long  cast,  but  falls 
gently  and  thus  allows  the  fly  to  settle  softly  over 
the  fish.  This  lightness  of  placing  the  fly  is  far 
more  important  than  length  of  cast  in  quiet  waters, 


208  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

especially  on  a  bright  day.  The  best  all-round  tapered 
fly-line  is  of  the  size  E  in  the  middle  and  tapers  to  F 
and  even  G  at  the  ends.  The  double  taper  enables 
the  line  to  be  used  from  either  end. 


Oiled  silk  lines,  not  enamelled,  are  much  cheaper 
($.50  to  $.75    for    twenty-five    yards),  and  do    ex- 
Cheap  Lines cellent  work>  though,    being  lighter,  they 
are  harder  to  cast   from  a  trout-reel,  and 
are  much  more  apt  to  foul  and  snarl. 


When  buying  a  line  see  that  the  coils  do  not  stick 
together  to  any  extent,  for,  though  the  soft  enamel- 
ling is  more  flexible,  stickiness  will  coun- 
teract  this   advantage.      Double   the   end 
of  the  line  between  the  finger  and  thumb  and  give 
the  loop  thus  formed  a  roll.     If  the  spot  shows  a 
whitish  mark  the  enamel  is  too  brittle  and  of  bad 
quality. 

Every  line,  new  or  old,  should  be  subjected,  at  the 
beginning  of  each  season,  to  a  tension  of  at  least 
twelve  pounds  (some  say  sixteen  pounds).  The  best 
lines  when  new  will  stand  far  more  than  that.  A  test 
in  time  saves  many  a  disappointment.  Soft-enamel 
lines  can  be  advantageously  rubbed  down  with 
deer-fat  to  keep  them  pliable  and  smooth ;  graphitoleo 
will  do  also,  though  the  overnice  fisherman  might 
soil  his  hands  with  it.1 

1  Never  allow  a  good  line  to  remain  any  length  of  time 
wet  on  the  reel,  but  remove  it  and  wipe  dry.  There  are 
several  good  drying-reels  for  this  purpose  on  the  market 
("Angler's  Friend,"  $2;  "Nichols,"  $i).  The  back  of  a  chair 
may  also  be  used. 


Fishing  209 

Leaders 

The  gut  from  which  all  leaders  (casting-lines)  are 
made  is  produced  in  the  province  of  Murcia  in 
Spain  from  the  fluid  of  the  silk- worm, 
which  is  drawn  from  the  worm  and  hardens 
upon  exposure  to  the  air.  The  strands,  which  are 
between  10  and  18  inches  long  (the  most  expensive 
up  to  24),  are  sorted  according  to  size  and  again 
according  to  quality.  Fishermen  should  Testing  for 
have  to  do  only  with  good  gut,  and  this  Quality 
is  known  by  its  hard,  smooth,  colourless  quality, 
and  its  absolute  roundness.  Rolling  it  between 
the  fingers  will  reveal  any  flatness,  which  means 
weakness. 

The  finest  (in  diameter)  natural  gut  is  called 
"Refina",  and  is  used  for  the  most  delicate  trout- 
casts  (107QO  to  -nnnj-  inch  thick).  Then  follow  "Fina," 
"Regular,"  "Padron"  second  and  first,  "Marana" 
second  and  first,  "Imperial,"  and  "Royal,"  which 
last  is  the  very  thickest  salmon  gut,  produced  only 
in  small  quantities,  and  consequently  very  expensive. 

Natural  gut  is  called  undrawn  to  distin-    ~ 

0  Drawn  Gut 

guish  it  from  "drawn  gut,"  which  is 
produced  in  several  sizes  by  drawing,  or  paring  down, 
the  natural  gut  between  diamond  plates  to  great 
fineness.  Drawn  gut  is  mostly  used  by  British  "dry- 
fly"  anglers  (see  Trout-Fishing),  whose  tackle,  except 
the  rod,  is  of  extreme  delicacy.  It  is  much 
weaker  than  natural  gut  and  is  only  recommended 
for  use  in  quiet  water  where  there  is  plenty  of  room 
to  humour  the  fish. 

(Reckoning  probably  on  the  general  ignorance  of  the 
average  American  angler,  most  of  our  dealers  have  adopted 


210  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

a  nomenclature  for  the  sizes  of  gut  which  is  quite  senseless, 
since  the  term  "trout-size,"  for  example,  may  mean  one 
thing  to  one  fisherman  and  something  much  heavier  to 
another.  There  is  no  advantage  and  much  resulting  con- 
fusion in  abandoning  the  terms  by  which  the  different  sizes 
are  known  in  the  British  market,  to  which  ninety  per  cent 
of  all  gut  goes  and  where  the  American  dealers  buy  theirs.) 


The  reason  that  the  British  are  addicted  to  much 
more  delicate  leaders  than  we  lies  in  the  comparative 
serenity  of  their  waters,  where  they  do  not 
have  to  fight  both  the  fish  and  the  rapids 
as  is  often  the  case  with  us.  Nevertheless  Americans 
generally  use  too  heavy  gut  for  trout,  in  most  cases 
strong  enough  to  hold  a  salmon.  On  brawling  streams, 
especially  when  swollen  in  early  spring,  a  strong 
leader  is  a  necessity,  but  one  of  " Regular"  gut  with 
"Padron"  upper  half  will  hold  the  biggest  trout 
that  swims,  provided  it  be  of  good  quality.  For 
my  own  part  I  confess  to  a  leaning  towards  very 
light  leaders  ("Fina"  and  "Refina"),  the  object 
being  to  give  the  fish  all  the  chance  possible.  (This 
gut  I  have  nearly  always  been  obliged  to  get  directly 
from  England,  as  our  dealers  do  not  commonly  keep 
it  in  stock.)  The  British  make  the  mistake  of  using  too 
heavy  rods  with  delicate  tackle.  Why  should  we  go 
to  the  opposite  extreme  and  attach  salmon  leaders 
to  lines  thrown  by  light  rods?  Mr.  Wells  says  (Fly- 
Rods  and  Fly-Tackle): 

4 'The  strain  imposed  upon  a  leader,  even  by  the  largest 
trout,  is  generally  greatly  overestimated.  A  leader  that 
will  endure  five  pounds  steady  strain  with  a  spring-balance 
will,  when  backed  by  the  elasticity  of  a  fair  rod,  resist  the 
utmost  effort  of  the  largest  trout  that  swims  the  Rangeley 
Lakes." 


Fishing  211 

In  any  case  buy  the  lightest  trout-leaders  your 
dealer  keeps. 

For  stream  work  the  leader  should  be  six  to  seven 
feet  long.  For  fishing  open,  quiet  water  it  may  be 
nine  feet,  except  with  a  short  rod,  for  the 
leader  should  in  no  case  be  longer  than 
the  rod,  or  the  knot  at  the  junction  of  line  and  leader 
will  for  ever  be  getting  caught  in  the  tip-ring,  to  the 
vexation  of  the  angler.  Nor,  with  too  long  a  leader, 
will  you  be  able  to  get  your  fish  near  enough  to  net, 
for  the  bend  of  the  rod  enables  the  victim  to  keep 
at  a  greater  distance.  It  follows  that  a  ninerfoot 
rod  should  not  be  used  with  a  leader  more  than 
seven  feet  long. 

Innumerable  experiments  have  been  made  with  a 
view  to  ascertaining  what  colour  of  gut  is  the  least 
conspicuous  to  the  eye  of  a  fish,  and  the  c  j  uf 
discussion  goes  merrily  on.  Nowadays 
most  ready-made  leaders  are  stained  a  "mist,"  or 
pale  grey,  colour  as  being  neutral,  and  this  is  perhaps 
as  good  as  anything;  but,  while  it  behooves  the 
modest  man  to  keep  an  open  mind  on  such  subjects, 
I  confess  that  I  have  lately  come  to  the  conclusion 
that  it  is  best  to  leave  the  gut  in  its  natural  colourless 
state,  for  the  reason  that,  once  in  the  water,  it  takes 
on  and  reflects  the  colouring  of  the  surrounding  ele- 
ment ;  in  other  words  it  is  apt  to  become  practically 
a  part  of  the  water  in  tint,  while  stained  gut  remains 
constant  to  itself  and  hence  is  more  conspicuous. 
Neither  does  staining  improve  the  quality  of  the  gut. 
Leaders  in  several  tints  may  be  had  of  dealers.  Of 
course  if  one  fishes  waters  that  are  habitually  slightly 


212  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

coloured,  such,  for  example,  as  those  of  southern 
Nova  Scotia,  the  leader  may  be  tinted  to  match ;  in 
this  case  a  pale  yellow  by  soaking  in  strong  coffee. 

Unless  specially  ordered,  most  American  leaders, 
if  nine  feet  long,  are  furnished,  at  certain  points  be- 
tween the  two  ends,  with  two  loops  to  which 
a  second  and  a  third  fly  may  be  knotted, 
the  general  run  of  fishermen,  especially  the  non- 
expert class,  using  three  flies  together,  a  habit  repre- 
hensible in  many  eyes,  since  it  approaches  the  use  of 
the  drag-net.  And  it  may  be  said  that,  though  many 
excellent  anglers  habitually  use  two  flies,  the  "  simon- 
pure"  sportsman,  who  has  risen  from  the  lower 
forms  of  the  fish-hog  through  the  slightly  higher 
class  of  creel-fillers  and  record-boasters,  finally  to 
become  an  alumnus  of  the  " College  of  Pure  Angling," 
uses  one  fly  only  and  hence  has  no  desire  for  loops 
on  his  leaders.  However  let  us  not  be  Pharisaical, 
but  close  an  eye  to  the  use  of  one  dropper-fly,  if 
only  for  the  pleasure  (perhaps  after  a  surfeit  of 
fishing)  of  hooking  and  landing  a  pair  at  one  cast, 
an  experience  which  has  its  exciting  and  legitimate 
joys.  The  loop  for  the  dropper  should  be  placed 
at  least  thirty  inches  (better  three  feet)  from  the 
tail-fly  (stretcher-fly)  loop.  If  you  will  persist  in 
using  three  flies — but  no,  let  us  not  contemplate 
even  the  possibility  of  this! 

To  the  stout  end  of  the  leader  is  tied  a  small  loop  for 
attaching  the  line,  and,  if,  as  usual  here,  flies  tied 
on  gut  are  used,  a  larger  loop  is  provided  at  the 
finer  end  for  attaching  the  fly-loops.  If  small-eyed 
flies  (without  gut)  are  used  the  leader  end  is  left 
without  a  loop,  the  fly  being  attached  by  some  kind 


Fishing 


213 


FIG.  35. — Angler's  Knot 


of  knot.  (See  under  Flies.)  One  practical  way  to 
make  up  tapered  leaders  is  to  buy  a  number  of  two 
and  three-foot  leaders  of  different  thicknesses  and 
loops  at  each  end,  and  loop  them  together  as  desired. 

Holding  the  leader-loop  between  the  thumb  and 
forefinger  of  the  left  hand,  pass  the  end  of  the  line 
up  through  the  loop  for  an  inch  and  a  half,  Attaching 
cross  it  over  itself  with  the  end  pointed  Leader 
from  you,  and  then  press  the  middle  of  the  free 
end  round  under  and  up 
through  itself,  forming  a  knot 
which  is  now  drawn  tight  by 
holding  with  the  left  fingers 
and  pulling  the  line  with  the 
right  hand.  This  is  the  usual 
and  a  very  good  method. 
(See  Figure  35.) 

Another  way:  Pass  the  end     ,., 

FIG.  36.— Another  Leader 
of  the  line  through  the  loop,   Knot. 

then   round    it,    and    finally 

under  itself.     Haul  tight.    In  this  case  a  knot  in  th  j 

end  of  the  line  ensures  added  security.     (See  Figure 

36.) 

In  all  cases  the  smaller  the  knot  the  neater  and 
better. 

Leaders  are  kept  coiled  in  boxes  of  metal,  either 
round  or  rounded  oblong  in  shape,  costing  from  $.25 
to  $1.00.  They  contain  two  or  more  Leader- 
sheets  of  felt  between  which,  moistened,  boxes 
the  leaders  lie.  For  storing  purposes  the  boxes  should 
be  of  some  strong  material,  but  to  carry  a  few  extra 
leaders  in  the  pocket  the  little  $.25  aluminum  box 


214  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

is  just  the  thing.  When  likely  to  be  used  the  felt 
should  be  kept  well  moistened,  to  soften  the  gut  and 
render  it  perfectly  flexible,  as  insufficiently  moistened 
gut  is  very  easily  injured,  with  the  result  that  it 
frays  or  cracks  and  then  breaks  with  a  moderate  pull. 
Moistening  gut  does  not  render  it  stronger,  on  the 
contrary  its  tensile  strength  is  weakened  by  some 
twenty  per  cent,  by  the  process,  but  it  does  make  it 
pliable  and  less  liable  to  injury.  Always  examine  a 
leader  closely  before  using,  and  exchange  it  for  another 
if  the  slightest  fraying  or  cracking  is  discovered.  A 
weak  strand  can  be  replaced  at  leisure  by  a  fresh  one. 

Fishermen  are  for  several  reasons  recommended 
to  make  their  own  leaders,  an  easy  and  amusing 
How  to  task  after  a  little  practice.  Especially  is  it 
Make  profitable  for  those  who  do  not  care  to  be 

bound  by  the  stereotyped  patterns  offered  by  the 
dealers.  One  can  make  any  style  and  length  to  suit 
one's  taste.  Gut,  stained  or  unstained,  can  be  had 
from  the  dealers  in  the  hank  of  one  hundred  strands. 
Consult  the  catalogues  of  Abbey  &  Imbrie  and  Aber- 
crombie  &  Fitch  of  New  York  (the  former  firm 
preserves  the  original  names  of  the  several  sizes). 
Canadians  can  import  directly  from  Hardy  Brothers, 
Alnwick,  England,  and  save  a  portion  of  the  cost. 

Carefully  select  the  strands  for  each  leader  according 
to  thickness  and  length,  having  decided  upon  the 
length  and  style.  The  leader  should  taper  gently 
from  thick  to  thin  end,  a  fact  to  be  kept  in  mind 
while  choosing  the  strands,  which  are  coiled  loosely 
together  and  put  to  soak  overnight  in  tepid  soft 
water  (distilled  is  best),  which  will  render  them 


Fishing  215 

soft  and  pliable.  A  couple  of  hours  in  warm,  not 
hot,  water  will  often  be  enough  but  overnight  is 
better,  as  the  strands  will  then  be  softer  and  the  knots 
will  prove  closer  and  stronger.  Begin  by  doubling  back 
on  itself  the  thick  end  of  the  heaviest  strand  Single 

far  enough  to  tie  a  very  small  loop  (common  Water -knot 
knot).  It  need  only  be  large  enough  to  allow  the 
line  to  pass  through.  Draw  as  taut  as  possible  by 
inserting  a  lead-pencil  and  pulling  steadily  on  the 
strand  and  the  loose  end,  which  need  not  be  trimmed 
off  until  the  complete  leader  has  been  tied.  Next 
tie  a  single  loose  knot  in  the  other  end  of  the  strand, 
only  about  J  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  as  near  the 
end  as  the  quality  of  the  gut  will  warrant,  being  care- 
ful not  to  include  any  part  that  is  flat  or  otherwise 
imperfect.  Take  the  second  thickest  strand,  thrust 
its  thicker  end  through  the  loose  knot  just  tied,  and 
tie  with  this  end  a  second  knot  round  the  top  strand. 
The  two  strands  will  then  appear  like  this : 

Draw  the  two  loops  pretty  tight  and  then  pull  them 
together    by    drawing 
on  the  two  long  ends, 
so  that  they  form  one 

compact    knot,    called 

.    .  FIG.  37.— Detail  of  Single  Water- 

the         single       water-   Knot 

knot."     When   joined 

pull  steadily  and  strongly  on  the  strands  and  the 
two  untrimmed  ends  until  the  knot  seems  perfect. 
This  process  is  repeated  with  each  new  strand 
until  the  leader  has  attained  its  destined  length, 
when  all  projecting  ends  are  trimmed  off  with 
the  scissors  as  closely  as  possible  to  the  knots. 
For  snelled  flies  a  loop,  large  enough  for  the  fly 
to  pass  through,  is  tied  at  the  end  of  the  thinnest 


2 1 6  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

strand.      For    eyed    flies    the    end    is   left   without 
a  loop. 

Instead  of  the  single  knot  many  prefer  the  "double 
water-knot,"  especially  for  thin  gut,  which  pulls 
Double  out  more  easily.  It  is  made  like  the 
Water -knot  single  knot,  except  that  the  short  end  is 
passed  twice  round  the  other  long  part  instead  of 

once,  and  then  through 
both  loops  thus  formed. 
Mr.  Wells  recommended 

FIG.  38.— Double  Water-Knot  tne  single  knot  for  or- 
dinary gut,  and  I  can 
testify  from  long  experience  that,  if  the  gut  is  well 
soaked  and  closely  tied,  it  is  quite  satisfactory. 
For  drawn  gut  the  double  knot  is  preferable,  as 
it  is  stronger  and  the  bulk  is  not  much  increased. 

The  leader  we  have  just  made  contains  no  loop  for 
a  dropper-fly,  which  may  be  attached  in  two  ways. 
Dropper-          i.     Having   determined  at  which   knot 
loop  the  dropper  shall  be  placed,  we  do  not  make 

a  water-knot  as  above  at  this  place,  but  tie  in  each 
end  a  simple  loop  and  then 
join  as  in  the  cut.  To  put  on 
the  fly,  push  the  loops  apart 

and   insert  the  snell  of  the  fly 
FIG.  39. — Loop-Knot  for 
Dropper-Fly  (with  a  knot  at  its  end  or  its 

regular  loop  to  prevent  slipping 

through) ;  then  pull  the  loops  together  again.  This 
enables  the  angler  to  change  his  dropper  with  ease 
and  celerity.  If  he  wishes  to  use  an  eyed  fly  for  a 
dropper  he  must  attach  to  it  a  short  snell  of  gut  with 
a  knot  in  the  end.  (Fig.  39.) 


Fishing  2 1 7 

2 .  At  the  place  where  we  wish  to  place  the  dropper, 
and  before  the  water-knot  is  drawn  taut,  we  insert 
a  short  piece  of  gut  with  a  common  knot  in  one  end 
and  a  £  inch  loop  in  the  other.  Then  draw  the  water- 
knot  tight.  The  dropper-loop  need  not  be  over  an 
inch  or  so  long,  as  the  fly  will  be  far  enough  from  the 
leader  by  reason  of  its  own  snell. 

Having  made  our  leader  we  now  proceed  to  test 
its  strength.  Soak  well.  Fasten  the  thick  end  to 
some  smooth  projection,  as  a  hook,  and  Testing 
the  other  to  a  pocket  balance  scales,  which 
are  held  in  the  hand  and  strained  steadily  until  the 
leader  either  breaks  or  the  scales  register  a  satisfactory 
strength.  If  the  leader  stands  the  test  do  not  repeat 
it,  as  the  gut  is  weakened  by  the  process.  A  five- 
pound  strain  is  enough  to  test  any  trout-leader,  for 
a  trout  pulls  very  little  over  its  own  weight  in  smooth 
water,  and  in  rapids  he  must  be  humoured  to  some 
extent.  For  very  light  leaders  a  strain  of  2^  pounds 
is  sufficient.  If  the  leader  breaks  before  it  should, 
repair  and  retest.  When  satisfactory  coil  loosely 
and  put  away  with  a  label  pasted  round  it,  containing 
a  record  of  the  strain  it  can  bear. 

(To  attach  flies  to  leaders,  see  under  Flies.) 

Though  not  an  advocate  of  coloured  leaders,  I 
append  the  following  hints  for  those  who  To  Dye 
are.  All  boiling  is  best  done  in  earthenware  pots. 

Neutral  Grey:  Boil  for  five  minutes  or  so  a  drachm  of 
ground  logwood  and  six  grains  of  powdered  copperas.  Re- 
move from  fire  and  immerse  the  gut  for  two  or  three  minutes, 
fishing  it  out  every  minute  to  see  whether  sufficiently  dark. 


2i8  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

When  the  required  shade  is  obtained  wash  in  cold  water. 
(Chitty-Norris-Wells.) 

Grey:  Immerse  in  pure  black  ink  and  cold  water,  half  and 
half,  until  the  right  shade  is  obtained.  Ink  corrodes  gut 
least. 

Green:  "Boil  green  baize  in  water,  and  when  this  is  well 
charged  with  colour,  and  still  warm,  immerse  the  gut  therein 
until  sufficiently  dyed."  (F.  Francis.) 

Yellow:  See  above  under  Colour. 

Flies 

Artificial  flies  are  generally  supposed  to  be  more 
or  less  accurate  imitations  of  natural  winged  insects, 
for  which  they  are  taken  by  game  fish;  and  this  is 
no  doubt  true  of  some  waters  and  of  some  flies,  par- 
ticularly in  regions  which  have  been  fished  for  many 
years,  where  the  kinds  of  food  are  few,  and  where  the 
trout  have  become  "educated,"  as  in  England  and 
some  parts  of  this  continent.  Here  the  flies  are  made 
to  imitate  the  natural  flies  on  the  water  as  closely 
as  possible,  as,  for  example,  those  most  used  in 
Pennsylvania  and  southern  New  York,  and  in  a  still 
greater  degree  on  the  clear  chalk  streams  of  England, 
where  the  brown  trout  (salmo  jario)  is  lured  with 
the  daintiest  of  flies  made  to  imitate  both  sexes  of  the 
insects  common  to  those  waters,  for  on  the  other  side 
of  the  water  a  knowledge  of  angling  entomology  is  as 
common  as  our  general  dense  ignorance  on  the  same 
subject,  not  one  American  angler  in  fifty  being  able 
to  name  correctly  a  single  living  fly  found  on  trout 
waters;  in  fact  it  is  doubtful  whether  there  are  fifty 
in  the  whole  country  who  can  do  it,  exception  being 
made  of  one  or  two  of  the  commonest  kinds.  The 
result  is  that  there  are  no  artificial  flies  tied  in  this 
country  that  can  rival  British  ' '  dry-flies ' '  in  workman- 


Fishing  219 

ship.  One  reason  for  this  is  the  ignorance  just  men- 
tioned and  the  consequent  lack  of  demand,  but  a 
still  more  important  one  lies  in  the  fact  that  our 
beautiful  brook-trout  (salvelinus  jontinalis)  refuses 
as  a  very  general  rule  to  take  any  lure  which  floats 
as  if  dead  on  the  surface  of  the  water  (May-flies 
are  about  the  only  exception).  The  artificial  fly 
must  therefore  be  kept  in  motion,  and  its  workman- 
ship is  of  less  importance,  since  its  details  cannot  be 
so  distinctly  seen  by  the  fish  as  if  it  floated  motionless. 

Volumes  have  been  written  on  the  question,  "For 
what  do  trout  take  the  artificial  fly?"  and  various 
have  been  the  answers,  the  majority  inclining  to  the 
belief  that  it  is  taken  solely  for  the  natural  insect 
which  it  purports  to  represent.  Others  say  "minnows" ; 
others  still  "both."  To  my  mind  all  these  opinions 
are  correct  though  in  different  places  and  at  different 
times.  Usually  in  quiet,  much  fished  waters  they 
do  take  the  fly  for  the  real  insect;  farther  north, 
especially  when  large  and  submerged,  for  a  minnow, 
and  again  for  something  else.  But,  in  spite  of  the 
"nature  fakers,"  no  American  trout  ever  passed  an 
examination  in  entomology,  and  I  am  sure  that 
when  a  hungry  trout  rises  to  the  fly  he  is  not 
in  a  comparative  or  analytic  mood;  he  simply 
sees  something  that  looks  good  to  eat  and  goes  for  it! 
Especially  is  this  the  case  in  the  north  woods  where 
trout  feed  on  a  multiplicity  of  foods,  and  where  their 
habit,  as  any  experienced  angler  knows,  is  to  attack 
anything  that  looks  edible.  Who  has  not  seen  a 
trout  take  into  his  mouth  innumerable  small  objects, 
from  artificial  flies  to  maple-buds,  and  immediately 
eject  them  after  trial  of  their  character? 

That    he    cannot    possibly   recognise    the    natural 


220  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

insects  upon  which  he  feeds  in  the  lures  which  are 
generally  cast  over  him  is  shown  by  a  glance  at  such 
favourite  northern  flies  as  the  Silver-Doctor,  Par- 
machenee-Belle,  or  Jenny-Lind,  mere  fanciful  com- 
binations of  colour  bearing  no  resemblance  to  any 
living  creature.  The  English  angler  with  the  floating 
" dry-fly"  begins  operations  by  observing  upon  what 
insect  the  fish  are  feeding,  selects  then  from  his 
dry-fly  box  the  fly  made  in  imitation  of  that  insect, 
casts  it  lightly  just  above  a  trout  that  has  risen,  and 
allows  it  to  float  down  over  the  fish.  It  is  possible 
that  this  method,  which  is  a  very  fascinating  and 
scientific  form  of  angling,  would  be  crowned  with 
success  in  some  parts  of  our  country  if  we  only 
possessed  flies  tied  in  exact  imitation  of  our  native 
Ephemera,  which  we  have  not, — a  fact  not  com- 
plimentary to  the  enterprise  of  our  tackle-makers. 
In  northern  waters,  and  using  English  flies,  I  have 
always  found  dry-fly  fishing  a  failure  compared  with 
the  wet,  lively  fly  method,  undoubtedly  for  the 
already  mentioned  reason  that  our  brook-trout 
ignores  most  dead  baits,  at  least  on  the  surface.  Our 
northern  waters  are  generally  somewhat  discoloured 
and  mostly  running,  and  the  gaudiness  of  the  highly 
coloured  flies  enables  them  to  be  the  more  easily 
seen. 

Another  ancient  and  classic  dispute  is  that  between 
the  "colourists"  and  the  "  formalists,"  as  to  whether 
colour  or  shape  is  the  more  important  in  a  fly.  One 
man,  asserting  that  shape  was  quite  secondary, 
fished  all  day  with  a  bunch  of  red  worsted  tied  to  a 
hook  and  took  a  lot  of  fish,  while  in  England  a  well- 
known  angler,  Sir  H.  Maxwell,  made  just  the  op- 
posite statement,  and  threw  the  dry-fly  purists,  to 


Fishing  221 

whom  the  slightest  shades  of  colour  are  as  important 
as  Magna  Charta,  into  confusion  by  taking  fish  after 
fish  with  flies  of  the  regulation  dry-fly  pattern, 
stained  however  a  brilliant  red  and  blue!  One  may 
say  in  general  that  the  rougher  and  more  opaque 
the  water,  the  more  important  does  colour  become. 
Most  orthodox  anglers  may  be  described  as  "colour- 
ist-formalists,"  believing  in  the  importance  of  both 
elements. 

The  books  are  by  no  means  closed  upon  all  these 
interesting  questions,  and  every  one  has  aright  to  an 
opinion,  so  long  as  it  is  founded  on  experience  and 
reason.  In  the  matter  of  the  choice  of  flies  there  is 
but  one  sound  rule:  lay  in  a  stock  of  those  which 
pass  for  the  best  in  the  region  where  you  intend  to 
fish,  adding  to  it  then  according  to  fancy. 

Of  the  "dry,"  or  exact  imitation  flies,  mentioned 
above,  made  with  quill,  straw,  or  cork  bodies,  so 
that  they  wrill  float,  none  are  tied  in  this 
country.  J.  Harrington  Keene  (whose 
death  last  year  every  angler  will  regret)  used  to  tie, 
assisted  by  Mrs.  Keene,  an  exact  imitation,  scale- 
wing,  detached-body  fly,  but  the  ignorance  of  ento- 
mology on  the  part  of  our  fishermen  prevented  their 
taking  enough  interest  in  it  to  make  it  pay,  and  the 
dealers  therefore  dropped  it,  more  's  the  pity.  Exact 
imitations  of  several  insects,  as  the  stone-fly,  bee, 
etc.,  are  made  of  soft  rubber,  but  are  indifferently 
turned  out  and  hardly  worth  trying  for  trout. 

Of  wet  flies  we  have  the  winged,  the  hackles,  and 
palmers. 

The  ordinary  pattern  of  winged  fly  is  tied  on  an 


222  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

eyed  or  snelled  hook,  and  consists  of  head,  body,  tag, 
Winged  wings,  tail,  and  hackle,  some  flies  being 
Flies  without  one  or  more  of  these  parts.  The 

hackle  is  supposed  to  represent  the  insect's  legs» 
moving  with  the  motion  of  the  water  and  thus 
rendering  the  fly  attractive  to  the  fish. 

The    wings    of   American    flies    are    usually    made 
11  reversed,"  i.e.,  they  are  placed, 
in  making,  on  the  hook  pointing 
towards  the  eye  or    snell,  and 
then,  after  the  hackle  has  been 
tied   on,   they  are  reversed,  so 
that  they   point   back  towards 
FIG.  4o.-WingedFly,  the  "business  end"  of  the  hook, 
with  Helper  nv.  •        •  ,1  -,  -, 

This  gives  strength   and  makes 

a  head  for  the  fly.  The  tag  is  a  narrow  binding  of 
herl,  feather,  or  silk  at  the  junction  of  body  and  tail. 
"Double-winged  flies"  are  provided  with  two  pairs 
of  wings. 

Hackles  are  wingless  flies  with  the  hackle  secured 
at  the  head.  Palmers  are  similar,  except  that  the 
Hackles;  hackle  extends  the  whole  length  of  the 
Palmers  body.  Both  are  excellent  lures,  as  they 
keep  their  shape  in  the  water  better  than  ordinary 
winged  flies,  the  wings  of  which  generally  cling  closely 
to  the  body  when  drawn  through  the  water,  whereas 
the  natural  insect  more  often  spreads  its  wings  when 
shipwrecked  and  afloat. 

The  old  method  of  securing  the  artificial  fly  to  the 
leader  was  by  means  of  a  snell  of  gut  whipped  to  a 
straight-shanked  hook,  and  this  is  still  universal 
in  this  country,  the  best  flies  being  tied  with  "help- 


Fishing  223 

ers, "  or  double  gut  next  the  hook,  to  give  strength. 
The  loop  in  the  end  of  the  snell  is  passed  over 
the  loop  of  the  leader  and  the  fly 
through  the  leader-loop.  About  twenty 
years  ago  eyed  hooks  for  flies  came  into  use  in  England 
and  are  now  practically  universal,  the  common  pattern 
having  the  turn-down  eye.  The  eyed-hook  fly  may  be 
directly  attached  to  the  leader  by  a  knot,  or  a  looped 
snell  may  be  first  attached  to  the  fly  and  that  to 
the  leader,  like  the  ordinary  American  fly.  There 
are  several  knots  for  attaching  eyed  hooks  to  the 
leader. 

Jam-Knot.      Holding   the   fly   with   the   hook-eye 
turned  upwards,  pass  the  well- 
softened  leader  end  through  the      ' 

eye  towards  the  point  and  then 
J  FIG.  41. — Jam-Knot 

back  upon  itself;  then  make  a 

slip-knot  round  the  body  of  the  leader.  Draw  this 
slip-knot  small  and  then  back  to  the  eye,  so  that  it 
will  just  pass  over  the  eye;  draw  the  slip-knot  tight 
in  that  position.  Clip  off  extra  gut-end.  (Figure  41.) 

Double-Hitch  Knot.  Pass  the  leader-end  through 
the  eye  towards  the  point  of  the  hook,  then  twice 
round  the  shank  and  tighten.  This  is  not  so  se- 
cure as  the  jam-knot  or  the  following  Turle-Knot. 

Turle-Knot.  Holding  the  fly  as  before,  pass  the 
leader-end  through  the  eye  and  run  the  hook  out  of 
the  way  several  inches  up  the  leader;  make  a  slip- 
knot with  the  leader-end  round  the  leader  itself 
and  draw  tight,  leaving  a  loop,  which  is  then  passed 
over  the  hook  and  drawn  tight.  (Figure  42.) 

The  beginner  need  not  worry  about  the  form  of 
his  fly-hooks,  as  long  as  he  patronises  a  reputable 


224  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

dealer,  as  any  of  the  common  patterns  will  do, 
providing  the  quality  is  good.  The  favourite  styles 
Shape  of  are  the  Sproat,  Pennell,  O'Shaughnessy, 
Hook  Limerick,  Carlisle,  Perfect,  and  Sneck. 

Most  English  flies,  especially  small  ones,  are  tied 
on  Pennell  or  Sneck  hooks. 


Fig.  42. — Turle-Knot 

There  are  now  several  standards  of  measurement 
for  fly-hooks,  but  the  old  one  may  be  adhered  to, 
Sizes  of  as  the  dealers  know  it  and  will  furnish 
Hooks  flies  according  to  it,  even  when  the  particu- 
lar style  of  hook  has  a  different  standard. 

In  Great  Britain,  where  every  trout  water  has 
been  fished  for  many  years,  you  will  find  lists  of 
P  tt  rn  favourite  flies,  not  only  for  every  stream 

but  for  every  fishing  month  in  the  year. 
In  our  vast  country,  piscatorially  including  the 
Dominion,  the  making  of  such  a  list  would  be  a  very 
"large  order"  indeed,  though  we  have  already  made 
a  beginning.  The  trouts  of  America  differ  to  such 
an  extent  in  their  predilections,  and  even  the  individ- 
uals of  the  same  species  in  different  waters,  that  it  is  a 
difficult  task  to  give  lists  of  spring,  summer,  and 
autumn  flies  that  shall  not  be  too  general  to  be  of 
much  value.  As  this  book  is  primarily  meant  for 
g.  sojourners  in  northern  waters,  our  task  is 

somewhat  simpler.  There,  in  spring,  when 
the  freshets  change  even  quiet  streams  into  torrents 


Fishing  225 

and  tinge  the  waters  with  colour,  larger  flies  may  be 
used  than  later,  when  the  same  waters  have  resumed 
their  wonted  serenity  and  limpidity.  Thus  in  spring 
flies  tied  on  No.  6  hooks  are  often  not  too  large  for 
Maine  or  Canada,  and  No.  4  is  not  unknown.  In 
summer  No.  8  is  large  enough  and  Nos.  10  and  12 
much  used,  with  14  for  very  clear,  quiet  waters. 
Large  flies  are  justifiable  in  rapid,  swirling,  or  foamy 
streams,  as  they  can  be  more  easily  seen  by  the  fish. 
The  ancient  rule  says  that  bright  flies  take 
best  on  dark  days  and  dark  flies  on  bright 
days,  and  this  is  in  the  main  true, — with  the  excep- 
tions that  always  obtain  in  all  departments  of  the 
art  of  angling. 

As  to  the  value  of  a  given  fly  at  different  seasons 
and  in  different  places,  the  evidence  is  very  con- 
flicting and  as  yet  not  voluminous  enough,  for  the 
reason  that  our  anglers  have  not  taken  the  trouble 
to  make  and  publish  exact  records  of  the  flies  they 
have  used,  or  of  the  insects  on  which  the  fish  have  been 
feeding.  Our  trout  too  seem  to  be  more  fickle  than 
those  of  the  old  world,  one  reason  for  this  being  the 
more  extensive  menu  of  our  fish.  There  is  no  hard 
and  fast  rule.  Who,  for  example,  has  not  discovered 
that  the  fly  which  was  the  best  killer  last  season 
seemed  to  be  somewhat  out  of  date  this,  either  from 
a  difference  in  the  depth  or  character  of  the  water 
or  a  caprice  of  the  trout? 

The  tendency  of  beginners  is  to  choose  flies  tied 
on  too  large  hooks.  Stick  to  No.  8,  with  No.  6  for 
turbulent  waters  and  No.  10  where  the  fish  are  small; 
after  a  season  or  two  you  will  have  ideas  of  your 
own  on  the  subject.  Remember  that  the  smaller 
the  fly  the  lighter  the  leader  should  be.  If  your  line 


226  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

is  not  tapered  the  leader  should  be  as  long  as  possible 
when  using  a  small  fly.  On  waters  such  as  those  of 
Pennsylvania  or  Connecticut,  No.  10  and  12  hooks 
are  large  enough.  In  the  mountains  of  the  West  the 
same  general  rules  apply  as  in  our  north  woods. 

The  following  lists  of  flies  are  offered,  not  as  the 
best,  for  opinions,  even  among  good  anglers,  differ 
Suggested  widely  on  this  subject,  but  as  working 
Lists  bases.  They  are  supposed  to  be  answers 

to  the  question:  "What  three  dozen  flies  shall  I 
take  with  me?" 

Eastern  Canada,  Northern  New  England  and  New  York,  etc., 
Spring  Flies 

6  each:  Silver-Doctor,    Parmachenee-Belle,    Brown    Hackle 

(red  body). 
4  each:  Montreal,  Jungle-Cock,  Brown  Hackle  (herl  body). 

3  each:  Coachman,  Professor. 

Substitutes:  Jock-Scott,  Grey  Hackle,  Black  Hackle,  March- 
Brown,  Jenny-Lind,  Alder,  Doctor  Breck,  Brown 
Palmer,  Grey  Palmer. 

For  summer  in  the  same  regions  may  be  added:  Red-Ibis, 
Royal-Coachman. 

For  autumn  the  spring  flies  will  do. 

Southern  New  England,  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  and  South 

4  each:   Red-Spinner,    Black    Gnat,    Brown     Palmer,     Red 

Hackle,  Silver-Doctor,  Beaverkill,  Cahill,  March- 
Brown,  Alder,  Cowdung. 

Substitutes:  Grey  Drake,  Cinnamon,  Yellow-bodied  Pro- 
fessor, Black  Hackle,  Brown  Hackle  (herl  body). 

For  the  more  southerly  regions  however  the  makers 
are  beginning,  oh,  so  slowly!  to  tie  flies  in  exact  imita- 
tion of  the  Ephemeridae  there  found  on  the  waters, 
and  the  next  few  years  will  see  a  great  advance  in  this 


Fishing  227 

particular.  Those  wishing  special  patterns  in  flies 
can  have  them  tied,  if  not  competent  themselves, 
by  sending  the  patterns  to  some  reputable  maker 
such  as  C.  F.  Or  vis,  of  Manchester,  Vt.,  Abbey  & 
Imbrie,  Abercrombie  &  Fitch,  or  Mrs.  J.  H.  Keene. 
The  last-named,  widow  of  the  lamented  angling 
author,  ties  only  to  special  order  and  her  flies  are  of 
exquisite  workmanship.  (Address:  Queens,  L.  I., 
N.  Y.) 

As  there  are  some  hundreds  of  patterns  of  trout- 
flies  mentioned  in  the  dealers'  catalogues,  about  forty 
to  fifty  of  which  are  in  common  use,  it  is  evident  that 
such  lists  as  the  above  can  have  only  a  comparative 
value.  They  contain,  however,  most  of  the  popular 
patterns,  as  recommended  by  the  leading  authorities. 
But  before  buying  it  is  well  to  consult  some  angler 
who  has  had  experience  in  the  waters  chosen,  as 
there  are  always  local  conditions  of  importance  to 
learn. 

Flies  in  quantities  are  best  kept,  if  on  gut  snells, 
in  stout  envelopes  (parchment  best),  one  pattern  in 
each,  with  the  snells  in   as  loose  coils  as 
possible.    Shake  a  little  powdered  camphor 
into  each  envelope,  which  should  be  marked  with  the 
name  of  the  fly.     The  envelopes  are  then  stored  in 
the  trays  of  the  tackle-box  or  elsewhere  safe  from 
moths. 

The  best  receptacle  for  eyed  flies  consists  of  sheets 
of  cork  fixed  in  boxes  so  deep  that  the  flies  may  stand 
upright  without  touching  the  sides.    Beau- 
tiful though  high-priced  boxes  of  tin  and 
leather  are  made  by  the   British  and   sold  in  this 


228 


The  Way  of  the  Woods 


country.  They  run  from  the  little  rosewood  or 
japanned  boxes  containing  from  60  to  150  flies  up  to 
the  luxurious  $40.00  cabinets  fitted  with  moth-proof 

trays.    A  pocket  eyed- 

fly  box  of  good  work- 
manship costs  from 
$2.50  upwards.  (A 
cheap  and  somewhat 
crude  one  is  made  by 
Abbey  &  Imbrie  for 

$  .350 

Eyed  flies  of  the 
regular  "wet"  shape, 
which  can  be  stored 
flat  without  injury,  are  generally  carried  in  flat 
boxes  or  leather  books  furnished  with  clips  to 
which  the  hooks  are  secured.  (Price  of  boxes, 
$2.50  to  $7.00.) 

The  dainty  English  dry- 
flies  are  kept  either  in  a 
cork  box,  as  above,  or  in 
metal  boxes  provided  with 
several  small  compart- 
ments, one  for  each  fly. 
(English  price,  $2.00.) 


FIG.  43. — Eyed-Fly  Box 


FIG.  44. — Bar  and  Clip  Fly- 
Book 


Fly-books 


The    supply    of   snelled 
flies  for  actual  use  on  the 
stream  is  carried 

in  a   fly-book,  which  should  be   of  stout 
leather  (canvas  in  cheaper  grades).     A  good  pigskin 
fly-book   will   wear   out   half    a    dozen   "cheap  and 
nasty"  ones,  though  it  will  cost  from  $5.00  to  $7.00. 
Among    the    various    patent    fly-books    exploited 


Fishing  229 

by  the  American  dealers  are  the  "Bray,"  the 
" Chubb,"  the  "Monarch,"  and  the  "Bar  and  Centre- 
Clip,"  the  last  of  which  appeals  most  to  me,  though 
it  is  not  made  in  very  high-grade  leather.  Better 
than  all,  though  expensive,  is  the  "Levison"  book, 
the  only  one  the  mechanism  of  which  holds  the  fly 
absolutely  fast. 

There  is  now  on  the  market  a  convenient  aluminum 
or  ebonite  box,  the  "DeWitt,"  furnished  with  felt 
pads  and  gratings,  which  keep  the  snells  of  the  flies 
wet  and  the  hooks  dry.  It  costs  but  $  .75,  and  is  an 
excellent  article  to  have.  In  copper  it  costs  even 
less. 

A  cast,  in  piscatorial  parlance,  is  a  leader  ready- 
furnished  with  one  or  more  flies,  combinations  known 
to  be  killing  on  certain  waters.  For  these 
special  flat  cases  of  leather  with  canvas 
covers  and  parchment  or  celluloid  leaves  can  be  had, 
very  convenient  to  carry  in  the  pocket.  One  with 
pigskin  covers  costs  $1.50. 

Keep  flies  from  moth  and  rust  and  do  not  crush 
them.  Wipe  the  hooks  with  an  oiled  rag  before 
storing  away.  If  put  in  the  book  wet  Care  of 
they  will  rust  and  hurt  both  fly  and  gut.  Flies 

One  of  the  joys  of  angling  is  the  annual  pre-vernal 
overhauling  of  the  tackle  and  particularly  the  flies, 
which  are  laid  out,  counted,  and  sorted  again  in  their 
books  and  boxes.  Frayed  snells  are  replaced,  the 
old  veterans  segregated,  and,  the  chief  delight,  lists 
made  of  new  flies  to  be  purchased. 

Landing-Nets 

Nets  mounted  upon  handles  are  used  to  dip  the 


230  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

fish  from  the  water  when  exhausted,  thus  saving  the 
strain  on  the  rod  which  would  be  necessary  to  lift 
the  fish.  The  best  net  for  canoe  fishing  is  of  coarse 
waterproofed  twine,  about  sixteen  inches  deep  and 
square  at  the  bottom,  mounted  on  a  wood  or  cane 
handle  some  four  feet  long,  the  net  depending  from  a 
metal  ring  from  twelve  to  fourteen  inches  in  diameter. 
The  old-fashioned  iron  ring  fitted  into  the  shaft  by 


FIG.  45. — Harrimac  Net-Frame 

means  of  a  spike,  but  all  the  good  features  of  a  strong 
yet  light  trout  landing-net  are  now  found  combined  in 
the  modern  collapsible  nets,  such  as  the  well-known 
"Harrimac,"  consisting  of  a  steel  collapsing  net- 
ring  fitting  on  to  a  two-piece  handle,  so  that  it  may 
be  used  either  two  or  four  feet  long.  Net,  handle,  and 
ring  fold  together,  when  taken  down,  in  a  convenient 
roll.  Without  net  the  "Harrimac"  costs  (rust-proof 
metal  and  bamboo  handle)  $2.25.  A  good  net,  which 
should  be  of  heavy  brown  waterproof  twine  with  a 
fairly  fine  mesh  and  square  bottom,  costs,  for  the 
eighteen  inch  length,  from  $1.00  in  braided  linen,  to 
$2.00  for  the  best  "enamelled."  Bright  yellow  nets 
frighten  the  fish. 

For  wading  a  short-handled  net  is  best.  The 
folding  "  I-D-L,"  with  a  twelve  inch  handle,  is  an  excel- 
lent one,  and  can  be  had  with  a  stout  elastic  cord, 
enabling  it  to  be  carried  round  the  neck,  the  elasticity 
of  the  cord  enabling  the  fish  to  be  netted  without 


Fishing  231 

removing  the  net  from  the  neck,  while  when  not  in 
use  it  is  thrown  over  the  back.  Another  much 
cheaper  short-handled  net  has  an  oval  wood  net- 
frame  which  screws  to  a  wood  handle  sixteen  inches 
long,  a  serviceable  combination  costing  only  $  .85. 
I  have  used  one  of  these  for  years.  To  the  end  of  the 


Fig.  46. — t4 1-D-L  "  Net-Frame 

handle  I  attach  a  piece  of  strong  but  pliable  leather 
with  a  buttonhole,  and  carry  the  net  hanging  from  a 
button  sewed  to  the  back  of  my  coat  or  waistcoat- 
collar,  as  the  case  may  be.  When  needed  it  is  easily 
unbuttoned  with  the  right  hand,  as  the  button  is 
placed  a  little  to  the  right  of  the  middle.  These  nets 
are  also  made  with  very  light  cane  rings  and  handles 
in  one  piece,  but  they  are  hardly  strong  enough  for 
much  usage. 

Some  appliance  by  which  the  wading  net  may  be 
attached  to  the  person,  thus  leaving  both  hands  free 
for  other  tasks,  is  very  desirable  on  our  tumultuous 
streams.  The  pins  sold  for  this  purpose  are  far  too 
flimsy.  British  landing-nets  are  very  expensive  and 
in  some  ways  not  as  good  as  ours. 

Creels 

Creels,  or  fish-baskets,  are  handy  for  short  trips, 
especially  when  the  trout  are  small.  On  long  canoe- 


232  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

trips  into  the  wilderness  they  are  in  the  way,  a  well- 
worked  and  twisted  withe  being  sufficient  in  case  one 
is  walking.  The  regulation  creel  used  in  this  country 
is  a  French  production  of  plaited  willow  with  a  hole  in 
either  the  middle  or  one  side  of  the  top  through  which 
to  drop  the  trout,  and  for  ventilation.  No.  4,  holding 
twenty-five  pounds  of  fish,  costs  without  strap  $2.00; 


FIG.  47. — Wooden-Frame  Net 

holding  thirty-five  pounds,  $3.00.  The  strap  should 
be  "new  style"  ($1.25),  with  a  narrow  strap  round  the 
waist  and  a  webbed  sling  for  the  shoulder,  preventing 
any  undue  and  sudden  sliding  round  of  the  basket, 
which,  when  full,  is  more  than  likely  to  throw  a 
person  off  his  balance,  with  dire  results  if  on  a  rapid 
and  rocky  brook. 

Another  willow  basket  is  the  "Brodhead,"  which 
is  longer  than  the  usual  style,  enabling  bigger  fish 
to  be  carried  laid  out  straight.  The  "Levison" 
basket  has  a  composition  top,  side  hole,  and  bolt- 
lock  (price  $4.50).  The  best  colour  f or  •  a  creel  is 
a  matter  of  taste.  Brown  is  less  conspicuous,  but 
draws  more  heat  than  straw-colour. 

The    "Duplex"    is    a    waterproof    brown    canvas 


Fishing  233 

creel  folding  up  when  not  in  use,  a  convenient  fea- 
ture ($1.75  and  $2.25).  A  simpler  folding  canvas 
creel  costs  $1.00.  I  have  never  used  any  folding 
creel  and  cannot  therefore  recommend  them  from 
personal  experience. 

H.  P.  Wells's  Fly-Rods  and  Fly-Tackle  is  the  stand- 
ard American  authority  on  this  subject.  Another 
book  on  fishing-tackle  announced  to  appear 
shortly,  The  Angler's  Workshop,  by  Perry 
D.  Frazer,  editor  of  Forest  and  Stream,  cannot  fail 
to  be  up-to-date  and  authoritative. 

REPAIRING 

There  is  no  more  delightful  occupation  for  an 
angler  than  to  make  his  own  rods  and  tackle,  a  sub- 
ject, however,  altogether  too  extensive  to  treat  of  in 
a  manual  of  this  kind.  Young  fishermen  cannot 
be  too  strongly  urged  to  take  it  up,  beginning  with 
tying  their  own  leaders,  and  progressing  as  far  as 
their  skill  will  allow,  even  to  the  supreme  point  of 
constructing  a  fly-rod  of  good  quality.  The  work, 
even  if  only  partially  successful,  will  be  found  fas- 
cinating and  most  instructive.  I  have  personally 
received  many  a  valuable  lesson  from  my  bungling 
efforts  to  tie  a  trout-fly  that  would  pass  muster. 
Those  who  wish  to  take  up  the  subject  seriously 
should  begin  by  procuring  the  books  by  Mr.  Wells  and 
Mr.  Frazer  just  mentioned. 

The  following  instructions  are  intended  for  fisher- 
men who  suffer  the  commoner  accidents  on  the  stream 
itself,  and  are  purposely  made  as  simple  and  terse 
as  possible. 


234  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

In  the  first  place  never  go  far  from  camp  without 
having  in  your  pocket  or  fly-book  a  yard  or  so  of 
winding-silk  (size  O,  or  if  not  obtainable,  then  A) ; 
a  small  flat  file  (if  necessary  with  the  tang  taken  off 
to  go  into  the  fly-book) ;  a  piece  of  cobbler's  wax  kept 
in  a  piece  of  kid  glove ;  and  at  least  one  rather  large- 


FiG.  48. — Temporary  Tip,  Single  Loop 

sized  ring-tip.     One  or  two  ring-guides  and  keepers 
are  also  convenient  to  have.     Most  serious  accidents 
occur  to  the  rod.     A  broken  reel,  or  one  too  badly 
bent  to  put  in  shape  on  the  stream,  cannot  be  used 
for  the  moment,  but,  in  case  there 
is  no    spare  reel   handy,   one   can 
make  out  to  fish  without  a   reel. 
FIG       —Tem  o      ^n^  difficulty  with  the  reel-seat  can 
rary    Tip,    Double     be  obviated  by  lashing  the  reel  to 
Loop  the  rod  with  twine  or  a  piece   of 

fish-line.  No  line  in  fair  condition 
is  likely  to  break  except  near  the  end,  so  that  there 
will  always  be  enough  on  the  reel  in  reserve.  Of 
leaders  and  flies  a  supply  is  always  carried  on  the 
person. 

Broken  Top.  If  a  top-piece  is  broken  so  that  at 
least  half  of  it  is  intact,  file  or  whittle  it  down  to  fit 
the  reserve  tip  you  carry  in  your  fly-book,  first 
waxing  the  wooden  end  slightly.  This  will  do  tem- 
porarily; when  you  return  to  camp  you  can  replace 
the  tip  with  angler's  cement,  a  small  stick  of  which 
should  be  in  your  kit.  It  is  softened  by  heat.  If 
you  have  no  extra  tip,  a  temporary  one  must  be 
made  out  of  brass  or  copper  wire,  or  failing  this,  of 


Fishing  235 

a  stout  pin  with  the  head  filed  off,  bent  into  a 
single  or  double  loop,  the  two  ends  being  whipped 
to  the  rod  with  waxed  silk.  (Figures  48  and  49.) 
If  there  is  shellac  in  the  canoe,  coat  the  winding 
with  it.  The  two  parts  of  a  broken  top  may  be 
spliced  together,  especially  towards  the  tip,  with  a 
quill  softened  in  warm  water,  split  lengthwise, 
trimmed  to  fit,  and  then  placed  over  the  break 
and  whipped  on  with  waxed  silk.  Breaks,  or  par- 
tial breaks,  in  the  upper  half  of  the  middle  joint 
or  stout  part  of  the  top  can  be  pretty  strongly 
mended  by  wrapping  a  rubber  band,  well  stretched 
as  you  wind,  round  the  break,  and  tying  it  securely 
in  place  with  twine  or  silk.  I  have  elsewhere  recom- 
mended taking  a  small  roll  of  bicycle-tire  for  the 
purpose  of  mending  canoes.  If  a  piece  is  handy  it 
can  be  used  in  place  of  the  rubber  band. 

Breaks  in  the  lower  half  of  the  rod,  if  just  below 
a  ferrule,  the  most  likely  place,  are  repaired  by  re- 


FIG.  50.— Broken  Pieces  Fitted  Ready 
for  Wrapping 

moving  the  broken  piece  from  the  ferrule,  into  which 
the  other  broken  end,  after  being  filed  and  scraped, 
is  fitted.  The  scraped  end  may  be  rubbed  with 
cobbler's  wax  temporarily.  Afterwards  in  camp 
the  end  can  be  more  securely  fitted  into  the  ferrule 
with  cement. 

Breaks  at  least  a  few  inches  from  a  ferrule  must 
be  spliced.  If  the  break  is  a  splinter,  so  that  the 
two  parts  present  a  long  surface  that  may  be  wrapped, 
this  may  be  done.  If  the  break  is  short  off,  the  two 


236  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

parts  are  cut  and  filed  down  and  fitted  together 
(Figure  50),  the  fitted  sides  being  slightly  roughened 
or  scored.  Care  must  be  taken  to  make  the  splice 
so  that  the  guide-rings  shall  be  in  exact  line.  Glue 
should  really  be  used  for  the  splice,  but  as  we  cannot 
carry  that  in  our  pockets,  we  warm 
the  two  pieces  and  the  cobbler's 
wax  over  a  fire,  coat  the  pieces 
FIG>  51.— Tempo-  thinly  with  the  wax,  and  keep  them 
rary  guide  pressed  together  until  stiff,  after 

which  the  splice  is  wrapped  with 
silk,  or,  failing  that,  with  twine.  In  case  you  have 
no  wax,  a  somewhat  unworkmanlike  but  effective 
splice  can  be  made  by  means  of  a  couple  of  slender 
wooden  splints  (of  ash  or  oak)  wound  with  twine. 

If  an  important  guide-ring  is  lost  a  temporary  one 
can  be  made  of  a  piece  of  wire  or  a  pin,  the  ends  being 
filed  sharp  (Figure  51).  The  twist  is  made,  after 
the  loop  has  been  formed,  by  inserting  the  latter  in 
a  cleft  stick.  If  too  difficult  the  simple  loop  will  do. 
Wrap  it  to  the  rod  with  waxed  silk,  and  bend  the 
loop  so  that  it  will  be  in  line  with  the  other  guides. 

It  will  be  noted  that  a  successful  result  of  nearly 
all  repairs  of  the  rod  depends  upon  wrapping,  which, 
How  to  as  it  means  only  winding  the  silk  round 
Make  a  and  round  the  rod  while  keeping  the  rings 
Wrapping  taut  and  close  together,  is  not  a  difficult 
task.  The  hard  part  comes  at  the  end,  when  the 
wrapping  must  be  finished  off  securely.  To  do  this 
we  must  learn  the  secret  of  the  invisible  knot.  Suppose 
you  wish  to  replace  a  lost  guide-ring.  Remove 
the  remains  of  the  old  silk  and  begin  the  new  wrap- 
ping as  in  Figure  52.  The  loop  extending  along  the 


Fishing 


237 


FIG.  52. — Beginning  of  Wrapping 


rod  must  be  slightly  longer  than  the  projected  wrap- 
ping. Now  complete  the  wrapping,  rolling  the  rod 
from  you.  When  fin- 
ished the  end  A  is 
pulled  until  only  a  tiny 
loop  remains.  We  then 
cut  off  our  silk  at  B, 
leaving  about  two 
inches,  and  pull  the  end  B  through  the  loop  a. 

Finally  we  pull  on  the 
end  A,  which  draws  the 
loop  a  (and  the  end  B) 
under  the  winding  and 
FIG.  53.— Double  Hitch  Fastening  confines  it  securely.  Cut 

off  the  ends  closely.    A 
little  practice  and  the  thing  is  easy. 

If  for  any  reason  the  invisible  knot  cannot  be 
made,  the  wrapping  may  be  finished  off  by  the  double- 
hitch  fastening,  as  in  Figure  53. 

Many  metals  used  for  angling  implements  are 
some  kind  of  copper  alloy,  which  may  be  oxidised 
by  Mr.  Wells' s  recipe,  as  follows:  In  a 
wide-mouthed  bottle  put  a  pound  of  or- 
dinary nitric  acid  and  a  silver  ten  cent  piece.  Put 
in  a  warm  place  with  the  glass  stopper  loose,  and 
allow  to  remain  until  the  silver  is  dissolved  (two  or 
three  days  at  least).  Then  add  four  inches  of  rather 
thick  copper  wire,  which  dissolves  rapidly.  Scrub 
and  dry  the  metal  for  treatment,  and  secure  it  to  a 
poker  by  means  of  copper  wire.  Dip  it  in  the  solution, 
shake  off  drops,  and  hold  it  in  a  bright  flame  (alcohol 
or  gas  best).  It  will  turn  green,  then  black,  when  it 
is  removed  from  the  heat,  and  allowed  to  cool.  Rub 


238  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

smooth.     The  result  will  be  a  surface  of  black  oxide 
of  copper. 

CASTING   THE    FLY    (SINGLE-HANDED) 

The  object  of  casting  is  to  present  the  lure  to  the 
fish  in  the  most  advantageous  manner,  the  principal 
point  being  to  drop  it  lightly  on  the  water,  as  if  it 
were  a  natural  insect,  and  in  any  desired  spot  within 
a  radius  of  from  forty  to  sixty  feet,  according  to  one's 
powers.  The  latter  distance  would  be  short  in  a 
fly-casting  tournament,  but  very  few  men  can  make 
a  cast  of  even  fifty  feet  and  still  have  the  flies  alight 
gently,  falling,  as  it  were,  of  their  own  weight.  In 
tournament  casting  very  long  throws  invariably 
result  in  the  flies  being  slapped  on  the  water  in  a 
manner  more  likely  to  frighten  than  to  entice  the 
fish,  except  in  turbulent  water.  The  casting  of  such 
men  as  Leonard,  Darling,  Frazer,  Mills,  and  others 
of  the  first  class  is  both  marvellous  and  instructive, 
but  the  beginner  is  recommended  to  forget  long  casting 
in  tournaments  entirely  when  he  joints  his  rod  on  a 
trout  stream,  for  distance  is  entirely  secondary,  yes, 
tertiary,  to  lightness  and  accuracy. 

The  best  way  to  learn  to  cast  the  fly  is  to  put  one- 
self in  the  hands  of  an  experienced  friend.  Failing 
L  .  him,  proceed  as  follows.  Rig  the  rod  with 
reel  and  line  but  without  leader  or  fly. 
Take  an  easy  stand  with  the  left  foot  slightly  in 
advance,  either  on  the  bank  of  a  stream  with  plenty 
of  room  before  and  behind,  or,  if  more  convenient, 
on  a  lawn.  Grasp  the  rod  in  the  right  hand  as  in  the 
cut,  the  thumb  on  that  part  of  the  handle  where  the 
rod  seems  to  balance  best.  From  the  very  first  keep 


Fishing 


239 


two  things  in  mind.  First,  remember  that  casting 
is  a  matter  of  wrist  and  not  arm  movement,  and, 
secondly,  during  practice,  especially  for  the  first  few 
weeks,  keep  the  casting-arm  very  close  to,  if  not 
actually  touching,  the  body.  If  the  latter  rule  is 
rigidly  adhered  to,  a  correct  and  easy  action  will 
follow  of  itself.  At  first  the  elbow  should  hug  the 


FIG.    54. — Position   at   Be- 
ginning and  End  of  Cast 


FIG.  55. — Position  at 
Top  of  Back-Cast 


body  even  at  the  end  of  the  cast.  With  growing 
efficiency  the  caster's  movements  may,  in  fact 
necessarily  will,  be  modified  and  become  freer.  Pull 
from  the  reel  with  the  free  hand  as  much  line  as  will 
reach  twice  the  length  of  the  rod  and  let  it  lie  on  the 
ground  in  front  of  you.  Now,  holding  the  rod  with  the 
tip  slightly  above  the  horizontal,  forget  for  a  moment 
that  your  arm  consists  of  anything  but  a  wrist,  and 


240  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

with  a  sharp  upward  movement  of  the  wrist  (aided 
involuntarily,  of  course,  by  the  forearm)  cause  the 
B  ,  .  rod  to  sweep  up  smartly,  checking  the 
movement  when  it  points  over  the 
shoulder,  but  not  farther  back  than  to  make  it 
form  an  angle  of  over  thirty  degrees  with  the  body. 
The  result  of  this  upward  flip  will  be  that  the 
line  will  fly  up  into  the  air  and  out  behind  until 
it  is  straight.  This  is  the  back-cast,  which  is  com- 
pleted the  moment  the  line  straightens  out  behind, 
the  rod  at  that  instant  being  slightly  bent  back 
by  the  weight  of  the  line  and  the  impetus  of  the 
throw. 

Now  just  at  the  nick  of  time  (no  sooner,  no  later) 
the  rod  is  swept  down  again  by  a  quick,  almost  jerky 
Forward-  movement  of  the  wrist,  which  is  suddenly 
cast  arrested  so  that  the  rod  shall  not  form  a 

smaller  angle  with  the  water  than  fifteen  degrees.  (Fig- 
ure 54.)  This  is  the  forward-cast.  From  the  above 
it  will  appear  that  the  cast  consists  of  three  periods: 
the  back-cast,  the  pause  while  the  line  straightens 
out  behind,  and  the  forward-cast.  Of  these  the 
first  movement,  or  back-cast,  is  the  most  important 
element  so  far  as  the  beginner  is  concerned,  for,  if  not 
mastered,  proper  casting  will  ever  remain  to  him  a 
closed  book.  Two  general  mistakes  should  be  guarded 
against  from  the  very  first:  the  use  of  arm  instead 
of  wrist,  and  too  little  energy.  The  movement  should 
be  a  quick  and  strong  flip,  almost  a  jerk,  the  flies 
being  twitched  off  the  water  and  tossed  into  the  air, 
not  horizontally  backward,  but  skyward,  above  the 
head  (steeple-cast).  This  throwing  the  flies  up  and 
not  only  back  will  correct  the  almost  universal 
mistake  of  beginners:  allowing  the  rod-tip  to  drop 


Fishing  241 

too  low  behind  the  body,  often  causing  the  flies  to 
strike  the  water  or  ground  behind,  which  is  both  ugly 
and  fatal  to  the  cast.  Having  mastered  the  back- 
cast,  turn  your  attention  to  the  second 

,  The  Pause 

important    element,    the    pause    between 

back  and  forward  casts,  also  pretty  generally  neglected 
by  beginners,  the  result  being  that  the  forward  move- 
ment is  made  before  the  flies  stream  out  behind,  and 
the  line  will  not  shoot  out  properly,  besides  which 
the  flies  are  apt  to  be  snapped  off.  This  premature 
forward-cast  is  generally  detected  by  the  distinct 
snap  of  the  leader.  Rather  exaggerate  the  length 
of  the  pause  between  the  casts,  and  never  forget 
that  the  complete  cast  consists  of  three,  not  two, 
periods.  Here  is  where  the  coach  comes  in,  who 
shall  call  out  "Now!"  the  instant  the  line  is  straight 
out  behind.  When  alone  the  beginner  should  count 
three  in  casting,  about  as  follows:  "One!"  (as  the 
rod  is  swept  upward) ;  "Two!"  (as  the  line  and  leader 
straighten  out  behind,  the  rod  being  held  motionless) ; 
"Three!"  (as  the  forward  movement  begins).  Do 
everything  smartly  but  cleanly.  Avoid  dragging  or 
lackadaisical  movements,  and  remember  first,  last, 
and  all  the  time  that  it  is  a  matter  of  the  wrist! 

Casting  is  less  a  matter  of  muscle  than  of  knack. 
It  is  the  art  of  making  the  movement  so  correctly, 
and  so  timed  to  the  tenth  part  of  a  second,  that  no 
portion  of  the  expended  energy  is  wasted,  and  so  that 
the  rod  will  respond  with  all  the  power  there  is  in  it. 
"Let  the  rod  do  the  work,"  is  an  old  and  sound 
adage. 

When  you  are  able  to  lay  out  two  or  three  rods' 
length  of  line  with  perfect  ease,  and  without  snapping 
the  line  or  hitting  the  ground  or  water  on  either 

16 


242  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

side  with  the  tip,  and  can  lay  the  line  across  any  part 
of  the  water  aimed  at,  tie  on  your  leader  and  a  single 
rather  large  fly  (best  with  barb  cut  off,  so  as  not  to 
catch  in  the  foliage  or  your  friend's  ear) ,  and  gradually 
lengthen  your  line  as  you  improve,  but  master  one 
length  before  adding  another  yard.  In  order  to 
avoid  slapping  the  water  with  the  fly  observe  the 
following  golden  rule:  aim  your  fly  at  an  imaginary 
point  in  the  air  about  a  yard  above  the  spot  in  the 
water  upon  which  you  wish  it  to  fall;  then,  even 
if  the  cast  is  a  little  brutal,  the  energy  will  be  expended 
in  the  air  and  the  fly  will  fall  lightly  upon  the  surface. 

When  you  are  able  always  to  place  a  fly  gently  upon 
any  desired  spot  within  forty  feet  you  are  an  expert 
so  far  as  trout-angling  is  concerned.  Few  can  do 
better. 

Another  important  piece  of  advice:  learn  from  the 
first  to  cast  with  either  hand,  so  that  the  work  will 
be  divided  and  neither  will  tire;  and  because  the 
position  of  the  boat  or  canoe,  the  direction  of  the 
wind  or  current,  overhanging  foliage,  or  some  other 
element,  may  render  it  awkward  or  even  impossible 
to  cast  with  the  accustomed  hand.  Learn  this  ambi- 
dexterity from  the  start,  as  later  it  is  much  more 
difficult.  Of  course  each  will  always  have  his  favour- 
ite hand,  but  the  other  should  be  ready  to  help  out. 

When  fishing  humour  arm,  wrist,  and  hand.  Do  not 
grip  the  handle  spasmodically,  but  hold  it  quietly, 
occasionally  favouring  this  or  that  finger  by  changing 
the  force  of  the  grip.  This  will  prevent  cramp  and 
keep  the  muscles  supple. 

For  hints  regarding  the  management  of  the  cast 
in  actual  fishing  consult  the  section  on  Trout-Fishing. 

The  regular  cast  described  above,  which  is  usually 


Fishing  243 

called  the  overhead-cast,  since  the  flies  are  thrown 
up  into  the  air,  is  the  one  which  will  be  employed  four 
fifths  of  the  time  in  actual  fishing,  and,  it  once  mas- 
tered, the  many  variations  will  come  easily.  Of 
these  may  be  mentioned  the  wind-cast,  used  when 
the  wind  is  from  the  direction  in  which  the  cast  is  to 
be  made.  It  is  merely  a  sharp,  quick  overhead-cast 
with  a  very  forcible  forward-cast,  the  rod  being  brought 
down  so  that  the  tip  all  but  touches  the  water.  The 
underhand-cast,  used  when  obstructions  prevent  the 
overhead,  is  carried  out  by  switching  the  line  sharply 
to  one  side,  and,  when  the  leader  has  straightened 
out,  switching  it  back  and  out.  Naturally  no  great 
distance  can  be  covered  thus,  but  the  cast  is  often 
very  useful.  When  no  back  or  side  cast  is  possible, 
which  is  sometimes  the  case  on  small,  overhung 
streams,  resort  must  be  had  to  the  flip-cast,  which 
can  be  made  only  with  a  line  about  as  long  as  the 
rod.  The  fly  is  held  between  thumb  and  forefinger  of 
the  free  hand  (don't  hook  yourself!),  pulled  back  so 
that  the  rod  is  bent,  and  then  released,  the  spring  of 
the  rod  jerking  the  fly  out  upon  the  water.  Other 
casts  of  more  complicated  nature  need  not  concern 
the  trout-angler.  Those  interested  in  tournament 
casting  may  consult  Lou  S.  Darling's  valuable  little 
book,  Tournament  Casting  (Forest  and  Stream 
Publishing  Company,  New  York). 

BROOK-TROUT    FISHING 

The  brook-trout  of  eastern  North  America  (sal- 
velinus  fontinalis,  i.  e.,  charr  of  the  springs)  has  been 
assigned  by  the  wise  men  to  that  class  of  trouts  called 
charr  (salvelinus)  because,  unlike  the  salmon  (salmo) 
and  the  trouts  built  exactly  like  the  latter,  it  has  no 


244  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

teeth  on  the  front  part  of  the  bone  of  the  roof  of 
the  mouth.  This  minor  structural  difference  need 
not  bother  the  angler,  for  our  brook-trout  is  not  only 
the  most  beautiful  thing  that  swims,  but  yields  to 
no  trout  in  fighting  qualities.  He  lives  only  in  the 
coldest  and  purest  of  water  and  will  rather  starve 
than  feed  upon  carrion  of  any  kind.  Mr.  W.  C. 
Harris  says, 

"No  other  fish  known  to  anglers  possesses  habits  so  free 
from  grossness  as  the  brook  trout  of  the  East.  .  .  .  When 
you  hold  him,  seemingly  exhausted,  hard  and  fast  in  your 
hand,  to  take  the  hook  from  his  mouth,  he  will  draw  his 
muscles  tense  and  strong  in  a  final  effort  for  liberty, — no 
other  game  fish,  to  my  knowledge,  makes  this  powerful, 
convulsive  struggle  after  capture  and  apparent  exhaustion  " 
(Salmon  and  Trout). 

If  not  already  in  the  streams  it  begins  to  ascend 
them  in  September  and  spawns  in  October  and 
later,  usually  in  the  sand  as  far  up-stream  as  it  can 
get.  From  April  to  the  middle  of  July  (in  Canada) 
it  lives  for  the  most  part  in  the  streams,  where  it 
finds  its  most  abundant  food-supply  in  the  shape  of 
insects,  small  fish,  and  even  such  tidbits  as  young 
mice.  By  the  beginning  of  hot  weather  it  has  re- 
turned to  deep  water,  usually  the  lakes,  or,  if  none 
are  available,  the  deeper  pools  or  under  the  shade  of 
lily-pads.  In  the  lakes  it  will  most  often  be  found 
off  the  mouths  of  cool  streams,  sometimes  in  very 
shallow  water,  under  the  pads. 

Our  trout  is  clipper-built  and  symmetrical,  with 
powerful  tail  and  large  mouth,  the  lower  jaw  often 
projecting  beyond  the  upper,  especially  in  old  fish. 
The  tail  when  spread  has  almost  no  fork,  giving  rise 
to  the  familiar  Maine  term,  "square-tail  trout." 


Fishing  245 

The  rich,  dark  olive-green  back  is  vermiculated  and 
its  dark-golden  sides  are  ornamented,  both  above 
and  below  the  dark  horizontal  median  line,  with 
yellow  spots,  as  well  as  bejewelled  with  a  lesser  number 
of  brilliant  red  dots  set  within  areolae  of  sapphire, 
whence  the  name  "speckled  trout."  The  red-and- 
black  fins  are  bordered  with  white.  The  belly  ranges 
in  hue  from  the  rich  gold  of  the  spawning  attire 
through  many  shades  of  yellow  to  grey  and  even  pure 
white,  according  to  season  and  the  colour  and  nature 
of  the  bottom,  for  no  fish  is  so  sensitive  in  this  regard. 
The  sea-trout,  which  is  merely  the  brook-trout  which 
runs  down  to  the  sea  at  certain  periods,  returns  so 
silvery  light  in  hue  that  it  was  for  years  held  to  be 
a  separate  species,  while  trout  taken  from  deep 
shaded  pools  are  often  nearly  black.  In  the  spawning 
season  the  colouring  is  richest,  and  not  even  the  gor- 
geous fishes  of  the  tropics  can  rival  fontinalis  at  this 
time.  These  differences  in  tint,  which  extend  even 
to  the  colour  of  the  flesh,  led  in  former  times  to  the 
erroneous  belief  that  there  were  many  subspecies 
of  brook-trout.  It  is  a  pity  that,  when  confined 
in  aquaria,  this  incomparable  fish  loses  most  of  its 
brilliant  colouring. 

Genuine   salvelinus  fontinalis  of   ten  pounds  and 
even  heavier  weight  are  occasionally  taken  in  the 
Rangeley    Lakes   of    Maine   and   in   some 
waters  of  Canada,  but  such  monsters  are 
very  rare.     In  other  regions  a  three-pounder  may  be 
considered  a  "  whale, "  and  a  two-pounder  a  very  large 
fish.     But  let  us  cheer  up,  for  every  ounce  a  trout 
gains  after  he  weighs  if  pounds  tends  to  make  him 
sluggish,  though  of  course  there  are  heavy  fish  that 


246  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

fight  splendidly.  After  all  it  is  not  a  matter  of 
weight  by  any  means,  but  of  fighting  quality.  Trout 
are  individual,  like  men.  It  always  seemed  to  me 
a  little  ridiculous  to  see  in  some  angler's  sanctum  the 
stuffed  skin  of  a  five-pound  trout  with  a  huge  pot- 
belly and  absolutely  no  pretence  to  beauty.  Why 
set  up  in  our  halls  statues  of  Venus  and  of  the  Apollo 
Belvedere  when  we  can  get  a  figure  of  Daniel  Lambert, 
the  fattest  man  who  ever  lived?  A  trout  should  be 
valued  first  by  the  fight  he  puts  up,  secondly  by 
his  beauty  of  form  and  colour,  and  thirdly  by  his 
weight. 

In  general  ordinary  camp  costume  will  do.  We 
may  leave  mackintosh  and  rubber  wading-boots  and 
stockings  to  the  angler  who  goes  forth 
from  some  country  hotel,  as  they  are  heavy 
and  cumbersome,  and,  though  impervious  to  water 
when  new,  they  never  keep  the  feet  dry,  for  the  simple 
reason  that  the  feet  unfailingly  sweat  in  them.  Nor 
are  heavy  wading  brogans  necessary.  The  best 
thing  to  do  is  to  get  over  any  shyness  of  wet  feet  as 
soon  as  possible,  for  you  will  not  be  injured  by  that 
condition  so  long  as  you  wear  woollen  stockings  and 
drawers.  When  you  get  to  camp  dry  off  before  the 
fire  in  coldish  weather  or  change  for  dry  togs;  in 
warm  weather  most  people  prefer  to  let  their  wet 
footwear  dry  on  them.  If  you  have  a  decided  ten- 
dency to  rheumatism  keep  out  of  the  water  as  much 
as  possible. 

For  wading,  which  involves  springing  from  rock 
to  rock,  shoes  having  stout  soles  studded  with  a  few 
well-placed  small  (Hungarian)  hobnails  are  best.  I 
prefer  shoepacks  (see  p.  23)  with  such  nails,  and  very 


Fishing  247 

seldom  slip,  protecting  my  ankles  and  calves  with  a 
pair  of  stout  leggings.  Ankle-shoes  are  perhaps 
a  better  protection  from  the  rocks.  If  high  shoes 
are  worn  a  slit  or  two  near  the  sole  will  allow  the 
water  to  run  out.  One  should  be  careful  when 
wearing  hobnailed  shoes  not  to  injure  the  bottom 
of  the  canoe.  "Sneakers"  cling  to  the  rocks  while 
they  last,  but  that  is  not  long,  and  they  offer  little 
protection  against  sharp  rocks.  If  shoes  are  kept 
well  greased  they  will  dry  soft,  or  rather  will  not 
really  get  wet,  but  can  be  emptied  of  water  and  put 
on  again. 

A  stout  leather  belt  should  be  worn,  from  which 
the    hunting-knife    is    suspended.     If    it  B  j 

has  a  shiny  buckle  turn  it  to  the  rear. 

In  fly-time  a  pair  of  stout  dogskin  or  buckskin 
gloves,  well  greased  and  with  the  ends  of  the  fingers 

cut    off,    may    be    recommended,    as    the 

1       j  i  i         •   *       £          Gloves 

hands    are    always    a    principal    point    of 

attack,  especially  the  rod-hand. 

On  the  person  are  carried  the  head-net,  dope-can, 
balance-spring  scales,  fly-book,  cast-case  or  leader- 
box,  and  the  miscellaneous  contents  of  the  £     .  ment 
pockets    (jack-knife,   match-box,  tobacco- 
pouch,  compass,  pipe,  emergency  lunch,  etc.). 

A  shallow  japanned  tin  box,   5?  by  3   inches,   I 
have  found  large  enough  to  contain  a  bit  of  wax, 

rod-cement,     fine     screw-driver,     cutters, 

.     -.          ...  £  .  j  Repair -kit 

tweezers,    winding-silk,    a   few   guides   or 

guide-rings  and  keepers,  extra  tips,  flat  file,  oil-can, 


248  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

rubber  bands,  foot  of  copper  wire,  small  screws, 
etc. 

On  canoe-trips  I  have  found  a  small  stout  leather 
shopping-bag  that  has  outlived  its  beauty  a  most 

practical  convenience.     In  it  may  be  kept 
Fish-bag       aU    the    fishing_tackle    and    other    small 

articles.  It  does  not  leave  the  canoe  but  serves  as 
a  general  store  on  day  trips.  Grease  it  thoroughly 
on  the  outside.  Fish-creels  are  seldom  taken  on 
long  tours  in  the  woods. 

The  rules  and  considerations  contained  in  the 
following  pages  must  be  regarded  merely  in  the 
light  of  stimulating  hints,  for  in  no  sport  does  ex- 
perience claim  a  larger  share  than  in  fly-fishing  for 
trout.  Let  the  beginner  assimilate  as  many  of  them 
as  he  can,  and  then,  after  a  few  days  on  the  stream, 
reread  them  carefully,  with  a  view  to  recognising 
how  far  short  of  them  he  may  have  fallen.  In  the 
light  of  his  experience  many  of  them  will  have  ac- 
quired new  significance. 

Arrived  upon  the  chosen  water  the  angler  is  con- 
fronted with  manifold  practical  considerations:  at 
what  time  of  day  to  fish,  whether  up  or  down-stream, 
what  flies  to  use,  how  to  stand,  to  cast,  to  manipulate 
the  flies,  to  hook  the  fish,  to  play  it,  and  to  net  it. 

To  this  question  may  be  given  the  same  answer 
as  to  the  query:  "At  what  time  are  the  trout  feeding 
Time  of  Day  on  the  surface?"  In  early  spring,  when 
to  Fish  the  mornings  are  cold,  there  will  be  few 
flies  on  the  water,  and  consequently  the  trout  are 
not  likely  to  be  stirring,  for  which  reason  there  is 


Fishing  249 

no  necessity  to  turn  out  before  breakfast,  for  the 
fishing  is  likely  to  be  better  at  nine  or  ten  than  at 
eight  o'clock.  At  this  season  it  will  probably  con- 
tinue all  day,  stopping  when  the  chill  of  evening 
comes.  Later,  as  the  summer  approaches, 'the  flies, 
and  consequently  the  trout,  will  be  astir  at  an  earlier 
hour,  and  in  really  hot  weather  the  very  early, 
bef ore-breakfast  angler  will  find  his  justification, 
while  there  will  be  little  use  in  wetting  a  line  between 
noon  and  four  o'clock,  though  exceptions  are  many. 
In  summer  the  best  fishing  is  often  enjoyed  in  the 
evening  hours,  say  from  6  to  7.30. 

Extremes  are  not  generally  good  for  fishing.  On 
cold,  raw  days  the  fish  will  not  rise  freely  and  those 
that  do  will  be  sluggish,  while  the  same  General 
is  true  on  very  hot,  sunny  days.  It  is  no  Weather 
fun  to  fly-fish  in  a  heavy  wind  or  in  a  Conditions 
pouring  rain.  The  old-time  fisherman's  day,  which 
was  always  overcast,  is  by  no  means  a  necessity; 
rather  the  contrary,  for  the  reason  that  the  sun 
brings  out  the  insects,  and  it  is  the  angler's  bitter- 
sweet experience  that  trout-bites  and  fly-bites  go 
together.  A  warm  rain,  if  not  hard,  is  an  ideal 
condition,  and  I  have  found  a  fog  in  summer  very 
favourable.  A  perfect  calm  allows  the  fish  too  clear 
a  vision,  a  light  breeze,  which  ruffles  the  surface, 
being  more  advantageous.  The  old  rule  which  says 
that  trout  never  rise  during  a  thunder-storm  is  quite 
wrong;  I  have  often  enjoyed  lively  fly-fishing  during 
heavy  thunder.  We  all  know  how  fickle  the  sensitive 
trout  is,  and  no  man  can  fathom  its  vagaries,  as, 
for  example,  why,  with  no  apparent  reason,  rising 
will  stop  of  a  sudden,  during  good  fishing,  as  if 


250  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

by  some  signal  from  the  king  of  the  pool.  In 
Canada  I  have  often  observed  this  at  sundown  in 
spring. 

If  the  chosen  water  is  reached  on  foot  by  a  path 
through  the  woods,  it  is  best  to  carry  the  rod  un- 
Up-  or  jointed,  the  joints  being  held  together  by 
Down-  rubber  bands.  Arrived  at  the  point  where 
stream.  the  first  cast  is  to  be  made,  the  first  ques- 
tion that  arises  is  whether  to  fish  up-stream,  as  in  Eng- 
land, or  with  the  stream.  Across  the  ocean,  where  the 
streams  are  usually  of  a  clear  and  tranquil  nature, 
up-stream  fishing  is  the  only  approved  method,  and 
for  two  principal  reasons:  first,  because  all  fish 
lie  facing  up-stream  and  cannot  therefore  see  the 
angler  as  he  casts  the  fly  over  them,  and,  secondly, 
because  the  fish  takes  the  fly  as  it  floats  down;  for 
it  must  be  remembered  that  the  European  trout  dines 
mostly  off  drowned  insects.  In  our  country,  how- 
ever, where  most  streams  have  a  strong  and  often 
boisterous  current,  and  where  the  lure,  to  be  tempting, 
must  be  agitated,  it  is  manifestly  impossible  to  adhere 
to  this  rule,  for  the  fly  would  be  swirled  down  upon 
the  angler  in  a  jiffy.  Therefore  rapid  waters  are 
with  us  fished  down-stream.  But  this  rule  has  ex- 
ceptions, and  I  strongly  recommend  that,  where 
possible,  up-stream  fishing  be  practised.  Upon 
streams,  like  those  in  Nova  Scotia,  for  example, 
where  rapids  alternate  with  "still-waters"  having 
very  little  current,  it  is  l)est  to  fish  the  rapids  down- 
stream, but,  when  a  still-water  is  reached,  to  go 
round  to  its  foot  and  fish  it  up.  This  recommenda- 
tion, I  am  quite  aware,  is  extremely  unlikely  to  be 
acted  upon,  for  not  only  does  it  involve  a  certain 


Fishing  251 

loss  of  time,  but  the  banks  are  generally  so  thickly 
grown  that  a  double  journey  along  them  is  an  under- 
taking not  lightly  to  be  carried  out.  Up-stream 
fishing  does  not  necessarily  mean  casting  directly 
against  the  current,  but  rather  diagonally  across  and 
up  the  stream,  which  makes  the  handling  of  the  fly 
and  line  easier. 

Arrived  upon  the  scene  of  action  the  tackle  will 
have  been  made  ready  en  route  if  by  canoe;  otherwise 
this  is  done  well  out  of  sight  of  the  fish. 
As  to  the  choice  of  flies  and  the  method 
of  casting  enough  has  been  said  under  Fly-tackle. 
The  angler  stations  himself  so  that  the  shadow  of 
himself  and  of  his  rod  will  not  be  thrown  upon  the 
water,  and,  keeping  as  far  back  from  the  brink  as 
practicable,  makes  his  first  cast  over  the  spot  nearest 
to  him  where  fish  are  likely  to  lie,  not  forgetting 
to  cast  at  an  imaginary  spot  a  few  feet  directly  above 
the  place  where  the  fly  shall  fall.  Fish  Lengthen- 
the  nearest  likely  places  first  on  all  sides,  &£  Casts 
and  then  gradually  extend  the  length  of  the  casts  by 
pulling  off  more  line  from  the  reel  with  the  left  hand 
just  before  the  line  is  retrieved  from  the  water. 

The  manipulation  of  the  hands  in  actual  fishing; 
is  of  great  importance,  but  is  about  the  last  thing  a, 
beginner    learns.     The  work   of    the  rod-  Th   H    d 
hand  is  simple.     It  grasps  the  handle  with 
thumb  on  top,  the  line  being  held  under  the  fore- 
finger  (or   fore   and   second   fingers),   but   not   very 
tightly  (Figure  55).     Running  thus  through  the  fin- 
gers from  the  reel,  the  line  may  either  be  completely 
checked,  as  while  casting  or  whe_ri  stopping  a.  running 


252 


The  Way  of  the  Woods 


fish,  or  the  fore-finger  may  be  used  merely  as  a  drag, 
i.  £.,  letting  the  line  run  out  but  slowly  and  with 
pressure  on  the  fish.  The  right  hand  is  thus  ever  in 
motion  of  some  kind,  according 
to  the  exigencies  of  the  mo- 
ment. The  left  hand  (of  a 
right-handed  angler)  is  the 
general  assistant  of  the  rod- 
hand,  and  its  principal  task  is 
to  pull  more  line  off  the  reel  in 
lengthening  the  cast,  while  it 
is  also  employed  in  keeping  the 
line  from  fouling.  When  a 
fish  of  any  size  is  hooked,  the 
left  hand  grasps  the .  line  just 
above  the  reel  and  the  fish  is 
played  in  this  position,  the 
sensitiveness  of  the  hand  feel- 
ing just  how  much  pressure 
may  be  put  upon  the  fish  and 
when  to  reel  in  (Figure  56). 
The  pulling  off  of  line  with  the 

left  hand  is  apt  to  result  in  many  yards  of  line 
lying  at  the  angler's  feet,  a  condition  prone  to  fouling; 
for  which  reason  the  unnecessary  slack  should  be 
reeled  in  as  occasion  offers,  though  most  fishermen 
prefer  to  have  a  yard  or  more  of  loose  line  between 
the  reel  and  the  left  hand  "to  work  on." 


FIG.— 56.      Position  in 
Playing  a  Fish 


Some  shipwrecked  insects  do  not  struggle  when 
being  borne  down-stream,  but  most  of  them  cer- 
Movement  tainly  do,  and  for  this  reason  the  artificial 
of  Fly  fly  should  be  given  a  wriggling  motion 

by  means  of  slight  movements  of  the  wrist,  hard  to 


Fishing  253 

describe  but  easy  to  discover  by  experiment.  If  luck 
is  bad,  success  may  be  wooed  by  allowing  the  fly  to 
sink  several  inches  and  then  retrieving  it  by  a  series 
of  tiny  jerks  (submerged  fly).  This  is  best  done  in 
comparatively  quiet  water,  and  is  usually  employed 
in  waters  inhabited  by  very  large  fish,  on  which 
account  it  is  the  favourite  method  of  anglers  in  the 
Rangeley  Lakes  region,  the  home  of  gigantic  if  some- 
what less  lively  brook-trout.  Often  when  trout 
are  rising  but  will  take  no  notice  of  your  lure  they 
may  be  got  by  changing  to  a  much  smaller  size  of 
fly  on  a  light  leader,  especially  if  you  have  one  re- 
sembling the  natural  insect  on  which  the  fish,  are 
feeding.  This  is  particularly  the  case  in  the  mayfly 
season,  when  the  feed  is  so  good  that  the  trout  need 
take  no  special  trouble  to  secure  a  sumptuous  repast. 
Often  at  this  time  it  is  as  well  to  put  up  one's  rod 
and  turn  to  philosophy  and  a  pipe.  But  words  are 
really  wasted  on  this  subject ;  trout  are  odd  and  fickle 
fish,  and  the  only  rule  is  to  try  them  with  one  thing 
after  another  until  they  do  rise  or  it  is  time  to  return 
to  camp.  Of  "dry-fly"  fishing  I  will  speak  at  the 
end  of  this  chapter. 

Beginners  are  prone  to  fall  into  two  special  weak- 
nesses in  manipulating  the  fly.  First,  they  do  not 
keep  the  fly  or  flies  long  enough  on  the  Keep  Your 
water,  but  retrieve  too  quickly.  The  other  Line  Wet 
mistake  is  the  exact  opposite:  the  flies  are  allowed 
to  remain  on  the  water  so  long  that  when  the  angler 
strives  to  retrieve  them  he  finds  that  he  has  no  proper 
leverage.  Worse  than  that,  if  a  fish  of  any  size 
should  take  the  fly  at  that  time  (when  it  is  too  near  the 
angler)  one  of  two  things  is  pretty  sure  to  happen: 


254  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

either  the  rod  will  break  or  the  fish  will  be  lost,  and 
a  combination  of  these  two  disasters  is  not  un- 
common. Therefore,  while  "keeping  your  line  wet," 
i.  £.,  dragging  the  fly  over  as  much  water  as  practi- 
cable, do  not  postpone  the  back-cast  too  long. 

The  brook-trout  is  a  savage  striker,  so  much  so 
that  in  his  elan  he  often  fails  to  mouth  the  fly,  some- 
Th  R.  times,  if  he  is  small,  making  half  a  dozen 
or  more  abortive  attempts  to  secure  it, 
either  leaping  clear  over  it  or  striking  short.  The 
latter  blunder  occurs  not  so  much  from  bad  marks- 
manship as  because  of  the  extraordinary  antics  of 
the  usual  artificial  fly,  which,  contrary  to  all  the 
known  rules  of  entomology  and  physics,  spends  most 
of  its  time  in  swimming  directly  against  the  stream, 
while  the  natural  insect  is  swept  steadily  down. 
Unlike  the  more  deliberate  European  trout,  fon- 
tinalis  will,  four  times  out  of  five,  show  a  goodly 
portion  of  himself,  and  not  infrequently  his  whole 
body,  in  his  rush  for  the  fly,  for  his  savage  upward 
shoot  is  apt  to  take  him  clear  of  the  surafce.  Espe- 
cially the  little  chaps  will  often  turn  complete  sum- 
mersaults in  the  air  and  fall  on  their  backs,  while  the 
big  fellows  execute  the  "porpoise  jump,"  a  graceful 
aerial  curve,  the  fly  being  mouthed  at  its  end.  If 
checked  the  trout  will  leap  from  the  water  when 
hooked,  but  almost  never  on  a  slack  line,  as  the  bass 
does. 

The  rising  of  the  trout  to  the  fly,  a  feature  which 

serves   to   mark   the   vast   superiority    of 

>0  mg       fly-fishing  over  the  use  of  bait  (saving  Mr. 

Cleveland's  presence!),  is  a  delicious  moment.      You 


Fishing  255 

never  know  exactly  when  it  is  coming,  but  when  it 
does,  then  hook  your  fish.  This  is  done  at  the  mo- 
ment the  hook  is  actually  in  the  trout's  mouth  (only 
a  second  or  two)  by  a  movement  of  the  wrist,  the 
force  of  which  is  regulated  by  circumstances.  The 
old  and  trite  "turn  of  the  wrist"  will  do  for  small 
fish  in  water  which  has  some  current;  in  fact  in 
rapid  water  the  fish  generally  hooks  itself,  and  one 
must  have  a  care  not  to  add  so  much  force  to  that 
of  the  current  and  the  strength  of  the  fish  combined 
as  to  tear  out  the  hook.  For  large  fish,  however, 
especially  in  quiet  water,  one  must,  as  Mr.  Wells 
says,  "sock  it  to  them"  with  the  line  firmly  held 
under  the  forefinger.  This  means  a  quick  and  sharp 
jerk  upwards  with  the  wrist  and  forearm.  The 
whole  matter  of  hooking  a  rising  fish  is  one  of  judg- 
ment and  temperament.  Slow-thinking  and  acting 
people  hardly  ever  become  good  fly-fishermen,  while 
again  very  nervous  persons  often  jerk  the  fly  away 
before  the  fish  has  actually  mouthed  it.  More  fish 
are  lost  in  the  hooking  process  than  at  any  other 
stage  of  the  game,  the  strike  being  either  too  early 
or  too  late,  too  hard  or  too  gentle. 

Those  whose  tendency  is  to  strike  too  hard  may 
strike  the  rising  fish  from  the  reel,  that  is,  without 
checking  the  line  with  the  forefinger.  Striking 
This  will  make  the  strike  gentler,  for  the  from 

reason  that  some  line  will  be  pulled  from  the  Reel 
the  reel.  Of  course  this  can  be  done  only  with  reels 
having  a  rather  strong  click  apparatus,  which  most 
good  reels  possess. 

After  the  display   (i.   e.,   covering  the  water)   of 


256  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

the  fly  and  the  successful  hooking  of  the  fish  comes 
the  important  element  of  the  playing,  or  manipula- 
Plavi  tion  of  the  trout  until  he  has  been  netted. 

The  secret  of  this  is  to  keep  one's  line 
taut  every  instant  until  the  strain,  thus  continuously 
exerted,  finally  overpowers  the  trout's  strength  and 
he  can  be  led  within  reach  of  the  net.  This  strain 
must  be  regulated  by  the  size  of  the  fish,  the  delicacy 
of  the  tackle,  and  the  character  of  the  water.  The 
general  fault  is  to  "brutalise"  the  fish,  seeking  to 
drag  him  to  the  net  at  once,  a  plan  which  too  often 
succeeds  with  the  overstrong  leaders  and  large  flies 
commonly  used.  But  you  are  not  likely  to  fall 
into  this  unsportsmanlike  habit  if  your  leaders  and 
flies  are  as  delicate  as  they  should  be,  for  after  one 
or  two  mishaps  you  will  discover  that  the  fish  has 
a  good  chance  and  that  he  must  be  humoured  and 
gradually  worn  down.  During  the  whole  process 
of  playing  keep  the  tip  of  the  rod  well  up,  and  see  that 
the  rod  has  a  constant  bend.  At  the  first  prick  of 
the  hook  the  trout  will  dash  off  and  very  likely  shake 
himself  violently.  Right  here  novices  commonly 
make  the  mistake  of  checking  him  too  abruptly. 
The  best  way  is  to  check  him  but  with  free  reel,  so 
that  he  will  pull  out  more  line  rather  than  break  the 
gut.  As  soon  as  he  quiets  down  keep  the  strain  on 
him,  and  lead  him  from  side  to  side  if  the  water  is 
smooth  enough.  The  main  thing  is  to  play  the  fish 
until  he  is  .docile.  Exceptions  occur,  of  course;  for 
instance  in  running  water,  where  stronger  tackle  is 
recommended.  The  forefinger  may  be  kept  on  the 
line,  but  not  so  firmly  as  to  prevent  its  running  out 
should  the  fish  make  a  sudden  start.  The  free  hand 
(as  described  above)  is  used  as  a  reel  and  drag. 


Fishing  257 

So  long  as  the  fish  fights  make  no  attempt  to  do 
more  than  keep  him  from  taking  refuge  in  weeds  or 
under  logs,  roots,  and  other  obstructions,  which  he 
will  infallibly  endeavour  to  reach,  in  order  to  break 
the  tackle  and  get  free.  Meet  his  every  movement 
with  a  counteraction,  humouring  or  checking  him, 
as  the  case  warrants,  but  never  allowing  the  line  to 
slacken  for  an  instant.  When  he  tires  urge  him 
gently  towards  the  net,  which  is  held  at  the  surface 
of  the  water,  ready  to  be  slipped  under  the  fish.  When 
he  sees  it  he  will  be  sure  to  make  another  dash  for 
liberty,  and  just  here  many  a  fish  is  lost,  the  angler 
being  taken  off  his  guard.  Never  forget  that  fon- 
tinalis  will  fight  as  long  as  he  can  wriggle,  and  yields 
only  to  complete  exhaustion.  His  fighting  qualities, 
like  those  of  other  game  fish,  vary  with  season, 
weather,  feed,  and  water.  Small  fish  are  proportion- 
ately the  best  fighters,  and,  in  most  waters,  those 
that  offer  the  most  lively  resistance  will  weigh  be- 
tween f  Ib.  and  ij  Ibs.,  though  of  course  such  a  rule 
has  many  exceptions.  The  point  to  be  insisted  upon 
is,  that  it  is  quite  wrong  to  judge  a  trout  by  his  weight 
alone,  as  most  people  do.  He  should  be  judged  by 
his  gaminess  and  the  consequent  sport  given.  The 
largest  trout  I  ever  killed  failed  to  give  me  such  a 
struggle  as  many  half  his  size.  Of  course  this  sounds 
like  pure  preaching,  and  anglers  will  go  on  to  eternity 
boasting  of  "the  big  fish,"  and  believing  that  a  man 
who  takes  twenty  trout  is  a  better  fisherman  than  he 
who  kills  ten,  and  for  that  reason  only.  As  a  matter 
of  fact  the  angler  has  it  in  his  power  to  insure  himself 
the  best  of  sport  (I  mean  real  angling  and  not  dragging 
scores  of  fish  into  the  boat)  by  merely  fitting  the 
strength  of  his  tackle  to  the  size  of  the  fish  where  he 
17 


258  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

wets  his  flies.  A  quarter-pound  trout  on  a  3-  or 
4-oz.  rod,  with  gossamer  leader  and  No.  10  or  12  fly, 
will  very  likely  afford  as  much  sport  as  a  2 -pounder 
on  a  10^  foot  rod,  unbreakable  leader,  and  large  fly. 
If  you  ever  get  surfeited  with  trout-fishing  try  angling 
with  flies  from  the  hooks  of  which  the  barbs  have 
been  filed.  With  these  the  slightest  mistake  in 
playing  results  in  the  unhooking  and  loss  of  the  fish. 
It  is  delicate,  artistic,  and  interesting  work,  but  not 
calculated  to  please  the  fish-hogs. 

If  a  guide  or  other  companion  is  present  who  does 
the  netting,  he  should  hold  the  net  at  the  surface  of 
Nettin  ^e  water  in  such  a  position  that,  as  the 
trout  is  brought  to  it,  it  can  be  slipped 
quietly  but  quickly  under  him  and  then  lifted.  Let 
there  be  no  flurry  and  no  wild  scooping  at  fish  that 
are  not  yet  within  reach.  There  is  always  a  par- 
donable eagerness  to  get  a  big  fish  safely  netted,  but 
if  he  cannot  be  brought  to  it  he  must  be  played 
longer.  In  case  the  angler  nets  his  own  fish  he  must 
be  doubly  careful  not  to  act  prematurely.  Holding 
the  exhausted  fish  on  a  line  just  long  enough  to  allow 
him  to  be  floated  over  the  net,  let  net  and  fish  ap- 
proach each  other  by  a  simultaneous  movement  of 
the  two  hands.  Coolness  and  deftness  are  needed. 

If  you  have  no  net  the  fish  must  be  completely 
tired  out  before  attempting  to  land  him.  Then 
Landing  either  work  him  to  some  low  place  on 
with-  the  bank  and  drag  him  out  with  a  quick 

out  Net  but  ^{berate  movement,  or  (when  afloat) 
reach  carefully  down  with  the  free  hand  and  grasp 
the  trout  through  the  gills  with  forefinger  and  thumb 


THE  END  OF  THE  BATTLE 


Fishing  259 

— somewhat  easier  said  than  done.  To  lift  a  fish  of 
any  size  with  the  rod  alone  injures  the  latter.  A 
large  fish  can  sometimes  be  knocked  on  the  head 
alongside  the  canoe. 

When  your  beauty  lies  gasping  in  the  net,  grasp 
him  firmly  with  the  left  hand,  lift  him  out,  and  either 
break  his  neck  by  bending  his  head  back  Kill  Im- 
smartly,  or  give  him  a  rap  on  the  base  of  mediately 
the  head  with  the  back  of  your  hunting-knife.  In 
any  and  every  case  kill  him  as  soon  as  possible  after 
capture,  providing  you  wish  to  keep  him.  If  not, 
gloat  over  his  beauty  for  not  too  long  a  time  and 
return  him  to  the  stream  to  grow  and  to  gladden  the 
hearts  of  your  happy  successors. 

There  is  a  foolish  notion  abroad  that  trout  taste 
better  if  allowed  to  die  slowly,  but,  even  if  this  were 
true,  no  such  bloodthirsty  cruelty  would  be  justifiable. 
The  real  sportsman  is  always  humane,  and  loves  his 
game  even  while  killing  it. 

This  seems  the  proper  place  to  urge  upon  the 
autumn  fisherman  never  to  kill  female  trout  at  that 
season,  but  to  return  them  to  the  water,  as  then  they 
are  full  of  nearly  ripe  eggs.  A  gravid  female  can 
usually  be  told  by  the  contour  of  the  belly.  A  slight 
squeeze  will  often  cause  the  spawn  to  exude. 

If  the  fish  are  to  be  eaten  within  a  few  hours  it 
makes  little  difference  how  they*  are  kept,  though 
they  should  be  protected  from  both  sun  Keeping 
and  water.  The  latter  has  the  worst  Fish 

effect  and  dead  fish  must  not  be  allowed  to  lie  in 
water.  In  the  creel  they  should  be  kept  in  dry 
moss  or  leaves.  A  good  rule,  especially  when  the 


260  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

trout  are  to  be  eaten  after  twelve  hours,  is  to  wipe 
the  fish  dry  and  cover  them  carefully,  so  that  the 
sun  will  not  touch  them.  When  shipped  they  should 
be  cleaned,  wiped  dry,  and  done  up  individually  in 
stout  paper  (wax  or  parchment  paper  best),  or  in 
cloth,  so  that  the  ice,  in  which  the  fish  must  be 
packed,  will  not  come  in  direct  contact  with  them. 
If  there  is  no  ice  wipe  the  cleaned  fish  dry  and  rub 
salt  along  the  backbone.  In  all  cases  where  the  fish 
are  to  be  a  day  on  the  journey  rub  with  salt.  An  old 
woodsman's  trick  is  to  sun-bake  for  a  few  minutes, 
until  the  skin  is  dried  stiff,  and  then  keep  from  the 
sun  and  wet.  In  this  state  the  fish  are  not  handsome 
but  remain  fresh. 

Cleaned  and  salted  fish,  wiped  dry  and  folded 
individually  in  cloth,  the  whole  bundle  then  sewn 
up  in  stout  canvas  or  some  other  material,  will  keep 
a  long  time  without  ice.  The  eyes  and  gills  must  be 
removed.  The  split  is  made  down  the  back. 

Split  along  the  back,  clean,  and  salt  well.  (It  is 
better  to  let  them  lie  in  brine  overnight.)  Then  lay 
Curing  upon  racks  over  a  heavy  smudge,  where 
Fish  they  should  remain  for  two  days.  This 

requires  attention,  and  many  fish  are  spoiled  because 
no  one  remains  in  camp  to  keep  the  smudge  going. 

Many  are  the  laments  that  the  beautiful  colouring 
of  our  brook-trout  fades  within  a  short  time  after 
Preserving  capture,  but  Mr.  J.  H.  Keene  tells  us 
the  Colour  that,  if  each  trout  is  wrapped  separately 
in  a  sheet  of  tissue  paper  the  moment  it  is  killed, 
"it  will  keep  for  many  hours  as  bright  as  if  fresh 
from  the  water." 


Fishing  261 

Some  of  our  northern  brooks,  and  even  lakelets, 
are  enclosed  with  banks  so  overgrown  with  dense 
jungle  that  the  use  of  the  net,  except  in  Bush 

places  where  wading  is  practicable,  is  Fishing 
impossible.  For  such  fishing  a  delicate  rod  should  not 
be  used,  but  a  considerably  stiff er  one  with  a  top 
strong  enough  to  lift  out  any  fish  likely  to  be  taken. 
For  this  work  I  have  found  the  right  thing  to  be  a 
6  J-oz.  wooden  rod  with  a  top  cut  down  to  about  f  its 
original  length.  The  leader  should  not  be  over  4 
or  5  feet  long,  as  it  is  often  awkward  to  have  the  fly 
farther  than  that  from  the  tip  in  certain  brush- 
overhung  pools,  where  the  rod  must  be  thrust  through 
narrow  openings  in  the  foliage.  Acquire  the  habit 
of  looking  behind  you  before  every  cast,  to  avoid 
being  "hung  up. " 

+ 
In  fishing  a  wooded  stream  there  are  two  ways  of 

carrying  the  mounted  rod,  butt  foremost  and  tip 
foremost.  Of  these  either  will  do  if  the  Carrying 
bushes  are  not  thick,  but  in  dense  jungle  the  Rod 
carry  the  tip  pointed  ahead,  as  by  the  other  method 
one's  flies  are  constantly  being  caught  in  the  foliage. 
If  the  tip  points  ahead  one  can  aim  it  so  that  it  will 
avoid  the  danger  points.  But  be  very  careful  or  you 
will  run  your  tip  against  a  tree,  and  then  vale  top! 
The  more  flies  one  uses  the  more  annoying  is  a  walk 
through  thick  bush.  In  case  one  has  to  walk  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  or  more  it  is  generally  economy 
of  time  and  temper  to  take  down  the  rod. 

When  "hung  up"  in  a  lofty  branch  subdue  your 
rising  temper  at  once,  and  give  a  little  dry  twitch, 
very  light,  just  to  ascertain  how  strongly  the  hook 


262  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

is  fixed,  as  often  such  a  twitch  will  result  in  freeing 
the  hook.  If  fast  do  not  jerk  frantically,  but  coolly 
Getting  diagnose  the  situation.  There  are  several 
"Hung  Up"  things  to  do.  If  you  possess  a  "releaser,  " 
of  which  there  are  several  on  the  market,  attach  it 
to  the  tip  of  your  rod  and  cut  the  branch  just  below 
the  imprisoned  hook.  If  too  high  or  in  too  large  a 
branch  climb  the  tree,  or  bend  down  the  branch,  or 
lop  it  off  with  a  hatchet,  or  cut  the  tree  down,  if 
small.  If  you  decide  to  sacrifice  the  fly,  pull  steadily 
on  the  line  until  something  parts,  and  try  to  do  it 
smilingly.  Above  all  do  not  jerk  the  rod  or  the  top 
will  go,  especially  if  of  solid  wood. 

H.  P.  Wells:  Fly-Rods  and  Fly-Tackle;  Salmon  and 
Trout,  in  the  American  Sportsman's  Library;  Fly- 
B  «  Fishing  and  Fly-Tackle,  by  J.  H.  Keene; 

L.  Rhead:  The  Speckled  Brook  Trout;  Or- 
vis  and  Cheney:  Fishing  with  the  Fly;  Mary  Orvis 
Marbury:  Favorite  Flies  and  Their  History;  Edward 
A.  Samuels:  With  Fly-Rod  and  Camera;  Charles 
Bradford:  The  Angler's  Guide. 

There  are  legions  of  charming  books  on  trout-fishing, 
but  most  are  more  concerned  with  the  picturesque 
side  of  the  sport  than  the  technical. 

DRY-FLY    FISHING 

The  dry-fly  is  an  exact  imitation  of  some  natural 
insect,  fashioned  as  truly  like  the  original  as  the  most 
experienced  and  delicate-handed  masters  of  the  art 
of  fly-tying  can  make  it,  except  for  the  hook,  which 
is  a  wee  sma'  thing,  hardly  ever  larger  than  our  No. 
12  and  often  much  smaller.  Its  body  is  made  of 
cork  or  straw  to  make  it  buoyant,  and,  attached  to 


Fishing  263 

a  leader  of  almost  invisible  delicacy,  it  is  allowed  to 
fall  upon  the  water  in,  or  a  few  feet  above,  the  ring 
made  by  a  rising  trout  and  float  down  over  the  spot 
with  the  current,  which  necessarily  must  be  gentle. 
The  idea,  of  course,  is  not 
a  novel  one,  but  within  a 
dozen  years  or  thereabouts 
a  distinct  school  of  dry- 
fly  anglers  has  arisen  in 

,,  -       FIG.  57.— English  Dry-Flies ; 

England,  the  adherents  of  Sedge  a^  Gnat 
which  are  almost  fanatical 

in  their  devotion  to  it,  and  would  rather  not  fish 
than  use  other  methods,  which,  it  must  be  confessed, 
are  founded  upon  the  highest  sportsmanship,  although 
over-narrow  in  their  application. 

The  first  great  difference  between  the  wet-  and  the 
dry-fly  angler  is  that  the  former  holds  it  a  part  of 
his  skill  to  discover  the  likely  places  where  the  big 
ones  are  waiting,  while  his  "purist"  brother  never 
casts  his  fly  (always  a  single  one)  until  he  sees  a 
rising  fish.  He  may  discover  a  dozen  in  the  stream 
but,  if  they  be  not  feeding,  he  must  wait  until  they 
do.  As  this  method  of  angling  is  practised  for  the 
most  part  on  the  clear,  quiet  chalk  streams  of  Eng- 
land, where  the  fish  are  "educated"  and  the  lim- 
pidity of  the  water  allows  them  to  see  the  angler 
easily,  recourse  is  had  to  stalking  the  trout,  i.  e.,  ap- 
proaching under  cover  as  much  as  possible,  and  even 
on  hands  and  knees  or  crawling.  Arriving  within 
range  of  the  ring  made  by  the  rising  fish  the  line  is 
switched  a  number  of  times  through  the  air  until  the 
proper  length  has  been  drawn  from  the  reel.  This  is 
in  order  that  no  false  cast  shall  be  made,  but  the  fly 
fall  in  the  right  spot  the  very  first  time.  AH  must  be 


264  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

clean,  delicate  and  deliberate.  If  the  fish  fails  to 
notice  the  fly,  which  of  course  has  been  chosen  to 
imitate  the  flies  actually  on  the  water  at  the  moment, 
another  fly  is  tried  after  one  or  two  further  casts. 

It  was  inevitable  that  American  fishermen  should 
wish  to  transfer  to  their  own  waters  this  highest  de- 
velopment of  the  art  of  angling,  and  many  of  us 
have  practised  it  here  as  we  were  taught  on  the  Itchen 
or  the  Test,  but,  so  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  gather, 
with  indifferent  success,  at  least  in  the  waters  of 
the  north  woods.  The  reason  for  this  lies  in  the  fact 
that  jontinalis,  except  in  preserved  ponds,  disdains 
dead  bait.  I  have  frequently,  after  faithfully  allow- 
ing my  dry-fly  to  float  down  over  the  fish  without 
success,  resorted  to  using  the  same  fly  as  if  it  were  a 
Professor  or  a  Silver-Doctor  and  at  once  captured 
my  fish.  Another  reason  may  be  that  hitherto 
Americans  have  not  been  able  to  purchase  dry-flies 
tied  in  imitation  of  American  insects,  but  have  been 
obliged  to  be  content  with  English  importations — a 
state  of  affairs  hardly  creditable  to  our  tackle-dealers. 

F.  Halford's  Dry  Fly  Fishing  and  Floating  Flies; 
Sir  Edward  Grey's  Fly  Fishing;  G.  De war's 
Book   of   the   Dry   Fly;   Sidney   Buxton's 
Shooting  and  Fishing. 

BAIT-FISHING    FOR    TROUT 

The  rod  for  bait-fishing  may  be  from  9  to  10  feet 
long  and  have  the  reel-seat  either  below  or  above  the 

handle.     Split-bamboo    is  excellent,   but, 
Tackle 

as    the    top    must    be    strong    enough    to 

"derrick  out"  the  fish  occasionally  without  a  net,  I 


Fishing  265 

prefer  a  wooden  fly-rod  the  top  of  which  has  been 
cut  down  to  two  thirds  its  original  length.  This 
will  throw  a  line  far  enough  and  can  be  used  as  a 
fly-rod  for  bush-fishing.  Any  reel  will  do,  the  handle 
of  which  does  not  protrude  far  enough  to  foul  the 
line.  It  need  not  be  large,  as  few  very  long  casts 
will  be  necessary.  An  enamelled  line  is  best,  as  it 
tangles  less  easily.  Hooks  are  a  matter  of  taste. 
Long-shanked  ones  are  best  for  worm-fishing  and  they 
should  have  gut  snells.  The  sneck  style  is  good  for 
worm.  Nos.  8  and  10  are  the  right  sizes.  Buy  best 
quality  hooks,  and  if  your  hooks  must  have  a  weak- 
ness let  them  rather  bend  than  break,  for  then  they 
can  be  recovered  from  snag  or  tree  and  be  put  in 
commission  again.  A  small  swivel  sinker  is  some- 
times used  in  deep,  swift  water,  but  usually  one  or 
two  split-shot  suffice,  and  often,  perhaps  mostly,  no 
sinker  at  all  need  be  used,  as  in  quick  water  the  trout 
feed  near  the  surface.  The  best  bait  is  the  old  re- 
liable angleworm,  scornfully  dubbed  the  "garden- 
hackle"  by  the  fly-fisherman.  The  supply  should 
never  be  kept  in  dirt,  but  in  clean  moss,which  bright- 
ens and  toughens  the  worms,  and  moss  should  also 
be  placed  in  the  pocket  bait-box  of  tin,  the  best 
pattern  being  the  rounded  boxes  that  have  slots 
for  the  belt. 

Grubs  of  many  kinds  and  several  natural  flies  form 
good  bait,  and  so  do  small  pieces  of  trout  or  perch, 
especially  a  narrow  strip  including  the  bright  belly- 
fin,  from  which  the  celebrated  north  woods  fly,  the 
Parmachenee  Belle,  was  imitated  by  Mr.  Wells. 
Minnows  are  excellent  bait  in  large  streams  and  lakes. 
They  are  kept  in  minnow-pails,  several  kinds  of 
which  are  on  the  market.  In  capturing  a  supply  of 


266  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

minnows,  nets  may  be  employed,  or,  better  still, 
the  Or  vis  minnow- trap  ($3),  which,  baited  with 
cracker-crumbs,  is  set  in  the  brook  in  the  evening 
to  be  taken  out  filled  with  live  minnows  in  the 
morning.  Another  trap,  of  wire,  costs  $1.50.  The 
hook  is  passed  through  the  back  near  the  dorsal 
fin.  The  minnow  dies  slowly  and  is  good  so  long  as 
it  wriggles.  It  is  a  cruel  sport  and  I  sincerely  hope 
you  will  have  none  of  it. 

Whatever  the  bait,  drop  it  into  the  most  likely 
spots  with  as  little  commotion  as  possible,  being 
Meth  d  careful  to  cast  no  shadows  upon  the  water, 
and  to  show  yourself  as  little  as  may  be. 
In  spring  the  fish  will  be  found  near  the  surface  and 
no  sinker  is  necessary,  the  bait  swaying  about  in 
the  ripples.  Later,  when  the  weather  gets  hot,  deep 
fishing  in  the  pools  will  be  more  productive.  Fish 
every  likely  place  and  fish  it  thoroughly.  As  a 
general  rule  the  bait  is  kept  moving,  even  if  only 
slightly.  The  fly-fisherman  must  entice  the  fish 
to  the  very  surface,  but  a  bait-fisher  can  seek  out 
his  quarry  in  its  very  lair,  and  for  this  reason,  so  the 
common  belief  runs,  the  very  biggest  old  whoppers 
are  more  likely  to  fall  a  prey  to  bait.  When  you 
see  or  feel  a  bite  let  the  fish  have  the  bait  for  the 
fraction  of  a  second  before  striking,  but  not  too  long 
or  you  may  have  to  cut  or  tear  the  hook  out  of  his 
gullet.  This  disgusting  necessity,  as  well  as  the 
handling  of  dirty  worms,  is  not  necessary  in  fly-fishing. 

Trolling  for  brook-trout  may  be  done  with  phan- 
toms of  small  size  or  with  bright-coloured 
flies.     It    is    rather    unsportsmanlike    and 
fortunately  results  generally  in  meagre  catches. 


Fishing  267 

I  feel  some  compunction  in  mentioning  bait- 
fishing  for  brook-trout,  believing  as  I  do  that  fly- 
fishing is  not  only  a  far  more  artistic  and  . 
enjoyable  sport,  but  also  one  that  can  be 
indulged  at  any  time  and  place  that  bait-fishing  is 
practised,  the  exceptions  being  very  few.  I  therefore 
say  to  the  novice-angler,  do  not  take  up  bait-fishing 
for  trout,  at  least  not  at  first.  I  am  glad  to  place 
on  record  the  fact  that  I  have  never  met  a  bait- 
fisherman  who,  having  once  given  fly-fishing  a  fair 
trial,  ever  returned  to  the  coarser  sport  as  a  practice. 

Even  the  little  meadow  streamlets  where  the  fly 
is  almost  never  used  can  be  fished  and  fished  well 
with  it,  as  I  have  often  proved  to  my  own  satis- 
faction, midge-flies  on  gossamer  leaders  being  used. 
There  are,  of  course,  pools  so  encompassed  with 
bushes  and  underbrush  that  the  manipulation  of  a 
fly  is  impossible,  but  many  of  these  may  still  be 
fished  by  the  employment  of  some  legitimate  ruse, 
such  as  floating  the  fly  down  from  above.  I  have 
even  seen  a  fly  so  floated  down  under  underhanging 
trees  on  a  piece  of  bark,  and  spilled  into  the  water  at 
the  proper  spot,  to  be  dragged  back  to  the  resourceful 
fisherman  together  with  a  finny  prize.  In  fly-fishing 
there  is  no  dirty  bait  to  handle  and  renew  every 
minute,  the  trout  is  hooked  through  the  nerveless 
lips  with  no  consequent  pain,  the  pleasure  of  casting 
far  and  delicately  is  ours,  as  well  as  the  wonderful 
joy  of  seeing .  the  whole  process  of  the  rise  and  the 
hooking. 

President  Cleveland  (my  ideal  in  many  ways)  has 
had  his  fling  at  the  affectations  and  the  pretensions 
of  the  fly-fisherman,  and  doubtless  these  exist,  but 
he  may  be  assured  that  our  joy  in  our  art,  and  our 


268  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

conviction  that  it  is  in  many  ways  superior  to  bait- 
fishing  are  founded  upon  no  affectation  whatever. 


LAKE-TROUT 

The  " Great  Lake-Trout"  (Cristivomer  namaycush) , 
called  also  in  different  parts  of  the  north  woods  region 
Togue,  Lunge,  Siscowet,  Forked-Tail,  etc.,  is  the 
largest  of  the  charrs,  growing  to  a  weight  of  nearly 
100  Ibs.,  though  the  average  will  be  about  6  or  7  Ibs., 
a  very  large  one  weighing  15  to  20  Ibs.  It  is  easily 
recognised  by  its  greyish  (light  or  dark)  colouring, 
the  vermicular  markings  on  its  back,  the  forked  tail, 
long  head,  and  the  toothed  ridge  on  the  roof  of  its 
mouth  (Latin  crista,  crest,  and  vomer,  vomer). 

It  can  be  taken  with  large  flies  if  found  in  the  proper 
water,  for  example  at  the  mouths  'of  rivers  or  on 
ledges  in  lakes.  This,  however,  is  very  seldom  the 
lot  of  fishermen,  and  recourse  is  usually  had  to  troll- 
ing, which  in  spring,  when  the  trout  comes  to  the  sur- 
face, is  done  with  a  long  cotton  or  braided  silk  line, 
a  light  sinker,  and  a  spoon  with  a  single,  or  two  single, 
hooks.  The  reel  should  be  a  multiplier,  and  the  rod 
a  stout  and  short  one.  A  dead  minnow  attached  to 
a  snell  or  wire  with  one  or  two  hooks  is  an  excellent 
lure  in  spring.  Summer  trolling  is  usually  done  with 
a  sinker  weighing  from  a  quarter  up  to  a  full  pound, 
according  to  the  depth  of  the  lake  and  the  character 
of  the  bottom,  a  strong  twisted  leader,  and  a  shiner 
impaled  upon  some  kind  of  gang  or  spinner.  Nine 
hooks  in  clusters  of  three  are  not  uncommon,  but 
are  anathema  in  the  real  sportsman's  eyes.  The 
legitimate  contrivance  has  a  lip-hook  and  a  single 
larger  hook  at  the  minnow's  tail.  The  sinker  is  often 


Fishing  269 

suspended  on  a  separate  short  line,  weaker  than  the 
trolling-line,  so  that,  if  it  gets  caught  on  the  bottom, 
it  will  break  first.  The  rod  should  be  a  regular 
trolling-rod.  There  is  little  sport  in  deep  trolling, 
as  the  heavy  sinker  and  long  line  give  even  a  strong 
fish  little  chance  to  display  his  gameness  and  he  is 
generally  exhausted  before  he  reaches  the  surface. 
Still-fishing  for  lake-trout  is  a  common  practice, 
and  is  done  at  a  baited  buoy,  pieces  of  meat  and  other 
feed  being  sunk  round  the  buoy  daily.  A  heavy 
sinker  is  used  on  a  hand-line,  with  a  dead  minnow 
for  a  lure,  it  being  kept  in  motion  by  movements 
of  the  hand. 

SEA-TROUT 

Europe  possesses  a  real  sea-trout,  a  species  all  by 
itself,  the  Salmo  trntta,  but  the  fish  dubbed  sea-trout 
on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic,  the  familiar  "salter, " 
is  nothing  more  nor  less  than  our  dear  old  friend  the 
brook-trout,  which,  more  enterprising  than  his 
brothers,  periodically  descends  into  the  ocean,  prob- 
ably for  the  sake  of  better  feed.  Here  he  waxes 
exceeding  big,  and  his  pristine  bright  colouring  becomes 
so  silvered  over  that  up  till  a  few  years  ago  he  was 
suspected  of  being,  like  his  British  namesake,  a 
separate  species. 

The  sea-trout  run  into  the  Long  Island  streams 
about  the  beginning  of  May,  during  which  month 
they  also  appear  in  southern  Massachusetts  and  in 
Nova  Scotia,  particularly  on  the  southern  coast  of 
the  latter  province,  where  the  Jordan  and  other 
streams  abound  in  them.  A  little  later  they  appear 
in  New  Brunswick,  Quebec  and  Newfoundland,  the 
Bay  Chaleur  in  New  Brunswick  being  famous  for 


2  70  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

them,  though  Newfoundland  offers  very  fine  sea- 
trout  fishing. 

It  is  the  general  consensus  of  opinion  that,  pound 
for  pound,  the  sea-trout  is  gamier  than  his  stay-at- 
home  brother,  and  he  grows  larger.  The  best  rod 
to  use  in  angling  for  him  is  a  strong  trout  fly-rod, 
say  10  to  10 J  feet  long  and  weighing  about  6  or  7 
ounces,  or  even  a  trifle  more.  The  leader  should  be 
stout.  Bright-coloured  flies,  like  the  Parmachenee 
Belle,  Silver-Doctor,  White-and-Scarlet  Ibis,  Dr. 
Breck,  etc.  on  number  4  and  6  hooks  are  generally 
used.  Sea-trout  are  most  readily  found  in  pools 
situated  at  the  head  of  tide-water,  and  the  most 
favourable  time  is  at  young  flood  or  young  ebb  tide. 
They  lie,  like  salmon,  at  the  tail  of  the  pools.  Canoe- 
fishing  is  usual. 

Read  Sea-Trout  Fishing,  by  Arthur  P.  Silver,  in 
Outing  for  August,  1907. 

OTHER    TROUT     IN     EASTERN     WATERS 

It  is  a  matter  of  the  deepest  regret  that,  on  account 
of  the  denuding  of  mother  earth  of  her  stately  trees 
by  the  inexorable  demands  of  what  we  are  pleased 
to  call  civilisation,  the  waters  of  a  great  number 
of  our  streams  and  lakes  have  already  become  too 
warm  for  our  native  charr,  the  peerless  fontinalis, 
or  brook-trout.  More  and  more,  therefore,  must  we 
look  about  for  a  satisfactory  substitute,  and  for- 
tunately the  fish-culturists  are  able  to  supply  us 
with  other  varieties  of  trout,  which  thrive  in  water 
several  degrees  too  torrid  for  our  native  fish,  and 
which  are  strong  and  gamey  fish  and  grow  to  a  larger 
size,  though  we  will  never  admit  their  equality  with 


Fishing  271 

our  brook-trout.  The  most  important  of  these  are 
the  Western  rainbow  trout  (Salmo  irideus)  and  the 
European  brown  trout  (Salmo  fario) .  Which  of  these 
two  is  the  best  colonist  has  not  yet  been  decided,  as 
experiments  with  the  rainbow  have  as  yet  been  too 
infrequent  and  sporadic  to  found  a  judgment  upon. 
The  brown  trout,  the  classic  fish  of  Great  Britain 
and  Germany,  has  been  very  successfully  planted  in 
many  American  streams  and  seems  to  thrive  finely, 
even  in  streams  the  banks  of  which  have  been  quite 
denuded  of  trees.  The  fish  has  been  praised  very 
highly  by  those  who  have  angled  for  it  here,  and  no 
doubt  it  is  a  good  fighter.  My  own  opinion,  however, 
founded  on  some  years'  experience  of  both  fish  in 
their  native  waters,  is  that  the  brown  trout  must 
yield  the  palm  for  gameness  to  our  own  fontinalis, 
while  for  beauty  our  charr  is  peerless.  It  is  not 
unlikely  that  the  brown  trout,  when  acclimated  in 
the  somewhat  cooler  waters  of  this  country,  becomes 
a  harder  fighter  than  in  Europe.  We  shall  be  obliged 
to  learn  more  and  more  about  it  as  the  axeman  and 
sawyer  ply  their  deadly  trade  year  by  year. 

THE    GRAYLING 

The  American  Grayling  (Thymallus  tricolor),  an 
offshoot  of  the  salmon  family,  was  probably  abundant 
formerly  in  many  parts  of  the  continent,  but  is  now 
found  in  a  few  regions  of  the  middle  Northwest, 
especially  in  the  streams  of  Michigan.  It  is  a  hand- 
some and  gamey  fish  which  readily  takes  the  fly,  and 
is  of  a  delicious  flavour.  Unlike  other  members  of 
the  salmonidce,  the  grayling  spawns  in  spring.  It 
lives  less  in  tumultuous  water  than  in  the  deeper 


272  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

parts  of  the  stream,  and  rises  abruptly  to  the  lure. 
Three  quarters  of  a  pound  is  a  good  average  weight 
according  to  Norris.  It  has  a  slimmer  body  than 
the  trout,  a  small  head  with  prominent  eyes,  a  forked 
tail,  and,  its  most  distinguishing  mark,  the  large 
dorsal  fin,  which  shimmers  in  the  light  with  iri- 
descent colors. 

The  Montana  Grayling  (Thymallus  montanus)  is 
found  only  in  the  tributaries  of  the  Missouri  River 
above  the  Great  Falls.  It  is  similar  in  colouring  to 
the  Michigan  fish,  but  is  slenderer  and  has  larger 
scales. 

Light  trout-tackle  may  be  used,  with  very  small 
flies.  Dr.  Henshall  recommends  the  following  pat- 
terns, but  says  that  a  red  tag  should  replace  the 
usual  tail  and  that  the  wings  should  be  narrow  and 
split:  Professor,  Queen-of -the- Water,  Oconomowoc, 
Lord-Baltimore,  Coachman,  Henshall  and  Grizzly- 
King.  Two  flies  of  different  shades  should  be  used 
at  once.  The  flies  are  allowed  to  sink  and  then 
retrieved. 

Read  J.  A.  Henshall's  Bass,  Pike,  Perch,  and 
Others. 

SALMON  FISHING 

There  are  several  varieties  of  Pacific  Ocean  salmon, 
all  distinct  from  the  Atlantic  species,  but,  as  they  do 
not  commonly  take  the  fly,  they  are  of  little  interest 
to  the  north  woods  angler.  The  Atlantic  salmon 
(Salmo  salar),  which  frequents  the  streams  of  eastern 
Canada  and  Newfoundland,  as  well  as  north-western 
Europe,  is  generally  acknowledged  to  be  the  king  of 
game  fish,  both  on  account  of  his  size  and  his  fighting 


Fishing  2  73 

qualities.  Unfortunately  he  has  many  powerful 
enemies,  the  greed  of  the  net-fishermen  at  the  river- 
mouths,  the  enterprise  of  the  pulp  and  lumber  dealers, 
and  the  failure  of  many  local  governments  to  prevent 
netting  and  to  provide  fish-ladders,  so  that  the 
salmon  can  ascend  mill-dam  falls  to  reach  their 
spawning-beds.  Thus  such  rivers  as  the  Hudson, 
Connecticut,  and  Merrimac,  once  good  salmon  streams, 
now  know  the  grand  fish  no  more,  and  even  the  great 
rivers  of  Maine  are  fast  being  abandoned  by  them. 
The  progress  of  industry  cannot  be  arrested. 

The  magnificent  streams  which  flow  into  the  St. 
Lawrence  Gulf  and  River  produce  the  largest  salmon 
on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic — perhaps,  if  an  average 
be  struck,  in  the  world;  but  practically  every  good 
stream  in  the  province  of  Quebec,  in  which  nearly 
all  the  best  of  them  are  situated,  is  rented  by  the 
government  to  private  clubs  or  individuals,  for 
annual  sums  ranging  from  a  few  hundreds  to  many 
thousands  of  dollars,  and  the  ordinary  mortal  who 
is  not  fortunate  enough  to  receive  an  invitation  to 
fish  these  choice  waters,  the  famous  Restigouche 
and  its  tributaries,  the  Cascapedia,  the  Moisie,  York, 
St.  Marguerite,  etc.,  must  repair  to  the  free  fishing 
of  Newfoundland  (no  license  fee),  where  salmon  are 
very  abundant,  though  smaller  than  in  Canada.  The 
La  Have  and  Port  Medway  Rivers  in  Nova  Scotia 
and  the  Magaree  River  in  Cape  Breton  are  also  fair 
salmon  waters  and  have  hitherto  been  free,  but 
private  clubs  have  already  begun  to  sequester  some 
of  the  best  pools.  The  fish  run  very  early  in  Nova 
Scotia,  there  being  little  salmon  fishing  after  the 
first  days  of  June,  though  grilse  may  be  taken.  The 
Canadian  license-fee  for  fishermen  who  are  not 


2  74  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

British  subjects  is  a  farce  in  Nova  Scotia  and  in  some 
other  provinces,  not  being  enforced. 

Newfoundland  is  the  paradise  of  the  salmon  angler 
of  moderate  means.  Its  streams  are  best  reached 
from  Sidney,  N.  S.,  or  St.  John's,  Newf.  The  Reid 
Newfoundland  Company  of  St.  John's  furnishes 
folders  containing  exact  information  about  fishing, 
accommodations,  etc.  So  many  people  fish  these 
streams  nowadays  that  it  is  usually  easy  to  find  some 
acquaintance  who  can  furnish  first-hand  references 
and  information.  Labrador  promises  fine  salmon- 
fishing,  but  is  hard  to  reach  (by  steamer  from  St. 
John's). 

Salmon  spawn  in  late  autumn  on  gravelly  shallows 
in  the  streams  where  they  were  born,  the  eggs  hatch- 
ing in  from  80  to  100  days,  according  to 
temperature.  The  fry  (length  at  six  weeks 
about  if  inches)  remain  in  the  parent  stream  for  one, 
two,  or  even  three  years.  At  first  they  are  distin- 
guished by  vertical  bluish  bars  on  their  sides  and 
are  called  parr.  They  then  lose  these  bars,  turn 
silvery,  and  are  called  smolt.  In  case  this  happens 
early  in  the  spring  the  smolt  go  down  to  the  sea 
and  remain  there  not  longer  than  ten  weeks,  returning 
to  their  home  stream  as  grilse,  with  an  average  increase 
in  weight  of  from  three  to  six  pounds  in  this  short 
time.  These  grilse  go  back  to  the  sea  the  last  of 
autumn  and  are  most  likely  to  reascend  the  home 
stream  the  next  spring  as  "full-fledged"  salmon,  with 
another  considerable  increase  in  weight.  If,  however, 
a  smolt  should  remain  nine  or  ten  months  in  the  sea 
instead  of  as  many  weeks,  it  will  skip  the  grilse  state 
and  return  the  next  spring  as  a  small  salmon.  After 


Fishing  275 

spawning,  the  fish,  now  played-out  and  bedraggled 
kelts,  return  to  the  salt  water  in  February  or  March. 
The  above  general  facts,  taken  from  C.  Pennell,  are 
subject  to  unimportant  exceptions.  To  distinguish 
between  a  salmon  and  a  grilse  is  difficult  for  a  be- 
ginner. Beyond  the  fact  that  grilse  are  usually 
(though  not  always)  smaller  than  salmon,  it  may 
be  said  that  the  scales  of  a  grilse  are  smaller,  while 
the  fins  are  larger  and  longer  than  those  of  a  salmon 
of  like  size.  The  salmon's  scales  are  less  easily  rubbed 
off  and  its  tail  is  much  less  forked. 

The  average  grilse  weighs  a  trifle  over  3  pounds, 
though  individuals  may  run  to  twice  that  weight. 
An  adult  Salmo  solar  may  weigh  anything 
from  3  to  55  pounds,  with  an  occasional 
giant  heavier  still.     The  average  in  the  great  New 
Brunswick  rivers  is  between  15  and  30  pounds,  46 
pounds   being   about   the   limit.     In   other   districts 
the  fish  run  considerably  smaller,   20  pounds  being 
heavy,  while  the  average  is  under  1 5  pounds. 

Unless  it  be  for  a  pair  of  high  mackintosh  waders 
or  wading-stockings,  there  is  no  essential  difference 
between  the  dress  of  the  salmon-fisherman  D 

and  that  of  the  camper,  though  on  many 
of  the  more  fashionable  salmon  rivers  somewhat 
more  elegance  is  often  affected,  even  the  "boiled 
shirt"  being  in  evidence.  Mornings  and  evenings 
it  is  apt  to  be  cold,  and  one  may  with  profit  accept 
the  advice  of  Mr.  Wells,  to  "clothe  one's  self  like 
an  onion,  and  be  prepared  to  peel  layer  after  layer 
as  the  day  advances.  "  As  salmon  pools  are  generally 


276  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

fished  from  permanent  camps,  high  waders,  not  to  be 
recommended  for  wilderness  journeys,  may  be  worn. 
They  should  come  up  above  the  waist,  or, 
better  still,  to  the  armpits.  Mackintosh 
trousers  with  feet  (but  without  shoes  attached),  and 
worn  inside  heavy  fishing-brogues,  are  better  than 
long  boots,  as  they  can  be  turned  inside  out  and 
dried  easily. 1  At  least  two  pairs  of  thick  woollen  socks 
should  be  worn  with  them.  Waders  should  be  dried 
often  or  they  will  rot.  Hang  them  in  the  sun  or  fill 
them  with  heated  pebbles  or  grain  of  some  kind. 
Neither  waders  nor  leather  shoes  should  ever  be 
dried  by  the  fire.  Several  firms  now  make  very 
high  waterproof  leather  boots,  which  are  more  com- 
fortable than  mackintosh  and  far  more  durable. 

Q.J  - .  A  suit  of  yachting  oilskins  will  always  be 

found  a  great  boon,  or,  if  waders  are  worn, 
an  oilskin  coat  long  enough  to  cover  the  tops.  If  the 
fishing  is  from  a  canoe  the  long  rubber  fishing-shirt 
is  not  bad. 

Don't  forget  fly-dope  and  head-net  (see  Personal 

Outfit).     Thick  gloves  with  the  ends  of  the  fingers 

cut  of!  are  excellent  to  foil  the  flies.     They 

should  be  at  least  two  sizes  too  large  for 

ordinary  wear.     Mr.    Wells  recommends   that   they 

be  worn  with  linen  gauntlets  provided  with  elastic. 

TACKLE 

For   the  larger   American   streams   the   rod   need 

1  If  rubber  or  mackintosh  high  boots  are  worn,  the  new 
kind,  with  hobnailed  leather  soles,  should  be  chosen,  as 
rubber  is  too  tender  for  rocky  country. 


Fishing  277 

never  exceed  15 J  feet  in  length,  while  for  the  smaller 
rivers,  or  waters  where  the  salmon  seldom 

ixOQS 

run  over  23  pounds,  14  feet  will  be  found 
ample.  Do  not  be  persuaded  to  use  (unless  it  be 
for  tournament  casting)  an  English  or  Scottish 
" weaver's  beam"  of  1 8  or  20  feet.  There  is  no  space 
here  to  give  the  arguments  for  and  against  the  light 
salmon-rod,  but  they  can  be  found  in  Mr.  Wells 's 
American  Salmon-Fisherman,  and  they  make  out 
an  unanswerable  case  for  the  light  rod.  Of  course 
if  your  only  object  is  to  get  out  as  much  line  as  pos- 
sible, and  your  physical  powers  are  equal  to  a  very 
heavy  rod,  why,  then  get  one.  Mr.  Enright's  cast 
of  152  feet  was  made  with  a  2o-foot  greenheart,  but 
it  is  significant  that  American  casting  rules  make  no 
provision  for  a  rod  over  18  feet  in  length,  at  least  in 
1907. 


FlG.  58.— British  Salmon- Rod  Handle 

Both   split-bamboo   and  greenheart   are   excellent 
materials    for   salmon-rods,    but    bamboo   is   lighter 
and  livelier  in  action.     Expense  must  be  no  object 
when  buying  a  salmon-rod,  as  the  best  is  none  too 
good.     If,  however,  you  do  not  care  to  pay  $45  or 
more  for  an  American  split-bamboo  rod,  $25  will  buy 
a  good,  though  heavy,  greenheart.     If  the   G  ..         . 
fishing  is  to  be  for  grilse  only,  the  rod  need 
not  be  longer  than  n  feet,  and  a  powerful  trout-rod 
will  do  nearly  as  well. 

British  rods  are  generally  capped  at  the  butt  with 


278  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

flat  wooden,  or,  better,  soft  rubber  buttons,  which 

Butt-rest      can  ^e  more  comfortably  braced  against 

the   body  than   our   metal   caps.     If   the 

latter  are  used,  or  if  big  fish  are  likely  to  be  killed, 

a  leathern  butt-rest,  worn 
with  a  strap  round  the 
waist,  should  be  used,  as 
it  greatly  relieves  the 
muscles  when  playing  a 

heavy  fish. 

FIG.  50  — Butt-Rest  ™,      r  •  j  -,  ,  1 

The  first  guide  and  the 

tip  of  a  salmon-rod  are  generally  of  agate. 

The  reel,  always  single-action,  should  properly 
balance  the  rod,  should  be  about  if  inches  in  the 
R  .  width  of  the  winding-barrel,  and  be  pro- 

vided with  a  tension-screw  (on  the  opposite 
side  from  the  handle)  or  adjustable  drag,  by  which 
the  running  can  be  made  harder  if  necessary.  Gen- 
erally, of  course,  the  reel  should  work  with  the  utmost 
smoothness  and  ease,  the  drag  being  applied  only 
in  the  stress  of  battle.  For  large  streams  the  capacity 
of  the  reel  should  be  120  yards.  American  salmon- 
reels  cost  from  $15  to  $25;  Malloch's  Scottish  reels 
cost  about  $10  (bought  in  Canada) ;  Hardy's  the  same. 
Each  reel  should  have  a  stout  leathern  case. 

Salmon-lines  of  enamelled  silk  are  now  made  in  many 
varieties.  A  taper  is  usually  preferred.  As  the  line 
,.  should  be  at  least  100  yards  long  and  would 

cost,  if  entirely  of  silk,  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  $12.00,  it  is  usual  to  splice  a  60-  or  4o-yard  salmon- 
line  to  80  or  100  yards  of  Cuttyhunk  linen  line,  No.  15, 
which  is  very  strong,  and  which  does  not  come  into 


Fishing  279 

action  except  when  the  fish  is  hooked  and  has  run 
quite  far,  so  that  it  does  not  interfere  with  casting. 
The  splicing  should  be  done  in  a  tackle-shop  unless 
the  angler  is  an  expert  in  such  matters.  (See  Wells' s 
American  Salmon-Fisherman.)  On  smaller  streams 
60  yards  will  generally  be  found  enough,  without 
piecing  with  linen.  A  bodkin  of  bone  or  ivory  is  a 
good  thing  to  unravel  knots  and  tangles  in  the  line. 
The  exact  size  of  line  is  impossible  to  give,  as  it  must 
fit  the  rod,  a  heavy  rod  requiring  a  larger  size,  so  as 
to  bring  out  all  its  power,  while  a  light  rod  cannot 
readily  take  much  length  of  heavy  line  from  the  water. 

The  classic  length  of  the  leader,  or  casting-line, 
is  9  feet,  tapered,  and,  as  it  should  be  of  single  gut, 
it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  it  be  above 
reproach  in  quality,  for  it  must  always 
remain  the  weakest  part  of  the  tackle,  and  a  time  is 
likely  to  come  when  one  must  "throw  finesse  to  the 
winds  and  make  a  direct  issue  between  the  strength 
of  the  fish  and  that  of  one's  tackle."  Therefore,  unless 
you  can  afford  to  buy  the  best  heavy  gut  ($10.00  to 
$12.00  per  100  strands  in  New  York)  and  tie  your 
own  casting-lines,  it  is  well  to  purchase  only  of  the 
most  reliable  dealers.  For  medium  weight,  sufficient 
for  Newfoundland  or  Nova  Scotia,  you  will  pay 
$1.50,  for  heavy  $2.00,  while  very  heavy  single-gut 
leaders  command  as  much  as  $3.00  and  $3.50.  Salmon- 
leaders  should  be  tested  to  10  pounds.  On  bright 
days  unstained  gut  is  the  best;  on  dark  days  mist 
colour  is  said  to  be  less  conspicuous,  though  I  rather 
doubt  this. 

Why  salmon  rise  to  the  fly,  since  they  eat  almost 


280  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

nothing  in  fresh  water,  is  one  of  those  things  "no 
fellow  can  tell."  Volumes  have  been  written  on  the 
subject,  which  is  complicated  by  the  ex- 
traordinary vagaries  of  the  fish,  that  have 
been  hooked  with  a  piece  of  caribou-skin,  a  glove- 
thumb,  a  mouse,  a  silver  coin,  a  live  butterfly,  and 
many  other  singular  baits,  all  attached,  of  course, 
to  hooks.  At  the  present  time  it  is  commonly  be- 
lieved that  the  flies  are  taken  for  food,  since  it  has 
been  proved  that  salmon  do  eat,  though  most 
sparingly,  in  fresh  water.  It  may  be  that  the 
fish  rise  more  from  instinctive  habit  than  from 
real  hunger;  perhaps  also  partly  from  jealousy,  to 
prevent  some  other  fish  from  mouthing  a  delicacy, 
somewhat  as  a  dog  will  eat,  even  when  already 
satisfied,  so  long  as  a  rival  stands  ready  to  seize 
what  remains. 

Bright-coloured  flies  prove  most  attractive  to 
salmon,  and  nearly  all  the  favourites  on  this  side 
of  the  Atlantic  are  of  that  description.  Among  the 
most  successful  may  be  mentioned:  Silver- Doctor, 
Jock-Scott,  Durham- Ranger,  Silver-Grey,  Butcher, 
Black-Dose,  Fiery-Brown,  Black-Fairy,  Dusty- Mil- 
ler, Popham,  all  resplendent  in  tinsel  and  bright 
feathers.  Two  or  three  sizes  of 
each  fly  chosen  should  be  in  your 
fly-book  or  box.  The  favourite 
hook  seems  now  to  be  the 
O'Shaughnessy,  with  Limerick  or 
Sproat  for  second  choice.  Double 

FIG.  60. — Salmon-Fly      r 

hooks  are  very  much  used,  espe- 
cially in  the  smaller  sizes,  but  the  correct  salmon- 
angler  rather  despises  them  as .  unsportsmanlike. 
Salmon-flies  are  provided  with  twisted  gut  loops,  and 


Fishing  281 

are   attached   to    the  leader    by   one    of   the    knots 
described    above   under    Trout-fly  Tackle. 

For  storing  flies,  as  well  as  for  the  supply  carried 
on  the  person,  special  moth-proof  boxes  and  cases 
may  be  had  of  the  dealers.  A  metal  pocket  box, 
holding  five  dozen  flies,  costs  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  $4.00,  while  the  stronger  and  more  elaborate  cases 
run  in  price  from  $12.00  to  $25.00. 

Though  grilse  and  salmon  up  to  ten  pounds  weight 
may  be  landed  in  the  largest  size  linen  nets,  the  correct 
thing  is  to  gaff  them,  and  in  the  purchase  G  ~ 

of  the  necessary  instrument  the  beginner 
has  no  choice  but  to  trust  to  his  dealer,  and  this  in 
spite  of  Mr.  Wells's  dictum  that  he  had  never  seen 
a  really  good  gaff  in  a  shop.     That  was,  however, 


FIG.  61. — Salmon-Gaffs 

in  1887,  and  his  strictures  have  probably  borne 
fruit.  The  chief  characteristics,  as  he  gives  them, 
are:  hook  strong  and  stiff;  depth  of  point  must 
exceed  width  of  hook  at  widest  part  (measuring 
inside  the  curve)  by  \  to  f  inch;  wire  not  too 
thin  nor  clumsily  thick;  point  long,  keen,  and  con- 
ical; gaff,  except  point,  neither  polished  nor  nickel- 
plated;  should  be  lashed  to  improvised  handle  cut 
on  the  bank  rather  than  screwed  to  a  ready-made 
handle ;  point  side  of  gaff  straight.  When  the  handle 
is  cut  on  the  fishing-ground  one  side  is  flattened 
at  one  end  and  the  spur  of  the  gaff  driven  into  it, 


282  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

the  gaff  then  being  firmly  bound  to  the  handle  with 
twine.  When  leaving  the  stream  the  twine  is  cut  and 
the  handle  thrown  away.  The  dimensions  of  an 
''able-bodied"  gaff  are  as  follows:  bottom  of  hook 
to  spur  (on  a  straight  line)  i  foot;  width  of  hook 
opposite  point  3  inches  (or  a  trifle  less) ;  width  of 
hook  at  widest  point  3^  inches;  depth  of  hook 
(straight  across  from  point  to  shank)  3T9¥  inches. 
All  measurements  are  on  the  inside  curves.  Such  a 
gaff  will  land  anything,  great  or  small.  Plain  gaffs 
without  handles  cost  less  than  half  a  dollar.  They 
are  also  made  with  a  screw-end  to  fit  the  "  Harrimac  " 
landing-net  handle.  The  gaffing  of  the  fish  is  con- 
sidered to  be  an  essential  part  of  the  killing  of  a 
salmon  (one  never  catches  a  salmon!),  and  a  plain 
gaff  is  therefore  the  only  weapon  which  the  "purists" 
will  allow  in  the  hands  of  the  gaffer.  But  nothing 
is  so  annoying,  to  use  the  very  mildest  of  terms,  as  to 
play  a  big  fish  sucessfully  and  bring  it  to  gaff,  only 
to  have  it  missed,  and  very  likely  lost,  by  an  awkward 
gaffer;  and  for  this  reason  many  a  good  salmon- 
angler,  who  has  repeatedly  suffered  this  catastrophe, 
has  taken  to  the  automatic  gaffs,  when  going  among 
untried  guides.  The  best  of  them  is  the  Marble 
($2.00),  a  deadly  weapon  even  in  the  hands  of  a 
duffer.  Order  one  not  nickeled.  Though  perhaps 
rather  unsportsmanlike,  one  must  remember  that 
the  angler  has  actually  done  his  part  in  bringing  the 
fish  within  reach  of  the  gaffer,  and  the  punishment 
certainly  does  "not  fit  the  crime"  when  he  loses 
it  through  no  fault  of  his  own.  The  "Marble"  should 
be  handled  carefully,  as  it  closes  easily. 

The  principles  of  casting  are  identical  with  those 


Fishing 


283 


of  manipulating  trout-rods.     The  line  is  thrown  back, 
though  not  so  far  as  to  allow  the  fly  to         c     . 
touch  the  water,  a  pause  is  made  while  the 
line   straightens   out  behind,   and  the  forward   cast 
completes     the    operation.      (See    Casting  the  Fly.) 
There  is,  however,  one  important 
difference:  with  the  trout-rod  the 
balance,  or  centre  of   motion,  lies 
within  the  hand  holding  the  rod, 
while  with  the  two-handed  salmon- 
rod  the  balance  lies  in  the  lower 
hand,  which  grasps  the  butt.     One 
must  consider  this  hand  the  pivot 
upon  which  the  rod  swings,  hold 
it  steady,  as  if  it  were  merely  a 
socket,  and  manage  the  rod  with 
the  upper  hand.     Above  all  things 
practise  with  each  hand  alternately 
held  above  and  below,  so  that  a 
cast  over  the  right  shoulder  will 
be  as  easy  as  one  over  the  left. 
Ambidexterity    is    as    convenient, 
nay, 
as  for  the  axeman  or  the  canoeist. 

The  underhand  switch-cast,  which  has  many 
variations  and  names,  is  made  by  switching  the  line, 
not  over  the  angler's  head,  but  off  to  one  side;  then, 
by  a  smart  forward  and  upward  movement,  the  fly 
is  flung  up  and  out,  following  the  motion  imparted 
by  the  curve  of  the  line.  Such  casts  are  resorted  to 
when  some  natural  object  interferes  with  a  proper 
overhead  cast.  At  the  end  of  a  cast  directly  into  the 
wind,  the  tip  is  brought  sharply  down  nearly  to  the 
water.  (See  Figure  63.) 


Fig.  62. — Top  of  Back- 
as    necessary  for  the  angler       Cast 


284 


The  Way  of  the  Woods 


A  salmon  "pool,"  unlike  that  deep  and  serene 
haunt  of  the  trout  at  the  foot  of  some  fall,  is  generally 
Fishing  nothing  more  than  a  stretch  of  clear  water 
the  Pool  from  3  to  10  feet  deep,  with  a  gravelly 
bottom  and  a  3-  or  4-mile  current;  in  other  words  a 

kind  of  quiet  rapid.  It  is 
fished  either  from  the  bank 
or  from  a  canoe  or  boat 
anchored  amidstream.  If 
from  the  bank,  the  angler, 
having  consulted  his  guide 
as  to  where  the  fish  usually 
lie,  takes  his  station  near  the 
upper  end  of  the  pool,  and 
casts  his  fly  across  the 
current.  The  rod  is  held 
quietly  in  a  nearly  horizontal 
position,  while  the  fly  is 
carried  down-stream  in  the 
segment  of  a  circle,  until 
the  line  is  nearly  at  right 
FIG.  63.— Finish  of  Wind-Cast  angles  with  the  rod,  which 

is  then    moved    so    that   it 

points  down-stream  at  an  angle  of  about  45  de- 
grees with  the  bank.  The  fly  is  carried  on  down 
until  it  passes  the  end  of  the  rod  a  few  de- 
grees, when  it  is  retrieved  for  another  cast,  which 
may  be  made  over  the  same  water,  or  with  some 
6  or  8  feet  more  line.  The  line  is  lengthened  grad- 
ually with  successive  casts  until  the  limit  of  the  ang- 
ler's casting  powers  is  reached  or  a  rise  rewards  his 
efforts.  If  unrewarded  he  moves  the  length  of  a 
cast  downstream  and  resumes  operations. 

From  a  canoe  the  water  is  covered  by  casts  towards 


Fishing  285 

each  side.  It  will  be  seen  that,  in  salmon- fishing, 
the  rod  is  more  quiescent  than  in  angling  for  other 
salmonidcz,  the  current  doing  most  of  the  From  a 
work.  If  the  line,  on  account  of  a  particu-  Canoe 

larly  strong  current,  bellies  badly,  so  that  it  runs 
ahead  of  the  fly,  one  must  cast  more  obliquely  down- 
stream; or  the  line  may  be  given  a  flip  up-stream 
just  as  the  fly  strikes  the  water,  by  switching  the  tip 
of  the  rod  in  that  direction. 

Should  the  fish  rise  but  refuse  to  take  the  fly  do  not 
cast  again  at  the  exact  spot,  but  some  distance 
beyond,  so  that  the  fly  shall  swing  round  and  over  it. 

Displaying  is  the  art  of  offering  or  showing  the 
fly  to  the  fish  over  as  large  a  radius  as  possible,  and 
in  such  a  manner  that  line  and  leader  are  Displaying 
invisible.  The  fly  itself  is  submerged,  the  Fly 
and  many  anglers  do  not  attempt  to  aid  the  current 
in  giving  it  a  natural  motion.  The  majority,  however, 
endeavour  to  do  this  by  vibrating  the  tip  up  and 
down  through  the  space  of  a  foot,  the  result  being 
that  the  wings  and  hackle  of  the  fly  alternately  close 
and  open  with  the  successive  jerks,  and,  so  it  is 
thought,  a  lifelike  motion  is  imparted. 

Salmon  are  much  more  deliberate  in  their  move- 
ments than  trout,  and,  while  the  latter  will  seize  a  fly 
and  spit  it  out  again  almost  in  an  instant, 
the  salmon  approaches  and  takes  it  in   a 
more  stately  manner,  and  is  apt  to  carry  it  down  with 
him  to  his  lair  before  investigating  its  precise  char- 
acter.    From  this  it  follows  that  the  angler  must  not 
strike  too  soon  when  he  sees  the  warning  boil  of  the 
water  near  his  fly;    in  fact  it  will  be  better  not  to 


286  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

strike  at  all,  and  many  fishermen  follow  this  precept 
exclusively,  asserting  that  the  fish  and  the  resistance 
of  the  heavy  line  will  do  the  hooking  quite  effectually, 
and  that  nothing  should  be  done  until  a  perceptible 
jerk  on  the  tip  signals  that  the  hook  has  gone  home. 
Even  then  some  do  not  strike  when  heavy  fish  are  in 
the  pool,  but  it  is  generally  a  good  plan  to  do  so,  in 
order  to  imbed  the  hook  more  firmly.  As  a  rule  keep 
the  hands  off  the  line,  as  a  sudden  strike  when  it  is 
straightened  out  may  part  the  leader. 

The  enthusiastic  trout  often  misses  the  fly  in  its 
zeal,  but  when  the  water  boils  in  a  salmon-pool  and 
Changing  the  fly  remains  untouched  you  may  be 
the  Fly  fairly  sure  that  there  is  something  wrong, 
and  (especially  if  this  occurs  more  than  once)  it  is 
probably  the  fly.  If  such  a  suspicion  arises  work 
the  fly  about  a  little,  letting  it  sink  and  then  pulling 
it  in.  If  this  has  no  effect  reel  in  and  change  the  fly 
to  a  smaller  size  of  the  same  pattern,  wait  five  or 
ten  minutes,  and  try  again  over  the  same  spot.  If  the 
exact  distance  is  to  be  insured  it  is  better  not  to 
reel  in,  but  to  pull  the  line  through  the  rings  and 
let  the  coils  lie  in  the  bottom  of  the  canoe.  When 
convinced  that  the  pattern  of  fly  is  not  wanted  by  the 
fish,  change  to  some  quite  different  variety.  In  a 
word,  experiment  until  success  is  attained.  In  all 
cases  wait  a  few  minutes  before  trying  the  same 
spot  again. 

For  a  few  moments  a  hooked  salmon  does  not 
seem  to  appreciate  his  position,  but  this  is  only  the 
calm  before  the  storm,  for  suddenly  the  line  begins 
to  go  and  the  reel  to  sing  with  a  crescendo  that  rises 


Fishing  287 

to  prestissimo  and  fortissimo  agitato.  This  is  one 
of  the  soul-stirring  moments  of  the  battle,  and  rivals 
the  excitement  of  landing  after  a  fifty-foot  Playing 
skee-jump  or  turning  a  sharp  corner  in  a  the  Fish 
racing-car  at  a  mile  a  minute.  One  wonders  whether 
the  fish  is  ever  going  to  stop,  and  visions  of  a  line  run 
out  and  snapped  off  the  reel  arise  like  ogres.  But  he 
usually  does  pause  before  such  a  catastrophe  occurs, 
and  soars  majestically  into  the  air  at  the  end  of  the 
rush,  generally  giving  the  angler  time  to  reel  in  a 
good  deal  of  line  before  dashing  off  for  another  rush 
and  leap.  The  battle  is  then  on  and  the  problem 
is  to  tire  out  the  fish  and  bring  him  to  gaff  before  he 
can  break  away,  either  by  sheer  strength  or  by 
entangling  the  line  in  some  natural  obstruction. 
The  rule  is  to  make  haste  slowly,  for  it  has  been 
calculated  that  no  good  fish  can  be  killed  safely  in 
less  than  a  minute  for  every  pound  of  its  weight. 
When  the  salmon  leaps  from  the  water  the  old  rule 
was  to  drop  the  tip  of  the  rod  in  order  to  reduce  the 
strain  on  the  tackle,  but  Mr.  Wells  has  proved  that 
this  is  a  fallacy,  since  such  relief  cannot  possibly 
be  communicated  to  the  other  end  of  the  long,  heavy 
line  in  the  very  short  space  of  time  occupied  by  the 
fish  in  leaping.  The  rule  is,  therefore,  to  keep  a 
taut  line  at  all  times.  If  the  fish  doubles  back,  belly- 
ing the  line,  reel  in  as  fast  as  possible.  In  a  word, 
never  allow  slack  line.  If  he  sulks  and  jigs,  i.  e.  tugs 
at  the  line  with  a  succession  of  short,  sharp  jerks, 
simply  wait  for  him  to  finish  this  disconcerting 
manoeuvre.  If  he  threatens  to  run  out  all  your 
line,  which  would  be  fatal,  follow  him  with  the  canoe 
or  on  foot,  as  the  case  may  be.  There  are  lurid  tales 
of  fishermen  chasing  down-stream  for  miles  after  a 


288  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

runaway  salmon  of  uncommon  weight  and  prowess, 
but  these  may  be  somewhat  exaggerated.  Experi- 
ence is  the  best  teacher,  and  when  you  have  played 
twenty  salmon,  and  lost  a  certain  percentage  of  them, 
you  will  know  more  about  the  art  than  I  could  impart 
in  twenty  chapters. 

When  your  fish  is  thoroughly  sick,  and  shows  his 
sides  from  time  to  time,  draw  him  gradually  up  to 

the  spot  where  the  motionless  gaffer  waits. 
Gaffing 

The  salmon  may  come  to  life  several  times 

at  sight  of  his  new  enemy,  but  at  last  the  gaff  is 
pushed  deftly  under  the  fish,  and,  with  a  quick 
upward  movement,  the  quarry  is  impaled  upon  it, 
dragged  up  on  the  shore  or  into  the  canoe,  and  knocked 
on  the  head  as  soon  as  may  be. 

H.  P.  Wells:  The  American  Salmon-Fisherman; 
B  k  Salmon  and  Trout,  in  The  American 

Sportsman's  Library;   Chas.  Hallock:  Sal- 
mon-fishing. 

FRESH-WATER  SALMON 

Hornaday  and  others  distinguish  two  chief  varie- 
ties of  salmon  living  in  fresh  water,  the  Ouananiche 
(pronounced  Wanna-neesh')  (Salmo  ouananiche)  and 
the  Sebago  Salmon  (Salmo  sebago)  of  Maine,  though 
scientists  are  as  yet  by  no  means  agreed  as  to  the 
difference  between  these  or  between  them  and  the 
Salmo  salar,  which  divides  its  existence  between  salt 
and  fresh  water.  It  may  be  quite  a  matter  of  en- 
vironment. Both  are  called  land-locked  salmon, 
though  only  the  Maine  fish  seems  entitled  to  the 
name,  as  the  Ouananiche  has  access  to  salt  water 
and  frequently  does  descend  to  it. 


Fishing  289 

THE  OUANANICHE 

Mr.  Hornaday  speaks  of  the  Ouananiche  as  a 
"fierce-fighting  fresh- water  understudy  of  the  At- 
lantic salmon.  .  .  .  When  first  taken  from  the 
water,  it  has  a  beautiful  peacock-blue  colour  which 
disappears  at  death,  changing  to  the  light-grey 
back  and  sides  and  silvery  belly  of  the  Salmon.  .  .  . 
The  Ouananiche  is  a  fish  which  loves  rapids  and 
rushing  water  as  a  mountain  sheep  loves  crags  and 
precipices.  Because  of  the  strenuous  life  it  leads, 
it  is  beyond  doubt  the  most  vigorous  and  athletic 
fish  that  inhabits  our  waters."  This  dictum  will  be 
generally  subscribed  to  by  most  fishermen.  Mr. 
Eugene  McCarthy,  in  his  Familiar  Fish,  thus  char- 
acterises the  Ouananiche : 


None  of  the  fresh- water  fish  can  equal  its  fighting  powers, 
and,  pound  for  pound,  it  will  outfight  even  the  salmon. 
Ouananiche  are  great  smashers  of  rods  and  tackle,  unless 
one  understands  how  to  play  them,  especially  when  they 
make  their  numerous  high  jumps  from  the  water.  It  is  not 
an  exaggeration  to  state  that  these  jumps  will  average  at  least 
five  to  six,  and  frequently  will  number  ten  to  twelve  feet. 
And  such  leaps  !  Two  or  three  feet  out  of  the  water,  often 
toward  the  fisherman,  then  a  rush  deep  down,  a  pause,  a 
succession  of  jerks  that  would  seem  to  tear  the  hook  loose, 
a  wild  rush  of  varying  distance,  and  a  run  back,  almost  to  the 
angler's  feet.  A  fish  weighing  three  and  one-half  or  four 
pounds  will  make  a  fight  lasting  ten  or  fifteen  minutes, 
often  longer;  and  that  means  hard  work  for  every  moment 
for  the  fisherman. 


The  chief  habitat  of  the  Ouananiche  is  Lake  St. 
John  and  its  tributaries,  in  the  Province  of  Quebec, 
and  the  Saguenay  River,  its  outlet  to  the  Gulf  of' 
19 


2go  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

St.  Lawrence ;  but  many  other  waters  of  that  region 
contain  it,  though  less  known. 

The  fish  probably  spawn  partly  in  the  lake  and 
partly  in  the  stream.  They  seem  to  be  mostly  in  the 
lake  in  spring,  descending  into  the  rapid  water  about 
June.  The  spawning  season  is  October.  In  the  lakes 
they  will  almost  never  take  the  fly.  Anatomically 
the  fish  differs  in  no  respect  from  a  small  salmon,  but 
the  colouring  is  more  brilliant.  It  feeds  day  by  day 
throughout  the  year,  and  has  a  slimmer  body  and 
more  powerful  fins.  The  average  weight  is  less  than 
three  pounds,  though  it  grows  to  three  times  that. 
The  expert  angler  of  the  Grande  Decharge  of  the 
Saguenay  takes  him  only  on  the  fly. 

A  heavy  trout-rod,  say  of  loj  feet  and  7  or  8  ounces 
will  fill  the  bill,  though  some  prefer  a  grilse-rod. 

The  line  will  be  size    E,  and  the  leader 
Tackle 

six  feet  long  and  of  light  salmon  gut  of  the 

best  quality.  The  usual  thing  is  to  use  two  flies, 
the  upper  one  a  yard  from  the  tail.  Sizes  6  and  4 
are  large  enough,  and  the  favourite  varieties  are 
Silver-Doctor,  Jock-Scott,  Popham,  and  in  fact  most 
of  the  best-known  salmon  patterns. 

In  the  Saguenay  the  fishing  is  generally  from  a 
canoe,  for  the  proper  management  of  which  in  the 
difficult  water  two  guides  (French  Canadians)  are 
necessary.  The  casting  is  mostly  not  from  the  canoe, 
but  from  different  points  of  vantage,  where  the  angler 
lands.  The  fish  are  found  in  the  rapids  and  especially 
in  the  foam-covered  eddies,  into  the  midst  of  which 
the  flies  are  launched.  When  your  fly  is  taken  strike 
smartly,  after  which,  if  the  fish  is  hooked,  "look 
out  for  squalls !"  He  will  plunge  down,  run  up,  leap 


Fishing  291 

wildly,  turn  and  rush  and  jig  like  an  electrified 
grilse;  in  fact  he  may  be  treated  like  one.  Keep  a 
taut  line  always.  Ouananiche  are  generally  netted 
like  trout. 

THE  SEBAGO  SALMON 

Those  who  have  fished  for  both  the  Ouananiche  and 
the  Maine  land-locked  salmon  are  generally  of  the 
opinion  that  the  former  is  the  gamier  fish,  for  the 
reason  that  it  inhabits  more  strenuous  waters.  There 
are,  of  course,  places  in  Maine  where,  either  in  the 
streams  or  fresh-run  into  the  lakes,  the  fish  are  as  hard 
fighters  as  their  Canadian  cousins.  They  are  heavier, 
weighing  from  a  pound  up  to  15  pounds,  the  average 
in  Sebago  Lake  being  over  8  pounds.  In  spring  it 
may  be  taken  with  the  fly,  like  its  Quebec  cousin, 
but  later  trolling  with  the  minnow,  phantom,  etc., 
must  be  resorted  to. 

The  Ouananiche  and  its  Canadian  Environment, 
by  E.  T.  D.  Chambers;  The  Leaping  Ouananiche 
and  How  to  Catch  It,  by  Eugene  McCarthy;  Biblio- 
The  Land  of  the  Winanishe,  in  the  volume  graphy 
on  Angling  in  the  Out-of-Door  Library  (Scribner's) ; 
Fly-fishing  for  Ouananiche,  by  Louis  Rhead,  in 
Outing  for  July,  1906.  It  is  a  regrettable  fact  that 
many  books  on  salmon-angling  contain  so  little  about 
the  fresh-water  salmon.  The  volume  on  Salmon 
and  Trout  in  the  American  Sportsman's  Library,  for 
example,  never  so  much  as  mentions  the  existence 
of  the  Ouananiche. 

BLACK-BASS  FISHING 

There   are   two   varieties   of   the   black-bass,    the 


292  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

small-mouthed  (Micropterus  dolomieu)  and  the  large- 
mouthed  (Micropterus  salmoides),  the  two  fish  be- 
ing very  similar  in  appearance,  though  the  large- 
mouthed  is  not  quite  so  slender  and  has  the  angle  of 
the  mouth  reaching  behind  the  eye.  Its  scales  are 
also  larger.  Of  the  two-  the  small-mouthed  has  the 
greater  reputation  as  a  game  fish,  though  Dr.  Hen- 
shall  thinks  this  due  to  the  fact  that  the  small-mouth 
is  oftener  found  in  cool,  clear  waters  than  his  cousin, 
and  that,  in  the  same  water,  there  is  no  difference 
in  their  game  qualities.  Both  fish  are  hard  fighters, 
strong  and  resourceful,  and  will  frequently  leap  from 
the  water  even  on  a  slack  line.  The  fact  that  the  trout 
almost  never  leaps  on  a  slack  line  has  led  bass-fisher- 
men to  claim  the  palm  of  gameness  for  their  favourite. 
This  claim  has  hardly  been  substantiated,  though 
one  may  say  that  the  black-bass  possesses  a  little 
more  of  the  bulldog  nature  than  the  more  beautiful 
and  aristocratic  trout.  The  usual  colour  of  the  bass 
is  a  fine  greenish  bronze,  though  this  may  be  dark 
or  light. 

The  small-mouthed  black-bass  inhabits  preferably 
clear  and  cool  streams,  as  well  as  lakes  and  ponds 
fed  by  them  or  by  springs.  Hibernating 
at  the  bottom  of  lakes  and  streams,  it 
emerges  in  early  spring  from  its  state  of  torpor  and 
seeks  its  spawning  bed  in  streams  having  sandy  or 
gravelly  bottoms  about  the  month  of  May,  the 
spawning  season  lasting  till  July,  different  fish 
spawning  at  different  times,  according  to  environ- 
ment. The  male  fish  works  out  a  depression  in  the 
soil,  in  which  the  female  deposits  her  eggs,  which  are 
then  covered  by  the  male  milt.  It  takes  but  two 


Fishing  293 

weeks,  or  even  less,  for  the  eggs  to  hatch,  during 
which  time  the  nest  is  guarded  by  both  parent  fish, 
unlike  the  trout,  which  neglects  its  nest  after  the  eggs 
have  been  fructified.  The  male  bass  even  watches 
over  the  hatched-out  fry  for  several  days  after  hatch- 
ing. The  fry  attain  a  length  of  about  an  inch  in  a 
month  and  grow  to  six  inches  by  autumn.  A  pound 
per  year  is  about  the  normal  rate  of  increase,  and 
five  pounds  is  a  very  large  weight  for  a  black-bass, 
though  fish  of  nine  and  ten  pounds  have  been  taken. 

FLY-FISHING 

The  remarks  upon  rods  for  fly-fishing  contained  in 
the  chapter  on  Trout  Fly-tackle  apply  also  to  bass- rods, 
except  that  a  rod  under  six  ounces  should  Tackle  for 
not  be  used,  the  average  bass  fly-rod  being  Fly-fishing 
an  ounce  or  so  heavier  than  that.  It  may  be  from 
9  to  ioi  feet  in  length.  Split  bamboo  is  best.  The 
butt  should  be  rather  more  stiffish  than  in  a  trout-rod. 
Lines  and  leaders  are  similar  to  those  used  for  trout, 
though  the  leader  need  not  be  over  six  feet  in  length, 
but  must  be  stout.  Bass-flies  are  usually  made  with 
very  large,  flaring  wings  and  in  brilliant  colours.  Dr. 
Henshall  thinks  most  of  the  stock  flies  too  large  and 
recommends  the  "largest  trout  flies,  tied  on  hooks 
Nos.  4  to  6."  Among  the  best  patterns  are  the  dif- 
ferent hackles,  the  Coachman,  Montreal,  Professor, 
Grizzly-King,  Jungle-Cock,  King-of-the- Waters,  etc. 
There  are  also  the  so-called  buck-tail  flies.  Very 
few  bass-flies  bear  any  resemblance  to  living  insects. 
The  bass  is  a  voracious  feeder,  resembling  in  his 
habits  the  gamey  brook-trout  of  northern  waters, 
and  he  evidently  takes  the  fly  not  for  some  particular 


294  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

insect  known  to  him,  but  just  for  some  kind  of  pos- 
sible food,  to  be  captured  first  and  rejected  if  un- 
desirable. 

Morning  and  evening  are  the  most  favourable 
times,  unless  the  day  is  overcast.  Fish  down-stream 
and  observe  the  general  rules  laid  down  under  trout- 
fishing.  The  flies  (two,  or  sometimes  three,  are 
generally  used  at  a  time)  are  kept  wriggling  when 
on  the  surface,  but  are  allowed  to  sink  a  foot  or  so 
from  time  to  time.  One  must  try  every  ruse,  as  the 
bass  is  as  fickle  as  the  trout,  and  the  flies  should  be 
often  changed  until  success  attends.  When  a  rise 
is  seen  or  a  tug  felt  strike  like  lightning,  though  not 
brutally,  as  the  fish  will,  except  in  still  water,  prob- 
ably have  hooked  himself,  and  it  is  chiefly  a  matter 
of  setting  the  barb  well  in.  Keep  a  taut  line,  and 
make  the  fish  earn  every  inch  he  pulls  out.  Netting 
the  bass  is  precisely  similar  to  the  same  operation 
applied  to  trout. 

OTHER  METHODS 

Dr.  Henshall  mentions  as  legitimate  methods, 
aside  from  fly-fishing,  for  bass,  casting  with  the 
live  minnow,  trolling,  and  still-fishing.  He  condemns 
trolling  with  a  hand-line  as  unsportsmanlike,  and 
also,  by  inference  and  failure  even  to  mention  them, 
all  many-hooked  contrivances,  such  as  phantoms  and 
minnow-gangs.  It  seems  somewhat  inconsistent, 
after  taking  this  high  and  proper  standpoint,  that 
he  should  advocate  the  torture  of  a  live  minnow  for 
the  sake  of  sport.  As  the  minnow  is  generally  hooked 
through  the  nerveless  lips,  the  biassed  angler  will 
bring  forth  the  old  argument  that  it  is  not  hurt.  Why 


Fishing  295 

not  go  a  step  further  and  aver  that  the  little  fish 
hugely  enjoys  being  jerked  through  air  and  water  until 
insensibility  befalls?  The  true  sportsman  has  no 
place  in  his  heart  for  mollycoddles,  but  the  practice 
of  such  cruelty  as  this  should  disgust  every  right- 
minded  being.  Let  the  reader  decide  for  himself. 

The  minnow  is  hooked  through  both  lips,  or,  when 
very  small,  under  the  dorsal  fin,  on  a  single  snelled 
hook,  size  i  to  2.  A  braided  silk  line,  size  Casting 
H,  is  best  and  no  leader  can  be  used,  since  with 

the  lure  must  be  pulled  up  close  to  the  tip  for  Minnow 
the  purpose  of  casting.  The  casting-rod,  which  has  been 
developed  during  the  past  few  years,  is  from  8  to  9  feet 
long  and  preferably  of  split  bamboo  (best  quality  up 
to  $30.00;  Orvis  casting-rod,  fine  quality,  $15.00). 
It  has  the  reel-seat  above  the  hand  and  weighs  from 
6  to  8  ounces.  A  still  shorter  variety,  originating  in 
the  West,  is  from  4^  to  6  feet  long.  The  reel  must  be 
a  multiplier  containing  fifty  or  sixty  yards  of  line  and 
as  light  as  possible.  Very  beautiful  multiplying  reels 
for  bait-fishing  have  been  made  in  this  country,  and 
particularly  in  the  State  of  Kentucky,  for  more  than 
half  a  century,  and  the  Kentucky  reels  still  maintain 
their  reputation.  The  best  of  them  (not  all  made  in 
Kentucky)  are  expensive — Meek's  No.  3,  $28.00,  No.  4, 
$30.00;  "Talbot  Special,"  $50.00  to  $60.00  (with 
jewelled  bearings);  ordinary  Talbot,  $20.00;  "In- 
trinsic," $15.00;  Milam's,  $20.00;  J.  vom  Hofe 
(60  yards) ,  $8.00.  All  these  reels  have  click  and  drag. 
The  Talbot  is  jewelled;  all  the  others  cost  about  $4.00 
more  for  jewelling.  Of  course  all  makers  turn  out 
cheaper  reels  that  are  of  good  quality,  but  a  multi- 
plying reel  should  be  a  fine  one  or  a  very  cheap  one, 


296  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

to  throw  aside  after  a  short  time.  The  best 
American  reels  last  for  many  years.  They 
should  be  kept  in  special  leather  cases  and 
carefully  cleaned  and  oiled.  Very 
little  oil  should  be  used,  and  that 
of  the  best  quality. 

Casting  with  the  short  bait-rod 
is  an  art  which  has  only  recently 
been  developed.  The  regular  over- 
head tournament  cast  for  distance 
can  be  employed  in  throwing  the 
minnow  only  very  gingerly,  since 
the  delicate  lips  or  skin  of  the 
fish  would  otherwise  be  torn  out. 
With  a  frog  or  other  tougher  bait  it 
is  generally  used.  It  is  called  cast- 
ing from  the  reel,  and  is  a  West- 
ern development,  like  the  short  rod 
invented  to  perfect  it.  Two  va- 
rieties, the  wrist-cast  and  body-cast, 
are  distinguished.  For  the  wrist- 
cast  the  rod  is  held  pointed  at 
|  ^  the  spot  where  the  lure  is  to  alight ; 
the  reel  (on  top)  is  turned  a  little  to 
the  left  and  the  thumb  rests  on  the 
crossbar.  The  lure  hangs  about  18 
inches  from  the  agate  tip.  Raise 
FIG.  64.—  thg  whole  arm  slowly  over  the 
wo-piece  shouider  bending  forearm  and 

Casting- Rod 

wrist    backwards    until     the    rod 

points  a  little  towards  the  ground.    Then  cast 
the  lure  forward  by  a  sharp,  snappy  jerk,  re-  IG' 
membering  how,  in  your  youth,  you  chucked  casting- 
a  green  apple  from  the  end  of  a  stick.     The     Rod 


Fishing  297 

body-cast  is  an  effort  to  add  to  the  strength  of  the 
arm,  wrist,  and  hand  that  of  the  whole  body,  the 
arm  being  held  more  extended 
and  the  whole  forward  move- 
ment made  more  round-arm, 
somewhat  as  a  cricket  bowler 
delivers  the  ball.  Added  im- 
petus  is  often  got  by  a  pre-  FlG.  66._Casting.Reel 
liminary  run.  Casting  with  a 
longer  rod  is  usually  done  more  from  one  side 
to  the  other  than  overhead,  in  order  to  avoid 
the  jerk  that  is  likely  to  throw  off  the  lure. 
Those  who  intend  to  devote  themselves  to  bait- 
casting  should  secure  Lou  S.  Darling's  Tournament 
Casting. 

When  the  minnow  strikes  the  water  it  is  allowed 
to  sink  half  way  to  the  bottom  and  is  then  slowly 
reeled  in.     When  it  is  seized  by  a  bass  do  not  strike, 
but  let  him  have  it  for  a  few  seconds  even 
if  he  should  start  to  run,  but  it  takes  some 
time  for  him  to  get  it  well  into  his  mouth. 
When  he   seems   to    have   it    firmly   (the 
angler  can  usually  tell  by  the  strong  and 
steady  pull,  felt  best  by  the  thumb  on  the 
reel-spool),  set  the  hook  by  a  smart  strike. 
The  battle  is  then  on  and  differs  from  that 
with  a  trout  only  when  the  bass  leaps  from 
the  water,    in    which    moment    taut    line 
FIG  6   —   s^ou^  especially  be  avoided,  though  it  is  a 
Casting-     grave  question  whether  in  so  very  short  a 
Spoon      time  any  movement  of  the  angler's  can  be 
communicated    to    the    other  end  of    the 
line  quickly  enough  to    have  any    effect,    one   way 
or  the  other.     With  a  very  long  line  certainly  not. 


298  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Casting  is  also  done  with  a  small  trolling-spoon 
with  one  hook,  or  two  single  hooks. 

Trolling  is  done  from  a  slowly-moving  canoe  or  boat 
along  the  edges  of  weeds,   rocky  ledges,  or 
wherever  bass  are    known  to  lie. 
™       A  minnow  or  single-hooked  troll- 
ing-spoon  may  be  used,  all  three-  or  more- 
hooked    contrivances     being    considered    as 
worthy  only  of  the  pot-fisherman,  who  wishes 
to  bring  in  a  good  string,  however  captured. 
A  short  trolling-rod  should  be  used. 

Still-fishing  from  bank  or  boat  is  done 
with  rod,  line,  leader,  and  dead  bait,  which 

may  be  worms,  helgramites,  craw- 
Still-fishing  *\J  .     .        ,   ,. 

&  fish  or  some  other  piscine  delicacy. 

This  should  not  be  allowed  to  lie  on  the 
bottom,  for  which  reason  a  float  is  usually 
employed.  The  most  efficacious  bait  is  a  live 
minnow;  let  the  hard-hearted  use  it  if  they 
like;  the  true  sportsman  should  certainly  not. 

Dr.  J.  A.  Henshall's  Book  of  the  Black- 
Bass,  More  About  the  Black-Bass,  and  Bass, 
Bibliog-  Pike,  Perch ,  and  Others ;  The  Basses, 
raphy  by  Harris,  Bean,  and  Rhead;  Fish- 

ing and  Shooting  Sketches,  by  ex-President 
Cleveland.  FlG-  68-~ 

Trolling 
Top  for 
MASCALONGE,  PIKE,  AND  PICKEREL      Steel  Rod 

Of  the  Esocidce,  or  pike  family,  those   likely  to  be 
encountered  by  the  dweller  in  the  northern  woods 


Fishing  299 

are  the  Mascalonge,  the  Pike,  the  Western  and  the 
Eastern  Pickerels.  All  its  members  are  distinguished 
by  long  bodies  and  -heads,  with  flattened,  elongated 
snouts  and  big  mouths  containing  many  sharp  teeth, 
in  the  jaws  and  even  on  the  tongue.  They  are  all 
voracious,  bloodthirsty  pirates,  which  live  mostly 
on  other  species  of  fish.  When  taken  in  good  water  all 
the  Esocida  are  good  eating,  especially  the  pickerel. 

THE  MASCALONGE 

This  great  fish  (Esox  nobilior),  the  largest  of  the 
EsocidcB,  grows  to  a  weight  of  eighty  or  more  pounds, 
but  one  is  seldom  seen  nowadays  that  will  go  over 
thirty  pounds,  and  the  majority  fall  far  short  of  that. 
Its  habitat  extends  from  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Great 
Lakes  waters  westward  through  northern  Wisconsin 
and  southward  to  the  upper  Ohio  and  Mississippi 
Rivers.  It  is  also  found  in  Chautauqua  Lake  in  New 
York  and  Conneaut  Lake  in  Pennsylvania.  It  has 
a  dark-grey-greenish  body,  the  shades  of  which  differ 
with  different  regions,  so  that  many  varieties  have 
been  named,  though  with  very  doubtful  authority. 
It  may  be  distinguished  readily  from  the  pike  by  the 
fact  that  the  spots  of  a  mascalonge  are  always  darker 
than  the  ground  colour,  whereas  those  of  a  pike  are 
lighter  and  bean-like  in  form.  There  are  many  ways 
of  spelling  and  pronouncing  the  English  name  of 
Esox  nobilior,  but  that  given  here  is  gradually  becoming 
the  standard. 

It  spawns  in  shallow  water  in  early  spring.  Its 
flesh  is  edible,  As  a  game  fish  it  ranks  high,  though 
it  relies  wholly  on  strength,  exhibiting  little  resource. 
The  proper  rod  is  a  bass-rod  of  8  or  9  ounces;  a 


3oo  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

multiplying  reel  with- plenty  of  No.  E  line  and  Nos. 
3  or  4  hooks  on  gimp  snells  and  swivel  to  connect  hook 
and  line  complete  the  outfit.  A  minnow,  either  alive 
or  dead,  or  a  frog,  may  be  the  bait,  though  most 
fishermen  prefer  a  No.  4  trolling-spoon,  which,  how- 
ever, should  have  but  a  single  hook.  The  boat  is 
rowed  slowly  along  the  edges  of 'the  pads  and  weeds, 
the  lure  is  cast  and  reeled  in  again  slowly.  As  in 
other  fishing,  open  water  should  be  gained  as  soon 
as  a  fish  is  hooked,  in  order  to  afford- it  less  opportunity 
to  foul  itself  and  the  hook.  Large  mascalonge  are 
usually  gaffed,  though  many  shoot  them  through  the 
head  with  a  .22  rifle.  If  gaffed  the  fish  should  be 
knocked  on  the  head  as  soon  as  pulled  into  the  boat, 
or  sooner  if  an  opportunity  occurs.  When  a  fish 
strikes  the  spoon  in  trolling  the  boatman  should  turn 
the  boat  at  once,  so  that  the  angler  can  reel  in  facing 
the  fish.  In  still  water  still-fishing  for  mascalonge 
is  common,  the  bait  being  a  half-pound  fish,  usually 
a  sucker.  When  a  strike  comes  give  the  fish  time 
enough  to  swallow  the  bait.  If  you  succeed  in  hook- 
ing a  ten-pound  mascalonge  on  heavy  bass-tackle  you 
are  not  likely  to  forget  the  ensuing  battle  very  soon. 
Dr.  Henshall  speaks  of  taking  a  4o-pounder  on  a 
nine-ounce  rod!  For  trolling  the  steel  rod  is  not  bad. 

THE  PIKE 

The  Pike  (Esox  lucius)  is  the  only  member  of  his 
family  which  inhabits  the  waters  of  Europe.  With 
us  he  is  often  confounded  with  the  pickerel,  but  he 
can  be  readily  distinguished  at  least  from  the  East- 
ern pickerel  by  his  light-coloured,  bean-shaped  spots, 
whereas  the  pickerel  is  marked  as  with  a  net  of 


Fishing  301 

darker  hue  than  the  ground  colour,  and  has  a  much 
lighter  belly.  The  pike  is  a  northern  fish,  being 
found  in  the  upper  Mississippi,  the  Great  Lakes, 
and  Lake  Champlain  and  the  vicinity  of  these  waters, 
and  thence  northwards  to  Alaska.  Occasionally  it 
occurs  further  south.  In  some  regions  it  is  found 
together  with  the  mascalonge.  Fifteen  pounds 
weight  is  the  usual  limit,  though  it  has  been  caught 
as  heavy  as  twenty-five  pounds,  and  four  feet  long. 
The  pike  is  fished  for  with  the  same  tackle,  though 
it  may  be  somewhat  lighter,  as  the  mascalonge  and  in 
much  the  same  manner.  The  "Henshall"  rod  (made 
by  Orvis,  Manchester,  Vt.)  is  as  good  for  pike  as  for 
bass,  and  with  it  should  go  braided  silk  line,  size  F, 
and  No.  2  or  3  hooks.  Trolling  is  the  usual  method, 
but  casting  the  dead  minnow  or  spoon  with  a  rod 
is  much  finer.  It  is  not  generally  known  that  both 
pike  and  pickerel  will  afford  good  fly-fishing,  large- 
sized,  bright  flies  being  used. 

THE  PICKEREL 

In  England  the  pickerel  is  a  small-sized  pike,  but 
with  us  quite  a  different  fish.  There  are  three  varieties, 
the  Eastern,  or  reticulated  (Esox  reticulatus) ,  the 
Western  (Esox  vermiculatus)  and  the  Banded  (Esox 
americanus) . 

Of  these  the  Western  variety,  found  west  of  the 
Alleghanies,  and  the  Banded,  found  only  east  of  those 
mountains,  never  grow  to  a  greater  length  than  one 
foot.  The  Eastern  pickerel  attains  a  length  of  two 
feet  and  a  weight  of  eight  pounds,  though  the  average 
will  hardly  be  more  than  two  pounds,  or  even  less. 
It  is  recognised  by  its  net-like  markings.  It  spawns 


302  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

in  spring.  When  caught  in  cool,  clear  water  its  flesh 
is  delicious,  especially  in  cold  weather.  The  most 
satisfactory  way  to  fish  for  it  is  with  a  light  bass- 
rod  and  tackle,  with  Nos.  i  and  2  hooks  on  gimp 
snells.  The  old-fashioned  long  cane  rod,  bought  in 
the  country  store,  will  do  on  occasion,  especially 
in  very  weedy  water,  where  playing  the  fish  is  out  of 
the  question.  The  bait  may  be  a  small  spoon,  a  piece 
of  pork,  the  throat  of  a  perch,  or  the  hind-legs  of  a 
frog,  skinned.  This  is  " skittered"  along  or  under  the 
surface  until  seized  by  the  pickerel,  when  a  pause  is 
made  to  enable  the  fish  to  swallow  it.  Still-fishing 
with  a  minnow  or  frog  is  another  method,  though  not 
so  interesting.  Trolling  is  also  practised,  and,  finally, 
the  pickerel  will  often  take  a  sunken  fly  when  the 
water  is  not  deep,  especially  the  Ibis,  Montreal,  and 
other  high-coloured  ones.  Fishing  through  the  ice 
with  "tip-ups"  is  interesting,  but  hardly  to  be 
classed  as  scientific  angling.  The  tip-ups  can  now 
be  had  of  dealers  very  cheaply,  so  that  it  hardly  pays 
to  manufacture  them  at  home.  Minnows  are  used 
as  bait,  and  unfortunately  they  are  most  attractive 
when  alive. 

Bass,  Pike,  Perch,  and  Others,  by  James  A  Henshall ; 
Pike  and  Perch,  by  Wm.  Senior;  Bait  Angling  for 
Biblio-  Common  Fishes,  by  Louis  Rhead;  Fishing 
graphy  and  Shooting  Sketches,  by  ex-President 
Cleveland. 


CHAPTER  XIII 

SPORTING    FIREARMS 

THE  huntsman  of  the  north  woods  is  concerned 
primarily  with  the  rifle,  and  in  a  much  less  degree 
with  the  shotgun.  The  reason  for  this  is  because 
grouse,  quail,  wild-fowl,  and  other  varieties  of  game 
hunted  with  the  shotgun  are  more  numerous  and 
more  easily  bagged  in  open  districts  nearer  to  civili- 
sation than  in  the  thick  jungles  of  the  northern 
wilderness,  where  working  with  dogs  is  far  more 
difficult  and  in  many  districts  impossible. 

THE  RIFLE 

The  instant  a  cartridge  is  exploded  in  the  barrel 
of  a  rifle  three  forces  begin  to  act  upon  the  bullet,  one 
positive,  the  propellent  expansion  of  the  Theory  of 
gases,  and  two  negative,  gravitation  and  Shooting 
the  resistance  of  the  air.  (To  be  accurate,  gravita- 
tion begins  to  act  only  when  the  bullet  leaves  the 
barrel.)  In  consequence  the  bullet,  if  the  rifle  is 
held  level,  begins  to  drop  from  the  instant  it  leaves 
the  barrel  and,  according  to  the  law  of  gravitation, 
falls  constantly  in  an  ever-increasing  ratio.  The 
falling  of  the  bullet  is  increased  by  the  resistance  of 
the  air,  this  resistance  varying  with  the  size  and  shape 
of  the  projectile.  It  follows  that  there  is  no  such 
thing  as  a  rifle  "shooting  level"  for  even  a  yard, 
contrary  to  the  belief  of  the  average  woodsman. 

303 


304  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

But  the  modern  high-power  rifle  has  such  a  flat 
trajectory  that  the  fall  of  the  bullet  may  almost  be 
ignored  at  200  yards,  within  which  distance  nine 
tenths  of  all  big  game  are  shot  in  the  north  woods. 
By  trajectory  is  meant  the  curve  described  by  the 
bullet  from  the  moment  it  leaves  the  barrel  until 
it  strikes  an  object  on  the  same  level  with  the  rifle. 
The  flattest  trajectory  is  the  curve  which  is  nearest 
to  a  straight  line.  Flatness  depends  upon  the  force 
with  which  the  projectile  is  propelled.  Thus  if  the 
pitcher  tosses  the  ball  gently  to  first  base  the  curve 
of  the  ball  through  the  air  will  be  much  greater  than 
if  he  threw  it  with  all  his  might.  Flatness  of 
trajectory  is  also  aided  by  shaping  the  bullet  so  that 
it  offers  least  resistance  to  the  air,  for  which  reason 
modern  rifle  bullets  are  made  long  and  pointed. 
Air-resistance  is  the  same,  whether  the  air  is  pro- 
pelled against  an  object  in  the  form  of  wind,  or  whether 
the  object  is  impelled  against  the  air.  When  one 
considers  the  tremendous  force  of  the  wind  its 
deterrent  effect  on  a  bullet  can  be  readily  understood, 
as  well  as  that  the  result  is,  that  the  bullet  flies 
slower  and  slower.  To  the  resistance  of  the  wind  are 
due  all  irregularities  in  the  flight  of  the  projectile, 
which,  if  fired  in  a  vacuum,  would  be  perfectly  steady, 
acted  upon  only  by  gravitation,  The  same  would 
be  the  case  in  the  air,  provided,  first,  that  the  air 
were  perfectly  still,  and,  secondly,  that  the  bullet 
were  absolutely  symmetrical.  As  this  last  is  never 
quite  the  case,  even  with  the  most  carefully  made 
ammunition,  there  results  a  certain  amount  of 
"drift,"  or  swerve  of  the  projectile  from  its  course. 
The  cause  of  this  is  the  placing  of  the  centre  of  grav- 
ity of  the  bullet  not  quite  in  the  centre  of  its  form, 


Sporting  Firearms  305 

so  that  the  resistance  of  the  air  on  one  side  is  slightly 
greater  than  on  the  other,  causing  the  bullet  to  swerve 
up  or  down,  or  to  the  right  or  left,  as  the  case  may 
be.  A  familiar  example  of  the  swerve  of  a  round  object 
by  twisting  and  thus  rendering  the  air's  resistance 
unequal  is  the  "curve  pitching"  of  the  American 
baseball  player ;  and,  though  an  elongated  projectile 
is  less  prone  to  swerve  than  a  spherical  one,  the 
former  is  nevertheless  by  no  means  immune,  though 
the  tendency  need  not  worry  the  north  woods  hunter, 
who  does  not  commonly  shoot  his  game  at  very  long 
distances.  Another  influence  on  the  flight  of  the 
bullet  is  a  cross  wind,  which,  if  very  strong,  must  be 
allowed  for,  but  this  again  bothers  the  hunter  far 
less  than  the  military  marksman. 

In  the  days  of  spherical  bullets  imperfect  fit  of  the 
bullet  in  the  barrel  often  led  to  unequal  friction  and 
"  gas-cutting"  and  hence  irregular  flight.  To  obviate 
this  the  inside  of  a  rifle  barrel  is  provided  with  spiral 
grooves  into  which  the  bullet  fits,  imparting  to  it  a 
rotary  motion,  and  always  in  the  same  direction, 
"on  an  axis  parallel  to  the  axis  of  the  barrel  and 
tangential  to  the  trajectory." 

Elongated  projectiles  are  subject  to  spiral  drift, 
the  result  of  badly  placed  centre  of  gravity  or  too 
slow  rotation,  long  bullets  requiring  more  rotation  than 
shorter  ones.  "Key-holing,"  or  bullets  striking  an 
object  flat  side  on,  is  one  of  the  consequences  of  this, 
the  twist  of  the  grooves  being  in  this  case  insufficient. 
Every  manufacturer  finds  out  for  himself  the  twist 
best  adapted  to  a  particular  projectile.  The  rifle 
grooves,  which  are  from  y^Vo  to  TITO'S  °f  an  inch 
deep,  are  made  in  several  forms,  all  of  which  seem 
to  be  satisfactory. 


306  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

When  a  cartridge  explodes  in  the  chamber  a 
powerful  expanding  gas  is  generated  which  exerts 
R  ..  its  force  in  every  direction.  The  bullet, 

being  lightly  seated  in  the  cartridge,  feels 
and  yields  to  this  force  first,  and  the  other  parts  im- 
mediately afterwards  as  a  reaction,  which  occasions 
the  recoil  or  "kick."  This  recoil  is  strong  in  pro- 
portion to  the  powder  charge  and  the  weight  of 
the  rifle.  The  lighter  the  gun,  the  harder  the 
kick,  which  is  not  only  exerted  in  a  backward  but 
T  also  in  an  upward  direction,  causing  the 

muzzle  to  jump,  with  the  result  that  one 
is  apt  to  shoot  high,  especially  with  a  short  barrel, 
as  in  a  revolver.  A  very  thin  barrel  will  "flip  "  or  be 
p..  depressed,  shooting  low.  The  barrel,  in 

fact,  actually  bends  slightly.  It  follows 
from  all  this  that  the  most  accurate  rifles,  and 
those  recoiling  least,  are  generally  the  heavier 
ones,  the  most  accurate  of  all,  the  so-called 
"schuetzen"  rifles,  being  too  heavy  for  use  in  the 
field.  Recoil  is  neutralised  to  some  extent  by  a 
rubber  recoil-pad  on  the  butt,  and  by  holding  the 
rifle  neither  too  tightly  nor  too  loosely,  so  that  the 
shoulder  shall  move  elastically. 

The  modern  maker  seeks  to  turn  out  an  arm  that 
will  shoot  a  powerful  charge  with  great  velocity  and 
Th  M  d  a  ^at  traJectory>  tne  mechanism  of  which 
Sporting  shall  be  safe  and  simple.  All  the  first- 
Rifle  class  American  manufacturers,  like  the 

Winchesters,  Savage,  Stevens,  Remington,  Marlin, 
etc.,  turn  out  perfect  work,  rifles  that  shoot  with 
great  accuracy  and  power.  It  only  remains  for 
the  hunter  to  choose  among  the  various  calibres 


Sporting  Firearms  307 

and    styles  the   weapon   most    suited   to    the   task 
in  hand. 

The  choice  must  be  made  of  a  variety  of  features, 
as  between  a  large  and  small  calibre,  repeater  and 
single-shot,  pump-action  and  bolt,  open  and  peep 
sights,  one-piece  and  " take-down,"  heavy  and  light, 
shotgun  and  rifle  butt,  etc. 

The  first  question  to  be  decided  is  that  of  calibre, 
or  the  size  of  the  bullet  in  diameter,  since  the  other 

dimensions  are  fixed  by  the  ammunition-          ~  vu 
J  Calibre 

makers  and  the  novice  need  not  bother 
himself  about  them,  except  as  affecting  the  weight  of 
the  bullet.  This  brings  us  to  the  question  of  cart- 
ridges in  general,  which  are  named  for  the  calibre, 
the  weight  of  the  powder  charge,  and  the  weight  of 
the  bullet.  Thus  the  .45-70-405  cartridge  is  one  that 
is  45/100  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  is  loaded  with  70 
grains  of  black  powder,  and  has  a  bullet  weighing 
405  grains.  But  one  important  explanation  must 
be  made:  since  the  perfection  of  smokeless  powder 
the  sportsman  should  use  no  other,  and  the  above 
cartridge  is  nearly  always  charged,  not  with  black, 
but  the  equivalent  of  70  grains  or  more  of  black 
powder  in  smokeless.  As  the  makers  always  desig- 
nate their  cartridges  as  if  charged  with  black  powder, 
it  is  impossible  to  tell  how  much  nitro  (smokeless) 
powder  is  used  in  a  given  cartridge.  The  novice 
need  not  bother  about  that  if  he  buys  only  ammuni- 
tion made  by  the  best  firms.  Later,  in  case  he  becomes 
bitten  with  the  idea  that  he  can  build  a  cartridge 
of  his  own  that  will  outshoot  all  others,  he  can  send 
for  a  set  of  loading  tools  from  the  Ideal  Manufactur- 
ing Company  (of  New  Haven),  buy  his  powder  and 


308  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

lead  extra,  and  go  ahead.  If  he  is  exceptionally 
clever  at  such  things  he  will  be  amused,  perhaps 
successful;  if  not  he  may  blow  a  finger  or  two  off. 
The  modern  expanding,  smokeless-powder  sporting 
cartridge  has  a  cupro-nickel  ''mantle"  round  the 
bullet  except  the  soft  lead  end,  or  nose,  which  is 
left  exposed.  Smokeless  powder  of  the  slow-burning 
kind  is  used,  and  this  is  of  two  varieties,  high  and 
low  power,  the  former  being  designed  for  modern 
nickel-steel  barrels,  the  latter  for  soft  steel  rifles. 
Smokeless  powder  must  be  confined  in  order  to 
explode,  but  must  not  be  packed  closely  for  fear 
of  bursting  the  gun.  Shake  a  smokeless  cartridge  and 
you  will  hear  the  powder  shift  inside.  High-power 
cartridges  are  often  used  with  old-style  rifles,  but 
the  dealers  do  not  recommend  this,  and  the  bullets 
for  these  cartridges  are  generally  somewhat  lighter 
than  the  low-power,  for  which  reason  the  low-power 
loads  are  perhaps  better  for  big  game  hunting  at  short 
distances. 

A  rifle  should  be  chosen  either  for  big  game  or  for 
small,  the  latter  class  including  such  animals  as  birds 
and  foxes,  'coons,  woodchucks,  turkeys,  grouse, 
etc.  For  these  last  the  little  .22-calibre  rifles  are 
quite  sufficient,  unless  the  range  is  to  be  commonly 
over  150  yards,  in  which  case  a  .25-calibre  Stevens 
may  be  preferred.  Those  who  like  a  medium  calibre, 
like  the  .30  or  .303,  for  big  game,  may  use  this  with  a 
so-called  miniature  cartridge,  having  a  reduced  load 
Small  Game an(^  a  steel-patched  (non-mushrooming) 
Rifles  bullet.  I  may  say,  in  regard  to  the  .22 

calibre,  that  I  have  seen  foxes  killed  instantly  with  a 
single   .22-long  bullet  and  large  dogs  with  one  .22- 


Sporting  Firearms  309 

long-rifle.  The  accuracy  of  the  .2 2 -long-rifle  cart- 
ridge (using  smokeless  powder)  is  wonderful,  and 
most  of  the  rifles  of  this  calibre  on  the  market  are 
very  good.  It  is  enough  to  say  in  their  praise  that 
when  the  great  sporting  weekly,  the  London  Field, 
wishes  to  test  a  new  .22-calibre  cartridge,  a  Stevens 
rifle  is  chosen  for  the  purpose,  rather  than  one  of 
British  make.  Among  the  small  rifles  that  I  have 
personally  used  the  most  satisfactory  were  the 
Stevens  No.  80  repeater  and  the  Winchester  repeater 
of  1890,  both  of  .22  calibre.  The  latter  has  the 
advantage  of  simple  and  durable  construction  (I 
have  one  that  has  shot  well  for  five  years  and  is  yet 
good),  but  is  chambered  for  only  one  length  of 
bullet,  while  the  Stevens  uses  all  three  of  the  standard 
lengths  at  will  by  the  adjusting  of  a  lever.  For  game 
the  two  longer  lengths  mentioned  above  should  be 
chosen  rather  than  the  .22-short.  Black  powder  is 
particularly  filthy  in  small  calibres,  and  should  never 
be  used.  The  Winchester  and  Stevens  single-shot 
.22  rifles  are  very  excellent,  but  for  game  a  repeater 
is  preferable.  A  "sporting"  rear  sight  is  best  if  the 
.2 2 -long-rifle  cartridge  is  used.  Peep-sights  are  good 
in  a  good  light,  but  hard  to  use  at  dusk. 

In  choosing  a  rifle  for  game  larger  than  a  fox  we 
are  confronted  with  many  important  considerations, 
the  chief  of  which  is  the  question :  large  Big  Game 
or  small  calibre — under  the  latter  head  Rifles 

coming  all  rifles  having  a  smaller  calibre  than  .35. 
Under  the  headings  Moose-Hunting  and  Deer-Hunt- 
ing I  have  indicated  my  own  preferences,  which  are 
for  large  calibres,  though  deer  may  be  safely  hunted 
with  a  smaller  calibre  than  moose  or  grizzly  bear. 


310  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

To  put  it  shortly,  the  advocates  of  the  small  calibre 
for  even  the  biggest  game  claim  that  this  kind  of 
rifles  shoot  flatter  and  with  greater  velocity,  that  on 
this  account  their  penetration  is  greater,  and  that, 
with  the  soft-nose,  expanding  bullet  (or  some  patent 
like  the  "Hoxie"),  fully  as  terrible  a  wound  is  made. 
In  answer  it  may  be  said  that  there  are  large-calibre 
rifles  (for  example  the  Winchester  .35  and  .405) 
which  have  a  very  flat  trajectory;  that  this  is  also 
true  of  velocity,  and  that  a  relatively  small  bullet 
with  soft  nose,  driven  at  a  very  high  velocity,  is  all 
too  apt  to  be  shattered  before  it  can  penetrate  far 
enough.  Several  instances  of  this  kind  have  occurred 
under  my  own  eyes  while  hunting  moose.  But  the 
greatest  objection  to  a  bullet  lighter  than  250  grains 
weight  is  that  its  shocking  power  is  too  slight.  What 
is  wanted  is  not  only  a  bullet  that  will  kill  if  placed 
in  a  vital  spot  (any  bullet  will  do  that),  but  one  that 
will  knock  down  and  disable  even  when  placed  in  a 
part  of  the  animal  that  is  not  vital.  In  the  latter  case, 
with  a  small  calibre,  the  animal,  especially  a  moose, 
will  be  very  apt  to  escape,  while,  with  a  big  calibre, 
the  animal  will  be  stopped  wholly,  or  at  least  stunned 
long  enough  to  get  in  another  shot  or  two.  Too  many 
moose  have  been  hit  with  .30  rifles  and  escaped, 
perhaps  to  die  miserably  later,  for  most  of  us  to 
advocate  a  light  bullet.  Both  penetration  and  weight 
of  bullet  are  necessary.  For  sheep,  goats,  and  animals 
of  that  size  the  Savage  .303  and  the  Springfield  (1903) 
and  .30  Winchester  are  about  right. 

Modern  rifle  barrels  are  made  of  nickel-steel  and 
especially  thick  at  the  breech,  where  nitro  powder 
exerts  the  greatest  pressure.  On  this  account  barrels 


Sporting  Firearms  311 

are  usually  made  tapered  towards  the  muzzle,  which 
saves  weight  but  gives  a  somewhat  less  stable  balance 
than,  say,  the  '94  Winchester  model.  The  Barrels 
front  sight,  too,  must  be  much  higher  and 
therefore  more  liable  to  injury.  The  latest  barrels  are 
all  short.  Round  barrels  .are  to  be  preferred  to 
octagon. 

Ten  pounds  was  not  much  for  the  average  old- 
fashioned  rifle  to  weigh,  but  to-day  8 \  pounds  is 
heavy  enough  for  the  largest  calibre,  w  .  h 
and  even  that  is  a  big  load  to  carry  far 
when  still-hunting  in  a  rough  country.  To  obviate 
this  the  makers  have  put  on  the  market  the  so-called 
light-weight  rifles.  The  '86  Winchester  .45-. 70,  for 
example,  weighs,  with  26-inch  octagon  barrel,  8f 
pounds,  while  the  new  " extra  light-weight,"  with 
2 2 -inch  round  nickel-steel  barrel,  weighs  but  7j 
pounds.  The  regular  Savage  .303,  with  26-inch 
octagon  barrel,  weighs  8  pounds,  while  the  "feather- 
weight" of  the  same  calibre,  with  2o-inch  round 
nickel-steel  barrel,  weighs  but  6  pounds.  Of  course 
this  saving  of  weight  has  its  disadvantages,  such  as 
increased  recoil  and  "flip."  Carbines  are  old-style 
rifles  with  cut-down  barrels. 

It  is  seldom  one  sees  nowadays  a  single-shot  rifle 
in  the  hands  of  a  big  game  hunter,   for,   although 

that   kind   is   said   to   balance   and   shoot     ~ 

Repeaters 
better,   the   advantage   of   having   several 

extra  shots  at  instantaneous  command  is  too  great 
to  forego.  The  question  of  the  number  of  shots  at 
command  is  not  so  vital.  The  older  models  have  nine 
or  more  in  the  magazine.  The  model  '95  Winchester 


3 1 2  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

holds  only  four,  which,  with  a  cartridge  in  the  barrel, 
gives  the  hunter  five  shots,  all  he  should  reasonably 
desire.  The  Savage  .303  holds  five  in  the  magazine. 
The  older  models  are  generally  made  with  full  or 
half  magazines,  the  latter  carrying  fewer  cartridges 
and  being  a  trifle  lighter.  One  objection  to  the  older 
Winchester  and  the  Marlin  magazines,  which  are  in 
the  form  of  tubes  running  under  the  barrel,  is  that 
with  every  withdrawal  of  a  cartridge  the  balance 
is  changed;  this  might  be  serious  for  target-shooting, 
but  for  game  it  is  not,  though  the  new  systems  of 
the  Winchester  (1895)  and  the  Savage,  the  "box" 
magazines,  do  give  a  practically  unvarying  balance. 
Both  the  tube  and  box  magazines  are  operated  on 
the  "pump"  or  lever  system,  which  is  unfortunately 
very  noisy,  the  box-magazine  being  the  better  in 
this  respect.  The  "bolt"  action  system  of  feeding 
the  barrel  from  the  magazine  is  characteristic  of 
foreign  rifles,  a  few  of  which,  notably  the  Mauser  and 
Mannlicher,  are  used  in  this  country,  They  are  far 
more  expensive  than  American  rifles,  and  do  not  seem 
to  me  to  possess  sufficient  compensating  advantages. 
Automatic  repeating  rifles,  which  fire  a  number 
of  shots  with  no  other  trouble  on  the  part  of  the 
hunter  than  pressing  the  trigger  each  time,  have 
now  been  placed  on  the  market  by  several  good  firms, 
the  most  noted  being  the  Winchester  and  the  Reming- 
ton .35  caliber.  I  share  with  most  old  hunters  a 
prejudice  against  these  murderous  weapons,  though 
it  must  be  admitted  that  the  abuse  of  them  lies 
for  the  most  part  with  the  user  rather  than  with  the 
rifle  itself,  and  one  may  as  well  give  way  with  good 
grace  before  the  inevitable  advance  of  mechanical 
science. 


Sporting  Firearms  313 

It  is  curious  that  nearly  every  writer  on  sporting 
rifles  has  a  deal  of  fault  to  find  with  his  sights,  and  upon 
no  subject  is  there  more  disagreement 
than  this.  Generally  speaking  there  are 
two  kinds  of  sights,  open  and  "peep."  The  latter 
have  the  great  drawback  that  they  are  hard  to  use 
in  a  poor  light,  besides  being  harder  to  align  quickly, 
though  for  target-shooting  they  are  undoubtedly 
best.  Many  good  riflemen  use  them  in  the  field,  but 
most  probably  prefer  open  sights.  The  best  open 
front  sight  is  furnished  with  an  ivory  bead.  This 
can  be  blackened  in  some  temporary  way  (smoking 
with  match)  when  shooting  over  snow.  Of  rear  open 
sights  there  are  many.  I  prefer  the  old  "buckhorn," 
though  many  object  that  it  obscures  part  of  the 
vision.  In  any  case  never  choose  a  complicated 
sight,  that  takes  time  and  care  to  adjust,  for  sporting 
purposes.  Simplicity  is  the  chief  and  cardinal  virtue 
here.  Those  who  prefer  peep  sights  should  secure  the 
catalogues  of  the  Lyman,  Marble,  and  Savage  compan- 
ies, especially  the  first-named.  In  case  a  Winchester 
1895  model  rifle  is  used,  the  Marble  flexible  peep 
sight  is  the  best. 

The  front  sight  is  very  liable  to  injury,  especially 
if  it  has  an  ivory  bead,  and  should  never  be  leaned 
against  rocks  or  laid  down  on  them.  It  seems  odd 
that  no  front-sight  protector  for  sporting  rifles  has  ever 
been  placed  on  the  market. 

In  regard  to  rifle  telescopes,  adjusted  above  the 
barrel,  it  is  possible  that  a  hunter  in  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, where  very  long  shots  are  sometimes  necessary, 
would  find  them  desirable,  but  the  north  woods  sports- 
man will  not.  The  danger  is  that  one  will  become 
SO  used  to  them  that  good  shooting  without  them 


314  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

is  impossible.  Personally  I  would  not  use  one  for 
deer  or  moose  for  "a  farm  down  East."  At  present 
the  best  telescopes  are  turned  out  by  the  Stevens 
Arms  and  Tool  Company.  The  Brayton  telescope 
sights  are  well  thought  of  by  some. 

The  stock,  and  in  fact  the  whole  rifle,  should  be 
as  simple  as  can  be  bought,  and  totally  without  sun- 
Stock  and  reflecting  metal-work.  Such  parts  should 
Butt  be  blued  or  browned.  Butts  are  made 

half-moonshaped,  the  regular  rifle-butt,  or  with  the 
slightly  concave  shotgun-butt.  The  latter  is  pre- 
ferable for  hunting,  though  it  is  a  matter  of  taste. 

A  sling  for  the  rifle  is  an  excellent  thing  when  still- 
hunting,  but  the  metal  hooks  should  be  bound  with 
G       ..        leather   or  yarn,    so   that   they   will    not 
rattle. 

It  goes  without  saying  that  one  should  spare  no 
pains  to  become  familiar  with  the  shooting  powers 

...  ,.  of  a  new  rifle.  Practice,  and  lots  of  it, 
Adjusting  .  11  1 

is  necessary  at  all  ranges  and  at  all  ele- 
vations. The  first  thing  to  learn  is  not  to  flinch  when 
pulling  the  trigger,  a  difficult  task  for  many,  but 
absolutely  essential.  A  high-power  rifle  has  consider- 
able recoil,  but  the  kick  will  not  hurt  you  in  the 
slightest,  especially  if  you  use  a  shotgun-butt  covered 
with  a  rubber  recoil-pad,  and,  if  you  are  very  nervous, 
supplied  with  a  Rowley  cheek-pad.  Most  hunters 
set  their  sights  by  experiment  so  that,  by  drawing 
a  moderately  fine  bead,  the  rifle  will  shoot  as  held 
at  75  or  80  yards.  Thus  adjusted  you  are  not  likely 
to  overshoot  seriously  any  big  game  at  a  closer  dis- 


Sporting  Firearms  315 

tance.  Mr.  Kephart  (Guns,  Ammunition,  and  Tackle) 
recommends  a  second  adjustment,  to  be  found  easily, 
even  in  the  dusk,  by  a  filed  notch,  sighting  the  rifle 
for  1 80  yards,  which  will  cover  all  usual  distances 
up  to  200  yards.  The  important  point  is  to  know 
one's  arm  intimately,  Choose  your  cartridge  and 
stick  to  it,  for  cartridges  vary,  even  of  the  same  di- 
mensions and  supposed  power.  In  this  connection  it 
may  be  said  that  the  cartridge  usually  has  more  to 
do  with  good  shooting  than  the  rifle.  Having  adjusted 
the  rifle  to  the  game  to  be  shot  (the  above  suggestion 
referring  only  to  deer  and  moose) ,  proceed  to  prac- 
tise hard.  Learn  to  catch  the  sights  quickly,  to  shoot 
up  and  down  hill,  offhand,  kneeling  and  lying  down; 
also  at  objects  in  the  water,  big  rocks  in  the  field, 
and  a  barrel  rolling  down  hill  (for  deer). 

The  first  cardinal  rule  is  never  to  allow  a  rifle  to 
stand  over  night  without  cleaning.  The  novice  is  apt 
to  have  too  much  confidence  in  the  cleanli-  Care  of 
ness  of  smokeless  powders,  some  of  which  Rifles 
are  quite  the  reverse  of  this,  though  the  lack  of 
smoke  masks  their  true  qualities.  Such  powders 
leave  a  residue  in  the  barrel,  that,  although  not  so 
apparent  as  that  from  black  powder,  is  yet  more 
obstinate.  There  are  good  nitro-cleaners  on  the 
market,  among  them  those  made  by  F.  A.  Hoppe 
of  Philadelphia,  which  have  been  praised  by  experts. 
"No.  9  Nitro-Powder  Solvent"  is  a  proper  cleaner, 
as  well  as  that  made  by  the  Marble  Axe  Company, 
it  must  be  remembered  that  because  a  barrel  shines 
inside  it  is  not  necessarily  quite  clean.  It  is  sufficient 
to  clean  the  rifle  after  each  use  with  some  such  oil 
as  "3  in  One,"  and  with  the  solvent  when  left  a  day 


316  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

or  two  without  use,  and  especially  before  putting 
away.  At  the  end  of  the  season  swab  it  out  with 
mercurial  ointment.  I  have  found  the  Marble 
jointed  brass  cleaning-rods  very  satisfactory.  The 
soft  brass  is  apt  to  peel,  but  this  does  not  injure  the 
rifling  if  the  dust  is  removed  from  the  barrel.  They 
are  strong  and  follow  the  rifling  better  than  one- 
pieced  rods.  If  any  rust  appears  in  the  barrel  use  the 
brush  with  rags  afterwards.  Only  the  thinnest  of  oil 
(as  "3  in  One"  or  Savage)  should  ever  be  put  on  a 
gun  lock,  and  then  very  sparingly.  Plug  both  ends 
of  the  barrel  before  putting  away  for  the  season, 
or  use  the  Marble  barrel  "  ropes."  The  Winchester 
people  make  a  very  convenient  little  mirror  for  non- 
take-down  rifles,  by  means  of  which  the  inside  of  the 
barrel  can  be  easily  inspected.  ($  .50)  Gun-grease 
may  be  used  for  barrels,  though  they  should  be  well 
swabbed  after  using  it,  except -when  left  for  along 
time.  The  best  rust-preventive  is  eternal  vigi- 
lance and  frequent  cleaning,  even  out  of  season,  as 
rifles  often  " sweat"  in  their  cases. 

Guns,  Ammunition,  and  Tackle,  in  the  American 
Sportsman's  Library  (Macmillan)  contains  much 
Biblio-  information,  both  of  a  practical  and  theo- 
graphy  retical  nature,  Mr.  Kephart's  chapter  on 
the  sporting  rifle  being  especially  valuable.  Modern 
Rifle  Shooting,  by  Dr.  W.  G.  Hudson,  treats  more  of 
military  shooting.  Walter  Winans's  Practical  Rifle 
Shooting  is  excellent,  but  deals  mostly  with  British 
conditions  and  game. 

THE  SHOTGUN 

The  proper  shotgun  for  the  north  woods  is  one  of 


Sporting  Firearms  317 

medium  weight  (say  7  pounds),  i2-bore,  hammerless 
ejector,  28-inch  barrels,  and,  as  most  of  the  shooting 
will  be  done  in  cover,  moderately  bent.  c-  . 
No  rule  can  be  given  in  regard  to  quality, 
except  to  go  to  a  reputable  dealer  and  pay  as  much 
as  you  can  afford.  A  cheap  shotgun  is  a  miserable 
thing  indeed,  and  dangerous  to  boot.  If  you  cannot 
spend  over  $25.00,  then  get  a  Stevens,  which  at  all 
events  is  safe,  and  quite  wonderful  for  the  price. 
One  must  pay  three  times  that  sum  for  anything 
recognised  by  the  experts  as  good,  while  really  fine 
shotguns  cost  from  $200  upwards,  their  barrels  and 
locks  being  marvels. 

Of  course  if  duck-shooting  is  to  be  engaged  in 
mostly  a  heavy  lo-bore  gun  may  be  preferred,  though 
1 2 -bores  can  kill  ducks  nearly  as  well.  There  is 
really  less  for  the  novice  to  do  in  the  choosing  of  a 
gun  than  a  rifle,  and  he  must  trust  his  dealer  more. 
All  that  is  necessary  is  to  select  one  that  fits  the 
shoulder  and  seems  handy.  It  should  be  furnished  with 
a  rubber  recoil-pad,  as  one  sometimes  uses  big  charges 
in  the  woods,  ducks  and  even  geese  being  possible 
acquaintances. 

The  first  thing  to  learn  is  not  to  shoot  either  your- 
self or  your  companion.  Remember  that  shotguns, 

even  more  than  rifles,  have  a  way  of  going        ~      . 

•  1         •  -11  Caution 

off,  sometimes  with  only  a  jar,  and  the  one 

safe  rule  is  to  be  sure  that  the  gun  is  absolutely 
never  pointed  towards  anyone.  Then,  if  it  is  dis- 
charged, nobody  will  be  hurt.  Particular  care 
should  be  taken  when  getting  over  fences;  at 
such  times  it  is  better  to  remove  the  shells.  Never 
allow  the  hammers  to  rest  on  the  plungers,  but 


3 1 8  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

carry  the  gun  at  half-cock,  or  with  the  safety 
catch  on. 

When  walking  with  the  gun  over  the  shoulder  carry 
the  trigger  guard  up,  so  that  the  muzzle  will  not 
point  level  or  down. 

As  all  good  sportsmen  (unless  very  hungry  indeed) 
are  expected  to  bring  their  birds  down  on  the  wing, 

it  is  evident  that  the  novice  should  devote 
Practice  1      .  .  1  „      , 

as  much  time  to  practice  as  he  can  afford. 

To  join  a  gun  club  and  shoot  at  clay  pigeons  would 
be  obviously  the  best  thing  to  do,  for,  though  a  target 
shot  is  by  no  means  always  a  good  shot  at  game, 
there  are  rudiments  of  the  sport  that  cannot  better 
be  mastered  in  any  other  manner.  Improvement 
must  be  left  to  experience  and  knowledge  of  the 
habits  of  the  quarry  in  the  field  itself.  In  regard  to 
certain  essentials  you  might  better  be  coached.  Most 
good  wing  shots  will  assure  you  that  they  keep  both 
eyes  open  when  shooting.  The  head  is  kept  well  up. 
The  right  hand  takes  a  firm  grip  of  the  stock,  to 
prevent  flinching  and  help  guide  the  gun.  The  left 
hand  is  extended  naturally.  The  heel  of  the  stock 
must  rest  against  the  same  place  on  the  shoulder 
every  shot.  This  is  very  important,  since  one  has  no 
time  to  squint  along  the  barrel.  How  far  ahead,  above 
or  below  a  flying  bird  one  should  hold  depends  of 
course  upon  the  kind  of  bird  and  the  rate  at  which 
it  is  travelling.  Judgment  of  such  points  also  belongs 
in  the  realm  of  experience. 

The  single-barrel  repeating  "pump"  shotguns, 
represented  by  the  Winchester  1897  take-down  model 
($21.60),  have  been  taken  up  to  a  great  extent 


Sporting  Firearms  319 

lately,  it  being  claimed  for  them  that  sighting  over 
the  single  barrel  is  easier  than  down  the  rib  be- 
tween two.  They  are  certainly  hard  shoot-  "Pump" 
ers,  though  rather  heavy.  The  magazine  Guns 

contains  six  shells.  In  regard  to  the  sporting  morality 
of  repeating  shotguns  it  may  be  said  that  the  sen- 
timent of  most  hunters  has  been  against  them,  but 
that  they  are  gaining  ground  even  in  this  direction. 
My  own  conviction  is  that  the  game-hog  is  not  made 
by  his  weapon,  but  is  born.  The  repeater  is  not  like 
the  automatic  reel,  for  you  may  use  the  former  as 
your  feelings  prompt  you,  while  the  reel  can  only 
be  used  in  an  unsportsmanlike  manner,  i.  e.  it  does 
not  give  the  fish  a  fair  chance.  It  follows  that  the 
reel  is  to  be  condemned,  while  the  "pump"  gun  is  not 
essentially  unsportsmanlike. 

REVOLVERS    AND    PISTOLS 

The  revolver  is  an  arm  hardly  ever  used  in  the 
north  woods,  however  convenient  it  may  be  on  the 
plains.  The  only  occasion  when  I  care  to  carry  one 
is  trapping  bears  and  other  large  game,  when  a 
rifle  might  be  considered  in  the  way  if  one  is  burdened 
with  duffle  and  perhaps  a  number  of  steel  traps.  A 
splendid  weapon  is  the  Smith  &  Wesson  .38  calibre 
revolver,  using  the  "Special"  cartridge;  better  still 
for  big  game  is  the  Smith  &  Wesson  .45  calibre.  The 
fame  of  the  Colt  revolvers  also  is  of  course  wide- 
spread. The  Marble  Company  makes  a  very  conven- 
ient revolver  cleaning-rod. 

In  regard  to  pistols  my  readers  are  referred  to  the 
chapter  on  Personal  Outfit:  (3)  Sporting  Articles. 


320  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

It  only  remains  to  mention  the  automatic  pistols, 
of  which  the  Colt  ($22.00  in  .45  calibre,  $21.00  in  .38) 
appears  to  be  the  best.  All  the  automatics  are  some- 
what complicated.  I  remember  a  whole  camp  upset 
for  a  week  trying  to  put  in  order  an  automatic  pistol. 
It  is  certainly  not  a  north  woods  weapon. 

Guns,  Ammunition,  and  Tackle,  in  the  American 
Sportsman's  Library,  is  a  competent  and  thorough 
Biblio-  authority  on  revolvers  and  pistols.  W. 
graphy  Winans's  Hints  on  Revolver  Shooting  is 
the  special  authority.  More  elaborate  is  his  Art  of 
Revolver  Shooting. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

MOOSE-HUNTING 

THE  Moose  (Alces  americanus),  or  American  Elk, 
greatest  of  the  deer  family,  is  perhaps  the  grandest 
prize  that  can  fall  to  the  prowess  of  the  hunter  in 
North  America.  It  grows  largest  in  Alaska,  where  it 
attains  such  a  size  (over  7  feet  high  at  the  withers) 
that  some  naturalists  are  inclined  to  regard  it  as  a 
separate  species.  The  largest  known  Alaskan  antlers 
(in  the  Field  Columbian  Museum,  Chicago)  have  a 
widest  spread  of  78^  inches,  and  probably  measured 
more  than  that  at  death.  The  Alaskan  moose  is  a 
black,  brown,  and  grey  monster,  while  the  moose  of 
the  United  States  and  Canada  is  black  with  grey 
legs  and  a  brownish-black  head.  Only  the  tips  of  the 
body-hairs  are  black,  the  rest  of  the  hair  being  whitish. 
The  average  bull  stands  6  feet  high  at  the  shoulders 
and  weighs  from  700  to  1,000  pounds;  the  cow  hardly- 
less.  The  antlers  of  the  adult  male  consist  of  a 
backward  sweeping  palmation  with  a  separate  set 
of  prongs  over  each  brow.  These  two  parts  of  the 
antlers  are  called  by  woodsmen  the  palms  or  pads 
and  the  "hookers."  The  record  head  for  moose  shot 
south  of  Alaska  measures  67  inches  from  tip  to  tip, 
and  came  from  New  Brunswick.  It  has  ten  points 
on  one  palm  and  thirteen  on  the  other,  and  weighs, 
including  a  portion  of  the  skull,  67  pounds.  These 
enormous  antlers  impede  the  progress  of  the  bull 
21  321 


322  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

through  the  thick  woods  in  which  he  lives,  but  much 
less  than  one  would  think.  By  means  of  laying  them 
back  on  his  shoulders  he  manages  to  penetrate  the 
thickest  jungle  at  a  "slashing  trot/'  as  President 
Roosevelt  aptly  puts  it,  being  greatly  assisted  by  his 
abnormally  long  and  powerful  legs,  which  enable  him 
to  stride  over  windfalls  that  would  stop  any  other 
deer.  A  spread  of  over  60  inches  would  be  considered 
anywhere  but  in  Alaska  to  be  very  large  for  moose- 
antlers,  and  the  hunter  need  not  be  disappointed  if 
his  set  does  not  fall  below  45  inches,  provided  it  is 
symmetrical,  a  point  as  important  as  size.  A  young 
bull  moose  one  and  one  half  years  old  is  a  "  spike-bull/' 
from  the  appearance  of  his  antlers.  Palmation  begins 
with  the  third  year,  but  the  fully  developed  antlers, 
separated  into  pads  and  hookers,  hardly  appear 
before  the  bull's  fourth  autumn.  A  moose  grows  his 
finest  antlers  between  his  sixth  and  his  tenth  year, 
but,  as  with  the  wapiti,  it  is  almost  impossible  to 
tell  the  age  of  a  moose  by  the  horns.  The  palms  grow 
broader  with  age  and  the  points  shorter,  until  they 
become  mere  scallops;  the  horns  also  become  crabbed 
and  ugly  in  old  age.  After  spending  the  latter  part 
of  the  winter  totally  denuded  of  his  antlers,  the 
moose's  new  ones  begin  to  sprout  in  early  spring  and 
grow  steadily  until  August,  when  they  attain  their 
full  size  for  that  year.  The  "velvet"  in  which  they 
have  been  enveloped  now  begins  to  loosen  and  crack, 
and  the  bull  endeavours  to  assist  nature  by  rubbing 
it  off  against  trees  and  shrubs,  the  horn  being  re- 
vealed a  rich  brown  except  at  the  points,  which  are 
whitish  and  polished.  From  this  time  on  through  the 
rutting  season,  which  lasts  from  about  the  first  week 
in  September  until  the  last  of  October,  the  bull  keeps 


A  NOVA  SCOTIA  TROPHY 


Moose-Hunting  323 

his  antlers  in  fighting  order  by  slashing  to  pieces 
shrubs  and  young  trees,  a  habit  called  by  woodsmen 
"hooking,"  and  which  is  possibly  also  a  challenge  to 
other  bulls.  The  antlers  are  dropped  in  mid- winter. 

A  peculiarity  of  the  moose  is  the  bell,  an  elongated 
dewlap  of  skin  falling  from  the  throat  of  the  bull  for 
some  eight  to  fourteen  inches,  in  some  instances 
even  lower.  Cow  moose  also  have  bells,  but  in  most 
cases  undeveloped  and  therefore  unseen.  The  bell 
slightly  decreases  in  length  after  the  antlers  are 
dropped  in  winter.  It  is  longest  in  young  bulls. 

After  losing  its  antlers  the  bull,  like  the  cow,  defends 
itself  with  its  fore  feet,  extremely  formidable  weapons. 
Wolves  and  bears  (sometimes  cougars)  are  prone  to 
attack  calves  and  even  cows,  but  unless  the  snow 
is  deep,  impeding  the  movements  of  their  intended 
victims,  they  are  usually  beaten  off,  though  many  in- 
stances are  on  record  of  calves  and  even  cows  being 
killed.  In  Nova  Scotia  it  is  a  common  thing  for 
bears  to  answer  the  call  of  the  cow  moose,  hoping  to 
make  a  breakfast  of  the  yearling,  or  perhaps  the 
mother  as  well.  In  the  autumn  of  1906  a  man  with 
whom  I  am  acquainted  shot  two  bears  that  came 
(on  different  occasions)  to  his  moose-call. 

In  May  the  cow  gives  her  yearling  calf  the  slip 
and  betakes  herself  to  some  swamp  or  other  secluded 
spot  (often  an  island,  where  she  is  safer  from  her 
enemies),  where  towards  the  end  of  the  month  she 
gives  birth  to  one  calf  if  it  is  her  first,  otherwise 
generally  to  two,  awkward  reddish-brown,  long- 
legged  little  beasts,  that  remain  with  their  mother 
until  the  next  spring.  In  spite  of  their  apparent 
awkwardness  they  can  run  and  even  swim  strongly 
before  they  are  a  week  old,  as  I  can  testify  from 


324  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

repeated  personal  experience  in  catching  them. 
(Compare  the  picture  The  Madonna  of  the  Moose.) 

During  the  hot  season  moose  frequent  the  swampy 
grounds  about  lakes  and  streams,  spending  much  of 
their  time  in  the  water  itself,  in  order  to  avoid  the 
insects  that  torture  them  and  to  feed  upon  the  leaves, 
stems  and  roots  of  aquatic  plants.  They  generally 
remain  in  low  country  until  the  mating  season  is  over, 
when  they  repair  to  the  ridges  for  the  winter.  Here, 
when  the  snow  comes,  the  bull  and  cow,  with  one  or 
more  tolerated  calves  of  that  spring,  and  perhaps 
even  another  moose  family,  form  a  "yard";  in  other 
words  they  make  a  stay  of  longer  or  shorter  duration 
in  some  one  district  where  feed  is  abundant,  the  snow 
being  gradually  trampled  down  by  the  constant 
walking  of  the  great  beasts  about  the  yard,  which 
may  be  few  or  many  acres  in  extent. 

At  the  end  of  winter  cows  and  bulls,  which,  so  far 
as  we  know,  mate  but  for  a  single  season,  separate 
and  are  seen  no  more  together.  Monogamy  is  the 
rule,  but  bulls  have  been  known  to  desert  one  cow 
for  another. 

Moose  feed  chiefly  upon  browse,  twigs  and  leaves  of 
several  varieties  of  hard  wood,  their  favourite  being 
the  moose-wood  (striped  maple),  as  well  as  shrubs, 
sweet-fern,  and,  to  a  very  limited  extent,  even  grass. 
They  gnaw  off  the  bark  of  trees  and  strip  the  tender 
leaves  with  their  great  prehensile  upper  lip  and  the 
teeth  of  the  lower  jaw.  If  the  young  trees  are  too 
high  to  reach  the  moose  will  ride  them  down  with  its 
breast.  In  eating  grass  or  snow  they  often  kneel,  but 
generally  adopt  a  kind  of  awkward  straddle. 

In  regard  to  Western  moose  President  Roosevelt 
says: 


THE   MADONNA   OF  THE    MOOSE 


Moose-Hunting  325 

In  the  summer  it  occasionally  climbs  to  the  very  summit 
of  the  wooded  ranges,  to  escape  the  flies;  and  it  is  said  that 
in  certain  places  where  wolves  are  plenty  the  cows  retire  to 
the  top  of  the  mountains  to  calve.  .  .  .  Their  ways  of  life 
of  course  vary  with  the  nature  of  the  country  they  frequent. 
In  the  towering  chains  of  the  Rockies,  clad  in  sombre  and 
unbroken  evergreen  forests,  their  habits,  in  regard  to  winter 
and  summer  homes,  and  choice  of  places  of  seclusion  for  cows 
with  young  calves  and  bulls  growing  their  antlers,  differ  from 
those  of  their  kind  which  haunt  the  comparatively  low,  hilly, 
lake-studded  country  of  Maine  and  Nova  Scotia,  where  the 
forests  are  of  birch,  beech,  and  maple,  mixed  with  the  pine, 
spruce,  and  hemlock." 

General  Remarks:  The  moose  is  gifted  with  the 
largest  and  most  efficient  nose  among  American 
fauna,  as  well  as  keen  eyes  and  sharp  ears.  Its 
smelling  powers  necessitate  that  it  must  be  hunted 
either  up-wind  (blowing  from  the  game  to  the  hunter) 
or  in  a  dead  calm.  Its  hide  is  very  tough  and,  unless 
hit  in  a  vital  spot,  it  will  carry  off  a  lot  of  lead.  Its 
flesh,  which  resembles  beef  more  than  does  venison, 
is  of  good  flavour,  especially  after  the  month  of 
October. 

The  moose,  except  in  the  rutting  season,  is  as 
gentle  as  a  deer,  in  fact  more  so.  It  will  always  run 
from  man,  the  cow  not  even  stopping  to  defend  her 
young.  In  the  mating  season,  however,  the  bulls  are 
of  uncertain  temper.  Four  fifths  of  them  will  run, 
even  if  wounded  and  cornered,  but  the  other  fifth 
will  charge,  and  a  charging  moose  is  a  terrible  oppo- 
nent. It  is  easy  enough  to  dodge  them  if  the  nature 
of  the  country  allows,  but  when  the  underbrush  is 
thick,  and  strewn  with  rocks  and  tough  vines,  a 
stumble  and  fail  might  mean  being  hooked  and  tram- 
pled to  death. 


326  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Moose  have  a  way  of  falling,  apparently  shot  to 
death,  and  then  of  recovering  unexpectedly  and 
either  running  long  distances  or  escaping  entirely. 
Never  go  too  near  a  moose  until  you  are  sure  it  is 
not  only  down,  but  "out."  Rather  give  it  an  extra 
bullet  in  a  vital  spot.  An  old  guide  told  me  that, 
after  knocking  down  a  big  bull,  he  had  drawn  his 
knife,  and,  stooping  over  the  moose,  was  about  to 
begin  skinning  it  when  it  suddenly  came  to  life  with 
a  mighty  sweep  of  its  antlers,  which  the  hunter  just 
managed  to  avoid,  and  then,  getting  on  its  feet,  dis- 
appeared in  the  brush,  before  the  hunter  could  se- 
cure his  rifle  for  another  shot.  Bulls  fight  each  other 
savagely  in  the  rutting  season  and  often  inflict 
severe  wounds,  but  it  is  generally  a  clash,  followed 
by  a  pushing-match,  the  defeated  animal  retiring 
from  the  field  before  great  harm  is  done. 

Rifles:  In  connection  with  no  other  branch  of 
sport  does  the  evergreen  controversy  between  the 
advocates  of  large  and  small  calibres  rage  as  with 
moose-hunting.  This  book  is  not  the  proper  place  to 
do  more  than  add  my  personal  testimony  and  advice, 
but  a  short  statement  of  the  conditions  will  serve 
to  freshen  our  minds  on  the  prime  requisites  of  a  big- 
game  rifle,  and  I  will  preface  this  resume  with  the 
statement  that  I  am  an  advocate  of  the  large  calibre, 
for  any  game  bigger  than  deer.  It  is  admitted  that 
the  best  rifle  (or  perhaps  we  really  ought  to  say 
cartridge,  since  the  better  manufacturers  all  make 
good  rifles)  is  that  one  which  kills  quickest  and  most 
surely.  Penetration  alone,  though  essential,  is  not 
enough;  indeed  too  much  is  a  detriment,  since  a  bul- 
let should  expend  all  its  energy  on  the  game,  whereas, 
if  a  bullet  passes  completely  through  a  body,  it  is 


Moose-  Hunting  327 

evident  that  some  of  its  energy  is  wasted.  Thus  of 
two  bullets  of  equal  size  and  weight  that  one  that 
goes,  say,  two  thirds  of  the  way  through  a  deer  will 
have  a  greater  shocking  (and  therefore  disabling) 
effect  than  the  other  that  passes  quite  through,  if 
both  strike  the  same  place.  The  ideal  bullet  would 
just  drop  out  on  the  opposite  side,  thus  expending 
all  its  energy  while  giving  two  bleeding  orifices.  In 
the  next  place  it  is  evident,  first  that  the  heavier 
the  bullet,  and  secondly  the  greater  the  striking 
surface,  the  greater  will  be  the  shock  to  the  animal. 
The  small  calibre  lovers  assert  that  their  rifles  (say 
from  .25  to  .33)  shoot  with  a  flatter  trajectory  (i.  e. 
without  having  to  raise  the  sights  so  much),  are 
easier  to  handle,  have  less  recoil,  and  finally  that, 
on  account  of  the  expansive  qualities  of  the  modern 
soft-point  bullet,  the  striking  surface  is  to  all  purposes 
as  great.  The  answer  (correct,  it  seems  to  me)  is  that 
a  bullet  weighing  170  or  200  grains  cannot  exert 
such  a  shock  as  one  weighing  from  250  to  400  grains. 
Moose  are  shot  in  four  cases  out  of  five  at  a  distance 
not  over  TOO  yards,  so  that  a  long-range  rifle  is  not 
usually  necessary,  the  .45-. 70-. 405  being  a  better  moose 
gun  than  the  .30-.30,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  the 
latter  ranges  three  times  the  distance.  Inventors 
are  constantly  striving  to  offset  the  advantages  of 
the  big  bore  while  still  cleaving  to  the  small,  most  of 
their  experiments  having  to  do  with  the  upset,  or 
mushrooming,  of  the  bullet.  The  latest  cartridge 
that  I  have  seen  is  the  Hoxie,  which  has  a  hollow 
bullet  with  a  small  steel  pellet  at  the  point.  Upon 
hitting  a  body,  this  pellet  is  driven  down  the  narrower 
hollow  channel,  splitting  it  and  causing  it  to  flatten 
out  immediately  and  effectively.  On  the  whole  it  may 


328  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

be  said  that  the  chapter  is  not  yet  closed,  and  it  would 
be  an  immodest  man  who  should  assert,  this  or  that 
is  the  only  right  rifle  or  cartridge.  While  many 
moose  are  killed,  and  sometimes  killed  quickly,  by 
small-bore  bullets,  the  result  of  my  observations 
and  investigations  has  been  to  the  effect  that,  taken 
all  in  all,  the  large  calibre  rifles  have  undoubtedly 
done  surer  and  quicker  work.  My  advice  is,  therefore, 
to  choose  one  of  the  following  rifles: 

.405    Winchester 

•35 

.45-90  H.  V. 

.45-.7o-.4oS 

If  the  country  to  be  hunted  is  thick  the  last-named 
rifle  may  be  low-power,  as  that  carries  a  bullet  weigh- 
ing 105  grains  more  than  the  H.  V.  cartridge,  though 
the  latter  will  carry  farther.  The  two  first -mentioned 
rifles  are  terribly  effective.  If  you  prefer  a  small- 
calibre  choose  one  of  these: 

.30     Springfield  (1903) 
.303  Savage 
•33     Winchester 

There  are  other  good  rifles  of  course,  and  I  make  no 
mention  of  foreign  wares,  as  I  can  see  no  use  in  going 
abroad  unless  we  can  better  ourselves,  which,  in  this 
case,  we  cannot.  Foreign  rifles  are  also  three  and 
four  times  as  expensive  as  our  own. 

When  about  to  buy  a  rifle,  if  you  are  not  sure 
what  you  want,  there  are  three  good  plans  to  follow : 
First  send  for  the  catalogues  of  the  prominent  mak- 
ers, Winchester,  Savage,  Stevens,  Remington,  Marlin, 


Moose-Hunting  329 

etc. ,  and  read  them  carefully,  as  they  are  full  of  instruc- 
tion ;  secondly,  inquire  of  some  hunter  in  whom  you 
have  confidence  who  has  hunted  over  the  district  you 
intend  to  visit,  what  kind  of  weapon  is  used  most 
there;  or,  thirdly,  get  some  friend  to  buy  your  arm 
for  you,  informing  him  in  regard  to  your  quarry  and 
the  locality  of  your  hunt.  (The  addresses  of  the 
best  makers  can  always  be  found  in  the  advertising 
sheets  of  the  sporting  periodicals.)  If  you  follow 
the  advice  given  above  in  regard  to  calibres  you 
will  not  go  wrong,  but  when  it  comes  to  choosing 
sights  it  is  a  different  question,  as  that  is  very  much 
a  personal  matter,  eyes  varying  greatly.  As  a  general 
rule  open  sights  are  best  for  hunting,  but  many  pre- 
fer some  kind  of  peep  sight.  Ivory  front  sights  are 
generally  used.  In  any  case  do  not  choose  a  com- 
plicated rear  sight  for  hunting,  but  rather  one  that 
can  be  instantly  changed,  like  the  "Sporting"  and 
others  similar.  For  those  preferring  peep  sights 
the  Lyman  " receiver"  sight  may  be  recommended, 
except  for  the  1895  Winchester  rifles,  with  which  the 
Marble  flexible  peep  sight  should  be  used.  In  this 
connection  read  the  chapter  on  Sporting  Firearms. 

A  cartridge-belt  holding  at  least  a  dozen  cartridges 
is  a  convenient  article  to  wear,  as  the  extra  shells 
are  prevented  from  jingling  in  the  pocket.  It  is  a 
good  idea  also  to  carry  one  loose  cartridge  in  the  most 
available  pocket  and  not  to  have  any  in  the  barrel 
unless  shooting  seems  imminent.  When  this  moment 
arrives  open  the  breach  slowly  and  quietly  so  that  a 
cartridge  is  not  thrown  into  the  barrel,  and  slip  the 
extra  one  in.  This  can  be  done  with  less  noise  than 
when  working  the  lever  hard  enough  to  throw  in  a 
cartridge.  Of  course  when  game  seems  sure  to  appear 


330  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

any  moment  the  barrel  should  contain  a  cartridge, 
but  the  hammer  should  be  at  half-cock,  or,  in  a  ham- 
merless,  the  safety-catch  should  be  on.  The  movement 
of  cocking  is  made  almost  automatically  as  the  rifle 
goes  to  the  shoulder.  When  alone  there  is  less  danger 
in  keeping  a  shell  in  the  barrel. 

When  in  a  good  game  country  a  rifle  should  not 
be  kept  in  the  case.  Many  a  deer  and  moose  has  been 
lost  by  the  neglect  of  this  rule. 

METHODS    OF    HUNTING 

There  are  two  recognised  methods  of  hunting  the 
moose,  Calling  and  Still-hunting.  . 

CALLING  MOOSE 

This  is  practised  during  the  rutting  season,  when 
both  bulls  and  cows  are  wandering  about  (called 
travelling)  seeking  a  mate,  and  consists  in  imitating 
the  low  or  call  of  the  cow,  and  sometimes  the  chal- 
lenge of  the  bull,  for  the  purpose  of  luring  the  bull 
within  shooting  distance.  It  has  been  rather  the 
fashion  with  writers  to  question  the  entire  sporting 
morality  of  this  method,  but,  it  seems  to  me,  without 
reason;  for,  carried  out  logically,  the  same  line  of 
argument  (unfair  advantage  of  the  game,  etc.) 
would  condemn  all  shooting  for  sport,  with  which 
ultra  standpoint,  which  in  itself  is  quite  consistent, 
we  can  have  •  no  quarrel.  Successful  moose-calling 
can  be  practised  only  under  weather  conditions  which 
obtain  only  rarely,  and  requires  a  great  deal  of  skill  on 
the  part  of  the  caller,  as  well  as  coolness  and  nerve  on 
that  of  the  sportsman,  who,  after  waiting  a  long  time 
in  the  bitter  cold  without  stirring,  and  probably  sub- 


By  courtesy  of  "  Forest  and  Stream  " 
SALMON  POOL;    GRAND  CODROY  RIVER,    NEWFOUNDLAND 


CALLING  MOOSE 


Moose -Hunting  331 

jected  to  a  good  deal  of  suppressed  excitement,  must 
pull  himself  together  at  the  proper  moment  and  shoot 
straight.  As  a  matter  of  sporting  morality  all  our 
cervidae  should  be  protected  during  the  rutting 
season,  but,  since  it  is  allowed  by  law,  it  is  just  as 
well  to  remark  that  many  years  of  moose-hunting, 
both  still-hunting  and  calling,  have  convinced  me 
that  the  one  method  is  every  bit  as  sportsmanlike 
as  the  other;  in  fact  that,  if  anything,  calling  gives 
the  moose  the  fairer  chance.  I  believe  that  most 
of  those  writers  whose  authority  obtains  in  the  land, 
and  who  oppose  calling  as  distinctly  inferior  to  "  fair 
and  square  still-hunting,"  are  gentlemen  whose 
experience  in  moose-hunting  has  been  very  restricted ; 
for  no  man  is  really  an  experienced  moose-hunter 
who  has  not  lived  years  in  the  moose  country,  long 
enough  to  have  hunted  the  big  deer  dozens  of  times 
and  to  have  absorbed  an  intimate  knowledge  of  its 
habits  and  nature.  Most  authorities  aver  that  in 
calling,  the  beast,  absolutely  blinded  by  passion  and 
taken  completely  off  its  guard,  is  lured  to  a  sure 
death,  while  the  sportsman  sits  comfortably  on  a 
log  and  leaves  all  the  scientific  part  of  the  work  to  his 
guide,  merely  shooting  the  unsuspecting  quarry  down 
when  it  appears.  Now  what  is  the  actual  truth? 
I  quote  from  my  own  letter  to  Forest  and  Stream: 

The  bull  moose,  far  from  being  so  blinded  by  passion  as 
to  be  unsuspicious,  is  never  in  the  whole  course  of  his  existence 
so  absolutely  suspicious  and  on  his  guard  as  when  he  ap- 
proaches either  a  cow  or  a  caller  in  the  mating  season.  Un- 
questionably he  is  eager  for  the  tryst,  but  his  every  sense  is 
alert,  for  his  instinct,  and  often  his  experience,  tells  him  that 
many  a  danger  lurks.  His  eyes,  his  ears,  and  most  of  all  his 
abnormal  nose  are  never  so  keenly  at  work.  Let  the  lightest 
breath  of  air  be  stirring  and  he  will  never  come  to  the  call 


332  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

except  from  the  leeward,  circling  the  locality  of  the  call  if 
necessary,  and  then  his  coming  will  depend  entirely  upon  the 
scent  his  delicate  nostrils  receive.  If  a  cow  is  calling  he 
will  come;  if  a  man,  never.  Would  this  be  the  case  if  he 
were  the  passion-blinded,  unsuspecting- beast  the  "fair  and 
square  still-hunters"  would  make  him? 

It  will  be  said  that  the  caller  plies  his  trade  only  in  a  dead 
calm,  when  the  chief  defensive  weapon  of  the  bull  is  powerless. 
This  must  be  admitted;  but  does  the  still-hunter  take  no 
such  advantage  of  his  quarry? 

"There  are  some  days,"  says  the  classic  authority  on  still- 
hunting,  "when  you  might  almost  as  well  stay  at  home. 
Such  are  the  still,  warm  days  of  autumn,  when  you  can  hear 
a  squirrel  scamper  over  the  dead  leaves  a  hundred  yards  away. 
.  .  .  Such  are  the  days  when  the  snow  is  crusty  and  stiff 
or  grinds  under  your  feet;  ...  in  short,  all  days  when 
you  cannot  walk  without  making  a  noise,  etc;  .  .  .  against 
a  strong  wind  they  cannot  smell  you  and  cannot  hear  you 
as  well  as  usual."  (T.  Van  Dyke.) 

This  was  written  of  deer-hunting,  and  moose  have  bigger 
and  better  noses  and  ears.  Does  the  good  still-hunter  of 
moose  go  forth  in  any  weather  but  that  of  his  own  choosing  ? 
Never.  He  chooses  a  windy  day,  and  one  on  which  neither 
too  much  dryness  nor  crusty  snow  will  cause  noisy  walking, 
and  he  approaches  his  quarry  carefully  from  the  leeward 
side  or  across  the  wind.  The  storm-and-stress  period  of  the 
great  beasts'  yearly  life  has  ended;  they  have  yarded  and  are 
either  lying  down,  quietly  and  peacefully  resting,  or  as  peace- 
fully browsing  on  the  young  trees,  in  either  case  as  unsuspi- 
cious as  a  moose  ever  is.  The  moose  lies  down  with  his  eyes 
and  nose  to  leeward  and  throws  up  his  big  ears  to  catch  any 
sound  borne  to  him  by  the  wind  blowing  over  his  back.  He 
feels  himself  secure,  for  he  is  at  home  and  not  going  out  of  his 
way  to  "look  for  trouble"  as  when  he  went  courting.  On 
this  account  any  hostile  sound  comes  as  a  surprise  and  he 
is  riot  especially  on  his  guard;  for  which  reason,  as  above 
said,  when  he  is  shot  it  is  nearly  always  from  ambush  and 
without  warning. 

Much  more  might  be  said  about  the  comparative  success 
of  the  two  methods — whether  there  are  more  failures  in 
calling  than  in  still-hunting,  as  I  believe;  the  difficulty  of 


Moose-Hunting  333 

shooting  straight  after  waiting  near  the  freezing  point  for  an 
hour,  usually  more,  etc.  It  is,  of  course,  more  sportsmanlike 
to  call  a  bull  yourself  than  to  have  him  called  for  you,  but 
might  not  the  same  argument  be  used  against  the  bird- 
hunter  who  uses  a  setter?  Watching  a.  good  dog  work  is 
acknowledged  to  be  one  of  the  great  charms  of  bird-shooting, 
and  yet  he  greatly  aids  the  hunter.  He  warns  his  master  and 
even  points  out  the  very  spot  whence  the  quarry  will  rise. 
How,  then,  about  the  calling  of  a  moose  ?  Is  there  no  interest 
in  seeing  and  hearing  a  practised  guide  call  up  a  bull  moose  ? 
Verily  there  is.  And  the  moments  following  the  answer 
of  the  bull  cannot  be  matched  in  any  kind  of  hunting  for 
excitement,  at  least  in  North  America. 

Doubtless  moose  are  more  easily  circumvented, 
by  both  methods,  in  little  hunted  districts,  which  is 
merely  repeating  an  ancient  sporting  axiom.  In  a 
country  like  Nova  Scotia,  where  they  have  been 
pursued  longest,  they  are  very  wary.  They  know 
well  man  and  his  works  and  cannot  be  called,  as  I 
have  heard  has  been  done  farther  west,  by  beating  on 
a  tree. 

How  easy  it  is  for  even  a  ''great  authority"  to 
fall  into  error  is  instanced  by  Mr.  A.  J.  Stone  (really 
an  authority  in  his  own  field),  who  tells  us  (The 
Deer  Fa mily,  American  Sportsman's  Library):  "Just 
here  I  want  to  correct  a  very  general  impression  that 
the  bull  moose  can  be  called  by  the  use  of  the  birch- 
bark  horn,  in  the  belief  that  he  is  approaching  a 
female.  No  bull  was  ever  half  so  stupid;  such  a 
thing  is  entirely  unreasonable." (!)  This  sounds 
like  the  line  of  argument  adopted  by  the  enemies 
of  Columbus.  There  are  several  thousand  moose- 
hunters  in  Maine  and  Canada  who,  in  spite  of  Mr. 
Stone's  "correction,"  are  still  victims  to  the  general 
impression  that  the  bull  moose  can  be  called ' 


334  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Calling  is  done  with  a  horn  of  birch-bark  from  15 
to  1 8  inches  long,  about  f  of  an  inch  wide  at  the 
small  end  and  3$  to  4  inches  at  the  other.  It  is  an 
art  only  to  be  mastered  by  long  experience  in  the 
woods,  with  plenty  of  opportunities  for  listening 
to  cow  moose  themselves,  as  well  as  to  good  human 
callers.  The  greatest  artist  is  he  who  best  knows 
and  can  closely-  imitate  the  many  lows",  whines,  and 
grunts  of  the  cow  in  the  rutting  season,  and  as  they 
are  numerous,  and  vary  with  individual  cows,  it  is 
no  simple  task.  This  variety  of  note  accounts  for  the 
fact  that  hardly  any  two  guides  seem  to  call  in  the 
same  manner,  one  making  a  sound  like  a  trumpet, 
another  like  a  steam  siren,  while  a  third  might  be 
an  old  sow  with  a  case  of  bronchitis.  In  general, 
however,  the  low  of  the  cow  moose  yearning  for  male 
companionship  is  a  long-drawn-out  Oo-wau-ach  !  be- 
ginning in  a  high  key,  swelling,  and  then  sinking 
through  about  an  octave  on  the  prolonged  wau, 
which  is  slightly  guttural,  and  ending  with  a  grunt. 
This  is  repeated  once  or  twice.  From  ten  to  twenty 
minutes  intervene  between  the  calls.  The  calling 
takes  place  from  some  point  of  vantage,  perhaps  a 
rock,  knoll,  or  tree,  commanding  a  bog,  barren,  or 
other  space  open  enough  to  give  a  fair  shot  at  a  bull 
approaching  within  a  couple  of  hundred  yards.  Some 
call  from  canoes,  but  these  offer  an  unsteady  shooting 
platform,  and  it  is  better  to  be  a  little  above  one's 
quarry  than  below  it. 

As  moose  generally  remain  quiet  during  the  day, 
and  some  air  is  always  stirring  so  long  as  the  sun  is 
above  the  horizon,  it  follows  that  there  are  only  two 
periods  of  the  day  or  night  in  which  calling  is  possible, 
since  the  first  and  most  absolute  essential  is  a  dead 


Moose-Hunting  335 

calm.  The  reason  for  this  is  twofold:  first,  and 
less  important,  so  that  the  caller  may  hear  a  distant 
answer,  and  chiefly  because,  if  the  slightest  breeze 
is  stirring,  the  moose,  though  he  may  hear  the  call 
and  approach,  will  not  " speak"  (answer),  but  will 
surely  keep  out  of  sight  and  circle  round  until  he 
gets  to  leeward  and  tests  the  scent.  Then  good-bye, 
Sir  Moose. 

The  choice  between  morning  and  evening  for  calling 
is  often  solved  by  accepting  both.  For  myself,  I 
do  not  like  to  call  at  night,  except  under  certain 
conditions,  for  the  reason  that  the  bull  is  all  too  apt 
to  arrive  after  it  is  too  dark  for  anything  but  a  chance 
shot,  which  can  satisfy  no  true  sportsman.  I  have 
known  of  too  many  bulls  coming  up  late  at  night 
from  a  great  distance  and  passing  within  a  few  yards 
of  the  impotent  hunters,  usually  to  get  their  scent 
and  disappear  for  good.  Another  mistake  too  easily 
made  in  the  dusk  is  to  shoot  a  cow  for  a  bull,  a  very 
common  occurrence.  The  only  occasion  when  calling 
in  the  late  afternoon  is  justifiable  is  when  the  party 
is  intending  to  leave  that  part  of  the  country  before 
morning,  or  when  there  is  at  least  an  hour  or  more 
of  daylight  left.  In  the  latter  case  a  few  calls,  made 
low,  so  as  not  to  start  a  bull  at  a  greater  distance 
than  he  can  cover  before  dark,  may  be  made,  the 
real  calling  being  reserved  for  the  morning. 

Called  bulls  act  in  very  different  ways.  Occasionally 
one  will  answer  and  come  up  at  once,  "speaking" 
every  few  minutes,  while  another  will  approach 
noiselessly  without  any  vocal  accompaniment,  re- 
connoitre the  situation,  and  disappear  without  the 
hunter  knowing  of  its  presence.  This  is  likely  to  be 
a  young  bull  that  has  already  felt  the  antlers  of  a 


336  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

successful  rival,  or  one  that  has  been  shot  at  in  times 
past.  The  extraordinary  noiselessness  with  which 
such  a  monstrous  animal  can  walk  through  thick 
bushes  and  dry  shrubs  on  a  perfectly  still  morning 
is  perfectly  wonderful,  and  is  due  in  great  measure 
to  its  comparatively  small  hoofs,  which  it  places 
gingerly  on  'the  ground.  A  big  bull  is  apt  to  come 
to  the  call  fairly  roaring  with  rage,  especially  in  the 
evening,  but  as  a  rule  he  is  too  much  on  his  guard 
to  do  more  than  utter  his  rather  subdued  4'wah!  " 
A  quiet  bull  is  often  betrayed  by  his  antlers,  which, 
in  the  heavy  timber,  he  cannot  prevent  from  striking 
against  an  occasional  limb,  making  a  sound  too 
characteristic  to  be  mistaken. 

Camp  is  made  either  on  the  calling-ground  itself 
or  within  easy  approach.  No  more  noise  is  made  than 
is  actually  necessary,  chopping  being  avoided  unless 
a  strong  wind  blows  from  the  direction  whence  the 
bull  is  likely  to  come.  If  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  calling-place  even  a  fire  is  a  risk.  If  made  it 
should  be  a  small  one  of  dry  hard  wood,  giving  little 
smoke.  No  cruising  about  the  vicinity  is  allowable. 
Some  guides  even  taboo  the  pipe  in  camp,  and  of 
course  always  when  calling.  It  is  best  to  eat  nothing 
the  evening  before  that  will  cause  the  stomach  to 
roll  audibly,  such  a  noise  being  very  disconcerting 
when  listening  in  a  dead  calm.  One  should  rise  in 
time  to  get  a  bite  to  eat,  as  nothing  is  so  foolish  as  to 
go  out  in  the  cold  with  an  empty  stomach.  A  cup 
of  hot  coffee  and  a  biscuit  will  suffice. 

There  is  one  little  luxury  of  moose-calling  that  I 
have  found  most  convenient,  namely,  a  small  elec- 
tric pocket-lamp.  Before  daybreak  it  saves  the 
trouble  of:  striking  innumerable  matches  to  consult 


Moose-Hunting  337 

one's  watch,  and  it  is  handy  when  getting  to  the 
ground  in  darkness.  One  should  be  at  the  calling- 
place  at  dawn  or  a  few  minutes  before,  and  if  it  is 
the  still,  frosty  morning  desired,  the  hunter  will  be 
grateful  for  everything  warm  that  he  can  pull  on: 
double  underclothes,  sweater,  two  or  three  pairs  of 
socks,  mittens,  and,  if  camp  is  near  by,  a  blanket  too. 
The  whisky-flask  may  or  may  not  be  taken  along. 
I  have  known  it  to  raise  the  temperature  of  the  blood 
when  it  badly  needed  raising.  The  caller  takes  his 
chosen  station  while  the  others  of  the  party  make 
themselves  as  comfortable  as  possible,  taking  posi- 
tions in  which  they  can  remain  a  considerable  time 
without  changing  or  "  fidgeting,"  as  any  and  every 
noise  prevents  the  caller  from  devoting  his  undivided 
attention  to  listening  for  the  far-off  "wah!  "  of  a 
bull.  When  the  great  beast  is  within  a  mile  or  less 
the  hunters  either  remain  where  they  are,  or  the 
caller  may  send  them  to  stations  nearer  the  bull; 
this  depends  entirely  on  the  "lay  of  the  land."  If 
the  caller  cannot  induce  an  apparently  unwilling 
bull  by  carefully  modulated  whines  and  lows,  or,  if 
those  fail,  by  imitating  the  challenge  of  the  bull  and 
striking  the  bushes  with  his  bark  call  as  if  a  rival 
were  trying  his  antlers,  he  must  either  be  given  up  or 
still-hunted,  and  this,  in  a  calm  and  with  the  bull's  sus- 
picions completely  aroused,  is  a  difficult  task  indeed. 

When  the  bull  approaches  as  near  as  he  seems  likely 
to  come,  give  it  to  him  without  delay,  taking  a 
steady  aim  at  his  shoulder  or  a  little  behind  it,  rather 
low  than  high,  so  as  not  to  miss  the  vital  organs. 
If  you  fire  when  he  is  facing  you,  aim  at  the  middle 
of  his  chest.  Keep  firing  until  he  is  down  is  the  only 
good  rule. 


338  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

STILL-HUNTING 

"There  is  no  grander  sport,"  says  Theodore 
Roosevelt,  "than  still-hunting  the  moose,  whether 
in  the  vast  pine  and  birch  forests  of  the  Northeast, 
or  among  the  stupendous  mountain  masses  of  the 
Rockies, "  a  sentiment  in  which  every  experienced 
hunter  must  concur.  If  you  have  won  your  master's 
degree  by  laying  low  the  deer  or  the  caribou,  here 
is  your  chance  to  become  a  "doctor"  in  the  faculty 
of  still-hunting.  You  must  put  in  practice  every 
rule  you  have  been  taught  and  you  must  add  a  few 
new  ones.  The  chief  reasons  for  this  difficulty  in 
still-hunting  the  moose  lie  in  the  great  beast's  ab- 
normal senses  of  hearing  and  smell,  and  in  the  fact 
that  the  hunter  must  for  the  greatest  part  of  the 
time  work  in  thick  woods,  most  difficult  to  penetrate 
without  noise  and  too  dense  to  see  the  quarry  until 
very  near  it.  It  is  easy  to  lay  down  a  general  plan 
of  campaign,  but  the  thousand  and  one  little  rules 
which  must  be  applied  on  the  spot,  according  to  the 
momentary  situation,  cannot  be  even  catalogued. 

A  few  words  in  regard  to  equipment. 

One  goes  forth  prepared  to  walk  a  long  time,  perhaps 
all  day,  over  killing  country.  A  drenching  is  possi- 
ble, wet  feet  and  legs  beyond  question.  On  the  cold- 
est day  you  will  perspire  while  your  ears  tingle.  The 
obvious  solution  is  wool  next  the  skin;  not  too  thick, 
or  you  will  be  uncomfortably  hot.  Two  or  three  pairs 
of  socks  may  be  worn  with  moose-shanks  (see  Per- 
sonal Out-fit)  or  moccasins  or  larrigans.  Larrigans, 
coming  over  the  ankle,  are  better  than  moccasins  as 
they  do  not  so  easily  fill  with  water,  mud,  and  snow, 
and  do  not  come  off.  Knee-high  boots  with  mocca- 


Moose-Hunting  339 

sin  feet  are  good  though  often  heavy,  and  every 
ounce  tells  in  an  all-day  tramp.  If  worn  the  trousers 
or  stockings  should  be  drawn  over  the  uppers,  as 
leather  is  too  noisy.  For  the  same  reason  no  other 
part  of  the  hunter's  dress  should  be  of  any  material 
that  makes  a  sound  when  scraped  against  trees,  brush, 
or  rocks.  Nails  in  boots,  canvas  of  all  varieties,  rubber 
(except  perhaps  for  soles),  etc.,  must  be  tabooed. 
Knitted  mittens  are  best  in  cold  weather,  as  they 
are  kept  warm  by  the  heat  of  the  hands  even  when 
wet,  which  they  usually  are  in  still-hunting. 

A  lunch  sufficient  for  the  day,  and  of  a  character 
not  easily  damaged  by  the  wet,  must  be  taken  along, 
as  well  as  the  water-proof  matchbox,  the  hunting- 
knife,  and  a  dozen  cartridges  (or  a  half-dozen  besides 
those  in  the  magazine  of  the  rifle),  not  carried  loose 
in  the  pocket,  where  they  will  rattle,  but  in  the  loops 
of  the  belt  or  some  other  quiet  manner.  One  of  the 
party,  the  hunter  of  the  day,  takes  the  lead,  the  oth- 
ers, unless  otherwise  directed,  following  in  single  file. 
It  is  best  that  nobody,  excepting  perhaps  the  leader, 
should  carry  a  cartridge  in  his  rifle-barrel  as  long  as 
the  members  of  the  party  are  grouped  near  together. 

Like  the  "caller,"  though  to  a  less  extent,  the 
still-hunter  is  dependent  upon  the  weather.  The 
elements  must  be  more  or  less  in  uproar,  in  order  to 
swallow  up  the  sound  of  his  awkward  human  going, 
before  he  ventures  forth  with  any  hope  of  "creeping 
on"  a  moose.  A  breezy  morning  after  a  light  snow- 
storm is  the  ideal  condition.  The  direction  of  the 
wind  is  noted  and  signs  of  a  yard  are  sought,  such 
as  fresh  tracks,  dung,  and  browsing.  Unless  fresh 
tracks  are  found  hunters  usually  look  for  browsing 
(tree-croppings)  that  is  not  over  a  day  or  two  old, 


340  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

which  will  indicate  that  the  locality  is  part  of  a  yard, 
i.  e.  that  moose  are  not  very  far  off.  In  that  case 
the  wind  tells  the  hunter  about  the  direction  in  which 
to  seek  his  quarry,  for  moose,  in  a  general  way, 
remain  near  the  leeward  limit  of  the  yard.  The 
time  of  day  and  the  weather  will  indicate  whether  the 
moose  is  likely  to  be  lying  down  in  a  swamp  or  out 
in  the  sun  on  the  barren,  or  feeding.  The  probabilities 
having  thus  been  determined,  the  approach  is  begun, 
up  or  across  wind,  of  course.  Every  man  goes  as 
noiselessly  as  he  may.  No  use  of  tobacco  is  permitted 
and  talking  should  be  limited  to  the  whispered  direc- 
tions of  the  leader.  No  chances  of  snapping  twigs 
or  breaking  through  old  logs  are  taken.  Bushes  are 
quietly  put  aside  with  the  free  hand.  Each  man 
steps  in  the  tracks  of  the  man  ahead  unless  he  can 
obviously  improve  on  them — in  case,  for  example, 
the  man  in  front  plants  his  foot  on  a  slippery  or 
treacherous  place.  The  moose  may  be  but  a  hundred 
yards  away;  no  man  can  tell,  for  their  general  habits 
cannot  be  relied  upon  absolutely.  It  will  in  most 
cases  feed  and  travel  with  the  wind;  it  will  lie  down 
during  the  noon  hours;  but  there  are  many  exceptions 
to  these  rules.  Nevertheless  it  is  well  to  go  round, 
if  the  wind  will  permit,  as  it  usually  will,  and  find 
the  leeward  limit  of  the  yard.  The  advance  then  may 
be  straight  ahead,  but  more  likely  zigzag  or  with 
frequent  right-angle  cuts,  especially  if  the  course  of 
the  animal  is  uncertain.  The  object  is  to  make  sure 
that  the  moose  is  still  ahead  of  the  hunt,  and  has  not 
circled  off  to  one  side  or  the  other,  in  which  case  the 
hunters  might  soon  be  to  windward  of  the  moose, 
which  would  get  the  scent  and  the  hunt  would  be  up 
for  that  day. 


Moose-Hunting  341 

The  novice  will,  of  course,  hardly  possess  the 
temerity  to  try  hunting  moose  alone.  He  needs 
a  good  guide,  and,  while  taking  a  few  lessons  of  this 
master,  he  will  perhaps  learn  the  faster  for  the  above 
synopsis  of  the  grammar  of  the  art. 

WOUNDED  MOOSE 

Most  old  hunters  recommend  that  wounded  moose 
should  not  be  followed  unless  the  wound  is  apparently 
fatal;  for,  if  slightly  hurt,  the  animal  will  run  too 
fast  and  far  to  be  overtaken.  If  not  pursued,  however, 
it  very  often  lies  down,  and  the  wound  may  bleed 
to  such  an  extent,  or  cause  such  stiffness,  that  the 
animal  can  be  found  next  morning  in  so  weak  a 
condition  as  to  prevent  its  escape.  The  severer  the 
wound  the  more  likely  is  this  to  occur.  I  lost  a  fine 
moose  once  by  following  it  too  soon.  The  shot  was 
too  long  for  certainty  (400  yards  in  a  thin  mist),  but 
there  was  such  a  flow  of  blood  that  I  was  convinced 
I  should  overtake  the  moose  in  a  short  time.  In  fact 
as  I  entered  a  swamp  I  heard  the  animal  travelling 
not  far  in  advance,  and  I  pressed  forward  in  excite- 
ment. Had  I  stopped  to  think  I  would  have  known 
that  I  might  better  wait  until  the  next  day,  for  the 
moose  had  had  a  good  start  of  me,  and  the  fact  that 
I  had  come  up  with  it  could  only  mean  that  the 
wound  was  severe  enough  to  cause  it  to  stop  and 
probably  lie  down,  getting  up  again  only  when  it 
heard  me.  Had  I  waited  some  hours  the  quarry 
would  very  likely  have  been  mine,  but  as  it  was  I 
never  saw  it  again,  and  had  it  not  been  that  it  ran 
into  another  party  of  hunters  and  was  killed  by  them 
I  should  have  had  a  possible  lingering  death  on  my 


342  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

conscience.  This  is  but  one  of  very  many  such  in- 
stances that  will  occur  to  experienced  hunters. 

BUTCHERING 

(See  also  under  Deer-Hunting.)  Mr.  Kephart  says, 
"If  a  complete  job  of  butchering  is  to  be  done  [elk 
or  moose],  there  must  be  a  horse,  or  several  men 
with  a  ^ope,  to  elevate  the  body."  Some  pretty  good 
jobs  of  butchering  are  done  in  the  Maritime  Provinces 
and  in  Maine,  and  it  is  needless  to  say  that  no  horse 
is  available,  and  that  the  butchering  is  almost  in- 
variably done  on  the  ground,  a  moose  weighing  any- 
where from  700  pounds  upwards,  usually  about  850 
or  more.  Proceed  as  for  a  deer,  and  be  sure  to  cut 
round  the  neck  way  down  to  the  shoulders,  to  allow 
enough  skin  for  the  taxidermist.  The  head  skin  is 
removed  after  making  a  cut  from  the  shoulders  up 
the  back  of  the  neck  to  a  point  about  three  inches 
behind  the  antlers  (or  between  the  ears)  and  then 
cuts  from  that  point  diago- 
nally to  each  antler-base  and 
round  the  antler.  (Figure  68.) 
Cut  the  ear  cartileges  close  to 
the  skull,  and  be  careful  not 
to  injure  the  inner  and  outer 
skins  of  the  eyelids.  Cut 

round  the  tops  of  the  gums 
FIG.    68.— Moose-Head  -,  ,«       r    .     '      £  , «  ,   .« 

c,      .     „  '        T .  and  the  lining  of  the  nostrils. 

Showing  Cutting  Lines 

Sever  the   head   at   the   last 

vertebra.  Take  out  the  brain  and  scrape  the  skull  clean 
of  all  flesh,  then  dry.  Tie  the  lower  jaw  to  the  skull,  to 
prevent  its  loss.  The  scalp  must  be  cleaned  of  flesh  and 
fat,  rubbed  with  salt,  and  folded  up  over  night  in  a 


Moose-Hunting  343 

cool  place.  In  the  morning  open  and  salt  again ;  then 
dry  and  keep  from  fly-blows.  The  hide  may  be 
cleaned  and  salted.  It  should  not  be  allowed  to  get 
wet.  Moose-hide  is  less  valuable  than  buckskin  or 
caribou-hide,  but  the  skin  makes  a  good  rug  for  the 
cabin  floor.  Antlers  are  measured  between  the 
two  points  farthest  from  each  other,  but  at  right 
angles  with  the  backbone  of  the  animal  and  not 
diagonally  across.  The  length  and  breadth  of  the 
pads  are  also  measured.  (See  page  359.) 

Many  sporting  books  contain  accounts  of  moose- 
hunting,    among    them    T.    Roosevelt's    Wilderness 
Hunter,  Mr.  Selous' s  Hunting  Trips  in  North 
America,  and   others,   but   I    know  of  no 
book  that  treats  of  the  subject  fully  and 
systematically. 


CHAPTER  XV 

DEER-HUNTING 

THE  Virginia  or  White -tail  deer  (Odocoileus  vir- 
ginianus}  is  the  most  widely  distributed  of  our  big 
game,  and  hence  the  best-known  and  most  hunted.  It 
is  also  the  most  beautiful  in  form  and  graceful  in 
movement.  It  is  by  far  the  wariest  deer  on  the  Amer- 
ican continent.  It  is  found  in  most  of  the  northern 
United  States  and  in  Canada,  but  is  commonest  in 
Maine,  northern  New  York,  Vermont,  Minnesota, 
Montana,  Michigan,  Ontario,  and  parts  of  New 
Brunswick.  With  certain  dwarf  varieties  of  the 
White-tail  inhabiting  the  Southern  States  we  have 
no  concern  here. 

The  doe  usually  gives  birth  to  one  fawn  in  May, 
a  beautiful  little  spotted  creature  weighing  about 

Description  4*  Pounds-  The  adult  buck  weighs 
about  200  pounds,  though  large  ones 
range  up  to  280.  "A  large  buck  stands  36  inches 
high  at  the  shoulders,  is  53  inches  in  length  of  head 
and  body,  its  tail  is  7  inches  long  to  the  end  of  the 
vertebrae,  and  5  inches  more  to  the  end  of  the  hair. 
A  fairly  large  pair  of  antlers  from  central  Montana 
are  23^  inches  in  length  from  burr  to  tip  of  beam, 
spread  18  inches,  and  have  13  points.'*  (Hornaday.) 
The  coat  is  reddish  in  summer,  when  the  antlers 
are  in  velvet,  but  changes  to  a  "  mottled  brown- 

344 


Deer-Hunting  345 

grey"  in  autumn  and  winter,  with  lighter  tints 
below.  The  tail,  from  which  this  deer  derives  its 
popular  name,  is  long,  wedge-shaped  and  bushy,  white 
in  colour  underneath  and  round  the  edges  above. 
This  "  flag  "  is  elevated  when  the  animal  is  alarmed,  and 
is  a  well-known  sign  to  sportsmen,  meaning  that  the 
deer  is  on  the  jump  and  aimed  for  the  next  county ! 

Like  other  deer  the  White-tail  mates  in  early 
autumn,  which  is  also  the  time  of  the  open  hunting- 
season.  It  is  worthy  of  comment  that,  while  we 
protect  almost  all  other  animals  and  birds  in  the 
mating  season,  we  fail  to  do  this  in  the  case  of  the 
pride  of  our  fauna,  the  Cervidcz. 

The  antlers  of  the  White-tail  are  small,  but  beau- 
tifully shaped  and  poised.  Spikes  are  usually  grown 
the  first  year,  after  which  points,  or  snags,  appear; 
not  one  for  each  year  of  the  deer's  growth,  as  was 
formerly  believed,  but  according  to  the  animal's 
vigour,  though  of  course  the  general  rule  holds 
good  that  the  more  numerous  the  points  the  older 
the  deer.  The  White-tail  buck  has  been  known  to 
carry  78  points  with  a  spread  of  26^  inches,  but  a 
pair  of  antlers  bearing  from  4  to  8  points  on  each 
beam  is  far  handsomer.  Monstrosities  are  frequent 
in  old  deer,  and  many  interlocked  pairs  of  antlers 
have  been  found,  the  result  of  fights  fatal  to  both 
antagonists. 

Living   herded   together   in   small   companies,    or 
even  a  single  pair  with  perhaps  a  faun  of  the  year 
before,  the  deer  pass  the  winter  in  "  yards,"          H  . . 
partially  pathed  and  trampled-down  tracts 
where  there  is  good  feed  of  evergreens,  moss,  twigs, 
and  dry  grass.    When  the  snow  disappears  the  bucks 


346  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

and  the  does  separate,  going  their  own  ways  singly 
or  in  twos  and  threes.  They  fatten  on  the  new  and 
rich  verdure,  the  winter  coat  comes  off  and  is  replaced 
by  the  sleek  summer  dress.  The  fawn  is  born  towards 
the  middle  of  May,  in  thick  cover.  One  fawn  is  the 
rule  if  it  is  the  first-born,  afterwards  one  or  two, 
and  even  (very  rarely)  three.  The  fawn  remains  where 
it  is  born  for  some  weeks  (unlike  the  moose  and 
wapiti).  Its  colour  is  a  rich  brown  ornamented  with 
rows  of  white  spots.  After  the  fourth  or  fifth  week 
the  fawn  follows  its  mother  and  develops  rapidly. 
Deer  feed  very  early  in  the  day  and  towards  and 
through  the  evening.  About  noon  in  the  north  woods 
they  visit  a  drinking- pi  ace,  though  the  daily  drink 
may  be  postponed  to  evening  near  settlements.  On 
moonlit  nights  they  are  almost  sure  to  be  abroad.  The 
fawn  loses  its  spots  in  September  and  thereafter 
shifts  for  itself  so  far  as  food  is  concerned,  for  the 
mother  will  nurse  it  no  longer.  But  though  weaned 
they  continue  to  follow  the  dam,  the  young  bucks 
usually  for  a  single  year,  the  females  for  two.  The 
older  young  are  kept  at  a  distance,  however,  while 
their  baby  brethren  are  being  nursed.  In  January 
the  antlers  are  shed;  sooner  if  very  vigorous,  later 
if  weak.  The  new  antlers  begin  to  show  as  soft 
knobs  in  a  few  weeks  after  the  old  ones  are  dropped, 
and  are  full-grown  by  August.  Almost  to  the  last 
they  are  rather  soft,  have  blood-vessels  and  nerves, 
and  are  therefore  subject  to  frequent  accidents  and 
deformations. 

In  regard  to  clothing  and  accoutrements  the 
reader  is  referred  to  the  chapter  on  Moose-Hunting, 
as  the  requirements  for  still-hunting  that  animal  are 
practically  identical  with  deer-hunting  necessities.  A 


Deer-Hunting  347 

typical  costume  may  consist  of  felt  hat,  soft  silk 
neckerchief,  thin  pure-woollen  underwear, 
grey  woollen  shirt,  flannel-lined  brown 
corded  waistcoat  with  deep  pockets,  neutral-coloured 
coat  or  sweater  (in  very  cold  weather  both),  belt 
(with  dull  buckle)  on  which  are  fastened  hunting- 
knife  sheath  and  cartridge  loops,  soft  but  stout  woollen 
trousers  tucked  into  heavy  woollen  stockings  or 
socks,  and  double-soled  moccasins.  Knickerbockers 
with  woollen  leggings  are  also  good.  If  high-legged 
larrigans  are  worn  they  must  be  covered  with  the 
trousers  or  stockings,  as  otherwise  the  underbrush 
scratches  against  them  noisily.  In  cold  weather 
a  pair  of  thick  knit  woollen  gloves  or  mittens  are  a 
necessity,  though  some  prefer  buckskin.  I  have 
found  the  latter  cold  when  wet,  while  the  wool  is 
always  warm.  The  emergency  lunch  and  the  water- 
proof matchbox  should  always  be  in  the  pocket. 

A  binocular  in  the  north  woods  is  generally  more 
bother  than  worth,  except  in  bare,  mountainous 
regions,  or  in  Newfoundland. 

A  big,  heavy  bullet  is  not  so  necessary  in  shooting 
deer  as  moose  or  bear,  and  many  sportsmen  incline 
to  the  use  of  such  rifles  as  the  Springfield 
.30,  the  Savage  .303,  or  the  Winchester 
.30  or  .33,  of  course  with  soft-nosed  bullets.  But  a 
large  class  will  decidedly  prefer  a  bigger  calibre, 
such  as  the  .45-.  70  and  .35  Winchester  or  the  automatic 
.35.  The  only  objection  of  any  moment  to  the  use  of 
the  heavier  bullets  is  that  they  often  spoil  much 
meat;  but  the  vital  parts  of  the  animal  do  not  lie 
under  the  best  meat,  and  even  if  they  did  the  loss 
of  a  little  meat  would  be  a  small  price  to  pay  for  the 


348  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

sudden  and  easy  death  of  the  quarry.  In  case  a 
small  calibre  is  used  the  new  Hoxie  cartridge,  which 
has  a  quickly  expanding  bullet,  may  be  recommended. 

Loop-straps,  with  room  for  a  dozen  cartridges,  and 
easily  fastened  to  the  belt,  can  be  had  of  the  dealers. 
r  t  -A  Carried  in  this  manner  the  cartridges  do 
not  rattle  noisily  as  when  carried  in  the 
pocket.  You  will  have  from  four  to  ten  cartridges  in 
your  rifle-magazine  besides  the  extra  dozen,  enough 
to  kill  a  whole  herd  of  deer. 

Before  starting  out,  practice  with  your  rifle  upon 
objects  in  different  lights  and  at  different  elevations. 
•  For  running  deer  a  barrel  running  down 
hill  is  a  good  target.  Do  not  try  to  follow 
the  barrel  with  your  rifle,  but  aim  at  some  point 
that  will  be  traversed  by  the  barrel  and  shoot  when 
the  barrel  crosses  it.  Sight  your  rifle  for  80  yards; 
that  is,  set  the  sights  so  that,  using  a  natural  bead, 
neither  too  fine  nor  too  coarse,  the  rifle  will  shoot 
neither  over  nor  under.  Thus  sighted  it  will  be 
found  that  you  can  shoot  point-blank,  as  it  is  called, 
at  game  anywhere  between  distances  of  30  to  150 
yards  without  changing  the  sights,  by  taking  a  finer 
or  coarser  bead,  as  the  case  may  be,  the  inch  or  two 
difference  in  the  flight  of  the  bullet  being  no  great 
matter. 

Practice  shooting  both  offhand  and  with  a  rest, 
but  when  drawing  a  bead  on  game  take  every  advan- 
Shooting  tage.  Kneel  or  take  a  good  rest  against 
at  Game  a  tree  or  over  a  rock  if  the  situation  will 
allow.  Be  expeditious,  but  deliberate.  Never  take 


Deer-Hunting  349 

a  pot-shot  at  a  patch  of  colour  in  the  bush;  wait 
for  a  better  opportunity  and  perhaps  refrain  from 
slaying  a  fellow-man. 

Carry  your  weapon  in  the  hollow  of  your  arm, 
pointing  at  the  ground,  or,  if  someone  is  in  front, 
of!  to  one  side;  or  over  the  shoulder,  Carrying 
but  the  usual  method,  with  the  trigger-  the  Rifle 
guard  down,  is  dangerous  to  the  front  sight,  as  it  is 
very  apt  to  come  in  sharp  contact  with  limbs  and  be 
knocked  out  of  plumb.  Rather  turn  the  under  side 
of  the  rifle  up,  or,  if  leading,  carry  the  stock  over  the 
shoulder  and  hold  the  rifle  by  the  barrel.  Carry  the 
barrel  empty  and  throw  in  a  cartridge  only  when 
there  is  an  actual  probability  of  seeing  game.  Then 
carry  the  hammer  at  half-cock,  or,  in  the  case  of 
a  hammerless,  with  the  safety-catch  on.  Get  into  the 
excellent  habit  of  looking  every  few  minutes  to  see 
that  all  is  right  with  your  rifle.  More  than  once  in  my 
life  I  have  discovered,  with  something  of  a  shock, 
that  my  rifle  was  at  full-cock,  probably  by  being 
scraped  by  a  branch.  Remember  that  guns  will  go. 
off,  in  spite  of  the  greatest  care.  See  to  it  that,  when 
they  do,  they  shall  not  be  pointed  in  the  direction  of 
your  companions.  For  the  same  reason  of  caution 
never,  under  any  provocation  or  temptation,  shoot 
unless  you  can  see  plainly  what  you  are  shooting 
at.  It  is  worse  to  take  a  snap-shot  and  wound  a  deer 
without  getting  it  than  to  miss  entirely,  and  you  may 
also  find  that  your  mark  was  a  man,  in  which  case 
go  hang  yourself  at  once  and  rid  the  world  of  a 
criminal  fool.  There  was  a  time  in  Maine  not  so  long 
since  when  I  would  have  worn  a  red-and-white 
striped  sweater  while  hunting  deer,  or  stay  at  home. 


350  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

The  deer-hunting  season  is  in  the  autumn,  the 
legal  period  for  killing  being  in  the  principal  States 
in  1907  as  follows:  Maine,  October  ist  to 
December  i5th;  Vermont,  October  2ist 
to  October  2yth  inclusive;  New  Hampshire,  October 
ist  to  December  ist;  New  York  (with  local  excep- 
tions), September  1 5th  to  November  ist;  Michigan, 
November  loth  to  December  ist;  Minnesota  and 
Wisconsin,  November  icth  to  December  ist;  Mon- 
tana, September  ist  to  December  i5th;  Quebec, 
September  ist  to  January  ist;  Ontario,  November 
ist  to  November  i5th;  New  Brunswick,  September 
1 5th  to  December  ist. 

The  legal  seasons  in  other  districts,  as  well  as 
local  exceptions  and  changes  in  the  game  laws,  may 
be  ascertained  from  Game  Laws  in  Brief,  published 
periodically  by  Forest  and  Stream,  New  York  city 
($.25.) 

Hunting  deer  cannot  be  learned  from  this  or  any 
other  book,  and  the  novice  who  goes  forth  for  the 
Methods  of  first  time  into  the  woods  without  a  corn- 
Hunting  petent  guide  is  a  very  foolish  man  if  he 
thinks  to  get  a  shot  at  a  deer.  The  following  remarks 
are  therefore  only  to  be  considered  as  containing  the 
A  B  C  of  the  art,  general  maxims  upon  which  to  build 
success  with  the  aid  of  experience. 

Since  hounding  (chasing  with  dogs),  crusting  (pur- 
suing over  crusted  snow,  through  which  the  small 
feet  of  the  deer  break),  and  jacking  (night-shooting 
by  means  of  the  dark  lantern,  or  "jack")  have  long 
since  rightly  become  illegal,  the  only  method  now 
practised  in  the  north  country  is  still-hunting,  which 
may  be  distinguished  from  stalking  (the  usual  Eng- 


Deer-Hunting  351 

lish  word)  by  the  fact  that  it  takes  place  not  in  open, 
but  in  forest  country,  thus  being  different  from  the 
chase  of  the  British  cervidce  or  of  most  of  our  own 
in  the  West.  In  general  the  hints  on  still-hunting  the 
moose  may  be  followed.  Arrived  on  the  ground,  ev- 
idence of  the  recent  presence  of  deer  is  sought  in  the 
shape  of  fresh  tracks  and  droppings,  browsing,  rub- 
bings on  trees,  etc.,  and  the  game  is  then  approached 
across  or  against  the  wind.  On  a  still  day  one  might 
better  stay  at  home,  or  when  the  snow  has  a  noisy 
crust.  Smoking  is  bad,  in  spite  of  the  assurance  of 
some  guides  to  the  contrary,  nor  should  the  guide 
chew  tobacco;  for,  if  I  can  smell  a  chew  ten 
yards,  a  deer  can  nose  it  at  ten  times  that  distance, 
unless  the  wind  is  very  strong  against  the  hunter. 
All  talking  and  rattling  of  accoutrements  must  be 
avoided.  The  breaking  of  even  a  large  stick  may 
not  actually  "jump"  a  deer,  being  a  natural  noise 
of  the  forest,  but  it  will  certainly  put  it  on  its  guard 
for  a  minute;  and,  should  such  a  thing  happen  under 
the  moccasin,  it  is  well  to  keep  perfectly  still  for  at 
least  that  period,  for  the  deer's  keen  ears  will  be 
turned  in  your  direction,  and,  should  any  additional 
noise  be  heard,  it  will  be  off  at  once.  The  freshness  of 
the  signs  will  indicate  in  a  general  way  the  nearness 
of  the  game,  and  of  course  cautiousness  should  in- 
crease with  propinquity.  In  following  tracks  go  as 
swiftly  as  may  be,  but  not  s©  fast  as  to  make  false 
steps  and  allow  hurry  to  dull  the  senses.  A  deer's 
track  is  very  like  those  of  the  hog  and  sheep.  Study 
them  all,  and  learn  to  observe  all  tracks  in  the  coun- 
try, even  your  own,  in  order  to  become  expert  in  the 
judgment  of  their  freshness.  In  trailing,  since  you 
have  only  the  perceptions  of  yourself  or  your  guide  to 


352  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

trust,  great  care  must  be  taken  when  the  game  seems 
very  near.  When  you  finally  catch  sight  of  it  shoot 
without  delay  if  the  shot  is  a  clear  one  and  not  too 
far.  Otherwise  try  to  get  nearer.  The  white  man's 
tendency  is  to  shoot  at  very  first  sight  of  the  quarry, 
even  if  obscured  by  bushes.  Deciding  this  point 
is,  of  course,  one  of  the  most  important  parts  of 
deer-hunting,  and  it  depends  upon  coolness  and 
judgment.  Practically  it  is  a  matter  of  temperament, 
but  the  impulsive  man  loses  the  most  game.  As  a 
rule  aim  at  some  particular  part  of  the  animal  and 
not  at  the  whole  body.  If  the  deer  is  facing  or  partly 
facing  you,  shoot  it  through  the  neck,  so  that  the  bul- 
let will  range  back  through  vital  parts  or  break  the 
neck.  If  side-on,  strike  behind  the  shoulder,  so 
that  heart  or  lungs  will  be  pierced.  Hit  low  rather 
than  high,  or  the  vitals,  except  the  spine,  may  be 
be  missed. 

Says  Van  Dyke,  "The  first  thing  to  do  when  a 
deer  is  wounded  is  generally  to  do  nothing."  This  is 
Handling  a  of  course  in  case  another  good  shot  is  not 
Wounded  available,  for,  as  in  moose-hunting,  the 
Deer  cardinal  rule  is  to  shoot  as  long  as  the 

quarry  is  on  its  legs.  But  if  it  starts  to  run  after 
being  hit  do  not  follow,  for,  even  if  very  badly  hurt, 
its  fear  will  keep  it  running  until  beyond  finding  in 
case  of  pursual,  while-,  if  not  followed,  it  is  most 
likely  to  lie  down  shortly  and  become  so  stiff,  or 
lose  so  much  blood,  that  it  is  easily  found  and  put 
out  of  its  misery  after  several  hours,  or,  if  wounded 
at  night,  then  next  morning.  When  you  do  start 
on  its  trail  proceed  as  if  it  were  perfectly  sound, 
especially  if  the  trail  shows  a  decreasing  flow  of  blood. 


Deer-Hunting  353 

A  deer's  ears  are  much  keener  than  its  eyes,  and, 
if  the  huntsmen  keep  perfectly  motionless  upon  the 
appearance  of  a  deer,  it  will  frequently  pass  slowly 
without  taking  alarm,  unless  it  should  get  the  man's 
scent.  In  shooting  at  a  running  deer  be  careful  not 
to  fire  too  high,  as  the  deer  is  then  nearer  the  ground 
than  when  standing;  besides,  the  general  tendency 
of  novices  is  to  overshoot.  A  favourite  ruse  of  the 
old  hunter  was  to  take  a  stand  on  a  runway,  or 
regular  path  used  by  the  deer  going  to  water,  or  at 
the  drinking-place  itself,  or  again  at  a  "salt-lick," 
a  spot  upon  which  salt  has  been  heaped  to  attract 
the  deer,  which  are  very  fond  of  it.  The  sportsman- 
ship of  these  manoeuvres  is  extremely  questionable. 

When  a  deer  is  down  do  not  be  too  eager  to  finish 
him  with  the  knife ;  be  on  the  safe  side  and  give  him 
another  shot  in  heart,  brain,  or  spine. 

All  game  should  be  bled  as  soon  as  shot,  in  order 
to  make  it  keep  fresh  longer.  In  many  cases 
the  animal  will  have  bled  sufficiently  Packing 
through  the  wound,  but  if  this,  in  the  Deer 

hunter's  judgment,  has  not  taken  place,  make  a 
thrust  with  the  knife  into  the  breast  at  its  point 
and  give  the  knife  a  couple  of  turns.  A  moose  is 
usually  skinned  and  cut  up  at  once,  but,  unless  very 
far  from  camp,  the  carcass  of  a  deer  is  generally 
packed  thither,  either  single-handed,  balancing  the 
deer  over  the  shoulders  and  holding  by  the  feet,  or, 
better,  by  two  men  on  a  litter,  or  lashed  to  a  pole,  or, 
finally,  by  dragging  on  a  bush.  Before  starting  there 
is,  however,  one  imperative  duty,  that  of  paunching 
the  quarry,  to  avoid  early  putrefaction  and  to  lighten 

the  burden.     If  packed  single-handed  the  best  way 
23 


354  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

is  to  tie  legs  and  head  together  by  means  of  a  rope 
running  through  the  mouth,  lower  jaw  and  the  four 
gambrels.  The  loop  thus  formed  fits  well  over  the 
shoulders.  A  litter  for  two  men  is  quickly  made  of 
two  saplings  with  cross-pieces  every  two  feet  or  less. 
The  deer  should  be  securely  lashed  to  it.  Fore  and 
hind  legs  may  be  lashed  to  a  pole,  carried  on  the 
men's  shoulders.  A  small  animal  may  be  tied  to  the 
top  of  a  bush  and  dragged,  head  foremost,  to  camp 
over  snow  or  a  particularly  smooth  trail.  A  pack- 
horse  would  make  things  easy,  but  the  north  woods 
knows  them  not,  a  few  Western  districts  aside.  The 
brush  is  too  thick. 

In  case  there  is  no  time  to  skin  and  cut  up  the 
carcass  before  returning  to  camp,  hang  it  up  out  of 
reach  of  bears  on  a  pole  resting  between  the  limbs 
of  two  trees.  In  case  you  are  alone  and  the  deer  is 
heavy,  bend  down  a  sapling  that  takes  all  your 
strength  to  curve  over,  and  attach  the  head  to  the 
trimmed-off  top  by  means  of  a  withe,  a  stout  spruce 
root,  or  your  hunting-belt.  You  have  previously  to 
this  constructed  a  tripod  of  poles  forked  at  the  top, 
and  upon  this  you  now  proceed  to  hang  up  the 
carcass,  attaching  the  loop  to  the  forks.  The  spring 
of  the  sapling  will  help  raise  the  deer,  and,  by  raising 
first  one  pole  and  then  the  other,  a  sufficient  elevation 
can  be  attained.  This  is,  however,  by  no  means  so 
easy  to  do  as  it  reads,  and  a  duffer  had  best  content 
himself  with  burying  his  quarry  under  boughs,  with 
perhaps  a  tripod  of  poles  or  a  handkerchief  or  the 
blown-up  bladder  on  a  stick  over  it,  to  frighten  off' 
wild  marauders. 

If  hung  up  unskinned  a  smudge  is  dangerous  to  the 


Deer- Hunting  355 

hide  and  practically  useless,  unless  tended  constantly. 
It  is  my  practice  to  carry  with  me  three  or  four  yards 

of  cheesecloth  (which  has  been  dipped  in 

Fly-blows 
alum- water    at    home),   and    this   I   wrap 

closely  round  whatever  parts  of  the  animal  I  espe- 
cially wish  to  preserve.  If  a  round  of  venison  is  thus 
done  up,  preferably  with  a  needle  and  thread,  it  is 
safe  from  fly-blows,  which  are  the  bane  of  hunters. 
If  unskinned  a  head  may  also  be  kept  clean  in  like 
manner.  The  cheesecloth  takes  up  little  more  room 
than  a  napkin,  and  amply  repays  the  small  bulge  in  the 
coat-pocket.  The  usual  way  to  protect  skinned 
meat  is  to  form  as  quickly  as  possible  a  thin  layer 
of  hard  flesh  on  the  outside,  by  exposing  either  to  the 
sun  or  to  a  thirk  smudge  made  of  green  stuff,  rotten 
wood,  etc.  The  flesh  will  dry  and  harden  quickly 
in  the  sun,  but  should  be  protected  from  the  flies 
for  the  first  fifteen  minutes  or  more  by  the  waving 
of  a  branch.  The  smudge  method  is  better.  If  a 
smudge  is  left  burning  by  itself  great  care  should  be 
taken  to  prevent  its  bursting  into  flame  and  spreading, 
by  banking  it  with  earth  and  stones  and  clearing  a 
space  about  it  of  all  inflammable  material.  In  the 
thick  woods  do  not  risk  leaving  a  smudge  to  take 
care  of  itself;  in  many  places  it  is  even  against  the 
law. 

In  cutting  up  a  deer's  carcass  it  will  be  found  most 
convenient  to  hang  it  up;  by  the  head  is  best,  as  it 
will  drain  better,  skin  and  cut  better,  and  Skinning 
the  head  is  not  so  apt  to  become  soiled,  and  Cutting 
But  the  usual  way  is  to  hang  up  by  a  stick  ^P 

thrust  through  the  gambrel  joints  of  the  hind-legs.  If 
not  hung  up  the  carcass  should  be  so  placed  that  the 


356  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

head  is  higher  than  the  tail.  In  skinning,  the  rule, 
if  head  and  hide  are  regarded  as  of  any  value, 
is  to  make  all  incisions  with  the  knife  as  few 
and  inconspicuous  as  possible,  and  they  should 
therefore  be  confined  to  the  middle  line  of  the  under 
surface  of  the  body  and  the  inner  side  of  the  limbs. 
In  case  the  head  is  to  be  mounted  alone,  as  is  usual, 
the  first  cut  should  begin  where  the  neck  joins  the 
back  and  run  in  a  circle  downwards  round  the  neck 
to  the  point  of  the  breast  and  up  on  the  other  side. 
Be  sure  to  cut  far  enough  back,  as  the  taxidermists 
are  badly  handicapped  by  a  short  neck.  The  whole 
head  may  now  be  removed  to  be  skinned  later,  or 
the  body  may  be  skinned  first.  The  better  plan  is 
the  former,  as  it  makes  the  carcass  lighter,  but  this 
is,  of  course,  only  if  the  animal  lies  on  the  ground 
or  hangs  head-down.  The  hide  is  turned  back  and 
skinned  round  the  circular  incision  as  closely  to  the 
skull  as  possible,  and  the  skull  is  then  removed  from 
the  neck  by  means  of  the  knife  and  hatchet  or  axe. 
Fold  the  loose  neck-skin  together  as  closely  as  possi- 
ble and  cover  to  prevent  fly-blows.  The  carcass  is 
then  placed  on  its  back  (if  on  the  gorund)  and  a  slit 
made  up  the  middle  of  belly  and  breast  and  then 
continued  downwards  to  the  end  of  the  tail,  care 
being  taken  not  to  rupture  the  paunch,  which  would 
result  in  nastiness  and  stench.  Lateral  incisions 
should  then  be  made  beginning  at  the  central  cut  and 
extending  down  each  leg  to  the  hoof,  which  may  be 
left  on  if  desired,  in  fact  must  be  if  the  whole  animal 
is  to  be  mounted  or  the  skin  preserved  in  a  museum. 
In  such  a  case,  of  course,  the  head  must  not  be  severed 
from  the  body,  and  all  the  leg-bones  must  be  kept. 
The  skin  and  the  as  yet  unskinned  head  are  usually 


Deer- Hunting  357 

taken  to  camp,  where  the  head  is  prepared  at  leisure. 
This  is  done  as  follows:  Make  a  cut  through  the  skin 
along  the  cervical  vertebrae  to  a  point  on  a  line 
between  the  antlers;  then  cut  across  this  line  to  the 
antlers  on  each  side  and  round  each  antler,  keeping 
close  to  the  base.  (Another  method  is  to  stop  the  top 
cut  between  the  ears  and  then  make  a  cut  from  there 
diagonally  to  and  round  each  antler,  as  for  moose. 
(See  Figure  68.)  Skin  to  the  ears,  which  are  cut  off 
close  to  the  skull.  "Turn  the  skin  wrong-side-out 
over  the  head  and  proceed  until  you  come  to  the  eyes. 
Now  work  slowly  with  the  knife,  keeping  close  to  the 
edge  of  the  bony  orbit,  until  you  can  see,  through  a 
thin  membrane  under  your  knife-edge,  the  dark  por- 
tion of  the  eye.  You  may  now  cut  fearlessly  through 
this  membrane  and  expose  the  eyeball.  .  .  .  Skin 
down  to  the  edge  of  the  nose,  cut  through  the  cartilage 
close  to  the  bone,  and  cut  down  to  where  the  upper 
lip  joins  the  gum.  Cut  both  lips  away  from  the 
skull  close  to  the  bone  all  the  way  around  the  mouth, 
except  directly  in  front  of  the  incisors. ' '  (Smithsonian 
instructions,  by  Wm.  T.  Hornaday.)  The  skull  should 
now  be  scraped,  removing  all  flesh  and  soft  cartilage, 
and  the  brain  taken  out  through  the  vertebral  open- 
ing. The  skull  and  lower  jaw  may  then  be  dried  and 
tied  together  for  the  taxidermist.  In  skinning  the 
body  use  your  fist  or  hand  to  stretch  the  part  under 
operation,  and  be  sure  not  to  cut  through  the  skin. 
Always  skin  when  the  body  is  warm,  or  the  work 
will  be  doubled. 

As  soon  as  possible  after  being  taken  off  the  skin 
of  the  head  (and  body  too  if  to  be  preserved)  should 
be  thoroughly  rubbed  with  salt  (fine  is  better  than 


358  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

coarse) ,  a  quantity  of  which  should  be  in  every  hunting 
camp  for  this  express  purpose.  Roll  up  the  skin  and  let 
Preserving  it  lie  over  night.  Rub  in  more  salt  in  the 
Skins  morning  and  dry  out  without  the  aid  of  sun 

or  fire.  The  best  way  is  to  hang  up  high  in  the  shade. 
Keep  from  the  wet.  All  skins  to  be  mounted  should 
be  in  the  taxidermist's  hands  as  soon  as  possible. 

The  National  Museum  authorities  recommend 
immersing  skins  in  a  solution  of  salt  and  alum  (pro- 
For  Muse-  portion:  to  i  gallon  water,  i  pint  alum 
urns  and  i  quart  salt)  brought  to  a  boil  and 

cooled  to  milk- warmth.  This  is  practically  impos- 
sible in  the  woods,  unless  the  expedition  has  been 
fitted  out  for  museum  purposes,  and  for  ordinary 
mounting  is  unnecessary. 

The  first  thing  to  do  in  cutting  up  the  carcass  is 
to  free  the  body  from  all  the  internal  organs.  Cut  free 

the  diaphragm  from  both  sides  and  roll 
Butchering 

out    the    viscera,   aiding  with   the   knife 

where  necessary.  The  sternum  is  then  cut  through 
with  the  axe  and  the  chest  organs  pulled  out  with  the 
hands,  the  knife  aiding.  The  pelvis  is  then  divided 
with  the  axe,  the  four  quarters  removed,  and  the 
meat  is  ready  for  transportation. 

The  classic  authority  on  deer-hunting  is  The 
Still-hunter,  by  Theodore  S.  Van  Dyke,  which  should 
Biblio-  be  the  first  book  bought  by  the  novice, 
graphy  and  which  will  be  found  to  contain  about 
all  that  has  been  written  on  the  subject  before  or 
since  its  publication,  and  has  been  called  by  a  com- 
petent English  writer  "the  best  book  ever  written 
by  an  American."  There  is  no  end  to  the  other  books 


Deer- Hunting  359 

on  deer-hunting,  but  the  reader  may  begin  additions 
to  his  library  with  The  Deer  Family,  by  T.  Roosevelt, 
T.  S.  Van  Dyke,  and  others.  An  excellent  descriptive 
article  on  deer  is  that  by  E.  Thompson  Seton  in 
Scribner's  Magazine  for  September,  1906. 

MEASURING    RULES 

For  large  animal,  measure: 

Height   at  shoulder,    from    middle    (not    point)    of 
hoof,  holding  leg  as  if  it  were  supporting 
body, to  top  of  shoulder  (skin,  not  hair)  in 
a  straight  line. 

Length  of  Head  and  Body  from  root  of  tail  to  end 
of  nose;  tail  from  base  to  end  of  vertebrae. 

Girth  directly  behind  forelegs. 

Depth  of  Body,  from  top  of  shoulders  in  a  straight 
(not  curved)  line  to  lowest  point  of  breast  directly 
behind  forelegs. 

Circumference  of  neck  half  way  between  ears  and 
shoulders,  close  to  skin. 

Length  on  Outer  Curve,  starting  tape  at  base  of 
horn  (lowest  point)  and  following  curves  Antlers 
to  the  tip. 

Greatest  spread  from  outside  to  outside  where  the 
antlers  spread  widest. 

Distance  between  two  tips  farthest  apart. 

Circumference  at  base  of  antler  round  largest 
diameter. 

Width  of  Palmation  at  widest  part.  A  point  must 
be  long  enough  to  hang  something  on. 

Weight  must  be  stated  as  either  with  entire  skull 
or  only  skull-piece. 

(The  above  rules  are  paraphrased  from  Hornaday's 
American  Natural  History.) 


CHAPTER   XVI 

CARIBOU-HUNTING 

THIS  American  cousin  of  the  north-European 
reindeer  has  a  range  extending  from  Maine  and  New- 
foundland northward  to  Hudson  Bay  and  then 
generally  north-westward  to  the  Pacific,  where  it  is 
found  from  British  Columbia  northward  into  Alaska. 
There  are  two  general  varieties,  the  Woodland 
(Rangifer  caribou)  and  the  Barren-Ground  or  Artie 
(Rangifer  arcticus),  these  names  describing  their 
habitats;  both  are  divided  into  several  subspecies 
about  which  the  experts  are  yet  quarrelling.  The 
woodland  animal  is  somewhat  heavier,  weighing 
from  250  to  400  pounds.  Its  fine  large  antlers  are 
shorter  in  the  main  beam  than  those  of  the  barren- 
ground  species,  but  are  more  palmated,  and,  as  Mr. 
Hornaday  remarks,  have  "a  treetop  appearance," 
those  of  the  barren-ground  caribou  being  slimmer 
and  having  an  " arm-chair  appearance."  The  wood- 
land kind  is  warier  than  the  other,  but  both  are 
dull  beasts  compared  with  moose  or  deer.  The  New- 
foundland species  (R.  terraenovae)  is  much  lighter  in 
colour  than  the  continental  woodland  caribou.  A 
good- sized  caribou  stands  about  four  feet  high  at  the 
shoulders.  The  general  colour  is  dark  grey  with 
white  under-parts,  changing  to  whitish  in  winter; 
some  of  the  Western  varieties  have  blackish  heads. 

360 


Caribou- Hunting  361 

The  hoofs  are  very  large  and  loosely  jointed,  so  that 
they  spread  and  form  veritable  snowshoes,  enabling 
the  caribou  to  travel  easily  in  snow  that  would  render 
other  deer  quite  helpless.  These  hoofs  clack  as  the 
animal  moves  about.  The  caribou  mates  in  the 
early  autumn,  at  which  season  it  is  lawful  to  kill  it 
— a  very  unwise  privilege,  which  should  be  legally 
withdrawn,  as  in  the  case  of  all  other  Cervidce. 

Incredible  tales  are  told  of  the  tameness  of  caribou, 
and,  after  reading  many  of  the  stories  of  Selous  and 
other  experienced  caribou-hunters,  those  of  Methods  of 
us  who  have  done  little  or  none  of  it  wonder  Hunting 
what  pleasure  a  sportsman  can  take  in  such  a  chase. 
As  Mr.  Elliot,  in  The  Deer  Family,  aptly  says,  after 
describing  the  positions  taken  up  in  still-hunting, 
11  pursuit  (if  it  can  be  so  called)  of  this  deer  at  such 
times  and  in  such  places  cannot  be  considered  either 
a  pleasure  or  within  the  true  meaning  of  sportsman- 
ship. If  the  caribou  should  wander  that  way, 
a  point-blank  shot  at  a  few  paces  is  af- 
forded, requiring  about  as  much  skill  to  bring  down 
the  quarry  as  it  would  to  shoot  a  cow  in  a  barnyard. " 
Mr.  Selous  gives  instances  of  caribou  passing  within 
a  few  feet  of  him  and  looking  straight  at  him  .without 
taking  alarm.  One  legal  but  disgraceful  manner  of 
hunting  them  in  Newfoundland  is  to  take  advantage 
of  their  annual  migration  from  the  northern  to  the 
southern  part  of  the  island,  which,  since  the  railway 
traverses  the  whole  colony  from  east  to  west,  must 
cross  the  rails.  The  huntsmen  therefore  post  them- 
selves near  any  of  the  stations  in  the  caribou  sections, 
make  themselves  comfortable,  and  shoot  down  what- 
ever animals  happen  to  come  that  way.  The  more 


362  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

sportsmanlike  method  is  stalking.  Man  and  guide 
go  out  upon  the  barrens,  scan  the  territory  far  and 
near  with  a  powerful  glass,  and,  when  a  herd  has  been 
discovered,  approach  it  near  enough  to  pick  out 
any  stag  that  appears  to  have  antlers  worth  having. 
The  stag  is  then  regularly  stalked  until  the  stalker 
is  within  range,  taking  advantage  of  any  kind  of 
cover  offered,  and,  of  course,  being  careful  to  advance 
against  or  across  the  wind. 

The  outfit  for  caribou-hunting  need  not  differ  much 
from  that  used  for  other  deer.  Mr.  Selous  uses  small- 
bore rifles,  but  he  is  evidently  an  extra-good  shot. 

Those  intending  to  shoot  caribou,  whether  in 
Newfoundland  or  the  North-west,  should  unfailingly 
Biblio-  possess  Mr.  Selous' s  late  book,  Hunting 
graphy  Trips  in  North  America.  Other  good  works 
on  the  subject  are  Mr.  Elliot's  chapter  in  The  Deer 
Family,  contained  in  the  American  Sportsman's 
Library,  and  Mr.  Seton's  article  in  Scribner's  Maga- 
zine for  April,  1906. 


CHAPTER  XVII 

BIG  GAME    OF    THE    NORTH-WEST ELK,    ANTELOPE, 

MOUNTAIN    SHEEP,    MOUNTAIN   GOAT, 
GRIZZLY    BEAR,    COUGAR. 

SINCE  the  animals  named  in  this  chapter  are  not 
found  in  the  north-eastern  portion  of  the  continent 
within  the  confines  of  what  is  usually  called  the 
north  woods,  the  following  brief  notices  of  them, 
together  with  references  to  the  best  books  treating 
of  them,  will  be  sufficient  for  the  purposes  of  this 
manual. 

THE  ELK 

The  Wapiti,  or  Round-horned  Elk  (Cervus  cana- 
densis)  is  unquestionably  the  largest  round-horned 
deer  in  the  world,  as  well  as  the  most  stately  of  all 
the  deer  family.  Says  Theodore  Roosevelt  (The 
Deer  Family] :  "  A  full-grown  bull  is  as  big  as  a  steer. 
The  antlers  are  the  most  magnificent  trophy  yielded 
by  any  game  animal  of  America,  save  the  giant 
Alaskan  moose.  When  full-grown  they  are  normally 
of  twelve  tines;  .  .  .  Antlers  over  fifty  inches  in 
length  are  large;  if  over  sixty,  they  are  gigantic,'* 
(The  record  is  67^.)  Though  not  so  long  since  native 
to  the  whole  northern  part  of  the  United  States  from 
the  Pacific  to  the  Appalachian  mountain  system,  and 
lingering  in  Pennsylvania  as  late  as  the  middle  of  the 

363 


364  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

nineteenth  century,  the  elk  has  decreased  in  numbers 
nearly  as  fast  as  the  now  almost  extinct  bison;  and 
its  range  is  at  present  restricted  to  Colorado,  Wyo- 
ming, Idaho,  Montana,  Alberta,  and  portions  of  North 
Dakota,  Minnesota,  and  Manitoba.  On  the  Pacific 
coast  a  separate  variety  exists.  At  present  the  elk 
"reaches  its  highest  physical  development  on  the 
backbone  of  the  continent,  between  north-western 
Wyoming  and  southern  Colorado."  (Hornaday.) 
The  weight  of  a  large  bull  elk  is  about  700  pounds. 
The  height  at  the  shoulders  is  about  56 \  inches,  and 
the  length  of  head,  body,  and  tail  about  86J  inches. 
Mr.  Hornaday  gives  a  convenient  rule  for  estimating 
the  weight  of  large  members  of  the  deer  tribe  that 
cannot  be  placed  on  the  scales.  It  is  to  ascertain 
the  dressed  weight  in  pounds,  add  to  it  five  ciphers, 
and  divide  by  78,612.  The  result  will  be  the  live 
weight  of  the  animal.  Elk-hunting  to-day  means  an 
elaborate  pack-outfit  and  is  very  expensive.  Neither 
is  the  sport  generally  to  be  compared  with  the  chase 
of  most  other  big  game,  on  account  of  its  habit  of 
herding  and  the  fits  of  stupid  panic  that  are  apt  to 
affect  even  whole  herds,  during  which  they  seem 
unable  to  escape  and  can  be  shot  down  like  tame 
sheep.  This  is,  of  course,  by  no  means  always  the 
case.  Mr.  Roosevelt  considers  the  venison  of  the 
wapiti  to  be  the  best  of  all  wild  game. 

The  Deer  Family,  by  T.  Roosevelt,  in  the  American 
Sportsman's  Library;  Hunting,  in  Scribner's  Out  of 
Biblio-  Door  Library;  The  Big  Game  of  North 
graphy  America,  edited  by  G.  O.  Shields. 

In  regard  to  packing  and  pack-trains  the  reader 
should  consult  Camp  and  Trail,  by  S.  E.  White. 


Big  Game  of  the  North-West      365 

THE  PRONG-HORN  ANTELOPE 

The  Prong-horn  Antelope  (Antilocapra  americana) 
is  found  on  the  Pacific  slope  and  along  the  Rocky 
Mountain  regions  from  Mexico  to  Assiniboia.  In 
the  northern  United  States  it  is  found  mostly  in 
Montana  and  Wyoming.  No  better  guide  to  the 
sport  of  stalking  antelope  can  be  had  than  is  con- 
tained in  Mr.  Roosevelt's  The  Deer  Family,  while 
E.  Thompson  Seton  has  described  the  animal  very 
thoroughly  in  Scribner's  Magazine  for  July,  1906. 

THE  MOUNTAIN  SHEEP 

There  are  six  varieties  of  Mountain  Sheep  in  Amer- 
ica, inhabiting  nearly  the  whole  Rocky  Mountain 
system  from  Mexico  to  and  including  Alaska,  and 
California,  the  longest  known  and  most  celebrated 
being  the  Bighorn  Sheep  (Ovis  canadensis).  Presi- 
dent Roosevelt  considers  the  chase  of  the  Bighorn 
"the  manliest  of  all  our  sports,"  because  it  "means 
heart-breaking  fatigue  for  any  but  the  strongest  and 
hardiest,"  for  it  must  be  sought  in  its  mountain 
fastnesses,  where  it  lives  and  grows  fat  even  in 
winter,  scorning  even  then  to  follow  the  elk  and  other 
animals  to  lower  altitudes.  The  general  colour  of  the 
bighorn  "is  grey-brown,  with  a  large  white  or  cream- 
yellow  patch  on  the  hind  quarters,  completely  sur- 
rounding the  tail.  ...  A  large  ram  .  .  .  stood  40 
inches  high  at  the  shoulders,  was  58  inches  in  length 
from  end  of  nose  to  root  of  tail;  its  tail  was  3  inches 
long,  and  its  weight  was  about  300  pounds."  (Horn- 
aday.)  The  horns  are  massive  and  curved,  the  largest 
known  measurements  being  18^  inches  in  circum- 
ference, and  52  J  inches  in  length  on  the  curve. 


366  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

It  will  be  seen  by  Mr.  Roosevelt's  hint  that  none 
but  the  soundest  of  limb  and  lung  should  attempt 
the  hunt  of  the  bighorn.  A  .3o-caliber  rifle  is  big 
enough  and  a  binocular  is  a  necessity. 

Consult  G.  O.  Shields's  paper  in  The  Big  Game 
of  North  America. 

THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAIN  GOAT 

The  chase  of  this  animal  (Ore  amnos  montanus) 
closely  resembles  that  of  the  Mountain  Sheep.  No 
one  should  start  on  an  expedition  after  this  animal 
without  first  reading  Mr.  W.  T.  Hornaday's  Camp- 
Fires  in  the  Canadian  Rockies,  as  he  is  par  excellence 
the  authority  on  the  subject.  The  Big  Game  of  North 
America  may  also  be  consulted  with  profit. 

THE  GRIZZLY  BEAR 

The  famous  Grizzly  (Ursus  horribilis),  fiercest  of 
all  the  bear  family,  is  now,  according  to  Mr.  Horna- 
day,  a  rare  animal  in  the  United  States  except  in  the 
Yellowstone  Park  and  the  Clearwater  Mountains  of 
Idaho,  "and  so  difficult  to  find  that  it  is  almost 
useless  to  seek  it  this  side  of  British  Columbia." 
Thence  northwards  into  Alaska  he  still  rules  the 
wilderness,  all  other  animals  giving  him  a  wide  berth. 

His  name  comes  from  the  silvery  grey  colour  with 
which  his  brown  coat  is  tipped,  which  has  also  earned 
him  the  more  popular  cognomen  "silver-tip."  The 
size  and  weight  of  most  bears  are  exaggerated, 
and  a  big  one  will  hardly  weigh  over  800  pounds, 
though  heavier  individuals  have  been  killed,  1150 
pounds  being  the  limit. 

The  grizzly  has  always  enjoyed  a  huge  reputation 


Big  Game  of  the  North- West      367 

for  aggressiveness,  which,  in  view  of  the  assured 
facts  that  he  can  kill  a  steer  and  even  attacks  the 
moose,  seems  fairly  well  established.  Towards  man, 
however,  his  conduct  has  suffered  a  change  since  the 
introduction  of  the  high-power  repeating  rifle,  against 
which  he  has  little  show  for  his  life.  Unless  cornered 
he  will  always  take  the  back  track  from  a  man.  A 
.45  calibre  or  an  1895  .405  is  the  best  medicine  for 
him.  The  sport  is  dangerous  enough,  however,  as 
OldEphraim  is  the  most  tenacious  of  life  of  all  animals 
on  this  continent,  and  will  "absorb"  a  lot  of  lead 
without  flinching. 

Read  Roosevelt's  The  Wilderness  Hunter;  The 
Big  Game  of  North  America;  Hornaday's  Camp- 
Fires  in  the  Canadian  Rockies;  vol.  i.  Biblio- 
of  C.  Phillipps-Wolley's  Big  Game  Shooting,  graphy 
in  the  Badminton  Library. 

THE  COUGAR 

The  Cougar  or  Puma  (Felis  concolor),  also  called 
Mountain -lion,  Panther,  Painter,  Indian  Devil,  etc., 
was  once  common  in  northern  New  England,  New 
York,  and  the  Maritime  Provinces,  but  has  receded 
before  the  march  of  civilisation,  and  is  now  found  only 
in  the  great  mountain  ranges  of  the  West,  in  Wyoming 
and  Montana,  Florida,  British  Columbia,  and  very 
rarely  in  the  Adirondacks.  In  spite  of  the  hair- 
raising  tales  with  which  the  old  Maine  pioneers  loved 
to  thrill  their  youthful  hearers  (and  many  a  "creep" 
have  I  taken  to  bed  with  me  on  account  of  them!) 
cougars  will  nearly  always  run  even  from  a  small 
dog,  and  the  method  of  hunting  them  is  to  chase  and 
tree  them  by  means  of  dogs,  and  then  to  drop  them 


368  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

from  their  perch  with  a  small-calibre  bullet.  It  is 
the  best  climber  of  the  cat  family,  which  accounts  for 
its  predilection  to  "take  to  the  tall  timber"  when 
chased.  Eight  feet  is  about  the  limit  of  length  of  a 
cougar's  body  and  tail,  and  a  big  one  might  weigh 
225  pounds.  Its  colour  is  brownish  grey. 

President  Roosevelt's  The  Wilderness  Hunter  will 
make  the  reader  better  acquainted  with  this  big 
cat,  which  is  the  only  long-tailed  specimen  of  its 
family  occurring  north  of  the  Mexican  border-regions. 

G.  B.  Grinnell's  American  Big  Game  in  its  Haunts 
may  be  recommended  to  those  interested  in  any  kind 
General  °f  large  American  game.  Just  out  is 
Biblio-  Bison,  Musk-ox,  Sheep  and  Goat  Family,  in 
graphy  the  American  Sportsman's  Library.  The 
several  articles  by  Mr.  E.  T.  Seton  mentioned  in  this 
chapter  will  shortly  appear  in  book  form  (title  not 
yet  chosen),  and  should  form  a  valuable  work. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

GAME    BIRDS 

NOBODY  goes  into  the  north  woods  camping  with 
the  especial  purpose  of  bird-shooting  according  to 
the  methods  of  the  sporting  guild.  Nevertheless 
there  are  many  who  frequent  hostelries  on  the  out- 
skirts of  the  wilderness,  where  these,  as  well  as  native 
methods,  may  be  employed;  for  which  reason  it  seems 
proper  to  include  in  this  manual  a  short  account  of 
the  game  birds  likely  to  be  met  with  in  our  chosen 
territory,  with  some  hints  as  to  equipment. 

As  we  take  anything  that  comes  to  us,  an  all- 
round  gun  is  what  is  wanted,  and  that  is  a  i2-gauge, 
30 -inch -barrel,  hammerless  ejector,  costing  as  much 
as  you  can  afford.  If  you  are  sure  of  seeing  nothing 
larger  than  grouse,  28-inch  barrels  will  be  long 
enough.  I  have  even  shot  ducks,  and  many  of  them, 
with  a  light  2 6 -inch -barrel  gun,  sweet  to  carry  and 
handle.  Have  a  case  for  it,  and  a  jointed  cleaning- 
rod  and  good  oil.  In  regard  to  shooting  consult 
the  chapter  on  Sporting  Firearms. 

The  north  woods  camper  will  hardly  ever  take 
a  dog  with  him,  unless  going  to  a  place  where  there 
is  good  shooting  in  fairly  open  country.  If  he  does, 
he  has  his  choice  between  a  setter  and  a  pointer,  both 
grand  dogs,  with  perfect  noses  for  pointing  their  game. 
For  the  north  country  I  prefer  a  setter,  for,  while  the 
24  369 


370  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

pointer  stands  hot  weather  a  little  better  and  has  no 
shaggy  coat  to  catch  the  burs,  hot  weather  does  not 
bother  us  much  in  the  north,  and  the  setter's  thick 
coat  protects  him  from  the  cruel  wilderness  thorns 
and  snags  that  hurt  the  pointer  grievously.  Which- 
ever breed  is  chosen,  be  sure  of  one  thing — that  the 
dog  is  not  a  wide  ranger;  or  you  will  be  constantly 
losing  him  in  the  brush,  with  the  annoying  feeling 
that  things  are  happening  and  you  are  not  "in  it." 
The  dog  should  wear  a  bell  on  his  collar  to  make 
known  his  whereabouts  at  all  times,  and  he  should 
be  trained  to  obey  his  master's  whistle  and  voice. 
Concerning  dogs,  consult  The  Sporting  Dog,  in  the 
American  Sportsman's  Library,  and  Mr.  S.  T.  Ham- 
mond's Training  vs.  Breaking. 

THE  RUFFED  GROUSE 

This  magnificent  grouse  (Bonasa  umbellus)  is  the 
game  bird  of  the  north  woods,  with  beautifully 
marked  brown,  black,  and  grey  plumage,  the  dis- 
tinctive features  being  the  broad  black  band  across 
the  tail  and  the  black  ruff  round  the  neck,  which  is 
elevated  when  the  bird  struts  or  "drums."  This 
sound  is  a  very  characteristic  one  and  is  made  by  the 
bird's  wings  beating  the  air  and  not,  as  formerly 
thought,  a  hollow  log.  Why  the  bird  drums  is  un- 
certain; it  is  very  likely  for  the  purpose  of  generally 
"showing  his  independence"  and  posing  for  his  mate. 
It  is  certain  that  the  drumming  is  not  confined  to 
the  mating  season  nor  to  any  time  of  day,  for  as  I 
write  these  lines,  at  half  past  ten  o'clock  of  an  October 
evening,  I  can  hear  an  old  cock  drumming  from  time 
to  time  across  the  bay  from  my  cabin.  The  ruffed 


Game  Birds  371 

grouse,  or  "partridge/*  as  it  is  universally  called  in 
New  England  and  Canada  (sometimes  "birch- 
partridge,"  to  distinguish  it  from  the  "spruce- 
partridge"  or  Canada  grouse),  is  non-migratory,  and 
lays  about  a  dozen  eggs  in  a  nest  on  the  ground  in  the 
spring.  It  lives  in  thick  timber,  often  venturing  into 
woodland  roads  and  old  "slashings"  (where  the  tim- 
ber has  been  cut  off) ,  but  almost  never  into  the  fields. 
In  the  early  morning  it  may  be  seen  in  the  trees, 
where  it  usually  roosts;  later  it  feeds  on  the 
ground,  often  taking  to  the  trees  when  startled. 
In  dry  weather  it  may  often  be  found  in  swamps 
and  other  moist  places,  while  in  wet  weather  it  seems 
to  keep  rather  to  the  high  ground.  It  is  always  a 
question  just  where  to  seek  it.  The  local  authorities 
should  be  consulted.  Meanwhile  the  forest  tourist 
will  mostly  run  upon  it  in  the  old  logging-roads. 

There  are  three  reasons  why  the  ruffed  grouse 
is  the  hardest  bird  we  have  to  kill  on  the  wing.  In 
the  first  place  it  gets  up  with  a  tremendous  commotion 
and  goes  at  a  furious  pace;  secondly,  it  never  loses 
an  instant's  time  in  putting  a  tree  or  other  cover 
between  itself  and  its  enemy;  and,  thirdly,  more  than 
half  the  time  it  will  not  stand,  but  will  run  off  some- 
times twenty  or  thirty  yards  before  stopping.  This 
last  characteristic  is  particularly  annoying  when 
shooting  over  dogs,  which  are  often  entirely  non- 
plussed at  such  conduct;  in  fact  dogs  are  frequently 
useless  in  heavy  cover.  A  cocker  spaniel,  which 
flushes  the  birds  and  barks  as  they  rise,  is  sometimes 
preferred.  To  me  shooting  the  ruffed  grouse  is  the 
acme  of  American  birding,  for  the  reason  that  it 
represents  the  exact  antithesis  of  European  sport 
over  dogs  or  even  in  the  drives,  though  the  shots 


372  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

themselves  are  often  very  difficult  during  the  latter. 
A  half-dozen  birds  flushed  from  cover  and  shot  fairly 
on  the  wing  is  a  big  bag  in  the  north  woods,  and  it  is 
likely  that  not  more  than  two  of  them  will  be  what 
may  be  called  easy  shots.  It  has  to  be  mighty  quick, 
sometimes  snap  work.  One  of  the  most  fascinating 
forms  of  shooting  is  still-hunting  the  " partridge" 
without  a  dog,  though  it  is  very  tiresome  if  you  hunt 
over  birdless  territory.  The  row  the  bird  makes 
when  it  gets  up  suddenly  is  most  disconcerting,  and 
you  have  to  cover  it  in  a  jiffy,  or  all  is  over.  If  you 
fire  and  miss  it  may  fly  clean  out  of  the  county,  but 
if  merely  flushed  it  may  be  found  again  if  followed 
up  without  delay.  No.  8  or  7  shot  may  be  used;  the 
latter  is  better  when  the  birds  are  strong. 

Without  doubt  most  grouse  shot  by  camping 
parties  are  slaughtered  on  the  ground  or  in  trees.  With 
this  method  no  fault  can  be  found  so  long  as  it  is  not 
called  sport,  but  solely  providing  for  the  pot.  The 
man  who  deliberately  gives  up  all  hope  of  broiled 
grouse  in  the  woods  merely  because  of  the  traditions 
of  his  open-country,  sporting-club  past,  may  be  a 
moral  hero,  but  whether  he  is  wise  or  not  is  a  question. 

One  form  of  ground  and  tree  shooting  is  admitted 
by  many  to  possess  at  least  the  elements  of  sports- 
manship, namely,  using  a  .22-calibre  rifle. 

CANADA  GROUSE 

This  bird  (Dendragapus  canadensis),  usually  called 
"  spruce-partridge "  from  the  fact  that  it  spoils  the 
flavour  of  its  flesh  by  a  diet  of  conifer  buds,  is  darker 
than  its  ruffed  cousin,  black  being  the  ground  tint  of 
its  plumage,  picked  out  with  white.  A  brilliant  red 


Game  Birds  373 

ring  nearly  encircles  its  eye.  Another  name  is  often 
given  it,  namely,  "  fool-hen, "  on  account  of  its  ex- 
traordinary indifference  to  danger.  The  curiosity  of 
these  birds  seems  to  get  the  better  of  their  discretion. 
Last  summer  I  reached  up  and  captured  one  in  a  trout 
landing-net.  There  are  two  good  reasons  for  letting 
them  alone.  First,  they  are  bad  eating;  and,  sec- 
ondly, the  laws  of  most  provinces  protect  them. 

WILLOW  GROUSE 

This  is  a  ptarmigan  (Lagopus  lagopus)  found  mostly, 
so  far  as  our  tourists  are  concerned,  in  Newfoundland. 
It  is  smaller  than  the  other  grouse,  and  is  mottled 
grey  and  brown  in  summer  and  white  in  winter. 
Where  not  much  pursued  it  is  very  tame,  but  affords 
good  sport  in  the  more  hunted  regions. 

PARTRIDGE     ("  QUAIL  ") 

The  partridge,  " Bob-white"  (Colinus  virginianus) 
or,  in  New  England  parlance,  the  "  quail/'  is  as  good 
as  non-existent  in  the  north  woods,  though  found 
along  its  southern  line. 

WOODCOCK 

Of  the  numerous  shore-birds,  so  called,  that  fine, 
delicious  and  mysterious  specimen  the  woodcock 
(Philohela  minor)  is  the  only  one  with  which  we  shall 
be  likely  to  have  much  to  do.  It  lives  in  moist  regions, 
where  it  bores  into  the  soft  soil  with  its  long  bill  for 
worms  and  grubs.  Its  big  eyes  and  long  legs  and  bill 
are  familiar  to  all  sportsmen,  but  it  is  curious  that 
many  country  people  who  have  seen  it  flit  by  all  their 
lives  are  at  a  loss  to  name  it  when  laid  before  them. 


374  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Only  last  autumn  a  friend  of  mine  got  into  a  perfect 
woodcock  paradise,  but  when  he  called  at  a  neigh- 
bouring farmhouse  to  get  a  drink  of  milk,  the  farmer, 
an  old  settler,  answered,  upon  being  asked  if  there 
were  woodcock  near  by  "Oh,  yes,  lots  of  'em  in  the 
orchard,"  meaning  woodpeckers.  When  he  was  shown 
the  bag,  shot  mostly  within  a  mile  of  his  house,  he  said 
he  'd  "never  seen  them  birds  before."  Mr.  Hunting- 
ton  tells  of  a  similar  experience  in  Our  Feathered 
Game.  It  is  characteristic  of  Philohela's  mysterious 
ways.  Small  chance  of  his  being  potted  on  the  ground. 
You  will  get  him  only  if  you  go  out  after  him,  and  with 
a  dog.  He  will  be  found  in  pretty  close  cover  and  you 
have  to  shoot  quickly.  No.  9  shot  is  right,  or  No.  8 
towards  the  end  of  the  season. 

An  occasional  snipe  may  be  seen  in  the  north  woods, 
as  well  as  plovers  and  especially  sandpipers,  but  the 
camper  will  not  go  far  out  of  his  way  for  these,  as  they 
are  not  in  sufficient  abundance.  Shore-birds  are, 
generally  speaking,  more  easily  found  in  settled 
districts  along  the  sea. 

DUCKS 

The  tourist  and  big  game  hunter  will  often  get  a 
shot  at  a  duck  by  concealing  himself  towards  evening 
in  a  built  or  improvised  "blind"  on  the  shore  of  some 
lake,  pond,  or  cove  frequented  by  the  birds.  In  some 
districts,  not  really  in  the  wilderness,  duck-hunting 
from  proper  blinds  is  practised.  A  dozen  or  more 
decoys  of  the  breeds  expected  are  distributed  in 
front  of  the  blinds  or  sink-boats,  and  some  kind  of 
a  retriever,  usually  a  more  or  less  pure-bred  spaniel, 
is  an  important  ally.  The  black  duck  (Anas  obscurd) 


Game  Birds 


375 


of  the  north  country  is  perhaps  the  wariest  of  his  tribe, 
and  tough  too  (until  well  cooked),  for  which  reason 
the  natives  often  use  No.  2  shot,  though  No.  4  is  the 
usual  duck  size.  Farther  west  the  delicious  mallard 
can  be  had  in  great  numbers,  as  well  as  many  other 
varieties. 

GEESE 

It  is  a  gala  day  when  chance  brings  the  camper  face 
to  gun  with  a  fat  Canada  goose  (Branta  canadensis) , 
and  he  wants  No.  BB  shot  in  his  cartridges.  It  is  in 
the  far  north  that  geese  are  mostly  met  with,  except 
in  the  west. 

There  are  legions  of  good  books  on  game-bird 
shooting.  About  as  good  as  any  is  Our  Feathered 
Game,  by  D.  W.  Huntington,  which  has  Biblio- 
the  merit  of  being  very  comprehensive  graphy 
and  up-to-date  (1904)  Other  fine  volumes  are  The 
Water-fowl  Family,  in  the  American  Sportsman's 
Library ;  Upland  Game  Birds  in  the  same  library. 


CHAPTER  XIX 

TRAPPING 

IT  is  taken  for  granted  that  my  readers  will  not  se- 
riously take  up  the  profession  of  trapping,  but  perhaps 
seek  to  increase  the  delights  of  forest  life  by  setting 
a  few  traps  while  after  moose  or  other  late  autumn 
game.  For  these  the  hints  here  given  will  suffice, 
while  those  who  desire  to  go  deeper  into  the  art  of 
trapping  will  do  well  to  consult  some  of  the  author- 
ities mentioned  at  the  close  of  this  chapter.  For 
that  matter,  a  few  good  books  on  trapping  are  never 
amiss  in  the  sportsman's  library. 

Among  the  trapper's  game  may  be  mentioned  such 
valuable  fur-bearing  animals  as  the  otter,  marten, 
p  ,  mink,  and  fisher,  as  well  as  the  black  bear, 

the  lynx,  wildcat,  raccoon,  fox,  skunk, 
and  muskrat.  The  very  valuable  beaver  is  properly 
protected  in  most  of  the  territory  included  in  the 
north  woods,  though  in  some  districts  an  open  season 
is  soon  to  be  allowed.  Snaring  game-birds  is  every- 
where prohibited.  Otter,  wildcat,  muskrat,  and  mink 
are  found  throughout  the  north,  while  the  marten  and 
fisher  are  less  universal.  The  wolverine  is  not  much 
valued  for  its  fur,  but  it  is  a  public  benefit  to  destroy 
it,  on  account  of  its  predatory  habits.  The  little 
weasel,  which  becomes  the  beautiful  and  popular 

376 


Trapping  377 

ermine  in  winter,  is  also  legitimate  game,  though 
its  small  size  makes  it  hardly  worth  while,  unless 
very  abundant.  Otter  and  foxes  are  not  generally 
protected. 

Fur-bearing  animals,  owing  to  persistent  trapping, 
largely  by  unscientific,  short-sighted  methods,  are 
constantly  growing  rarer,  with  the  result 
that  their  pelts  steadily  increase  in  value. 
As  a  general  rule  the  colder  the  season  the  better  the 
fur,  winter  skins  commanding  the  highest  prices. 
The  Indian  rule  says,  "When  leaves  fall  fur  good," 
but  prime  condition  hardly  comes  before  the  snow 
falls  freely.  Canada  and  the  portions  of  the  States 
on  the  Canadian  border  naturally  furnish  the  best  fur. 
Aside  from  the  black  (silver)  and  blue  foxes,  which 
are  mostly  captured  in  the  far  north,  the  most  valu- 
able fur  of  the  north  woods  is  that  of  the  otter,  the 
marten,  the  mink,  the  fisher,  and  the  beaver.  Other 
valuable  pelts  are  those  of  the  cougar,  the  Canada 
lynx,  and  the  black  bear  when  in  prime  condition. 
A  great  deal  of  money  is  made  by  trapping  the  lesser 
fur-bearers,  such  as  the  skunk,  the  raccoon;  the 
common  foxes,  the  weasel,  the  wildcat,  and  above  all 
the  lowly  muskrat,  numbers  making  good  the  lack 
of  quality.  Prices  obtained  by  trappers  themselves 
from  the  dealers  may  be  gathered  from  the  following 
list,  which  were  current  last  winter  in  a  large  Eastern 
city:  Otter  $22,  marten  $20,  beaver  $10,  mink  $8, 
fisher  $8,  lynx  $7,  timber  wolf  $4.50,  wolverine  $6, 
red  fox  $3.50,  skunk  $2.50,  wildcat  $1.25,  ermine  $i, 
muskrat  $  .20.  These  prices  are  rather  high. 

A  prime,  large  grizzly  bear  skin  brings  $25  and  that 
of  a  black  bear  in  perfect  condition  $20.     It  must, 


3  78  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

however,  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  above  prices  were 
paid  only  for  the  very  best  quality  and  largest  size 
of  skins  captured  in  the  dead  of  winter  in  Canada 
and  the  most  northern  United  States.  Should  a 
skin  be  trapped  farther  south,  or  be  a  trifle  smaller, 
or  not  absolutely  prime  in  quality,  or,  finally,  have 
shot-holes  in  it,  its  market  value  sinks  alarmingly, 
so  that  there  are  three  to  five  prices  for  the  skins  of 
the  same  species  of  animal.  In  selling  it  is  best  to 
send  one's  pelts  either  to  a  well-known  fur-dealing 
firm  or  confide  them  to  the  local  dealer,  who  is 
likely  to  give  a  fair  price  and  save  you  much  trouble. 
Of  course  if  you  can  take  the  furs  yourself  to  the  city 
and  wait  for  an  opportunity ,  you  may  get  better  prices. 

The  traps  used  for  fur-bearing  animals  by  the 
primitive  inhabitants  of  our  forests,  who  were  un- 
Varieties  acquainted  with  wire  and  steel,  were  almost 
of  Traps  exclusively  such  as  resulted  in  the  imme- 
diate death  of  the  victim,  and  thus  humane  in  char- 
acter. It  was  reserved  for  " civilized"  man  to  invent 
the  steel-trap,  which  often  tortures  its  victim  until 
death  ensues  after  long  agony.  It  is,  however,  so 
much  more  certain  and  more  easily  set  than  the 
"deadfall"  of  the  Indians,  that  utility  has  once 
more  triumphed  over  humanity,  and  the  steel-trap 
is  universally  employed  by  systematic  and  successful 
trappers.  Nevertheless  the  deadfall,  when  well  con- 
structed and  set,  is  most  useful;  in  my  own  opinion 
nearly  as  good  as  the  steel-trap,  though  taking  longer 
to  construct  and  having  the  great  disadvantage  of 
not  being  transportable.  On  the  other  hand  it  is 
constructed  from  materials  found  on  the  spot,  with 
no  other  tools  than  knife  and  hatchet. 


Trapping  379 

Deadfalls  are  of  many  varieties,  the  salient  feature 
of  all  being  a  weight  supported  by  a  prop,  which  is 
displaced  by  the  victim  as  it  seeks  to  pass  - 
through  the  door  of  the  trap,  or  (most  often 
the  case)  disturbs  the  bait  on  the  end  of  the  trigger 
within.  The  weight  is  almost  invariably  a  log  or 
pole  (according  to  the  size  of  the  trap)  across  which 
are  laid  other  logs  and  stones.  This  weighted  log, 
falls  between  two  pairs  of  stakes  driven  into  the  ground 
on  each  side  of  the  opening,  which  is  made  just  wide 
enough  to  admit  the  victim.  On  the  ground  between 
the  stakes  is  a  smooth  log -upon  which  the  weighted  log, 
or  "killer,"  falls.  The  prop  (for  mink-trapping  about 
six  or  seven  inches  long  and  not  over  f  of  an  inch  in 
diameter)  is  flat  on  top,  to  receive  the  killer,  but  cut 
thinner  at  the  bottom,  which  is  left  a  long  and  narrow 
rectangle  or  else  a  blunt  point.  This  rests  upon  the 
end  of  the  ten-inch,  slender  trigger,  which  is  flattened 
at  one  end,  so  as  to  rest  steadily  between  the  prop 
and  the  under  entrance-log  at  one  side  of  the  entrance. 
The  trigger  extends  inside  to  the  back  of  the  pen, 
the  free  end  being  baited.  It  is  evident  that  when 
this  baited  end  is  moved  the  delicately  balanced  prop 
is  displaced  and  the  killer-log  falls  upon  the  victim's 
back.  The  pen  is  made,  of  sticks  driven  into  the 
ground,  or  rocks  or  other  material  unartificial  in 
appearance  but  strong  enough  to  prevent  the  animal 
breaking  through  instead  of  going  in  at  the  entrance. 
It  is  covered  with  pieces  of  bark,  sticks,  and  what 
not,  and  is  just  large  enough  for  the  weight  to  strike 
the  victim  in  the  back  when  it  seizes  the  bait. 

In  the  case  of  a  bear-trap,  in  which  the  weighted 
log  is  too  heavy  to  set  in  this  manner,  this  log  is 
suspended  by  wire  or  withes  to  one  end  of  a  stout 


380  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

stake  about  four  feet  long  which  rests  on  an  upper, 
fixed  log  and  extends  over  the  whole  pen-opening 
to  the  back,  where  another  wire  or  withe  connects 
it.  with  the  bait  in  such  a  way  that,  when  the  bait 
is  disturbed,  the  withe  is  pulled  off  the  inner  end  of 
the  stake,  which  flies  up,  of  course  releasing  the 
weighted  log  over  the  entrance. 

The  triggers  described  above  are  as  good  as  any 
others,  if  not  rather  better,  though  many  varieties 
are  in  use. 

There  are  three  kinds  of  metal  traps:    those  set 
flat  on  the  ground  or  in  the  water,  those  set  upright, 
et  on  trees-     Of  the  first  class, 


St    1  tr 

comprising  nine  tenths  of  all  metal  traps 

used,  the  Newhouse  traps  are  the  most  durable  and 
best  (Oneida  Community,  Kenwood,  N.  Y.).  The 
second  class  is  represented  by  the  Stop-thief  wire  trap, 
which  is  set  upright  over  the  hole  of  an  animal,  which 
springs  it  by  striking  the  trigger  in  passing.  It  has 
the  advantage  of  nearly  always  killing  at  once.  The 
Tree-trap  (for  marten,  raccoon,  opossum,  squirrel, 
etc.)  is  placed  on  tree-trunks  or  limbs.  It  strikes 
the  animal's  neck  when  the  bait  is  disturbed  and  kills 
instantly.  Both  the  two  latter  kinds  are  made  by 
the  Animal  Trap  Company,  Abingdon,  111.  The 
catalogues  of  all  these  firms  should  be  sent  for,  though 
the  traps  can  be  purchased  in  almost  any  large  town. 
The  Newhouse  traps  are  graded  according  to  size, 
but  are  strong  enough  to  hold  animals  somewhat 
larger  than  those  given  for  the  stated  sizes.  Thus 
No.  i  ,  though  advertised  to  trap  muskrats  and  skunks, 
is  quite  strong  enough  for  mink,  and  is  used  "by 
trappers  for  that  animal  more  than  No,  i-J,  the  so- 


Trapping  381 

called  mink  size.  No.  i  costs  per  dozen  from  $2.50 
to  $3.00  according  to  the  place  of  purchase.  The  single- 
spring  No.  2^  is  strong  enough  for  otter.  Its  price 
is  from  $8.25  to  $9.90  per  dozen.  Stop-thief  traps 
No.  i  (for  squirrels  and  gophers)  cost  $1.05  per 
dozen  of  the  makers,  and  No.  3,  large  enough  for 
raccoon  and  skunk,  $1.75  per  dozen.  The  tree-trap 
for  mink  and  marten  costs  $  .50,  and  that  for  raccoon 
$  .60  each.  These  prices  include  chains  where  used. 

It  is  well  to  have  a  5o-cent  box  of  "cold  shut 
repair-links"  of  different  sizes,  with  which  Spare  Links 
broken  chains  are  easily  made  whole. 

New  steel-traps  should  be  well  rubbed  with  tallow, 
lard,  or  some  other  grease  containing  no  salt,  to  pre- 
vent too  much  rusting.  Rust  tends  to  Care  of 
prevent  the  smooth  working  of  the  trap,  Steel-traps 
and  the  odor  of  it  to  frighten  game.  When  rusty — 
and  a  little  rusting  is  unavoidable — the  traps  should 
be  placed  in  kerosene  oil  for  a  day,  more  or  less,  and 
then  rubbed  and  sandpapered  or  scraped.  When  put 
away  for  the  summer  tallow  them  well.  Before  using 
examine  them  for  flaws  in  trap  or  chain.  Look  after 
the  chain  swivels  particularly,  as,  if  they  refuse  to 
turn,  a  strong  animal  will  be  likely  to  break  the  chain. 

Most  trapping  authorities  warn  us  never  to  handle 
traps  with  the  bare  hands  when  setting  them,  but 
this  rule  is  more  honoured  in  the  breach  than  in  the 
keeping.  If  neglected  it  will  be  well  either  to  smoke 
the  traps  or  to  smear  them  with  "dope"  (see  below), 
in  order  to  counteract  the  human  scent. 

Artificial  scents,  or  "dope,"  are  extensively  used 


382          The  Way  of  the  Woods 

to  give  the  bait  additional  strength  of  odor.  There 
are  many  of  them,  the  commonest  being  made  by 
hanging  pieces  of  eel,  trout,  or  other  oily 
fish  in  bottles  in  the  sun,  the  resultant 
fish-oil  being  particularly  malodorous  to  the  trapper, 
but  quite  the  opposite  to  the  fur-bearers.  Other 
"dopes"  are  made  of  annis,  castoreum,  assafoetida, 
fennel,  cummin,  musk,  etc.  The  advertising  pages 
of  Hunter -Trader -Trap  per  will  reveal  the  sources 
of  many  of  these  dopes,  which  may  be  purchased  for 
trapping  any  animal.  Trappers  differ  widely  in  their 
estimates  of  the  value  of  the  use  of  dope,  many 
ignoring  it  entirely.  It  can  certainly  do  no  harm, 
and  may  be  recommended  to  all  but  the  most  wary 
and  careful,  as  it  serves  to  counteract  the  human 
smell.  A  drop  or  two  is  put  on  the  bait  and  more 
sprinkled  about  the  trap.  The  soles  of  the  shoes  may 
be  smeared  with  it,  and  a  small  bag  filled  with  rags 
steeped  in  it  may  be  dragged  from  several  directions 
towards  the  trap,  or  from  trap  to  trap  as  the  trapper 
proceeds  on  his  rounds. 

Besides  light  leaves,  powdered  rotten  wood  and 
bark,  chaff,  etc.,  used  to  cover  the  trap,  a  few  feathers 
scattered  about  serve  to  attract  the  prowling  mink  and 
mask  the  iron. 

Although  the  ring  of  the  trap-chain  is  generally 
firmly  attached  to  a  tree  or  root  by  driving  the  spike 
Spring-  into  it,  it  is  often  a  good  plan  to  use  a 
pole  spring-pole,  especially  in  regions  where 

smaller  trapped  animals  are  commonly  stolen  by  wol- 
verines, fishers,  and  other  trap-robbers.  It  is  merely 
a  stout  sapling  bent  down  and  confined  by  a  rough 
hook  driven  into  the  ground-  The  end  of  the  chain 


Trapping  383 

is  attached  to  the  top  of  the  bent  sapling,  which 
is  placed  under  the  hook  in  such  a  manner  that  it  is 
quite  easily  released  in  the  struggles  of  the  trapped 
animal,  which  is  then  jerked  up  and  suspended  out 
of  the  way  of  marauders. 

Traps  set  in  or  very  near  the  water  should  always 
be  attached  to  sliding-poles,  set  slanting  in  the  bottom, 
the  chain-ring  running  loosely,  so  that,  SHd. 
when  the  animal  is  caught  and  seeks  the 
water  as  a  means  of  escape,  the  ring  slides  down  the 
pole,  preventing  the  re-ascent  of  the  animal,  which 
speedily  drowns.  The  pole  is  therefore  a  humane 
appliance.  Light  chains,  stretched  tight,  are  some- 
times used  in  place  of  poles,  but  are  much  more 
conspicuous,  as  well  as  an  unnecessary  weight  to 
carry.  Sliding-poles  are  used  particularly  in  the 
trapping  of  aquatic  animals,  which  will  often  gnaw 
off  their  imprisoned  feet  and  escape,  though  this 
happens  less  often  than  is  commonly  believed. 

Trapping  is  an  interesting  and  instructive  art, 
because  success  in  it  requires  a  study  of  the  habits 
of  the  animals  trapped.  The  best  trapper  is  the  one 
who,  in  addition  to  this  knowledge,  is  the  most 
familiar  with  his  territory.  His  observations  extend 
throughout  the  year,  and  his  eyes  are  as  open  in  early 
spring,  just  at  the  close  of  the  season,  The  Start- 
as  at  its  beginning  in  autumn,  for  signs  of  ing-point 
game,  since  the  cardinal  point  of  trapping  consists  in 
finding  out  the  exact  haunts  of  the  quarry. 

THE  OTTER   (Lutra  canadensis) 
This  largest  member  of  the  marten  family  (Mus- 


384          The  Way  of  the  Woods 

telidcs)  is  an  amphibious  fish-eater,  a  mighty,  web- 
footed  swimmer,  in  which  capacity  it  is  aided  by  a 
long,  thick,  pointed  and  flattened  tail.  Its  broad, 
flat  head  and  thick  body  together  are  about  25  to  27 
inches  in  length,  its  tail  15  or  16  inches,  and  its  thick, 
fine,  beautiful  fur  is  dark  brown.  It  lives  in  burrows 
under  the  banks  of  streams  and  lakes.  Its  young 
are  generally  two  in  mimber.  The  otter  does  not 
readily  enter  traps,  and  would  be  a  most  difficult 
animal  to  capture  were  it  not  for  the  fact. that  it  is 
distinctly  a  creature  of  habit.  Although  a  somewhat 
wide  ranger,  it  commonly  crosses  islands  and  land- 
spits  by  regular,  beaten  paths  that  are  easily  recog- 
nisable, and  in  such  paths,  at  the  water's  edge,  the 
steel -traps,  concealed  by  leaves,  chaff,  and  light  moss, 
are  usually  set.  A  curious  habit  of  otters  is  that  of 
sliding  down  slippery  banks  into  the  water,  thought 
to  be  of  purely  sportive  nature,  and  traps  are  also 
set  at  the  top  and  in  the  water  at  the  bottom  of  these 
" slides."  The  trap,  a  No.  2-J,  3,  or  3^  Newhouse, 
is  attached,  by  means  of  the  chain-ring,  to  the  thick 
end  of  a  stout,  trimmed  sapling,  from  10  to  15  feet 
long,  by  splitting  and  wedging  that  end.  Trap  and 
chain  are  covered  up  and  all  traces  of  man  carefully 
removed,  the  path  being  at  last  plentifully  dashed 
with  water  with  a  spruce  branch.  When  the  otter 
springs  the  trap  the  weight  of  the  pole  prevents  his 
escape  to  any  great  distance,  while  its  ability  to  drag 
it  a  little  way  renders  it  unlikely  to  gnaw  off  or  pull 
out  its  foot.  It  is  best  to  inspect  otter-traps  in  canoes, 
in  order  to  leave  no  telltale  scent  in  case  they  are  not 
sprung.  Bait  is  not  generally  used  in  trapping  otters, 
as  they  are  not  very  partial  to  dead  food,  especially 
when  stale,  preferring  to  catch  their  own.  Something 


Trapping  385 

soft  that  will  not  freeze  should  be  placed  under  the 
pan,  to  keep  it  raised. 

In  addition  to  the  above  "land-sets"   there  are 
water-sets"  for  otter,  one  being  at  the  foot  of  a  slide, 
in  a  couple  of  inches  of  water.     Another   w 
is  to  place  the  trap  just  on  the  bottom 
where  the  hind  feet  of  the  animal  touch  the  ground 
as  it  lands  at  a  slide  of  path.    The  sliding-pole  (see 
Mink)  is  often  used  with  water-sets. 

THE  MINK 

The  Mink  (Lutreola  visori)  is  a  small  replica  of  its 
big  cousin  the  otter,  and  rivals  it  in  cunning  while  far 
surpassing  it  in  ferocity,  being  incredibly  bold  when 
it  attacks  its  prey,  often  ignoring  even  the  presence  of 
human  beings,  though  very  shy  at  all  other  times.  Mr. 
Hornaday  tells  me  that  he  finds  the  greatest  difficulty 
in  defending  the  rare  wildfowl  of  the  Bronx  Zoolog- 
ical Park  from  the  ravages  of  minks.  A  very  large 
mink  will  measure  20  inches  from  nose  to  root  of  tail, 
which  is  about  7  inches  long.  In  colour  it  may 
be  light  or  dark  brown,  the  latter  being  the  more 
valuable.  Like  all  the  Mustelidce  the  mink  breeds 
in  the  spring,  bringing  forth  from  four  to  six  "kittens " 
at  a  litter.  Except  at  the  breeding  season  it  is  a 
great  traveller,  but  seldom  wanders  far  from  the 
banks  of  streams  and  lakes,  being  a  bold  and  expert 
swimmer.  Its  food  consists  of  any  birds  and  small 
animals,  some  much  larger  than  itself,  that  it  can 
capture,  as  well  as  fish,  muskrats  and  trout  being 
among  its  favourite  dishes,  for  which  reason  the  one 
or  the  other  of  these  is  preferably  chosen  to  bait 


386          The  Way  of  the  Woods 

mink-traps.  These  are  either  the  steel-trap  (No. 
i  or  ii)  or  the  deadfall.  If  a  steel-trap  the  bait  is 
placed  either  at  the  farther  end  of  a  covered  "pen," 
upon  a  spindle,  so  that  the  mink  must  step  on  the 
pan  of  the  trap  in  order  to  reach  it,  or  hung  in  such 
a  manner  that  the  hind  legs  will  be  caught  when  the 
animal  rises  to  secure  it.  In  place  of  the  pen  a  cavity 
in  a  hollow  stump  is  often  used,  having  a  more  natural 
appearance.  In  fact  the  trapper  always  seeks  the 
aid  of  natural  features  as  far  as  possible.  The  bait 
should  be  well  secured  to  the  spindle,  so  that  the 
mink  will  have  some  trouble  in  detaching  it,  as  the 
trap  may  spring  hard  and  allow  its  escape  if  the  bait 
is  too  lightly  attached. 

The  mink  runs  along  the  banks,  prying  into  every 
crevice,  hole,  and  hollow  log,  and  this  habit  gives  the 
trapper  his  cue,  as  well  as  its  way  of  visiting  islands, 
especially  those  of  miniature  size,  such  as  rocks  and 
half-submerged  logs.  Among  the  various  mink-sets 
with  steel-traps  may  be  mentioned  the  following: 
at  the  entrance  to  any  hole  along  a  stream,  the  bait 
being  placed  at  the  bottom  and  often  scented;  in  a 
hollow  log,  the  bait  being  placed  each  side  of  the  trap, 
or  on  the  inside  if  one  end  is  stopped  up ;  on  the  mud 
or  in  shallow  water  under  the  bank  washed  out  by  the 
stream,  the  bait  being  suspended  above,  or,  if  the 
path  is  very  narrow,  without  bait,  a  few  drops  of 
scent  being  sprinkled  on  each  side;  in  the  water 
directly  under  an  airhole  in  the  ice;  in  a  snow-tunnel 
made  by  mink;  in  a  tunnel  made  with  flat  stones. 
In  fact  traps  may  be  set  in  any  of  the  numerous  places 
where  mink  are  likely  to  run,  the  observation  of  the 
trapper  being  the  criterion.  Deadfalls  are  generally 
set  close  to  the  bank,  in  the  mink's  line  of  march. 


Trapping  387 

Muskrat  flesh  is  the  best  bait,  with  trout  a  close 
second  choice,  other  good  lures  being  birds,  mice, 
rabbit  flesh,  sardines,  and  even  red  herring  if  nothing 
better  is  at  hand. 

•    THE  MARTEN 

The  Pine  Marten  (Mustela  americana)  is  a  first 
cousin  of  the  mink  and  of  about  the  same  size,  but 
much  less  ferocious  in  character,  seldom  killing  more 
than  it  needs  for  food.  It  lives  in  hollow  trees  and 
burrows,  in  wooded  districts,  and  its  young  are  from 
three  to  five  in  number.  Although  far  less  valuable 
than  its  Russian  cousin,  the  sable,  its  fur,  ranging 
in  colour  from  yellowish  to  the  much-sought  dark 
brown,  is  nevertheless  one  of  the  most  beautiful  be- 
longing to  American  animals.  The  marten  is  carnivo- 
rous and  the  traps  for  taking  it  are  therefore  baited 
with  meat,  birds'  heads,  fish,  etc.  They  are  set  in  or 
near  trees,  the  most  humane  trap  being  the  tree- 
trap,  described  above,  which  kills  almost  instantly. 

THE  FISHER 

The  Fisher  (Mustela  penanti,)  or  Pennant's  Marten, 
is  larger  but  much  less  valuable  than  the  pine  marten. 
It  ranges  widely  but  loves  to  live  in  trees,  being  a 
fearless  and  expert  climber.  It  feeds  on  any  kind 
of  flesh  procurable,  from  frogs  to  porcupines,  and  is 
a  well-known  bait-stealer.  It  measures  nearly  two 
feet  from  nose  to  root  of  tail  and  is  built  more  power- 
ful and  stocky  than  the  mink  or  marten.  The  young 
are  from  two  to  four  in  number.  The  fur  is  a  glossy 
black  or  brown.  Traps  for  fisher  should  be  provided 
with  spring-poles,  as  this  animal  is  very  apt  to  gnaw 


388          The  Way  of  the  Woods 

off  its  own  leg  and  escape.  Rabbit  flesh  forms  a  good 
bait.  The  No.  2  tree-trap  or  ij  Newhouse  steel-trap 
may  be  used.  Deadfalls  are  often  pulled  to  pieces 
by  the  fisher* s  powerful  claws.  A  hollow  log  is  a 
favourite  place  for  setting,  and  "dope"  is  often 
dragged  from  trap  to  trap,  as  well  as  smeared  over 
trap  and  bait. 

THE  WOLVERINE 

The  Wolverine  (Gulo  luscus),  Carcajou,  or  Glutton, 
is  a  savage,  powerful  and  ugly  animal  of  about  the 
size  of  a  bull  terrier.  Its  ferocity  and  cunning,  though 
not  its  appearance,  show  its  membership  in  the 
marten  family.  It  is  not  only  the  greatest  pest  of  the 
trapper,  breaking  his  traps  and  robbing  him  of  his 
fur,  but  often  tears  down  even  his  camps  and  caches 
and  destroys  his  supplies,  while  at  the  same  time 
it  is  wary  and  difficult  to  trap.  The  name  given  it  by 
some  Western  Indian  tribes,  "mountain  devil,"  is 
richly  deserved.  In  appearance  it  seems  to  be  a  kind 
of  link  between  the  marten  and  bear  families,  having 
teeth  like  the  former,  while  being  flat-footed  and 
heavy-bodied  like  the  bears.  In  colour  it  is  brown 
with  lighter  bands.  Poisoning  with  strychnine,  a 
method  best  left  to  professionals,  is  said  to  be  the  best 
way  of  getting  rid  of  the  wolverine.  Mr.  Hornaday 
has  a  most  amusing  account  of  the  animal  in  his 
Camp-fires  in  the  Canadian  Rockies. 

THE  LYNX 

The  Canada  Lynx  (Lynx  canadensis)  is  a  thick- 
furred,  grey,  large-footed,  long-legged,  and  short- 
tailed  animal  of  the  cat  family,  standing  about  18 


Trapping  389 

inches  high  at  the  shoulders,  and  weighing  about  20 
pounds,  though  large  ones  may  be  heavier.  The 
length  of  body  and  head  is  about  3  2  inches  and  of  the 
tail  5  inches.  Characteristic  marks  are  its  "whiskers" 
and  the  stiff,  black  pencil-hairs  with  which  its  ears 
are  tipped.  Though  more  often  shot,  after  treeing 
with  dogs,  than  trapped,  steel -traps  baited  with  rabbit 
or  bird  flesh  are  used,  as  well  as  snares  placed  in  the 
runways.  (See  below  under  Wildcat.) 

THE  WILDCAT 

The  Wildcat  (Lynx  rufus),  (Bay  Lynx,  Red  Lynx, 
or  Bobcat)  is  a  much  commoner  member  of  the 
jelidcz  than  its  more  northern  cousin,  being  found 
all  over  the  United  States  and  Canada.  It  is  about 
the  same  size  as  the  lynx,  but  is  a  much  handsomer 
animal,  its  coat  being  yellowish  brown  mottled  with 
black.  The  quality  of  the  fur,  however,  is  inferior 
to  that  of  the  lynx.  The  wildcat,  though  very  strong 
and  active,  is  a  cowardly  beast  and  will  never  face 
either  man  or  dog  unless  trapped  or  cornered,  when 
it  will  often  spring  at  its  persecutor.  It  -is  so  shy 
that  many  old  woodsmen  have  passed  their  lives 
without  seeing  more  than  a  half  dozen  except  in  traps 
and  snares.  It  lives  on  all  kinds  of  small  game  and  is 
particularly  fond  of  lambs,  rabbits,  and  grouse,  for 
which  reason  most  States  have  placed  a  bounty  on 
its  capture.  Like  the  mink,  it  will  often  kill  more  than 
it  can  eat,  and  in  the  Maritime  Provinces  (especially 
Nova  Scotia),  where  a  large  variety,  called  Lynx  gigas, 
has  its  home,  I  have  known  it  to  kill  six  full-grown 
sheep  in  a  night,  while  its  record  for  lambs  is  thirty-two 
in  a  week,  exploits  that  would  be  credited  only  to  the 


The  Way  of  the  Woods 

panther  if  that  animal  still  existed  in  the  East.  Like 
the  lynx  the  bobcat  is  generally  treed  with  dogs  and 
shot,  though  in.  swampy  country  it  will  often  run 
round  and  round  the  swamp,  in  which  case  the  hunter 
takes  his  station  near  a  track  and  shoots  when  the 
cat  passes.  It  will  often  get  into  mink-traps,  which 
are  generally  too  weak  to  hold  it.  If  steel-traps  are 
used  No.  2  and  2  J  are  good  sizes.  The  bait  may  be 
rabbit  flesh.  The  best  way  to  catch  cats  is,  however, 
to  set  snares  in  their  paths,  which  are  readily  recog- 
nised by  the  tracks,  dung,  etc.  The  snare  is  best 
made  of  brass  rabbit-wire,  four  strands  being  twisted 
together  and  then  doubled,  making  a  cable  of  eight 
strands.  It  should  be  about  two  feet  long,  a  loop 
being  left  at  one  end  to  form  a  noose,  which  should 
be  eight  inches  in  diameter.  This  is  attached  to  a  small 
evergreen  tree  and  set  in  a  part  of  the  path  where  it 
narrows  to  about  the  width  of  the  snare.  Such  a 
place  may  be  made  by  the  aid  of  rocks,  brush,  etc., 
the  object  being  to  insure  the  cat's  passing  through, 
for  which  reason  brush  should  be  heaped  on  each 
side  of  the  path.  The  young  evergreen  is  thrust  into 
the  ground  on  one  side,  and  the  noose  adjusted  so 
that  its  bottom  is  two  or  three  inches  above  the 
ground.  The  cat  in  passing  puts  its  stupid  head 
through  the  noose,  and  its  consequent  struggles  serve 
to  tighten  it  to  strangulation.  If  the  tree  were  fixed 
the  snare  would  be  torn  -apart.  No  bait  is  needed. 
A  good  wildcat  skin  makes  a  beautiful  rug,  mounted 
with  the  head  and  claws;  the  skull  should  therefore 
always  be  preserved. 

THE  FOX 
Renard  is  found  in  several  varieties  in  the  regions 


'* YANKEE"  AND  HER  BACKWOODS  COUSIN 


Trapping  39i 

most  frequented  by  campers,  but  the  red  fox  (Vulpes 
fulvus)  is  by  far  the  commonest,  being  found  all  over 
the  north-eastern  part  of  our  continent,  wherever 
there  are  trees,  and  even  in  Alaska.  Its  persistence 
too  is  remarkable,  for,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  every 
man's  hand  is  against  it,  it  seems  to  thrive  and  even 
to  increase  in  numbers.  It  is  about  two  feet  long 
and  thirteen  inches  in  height.  The  fox  is  not  a  very 
easy  animal  to  trap,  for  his  slyness  is  as  well  founded 
as  it  is  traditional.  Steel-traps  are  generally  used 
(No.  2  or  2-J),  and  these  are  set  at  the  entrance  of  a 
den  or  in  a  path,  and  always  covered  with  chaff,  moss, 
earth,  etc.  Before  being  set  the  trap  ought  to  be 
smeared  with  blood  or  "dope,,"  or  both,  to  eradicate 
all  human  scent.  The  bait  (meat,  fowls,  etc.)  is  gen- 
erally cut  up  and  scattered  about  the  trap,  none  be- 
ing placed  directly  over  the  pan.  A  drag  of  "  doped  " 
meat  is  often  used  to  make  paths  of  scent  leading  to 
the  trap  from  different  directions.  In  trapping  foxes 
gloves  should  be  worn  to  handle  traps,  and  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  smear  the  soles  of  the  boots  with  "dope." 
A  place  where  fox-traps  are  set  is  called  a  "bed,"  and 
often  several  traps  are  set  in  it,  part  of  the  bait  being 
buried  incompletely,  so  that  the  fox  will  dig  up  the 
bait  and  in  doing  so  get  his  foot  into  the  trap. 

The  cross  fox  is  merely  a  "colour  phase"  of  the 
red  fox,  having  a  dark  cross  on  the  shoulders  and 
black  legs  and  belly. 

THE  MUSKRAT 

The  Muskrat  (Fiber  zibethicus)  is  not,  as  commonly 
believed,  a  small  cousin  of  the  beaver,  but  a  real 
rat.  It  is  about  21  inches  in  length,  and  its  chief 


392  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

characteristic  is  its  hairless  tail.  It  is  aquatic  in  its 
habits,  inhabiting  houses  on  the  banks  of  streams 
and  ponds,  the  entrances  to  which  are  below  the 
surface  of  the  water.  Its  chief  enemy  is  the  mink, 
which  sometimes  assails  it  in  its  very  home.  Its 
name  is  taken  from  its  strong  odour,  which  emanates 
from  the  musk-glands  near  the  tail.  Its  skin,  dark 
brown  in  colour,  is  probably  the  most  used  of  any 
cheap  fur  in  the  world,  principally  for  linings  of  coats, 
gloves,  etc.  It  is  easy  to  trap,  all  that  is  necessary 
being  to  set  the  traps  (No.  i),  unbaited  but  concealed 
by  leaves,  dead  grass,  etc.,  at  the  landing-places  of  the 
rats,  in  their  paths,  in  the  water  at  the  entrances  of 
their  houses  and  other  haunts.  As  there  are  often 
no  trees  or  bushes  large  enough  to  hold  the  trap- 
chains,  these  are  attached  by  their  rings  to  stout 
sticks  thrust  deep  into  the  marsh.  As  the  rat  nearly 
always  dives  into  the  water  when  caught,  it  is 
speedily  drowned,  the  weight  of  the  trap  prevent- 
ing it  from  remaining  at  the  surface  long.  This 
is  necessary,  as  the  muskrat  will  otherwise  very 
often  gnaw  off  its  foot.  A  sliding-pole  may  be  used, 
but  is  hardly  essential.  Small  islands,  even  arti- 
ficial ones  made  by  sods,  are  good  sites  for  traps, 
as  the  rats  frequently  land  on  them  when  swimming. 
An  old  but  often  effectual  trap  consists  only  of  a 
barrel,  weighted  so  that  it  sits  deep  in  the  water 
with  its  edge  but  a  few  inches  above  the  surface. 
Pieces  of  apple,  vegetables,  flagroot,  etc.  are  placed 
in  the  empty  barrel.  The  rats  readily  jump  in  to 
get  at  the  food  but  are  unable  to  get  out  again. 
There  are  innumerable  other  contrivances  and 
methods  for  trapping  muskrats,  but  the  steel-trap 
is  the  best. 


Trapping  393 

THE  RACCOON 

The  Coon,  short  for  Raccoon  (Procyon  lotor),  is  a 
plantigrade  remotely  allied  with  the  bear  family. 
It  feeds  upon  almost  anything  it  can  find,  is  more 
or  less  nocturnal  in  its  habits,  and  hibernates  like  its 
big  cousin.  From  four  to  six  "kittens"  are  born  in 
spring.  The  coon,  which  is  commoner  in  the  south 
than  with  us,  has  a  body  about  two  feet  long,  a  bushy 
black  and  yellow  ringed  tail,  and  a  whimsical  head 
from  which  two  very  bright  eyes  peep  forth.  The 
colour  of  its  body  is  greyish,  barred  and  streaked 
with  darker  shades.  It  loves  to  swim  and  will  eat 
a  frog  as  soon  as  a  fat  pullet,  though  it  is  a  frequent 
visitor  to  the  poultry-yard  for  the  purpose  of  "lift- 
ing "  the  latter  dainty.  Coons  are  trapped  by  setting 
concealed  traps  (No.  i£)  in  their  known  paths,  or  in 
places  frequented  by  them.  Bait  on  sticks  may  be 
suspended  over  the  traps.  Fish  is  good  bait,  either 
fresh  or  salted  and  roasted,  to  give  it  a  strong  odour. 

THE    ERMINE    (WEASEL) 

The  Ermine  (Putorius  erminea)  is  our  common 
weasel  in  its  beautiful  winter  dress,  white  with  black- 
tipped  tails.  This  coat  is  often  yellowish  in  tint,  a 
condition  detracting  from  its  value.  On  account  of 
the  small  size  of  the  ermine  it  is  not  much  trapped, 
most  of  those  taken  being  the  victims  of  investigation 
of  traps  set  for  larger  fur-bearers.  It  is  the  smallest 
of  the  marten  family,  being  only  about  a  foot  long, 
but  exhibits  all  the  boldness  of  its  big  cousin  the 
mink,  preying  upon  rabbits,  ducks,  and  chickens. 
It  imitates  the  ferocity  of  the  mink,  too,  in  killing 
much  more  than  it  can  devour.  It  is  distinctly  the 


394          The  Way  of  the  Woods 

sportsman's  enemy.  Small  steel-traps  (No.  o)  are  best 
for  ermine,  which  are  very  greedy  and  easily  taken. 
The  weasel  in  its  brown  dress  has  no  market  value. 

BEARS 

The  Grizzly  Bear  is  trapped  for  the  bounty  placed 
by  several  States  on  its  head,  as  well  as  to  rid  the 
district  of  cattle-killing  vermin,  or,  finally,  for  the 
sake  of  sport,  a  bad  reason,  however.  Its  pelt  is 
inferior  in  quality  to  that  of  the  black  bear.  The 
method  of  capture  of  both  animals  is  similar,  though 
the  steel-trap  used  for  the  grizzly  is  larger  than  that 
for  black,  the  Newhouse  special  grizzly  trap,  weighing 
rather  less  than  fifty  pounds,  being  that  generally 
selected.  There  are  two  smaller  sizes  for  trapping 
black  bears.  The  method  of  setting  a  bear-trap  is  thus 
described  in  Hunter-Trader-Trapper  by  an  old  woods- 
man of  Montana,  and  may  stand  for  the  average 
set  with  steel-traps: 

The  entrance  of  the  enclosure  (pen)  is  narrowed  by  stout 
stakes  driven  in  the  ground,  the  last  two  driven  slanting,  so 
the  bottom  of  the  entrance  is  just  the  size  of  the  jaws  of  the 
trap,  and  by  slanting  outward  they  accommodate  the  body 
of  the  animal.  The  bait  is  placed  about  four  or  five  feet 
beyond  the  trap,  which  we  set  crossways  in  the  gap,  loose 
jaw  out,  well  bedded  down,  so  when  the  trap  is  covered  with 
grass,  moss,  or  other  trash  it  is  perfectly  level,  making  a  nice 
place  for  your  game  to  step.  Just  inside  of  the  trap  we  drive 
a  dozen  or  more  small  stakes,  letting  them  stick  up  six  or 
eight  inches.  Your  bear  will  not  step  on  these  pegs,  but  as 
close  as  possible  to  them,  in  searching  for  the  bait;  therefore 
you  can  calculate  to  a  nicety  where  he  will  place  his  foot. 
We  secure  the  chain  to  a  clog  four  or  five  feet  long  and  six  or 
seven  inches  in  diameter. 

This  clog  is  usually  of  about  75  or  So  pounds  in  weight 


Trapping  395 

for  a  grizzly  and  half  that  for  a  black  bear.  The 
greatest  care  should  be  taken  when  setting  bear-traps, 
in  order  to  prevent  accidents.  More  than  one  poor 
fellow  has  been  caught  by  the  forearms  in  the  jaws 
of  a  bear-trap,  the  result  of  such  an  occurrence,  in 
case  the  man  is  alone,  being  best  left  to  the  imagina- 
tion. Only  his  skeleton  would  remain  to  chronicle 
his  fate.  The  Oneida  Cummunity  makes  iron  clamps 
for  the  purpose  of  setting  large  traps  with  safety, 
Nos.  5  and  6  being  suitable  for  bear-traps. 

The  pen  for  a  steel-trap  need  not  be  so  elaborate 
as  that  of  a  deadfall,  but  should  insure  the  stepping 
on  the  pan  of  the  trap  by  the  animal.  The  pan  may 
be  supported  by  a  light  stick,  strong  enough  to 
prevent  the  trap  being  sprung  by  a  smaller  animal 
than  a  bear.  A  strong  bear  will  drag  a  trap  for  a  half 
a  mile  or  even  farther,  but  his  trail  is  easily  followed ; 
whereas  if  he  were  able  to  get  a  straight  pull  on  the 
chain,  it  would  very  likely  part.  Meat  of  any  kind  may 
be  used  as  bait;  if  smeared  with  honey  or  molas- 
ses it  is  more  attractive.  North  woods  hunters  fre- 
quently take  one  or  more  bear-traps  with  them, 
which  they  bait  with  the  offal  of  any  moose  or  deer 
slain. 

Deadfalls  for  bears  are  described  above. 

The  skunk  is  not  so  numerous  in  the  north  woods 
as  farther  south.  The  " sport"  of  trapping  it  may 
well  be  left  to  professionals. 

Readers  who  intend  going  in  seriously  for  trap- 
ping are  strongly  recommended  to  subscribe  to  the 
Hunter-Trader-Trapper,  a  monthly  maga-  Biblio- 
zine  published  at  Columbus,  O.  ($i.  per  graphy 
year),  a  veritable  storehouse  of  trapping  lore,  one 


396          The  Way  of  the  Woods 

of  the  most  valuable  features  of  which  is  the  letters 
from  well-known  trappers  in  different  parts  of  the 
United  States  and  Canada.  There  is  at  present  no 
up-to-date,  authoritative  book  on  trapping.  Among 
good  pamphlets  may  be  mentioned  as  desirable  to 
possess:  The  Neivhouse  Trapper's  Guide  (Oneida, 
N.  Y.);  A.  R.  Harding's  books:  Deadfalls,  Mink- 
Trapping,  Fox-Trapping,  and  Steel  Traps  (Columbus, 
O.) ;  Canadian  Wilds,  by  Martin  Hunter;  Camp 
Life  and  the  Tricks  of  Trapping,  by  Wm.  H.  Gibson 
(New  York).  The  last-named  book  is  elaborate  but 
rather  out  of  date.  It  contains  good  descriptions 
of  snares,  box-traps,  etc.  The  North  American 
Trapper  (Oneida  Community,  $i.  per  year)  is  an 
excellent  monthly. 


CHAPTER  XX 

PHOTOGRAPHY 

THOUGH  it  is  not  necessary  to  admit  that  hunting 
and  fishing,  as  indulged  in  by  the  humane  and  intel- 
ligent sportsman,  are  morally  reprehensible,  it  never- 
theless remains  true  that  year  by  year  the  world  is 
growing  less  bloodthirsty,  and  for  this  reason  the 
more  prone  to  welcome  the  delights  of  what  has  come 
to  be  called  " hunting  with  a  camera,"  a  sport  that 
cannot  be  too  much  encouraged.  While  its  character 
may  be  a  trifle  too  idyllic  for  strenuous  temperaments, 
there  are  many  who  assert  that  it  may  be  made  as 
exciting  as  the  photographer  wishes;  and  instances 
of  the  facing  of  a  wild  grizzly  at  shortest  range  armed 
only  with  a  Graflex  indicate  that  pluck  may  at 
times  be  as  desirable  a  quality  as  if  the  camera  were  a 
Winchester  .405,  aye,  and  perhaps  more  so.  And 
when  it  comes  to  the  moral  side  of  the  comparison 
the  hunter,  if  he  is  honest,  will  change  the  subject  as 
rapidly  as  may  be. 

It  may  be  said  at  once  that  photography  in  the 
woods  must  be  either  the  principal  object  of  the 
outing  or  a  mere  adjunct.  If  the  former  it  is  evident 
that  all  preparations  must  be  made  with  that  object 
in  view,  and,  very  especially,  the  apparatus  must 
receive  the  greatest  attention.  Taking  for  granted 
that  my  readers  are  more  or  less  beginners,  their 

397 


398          The  Way  of  the  Woods 

efforts  having  been  confined  to  Kodak  work,  my 
advice  to  them,  in  case  they  wish  to  progress  in  the 
art,  is  to  purchase  a  camera  with  a  somewhat  better 
lens  than  they  have  been  using.  As  in  other  branches 
of  sport,  the  best  plan,  in  case  one  does  not  possess 
that  invaluable  friend  who  has  expert  knowledge  of 
the  subject,  is  to  write  for  catalogues  of  the  best  firms, 
such  as  the  Folmer  &  Schwing  Company  and  the 
Eastman  Kodak  Company,  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  and  to 
consult  a  reliable  dealer.  Those  who  desire  to  go  in 
seriously  for  nature  photography  should  purchase 
the  best  books  on  the  subject,  mentioned  in  the 
bibliography  at  the  end  of  this  chapter,  which  contain 
a  mass  of  practical  information  on  the  subject. 

Woods  photographers  may  be  divided  into  three 
classes.  The  first  comprises  those  who  take  along  a 
camera  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  home 
pictorial  souvenirs  of  the  trip,  camp- 
scenes,  portraits  of  their  companions,  etc.  The  second 
is  made  up  of  those  who  place  more  importance  on 
the  artistic  or  scientific  result  of  their  efforts,  and  who 
therefore  require  a  better,  quicker-working  lens. 
The  third  class  consists  of  the  experts  who  attempt 
such  difficult  feats  as  the  photographing  of  an  owl  or 
a  woodcock  on  the  nest,  or  of  wild-flowers  at  closest 
range,  or,  finally,  of  distant  mountain-goats  with  a 
telephoto  lens. 

For  the  members  of  the  first  class  some  kind  of 

a  Kodak  will  be  sufficient.     There  are   two   kinds, 

those  with  the  so-called  ''universal  focus " 

("Bull's-Eye,"   "Brownie,"  etc.),  and  the 

folding  Kodaks.     The  former,  which  are  the  cheaper 

ones,  do  not  have  to  be  adjusted  to  any  particular 


Photography  399 

distance  before  the  "  button  is  pressed,"  but  are 
always  in  focus.  The  lenses  are  naturally  not  of  the 
best,  but  when  the  light  is  good  some  very  clear 
work  can  be  done,  quite  capable  of  being  enlarged 
to  any  size.  The  Bull's-Eye  No.  2  or  the  Brownie 
No.  2A  may  be  recommended.  It  is  needless  to  say 
that  these  are  used  with  film-rolls,  which  can  be 
inserted  by  daylight.  The  folding  Kodaks  have  much 
better  lenses,  are  in  a  more  convenient  form  for  carry- 
ing, and  may  be  had  in  the  4  x  5,  4^  x  6  J,  and  5x7  sizes. 
Of  these  three  sizes  I  prefer  the  4x5,  the  others  being 
rather  bulky.  The  "Postal-card  size,"  3^x5^  is 
preferred  by  some.  These  cameras  are  provided 
with  focussing  scales,  showing  how  far  to  pull  out  the 
lens.  The  regular  lenses  provided  are  sufficient  for 
all  slow  work,  but  the  flying  bird  or  even  the  tossed 
pancake  will  be  but  blurs.  It  is  better  to  stretch  a 
point  and  have  the  new  camera  fitted  with  a  high- 
class  lens,  like  the  Bausch  &  Lomb  Zeiss  Tessar,  the 
Cooke  or  the  Goerz,  costing  (for  a  4  x  5)  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  $40,  with  which  the  most  difficult  pictures 
may  be  taken.  Nor  is  one  so  dependent  upon  brilliant 
light  as  with  the  cheaper  lenses.  The  folding  Kodaks 
are  carried  in  a  sole-leather  case  with  straps  for  the 
shoulders,  and  are  the  most  convenient  of  all  to 
transport.  A  portrait  attachment  lens  ($  .50)  is  very 
useful,  allowing  enlarged  pictures  of  objects  at  near 
distances  to  be  made. 

Booklets  of  instructions  are  furnished  with  Kodaks, 
and  it  is  well  to  have  one  along  and  not  to  depart  from 
its  rules.  In  spite  of  the  makers'  boast  that  the 
film-rolls  may  be  removed  and  renewed  in  broad 
daylight,  it  is  better  to  take  no  chances,  but  to  load 
and  unload  in  as  dim  a  light  as  one  can  see  in.  There 


400          The  Way  of  the  Woods 

should  be  some  kind  of  a  light  but  durable  case  to 
carry  single  rolls  in  while  in  the  woods,  but  I  know  of 
none.  If  on  an  easy  trip  I  generally  take  a  small 
supply  of  black  paper,  in  a  piece  of  which  I  wrap  the 
exposed  film-roll,  placing  it  then  in  the  cardboard 
box  from  which  the  new  roll  is  taken.  The  whole  is 
then  wrapped  up  in  whatever  material  is  handy  and 
deposited  in  the  knapsack  away  from  the  light.  The 
date  of  exposure  should  be  written  on  the  box.  One 
of  the  great  drawbacks  of  woods  photography  is  that 
the  incident  or  scene  which  one  is  apt  to  desire  to 
perpetuate  more  often  than  not  takes  place  in  a  bad 
light,  the  result  being  underexposed  and  indistinct. 
Such  a  picture  makes  a  bad  impression  in  an  album, 
though  it  may  nevertheless  form  an  important 
memory-hint  and  therefore  have  a  value  of  its  own. 
A  practical  and  convenient  method  of  carrying 

small  folding  cam- 
eras is  shown  in 
the  two  accompa- 
nying illustrations. 
FIG.  69. — Belt  with  camera  strap.  Fig.  69  represents 

an  ordinary  leather 

belt  to  which  a  strap  with  a  buckle  has  been  at- 
tached, which  is  run  through 
the  loops  at  the  back  of  the 
camera-case.  Fig.  70  shows  the 
manner  in  which  the  camera 
may  be  pushed  round  the  belt 
to  the  point  where  it  will  be  FlG<  70.— Camera-case 
least  in  the  way.  This  method  on  strap, 

was   described   by  a  writer   in 

Forest  and  Stream  and  has  the  endorsement  of  the 
editor  of  that  journal. 


t:v. 


w 

Ji 


Photography  401 

Though  scenes  which  require  no  very  quick  lens 
to  take  may  form  even  a  majority  of  the  pictures 
secured  on  the  ordinary  tour,  those  that  The  Graflex 
are  most  interesting  and  will  afterwards  Camera 
be  most  valued  are  the  snapshots  of  wild  animals 
and  birds;  and  the  amateur  will  speedily  discover 
that  with  cameras  that  require  the  lens  to  be  fixed 
at  a  certain  distance  from  the  object  it  is  a  very 
difficult  thing  to  get  the  focus  just  right,  i.  e.  the  object 
at  its  clearest.  To  do  this  a  so-called  ground-glass 
finder,  which  reflects  the  object  as  you  point  the  lens 
at  it,  is  necessary,  as  well  as  some  kind  of  appliance 
by  which  the  moving  object  can  constantly  be  kept 
in  focus.  There  are  several  cameras  which  do  this, 
the  best,  according  to  the  author  of  Nature  and  the 
Camera,  being  the  Graflex,  which  he  calls  "about  all 
that  can  be  wished  for."  There  are  several  varieties 
of  Graflex,  but  the  not  yet  very  expert  amateur  will 
be  satisfied  with  the  "Auto,"  with  which  the  photo- 
graphs reproduced  in  this  volume  were  mostly  made. 
With  this  instrument  in  his  hands  the  sportsman, 
looking  into  an  aperture  in  the  top,  can  distinctly  see 
the  movements  of  any  animal  or  bird,  while,  by 
regulating  the  distance  by  a  wheel  operated  in  his 
right  hand,  the  object  is  kept  continuously  in  clear 
focus.  The  left  hand  then  presses  a  knob  whenever 
it  is  desired  to  take  the  picture.  This  sureness  of 
having  the  object  in  perfect  focus  makes  all  the  dif- 
ference in  the  world.  The  Graflex,  like  the  Reflex, 
another  excellent  camera,  is  meant  to  be  used  with 
glass  plates,  but,  though  the  expert  ordinarily  prefers 
them,  it  is  evident  that  their  bulkiness,  liability  to 
get  broken,  etc.  render  them  less  convenient  than 
films,  which,  either  in  the  roll  form  or  the  cut  sheet 
26 


402          The  Way  of  the  Woods 

(so-called  " film-packs"),  can  be  used  as  well  as 
plates,  and  the  results  are  about  as  good.  The  Gra- 
flex  is  provided  with  both  a  film-holder  for  rolls  and 
a  film-pack  adapter  ($7. 50  and  $5  extra  respectively, 
in  the  4x5  size).  The  rolls  (of  six  exposures  only, 
each)  cost  $  .45  apiece;  the  film-packs  (twelve  expos- 
ures) $  .90  each,  both  for  the  4x5  size.  Of  good 
plates  there  are  many  makes,  and  it  will  be  well  to 
trust  one's  dealer.  If  plates  are  used  several  extra 
plate-holders  should  be  taken  along,  an  added  en- 
cumbrance on  a  long  trip.  Plates,  of  course,  can  only 
be  taken  from  the  original  box  and  placed  in  the 
holders  in  utter  darkness  or  by  ruby  light.  The 
former  method  is  sometimes  used  by  experts  in  the 
evening,  the  user  covering  himself,  plates,  and  holders 
with  a  blanket  to  ensure  perfect  darkness.  It  is  a 
matter  of  feeling  only,  and  should  not  be  attempted 
unless  one  is  perfectly  familiar  with  one's  apparatus. 
A  small  folding  ruby  lantern,  used  with  a  candle,  can 
be  taken  along  and  used  in  the  tent  at  night.  There 
should  be  no  camp-fire  near  by,  however. 

It  is  strongly  urged  that  no  developing  of  plates 
or  films  be  attempted  by  the  amateur  on  a  long  trip, 
the  exposed  views  being  carefully  kept 
>n^  until  the  return  home.  For  this  reason 
no  apparatus  should  be  taken  with  which  one  is  not 
quite  familiar,  else  it  cannot  be  known  what  mis- 
takes are  being  made.  If  field  development  is  in- 
sisted on,  either  a  bulky  outfit  for  plates  must  be  taken 
or  film-rolls  must  be  used  and  developed  with  a  Kodak 
Tank  Developing  Machine  ($6  for  size  4x5),  which 
can  be  done  by  daylight.  Developing  supplies, 
especially  put  up  for  this  tank,  may  be  had  of  all 


O 

UJ 

I 
I- 

0 

z 


§ 


I 


Photography  403 

dealers.  Personally  I  have  not  used  the  tank,  but 
there  is  no  doubt  that  excellent  results  have  been 
obtained  with  it.  In  permanent  camps  dark-rooms 
may  be  improvised,  the  usual  one  being  a  small  tent, 
but  to  avoid  accidents  it  should  be  used  only  at 
night.  No  directions  for  developing  need  be  given 
here,  as  there  are  numerous  excellent  pamphlets 
on  the  subject,  and  the  implements  needed  are  of 
infinite  variety. 

It  is  difficult  to  say  much  about  lenses  without 
becoming  technical  and  obscure.  The  catalogue 
of  such  firms  as  Bausch  &  Lomb  (Roch- 

.L6I1S6S 

ester,  N,  Y.),  C.  P.  Goerz  (52  E.  Union 
Square,  New  York),  and  Cooke  (Taylor,  Taylor  & 
Hobson,  1135  Broadway,  New  York)  will  give  the 
reader  clear  ideas  of  the  different  styles  and  their 
uses,  so  that  a  choice  can  be  made  according  to  the 
photographer's  needs.  To  give  an  idea  of  the  cost 
of  a  camera  for  ordinary  woods  work,  I  will  say  that 
the  4x5  Auto-Graflex  which  I  have  been  using, 
and  which  is  fitted  with  a  No.  5  Zeiss  Tessar  nB 
lens  and  has  a  leather  carrying  case  and  film-pack 
adapter,  cost,  inclusive,  $140,  the  price  of  the  lens 
alone  being  $40.  The  lens  may  be  bought  directly 
from  the  maker,  but  it  is  better  to  have  the  maker 
of  the  camera  buy  and  fit  the  lens  himself. 

One  great  advantage  of  the  Graflex  and  its  like 
over  the  smaller  cameras  is  the  focal-plane  shutter, 

which  is  merely  a  black  curtain  containing 
,-       x   .,.«.  .-,,  r      1  •  1          Shutters 

slits  of  different  widths,  any  one  of  which 

may  be  used,  according  to  the  desired  length  of  ex- 
posure, from  -I  to  joVg-  of  a  second.  This  possibility 


404          The  Way  of  the  Woods 

of  extreme  shortness  of  exposure  is  the  secret  of 
clear  instantaneous  pictures.  The  smaller  cameras 
are  fitted  with  "iris"  shutters,  which  really  only 
reduce  or  enlarge  the  influx  of  light  and  are  therefore 
not  fitted  for  very  quick  snapshots. 

If  you  are  able  to  approach  within  a  short  distance 
of  an  animal  the  ordinary  quick  lens,  say  with  a 
Long  Focal  focal  length  of  8J  inches  (Auto-Graflex), 
Length  i.e.  from  plate  to  lens,  will  be  found  sat- 
isfactory, but  at  the  distances  at  which  one  is  apt 
to  obtain  chance  interviews  with  the  kindred  of  the 
wild  the  pictures  secured  are  too  small.  For  this 
reason  the  experts  prefer  a  camera  with  a  long  focal 
lens,  such  as  the  "Naturalist's  Cameras,"  which 
have  a  focal  capacity  of  26  inches  and  can  be  used 
with  a  telephoto  lens  for  long-distance  work.  These 
magnificent  cameras  are  beyond  the  pocket-book 
of  all  but  the  well-to-do  or  the  professional  who  needs 
them  as  stock  in  trade,  for,  fitted  with  the  proper  lens, 
they  cost  not  far  from  $400,  the  telephoto  attachment 
costing  an  additional  $24.  This  last  magnifies  about 
three  diameters. 

Still  another  advantage '  demanded  by  experts  is 
the  reversible  or  swing  back,  which  enables  one  to 
bring  both  foreground  and  distance  into  simulta- 
neous focus.  Fronts  that  drop  and  rise  are  very 
convenient  for  photographing  objects  much  below 
or  above  the  camera. 

Tripods  are  seldom  taken  into  the  woods  by  any 

but  experts,  as  portraits  can  be  made  by  setting  the 

T  .     ,          camera   on   a   stump  or  pack-basket.      If 

one  is  used  let  it  be  a  strong  one,  and,  since 

it  may  be  needed  in  photographing  birds'  nests  or 


Photography  405 

other  such  objects,  it  should  have  fourfold  telescopic, 
extra  extension  legs. 

Having  provided  himself  with  his  long-focus 
camera,  having  a  reversible  and  swing  back  and  ris- 
ing front,  his  plate-holders,  chemicals,  field  implements 
developing  apparatus,  and  tripod,  the  real  of  the 

expert  now  supplies  himself  with  a  number  Expert 
of  minor  but  indispensable  articles,  among  which  are 
climbing-irons,  ball-and-socket  clamp  for  securing 
the  camera  to  trees,  green  cloth  to  mask  the  tripod, 
mirror  to  secure  reflected  light,  rope  to  pull  up  the 
apparatus,  a  hundred  feet  of  small  rubber  tubing 
and  a  rubber  bulb  for  operating  the  shutter  at  a 
distance,  focussing-cloth  (to  cover  head  and  camera), 
and  perhaps  a  false  tree-trunk  or  other  hiding-place 
made  of  cloth,  from  which  to  observe  the  timid  objects 
of  the  "hunt."  A  description  of  the  proper  use  of  all 
these  articles  would  take  us  much  too  far  afield,  but 
can  be  found  in  the  books  of  Mr.  Dugmore  and  Mr. 
Brownell,  without  which  the  amateur  will  hardly 
start  upon  such  difficult  task. 

The  use  of  the  flash-light  in  the  woods  requires 
much  experience.  Personally  I  have  made  a  failure 
of  it  through  lack  of  proper  preparation.  Flash-light 
The  apparatus  for  photographing  large  Pictures 
animals,  like  deer,  from  the  bow  of  a  canoe  is  an 
elaborate  one.  Descriptions  of  it  have  appeared  from 
time  to  time  in  the  sporting  magazines.  Another 
way  to  take  night  pictures  of  wild  creatures  is  to 
set  the  camera  at  a  certain  distance  from  a  runway 
or  other  haunt,  and  make  the  animal  itself  set  off 
the  flash-pistol  by  striking  a  wire  or  other  appliance. 


4o6          The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Herr  Schilling,  the  German  author  of  Flask-Lights 
in  the  Jungle,  and  Mr.  Geo.  W.  Shiras,  3d,  in  this 
country,  have  accomplished  very  remarkable  results 
in  this  branch  of  the  art. 

Nature  and  the  Camera,  by  A.  R.  Dugmore ;  Photo- 
graphy for  the  Sportsman  Naturalist,  by  L.  W.  Brownell ; 
Biblio-  Bird  Studies  with  a  Camera,  by  Frank 
graphy  M.  Chapman;  Bird  Homes,  by  A.  R. 
Dugmore. 

The  articles  by  Herbert  K.  Job  and  many  other 
nature  photographers,  many  of  which  have  appeared 
in  Outing  and  other  sporting  magazines,  are  highly 
interesting  and  profitable  reading  on  this  subject. 


CHAPTER  XXI 

HYGIENE,    MEDICINE,    AND    SURGERY 
HYGIENE 

WHILE  it  is  generally  true  that  the  traditional 
rules  of  hygiene  may  be  neglected  in  the  woods  with 
less  risk  than  in  town,  owing  principally  to  plenty 
of  exercise,  the  escape  from  quick  changes  of  tem- 
perature, and  the  comparative  scarcity  of  germs, 
it  is  nevertheless  foolish  to  take  chances.  One  can 
be  fairly  careful  of  one's  health,  avoiding  too  great 
risk  of  colds,  over-exertion,  and  accidents  without 
laying  oneself  open  to  the  charge  of  being  a  molly- 
coddle. If  the  camper  wears  wool  next  his  skin, 
does  his  full  share  of  the  daily  work  without  over- 
doing, and  keeps  his  bowels  open,  he  is  pretty  sure 
to  sleep  well,  enjoy  himself,  and  return  to  his  every- 
day work  with  renewed  strength  and  zest.  Getting 
wet  will  not  harm  the  healthy  person,  but  it  is  well 
not  to  expose  oneself  too  long  to  a  cold  wind  when 
wet,  nor  to  sleep  in  wet  clothes  or  blankets.  Such 
advice  must  be  given,  though  I  myself  have  done 
all  those  things  and  thus  far  never  taken  cold  in 
consequence  of  them.  Of  course  if  the  camper  is  an 
invalid,  or  temporarily  run  down  in  health,  he  must 
be  doubly  careful.  One  reason  why  plenty  of  phy- 
sical exercise  should  be  taken  is,  that  the  appetite  is 
apt  to  increase  alarmingly  and  the  unwonted  amount 

407 


408          The  Way  of  the  Woods 

of  food  must  be  digested.  Many  campers  find  that 
they  cannot  sleep  well  for  several  nights  on  going 
into  camp.  This  is  partly  on  account  of  novel  sur- 
roundings and  partly  in  consequence  of  eating  too 
much.  Later  on  it  will  not  matter,  but  for  a  few  days 
it  is  better  to  eat  moderately  and  to  masticate  thor- 
oughly. This  rule,  of  course,  is  one  of  the  last  to  be 
observed,  but  let  it  stand.  Many  campers  are  more 
or  less  plagued  with  constipation,  owing  principally 
to  the  change  of  diet.  Plenty  of  drinking-water  and 
exercise,  aided  perhaps  by  a  grain  or  two  of  cascara, 
will  generally  remedy  this.  It  is  well  to  drink  a  lot 
of  water,  good  water,  except  on  a  long  march,  as 
when  still-hunting,  when  little  liquid  should  be 
swallowed,  though  the  mouth  may  be  rinsed  out 
frequently. 

It  is  next  to  impossible  to  get  a  hot  bath  in  the 
woods,  as  not  even  that  tenderfoot  anomaly  the 
folding  bathtub  is  deep  enough  to  afford  a  real  soak ; 
but  hot  baths  are  by  no  means  so  necessary  to  the 
woodsman,  at  least  from  the  hygienic  standpoint,  as 
to  the  plaster-dweller,  for  the  good  reason  that  the 
former  sweats,  or  should  sweat,  daily  and  copiously. 
Plenty  of  cold  rubbings  will  keep  him  clean,  as  well 
as  full  attention  to  the  scrubbing  of  his  underwear. 
Those  who  are  hardy  enough  should  take  a  plunge 
in  the  lake  or  stream  on  rising,  no  matter  how  cold 
the  water  is,  but  the  rheumatic  or  otherwise  vul- 
nerable should  confine  themselves  to  a  cold  sponge 
off  in  the  tent,  or  enter  the  lake  when  the  sun  is  high. 

Over-exertion  is  a  weakness  peculiar  to  the  young, 
who  would  rather  " crack"  than  acknowledge  being 
tired;  very  foolish,  no  doubt,  but  "what 's  the  use?" 
The  preacher  may,  however,  allow  himself  to  say 


Hygiene,  Medicine,  and  Surgery     409 

that  it  is  far  less  meritorious  to  boast  that  you  have 
carried  a  canoe  a  mile  without  resting,  than  that 
you  have  done  so  with  numerous  rests  but  have 
finished  perfectly  fresh.  The  obvious  remedy — and 
this  cannot  be  harped  on  enough — is  to  take  frequent 
rests,  even  if  of  short  duration.  It  is  wonderful  how 
even  a  half  minute's  pause  and  shift  of  the  packs  on 
the  carry  will  brace  a  man  up. 

He  who  wishes  to  secure  needed  recuperation  during 
a  limited  stay  in  the  forest  should  see  to  it  that  his 
bed  is  as  comfortable  as  can  be  made.  If  he  has  no 
air-bed  let  him  spend  a  half-hour  cutting  fir-boughs. 
Let  the  "tough"  camper  "throw  himself  down 
anywhere"  and  sleep  with  a  rock  or  two  under  his 
kidneys.  Untroubled  sleep  the  camper  must  have. 
And  let  him  avoid  stimulants.  Now  is  the  time  to 
drop  them,  for  in  the  city  he  has  to  absorb  more  than 
enough.  Of  course  it  is  a  matter  of  the  capacity 
and  condition  of  the  individual,  but  in  general  some 
one  of  the  "detannated "  coffees,  which  are  com- 
paratively harmless  while  tasting  "just  as  good  as  the" 
most  injurious,"  may  be  recommended,  and  alcohol 
should  be  used  sparingly  if  at  all.  The  man  is  foolish 
who  takes  it  habitually  in  camp,  though  a  wee  nippie 
on  a  festive  occasion,  or  when  tired  out  or  wet  through, 
is  legitimate  and  wholesome. 

CAMP    REMEDIES 

The  question  how  much  medicine  to  take  into  camp 
must  be  answered  according  to  the  size  of  the  party 
and  the  projected  length  of  the  stay.  As  different 
individuals  are  apt  to  be  persecuted  by  different  ills 
it  is  better  for  each  person  to  take  what  he  needs* 


4io  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

unless  a  common  medicine-chest,  filled  by  some  expert 
member  of  the  party,  is  agreed  upon.  Basing  my 
recommendations  upon  the  opinions  of  half  a  dozen 
well-known  physicians  and  woodsmen,  as  well  as 
upon  my  own  experience,  I  have  made  the  following 
list  of  medicines  for  one  man  for  a  two  weeks'  trip 
far  from  physicians: 

A  laxative  (say  i  dozen  3 -grain  cascara  pills,  sugar-,  not 
chocolate-coated.  A  pill  may  be  divided  for  a  small  dose). 

i  dozen  2-grain  quinine  pills  (fever,  etc.). 

A  small  vial  of  laudanum  (diarrhoea,  etc.). 

Half  dozen  5 -grain  antipyrin  pills  (neuralgia,  headache, 
severe  toothache,  etc.). 

Vial  of  strong  ammonia  (insect-bites,  etc.).  (Vials  with 
screw-off  tops  and  tiny  sponge  attached  are  the  best.) 

Large  tube  of  carbolised  vaseline. 

Small  box  of  bicarbonate  of  soda. 

Vial  tincture  of  arnica. 

Half  dozen  mustard-plasters. 

TREATMENT  OF  CAMP  ILLS 

Nose-bleed.  Not  harmful  unless  too  profuse.  Lie  down 
and  apply  a  piece  of  cold  metal  or  cloth  dipped  in  cold  water 
to  the  nape  of  the  neck.  If  ineffectual  snuff  up  salt  and  water ; 
then  plug  the  nose  with  cotton. 

Chills.  Take  a  hot  drink  and  wrap  up,  toasting  the  feet 
before  the  fire.  Change  to  dry  clothing  as  soon  as  possible. 

Colds.  Colds  are  seldom  the  result  of  camp  life,  but  are 
generally  brought  into  the  woods  from  town.  Keep  warm 
and  dry  and  avoid  changes  of  temperature.  Keep  the  bowels 
open  and  sleep  warm,  using  a  hot-water-bottle  if  at  hand. 
If  you  are  robust  the  lumberman's  cure  is  efficacious:  Take 
a  hot  drink  at  night  on  going  to  bed,  perhaps  with  a  drop  of 
lemon- juice  and  a  "stick,"  and  sleep  with  extra  clothes  on  to 
induce  a  copious  sweat. 

Sore  Feet.  Oft-bathed  feet  seldom  get  sore,  and  in  the  woods 
involuntary  baths  are  the  rule,  so  that  even  a  slovenly  person 
keeps  his  feet  soft.  If  they  do  get  sore,  perhaps  from  wearing 
moccasins  for  the  first  time  on  stony  ground,  they  should 


Hygiene,  Medicine,  and  Surgery     411 

be  soaked  and  rubbed  with  tallow,  soap,  or  vaseline.  If  on 
a  long  tramp  it  is  better  to  give  them  a  partial  rest  for  a  day, 
as  a  serious  stone-bruise  is  apt  to  deprive  such  a  trip  of  most 
of  its  fun.  Coat  the  inside  of  the  socks  with  soap.  Cover  a 
badly  chafed  spot  with  surgeon's  plaster. 

Constipation  may  be  treated  with  a  moderate  dose  of 
cascara  or  other  laxative;  plenty  of  water  should  be  drunk 
and  an  extra  portion  of  stewed  fruit  or  preserves  eaten. 

Diarrhoea  may  be  combated  with  a  light  dose  of  cascara, 
followed,  after  each  passage,  by  ten  drops  of  laudanum. 

Malaria  is  rare  in  the  north  woods.    Quinine  may  be  taken. 

For  Fever  give  5  grains  of  quinine  daily ;  more  if  severe.  Keep 
the  bowels  open,  and  do  not  cover  up  too  warmly. 

Sleeplessness  is  usually  a  matter  either  of  nerves  or  of 
indigestion.  If  the  latter  the  remedy  is  plain:  a  pill  and 
abstemiousness.  If  the  former:  lots  of  work.  Never  mind 
if  you  do  lie  awake  a  little.  There  is  a  charm  about  that, 
watching  the  camp-fire  die  out  and  listening  to  all  the  mys- 
terious noises  of  the  night.  (Read  S.  E.  White  s  fine  chapter 
in  The  Forest.) 

Lumbago,  Local  Stiffness,  etc.  Rubbings  (with  arnica),  hot 
applications,  mustard-plasters. 

Ivy-Poisoning.  Poisoning  from  contact  with  poison-ivy 
(rhus  radicans)  or  its  cousin  the  poison-sumac  (rhus  vernix) 
is  best  treated  by  rubbing  the  affected  parts  with  copking- 
soda  (or  baking-powder)  and  water.  Washing  soda  (car- 
bonate) will  not  do;  bicarbonate  is  needed.  If  no  soda  is 
handy  use  a  strong  lye  of  wood-ashes,  or  salt  and  water.  I 
have  seen  wonderfully  quick  cures  of  bad  cases  effected  by 
applications  of  whiskey.  Alder  bark  chewed  up  was  one  of 
the  old  woods  remedies. 

Sunstroke  must  be  treated  by  lowering  the  temperature 
of  the  body.  Remove  most  of  the  patient's  clothing  and 
place  him  in  a  cool,  airy  place.  Apply  cold  water  to  the 
forehead,  chest,  and  armpits.  Dash  him  with  cold  water, 
but  not  too  cold.  Keep  him  cool  until  he  recovers. 

Emetics.  In  case  an  emetic  is  needed  tickle  the  throat 
and  drink  large  quantities  of  lukewarm  water.  If  this  does 
not  suffice  mix  a  spoonful  of  mustard  in  the  water.  Gun- 
powder and  warm  water  is  a  good  emetic,  but  nowadays 
black  gunpowder  is  seldom  to  be  had  in  camp. 


412  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Burns  of  a  light  nature  are  treated  by  applying  cloths 
soaked  in  a  solution  of  baking-soda  (bicarbonate),  a  tea- 
spoonful  to  a  half-pint  of  water;  or  the  soda  may  be  rubbed 
on  dry.  The  white  of  an  egg  and  carbolised  vaseline  are 
also  good. 

If  the  burn  is  severe  prick  any  blisters  that  may  rise  and 
apply  dressings  of  sweet  oil,  or,  as  that  is  almost  never  to  be 
found  in  camp,  with  vaseline.  If  any  part  of  the  clothing 
has  a  tendency  to  stick  to  the  flesh  do  not  attempt  to  remove 
it,  or  the  flesh  may  tear  off  with  it.  Pour  oil  on  it,  gun-oil, 
if  nothing  else  is  at  hand,  and  it  will  gradually  come  off  of 
itself.  If  the  patient  has  received  a  mental  shock  30  drops 
of  laudanum  may  be  given  him  (to  a  child  as  many  drops 
as  he  has  years).  Keep  the  wounds  dressed  with  oil,  or  any 
oily  substance  free  from  salt. 

Scalds  may  be  treated  in  like  fashion. 

Frostbite  is  treated  by  restoring  the  temperature  gradually 
to  the  normal  99°  Fahrenheit.  Rub  the  bitten  parts,  soak 
them  in  fairly  hot  water,  and  apply  warm  wet  cloths.  If 
you  are  in  the  woods  far  from  camp,  rub  the  afflicted  part 
vigorously  with  snow  if  there  is  any.  If  not,  it  does  n't  matter, 
for,  contrary  to  the  belief  of  the  old  woodsmen,  it  is  the 
rubbing  and  not  the  snow  that  does  the  trick.  By  the  same 
token  warm  water  is  far  better  than  cold  for  frosted  feet. 

A  badly  frozen  person  should  be  treated  with  great  care, 
the  normal  temperature  being  restored  very  gradually.  Wrap 
him  in  well-heated  blankets  and  rub  hands  and  feet  with 
your  own  hands. 

Rheumatic  persons  had  better  bring  a  little  of  their  favour- 
ite liniment  with  them,  as  well  as  a  few  flannel  bandages. 

Persons  liable  to  serious  attacks  of  illness  should  not 
venture  far  from  their  physicians.  Healthy  people  can  in 
most  cases  throw  off  mild  attacks;  courage  has  a  lot  to  do 
with  the  cure. 


SURGERY 

In  addition  to  the  above-named  medical  remedies 
the  following  list  of  surgical  supplies  should  be  in 
every  camp  far  from  civilization: 


Hygiene,  Medicine,  and  Surgery    413 

Pair  of  dressing  forceps. 

Three  or  four  surgeon's  needles  (straight  and  curved). 

A  yard  or  two  of  two  sizes  of  surgeon's  silk,  and  a  few 
catgut  ligatures,  in  a  tube. 

One  first-aid  packet  for  each  person. 

One  medium  small  surgeon's  knife  or  scalpel. 

One  hypodermic  syringe.  Have  in  its  case:  Tube  of 
cocain-morphine  tablets,  tube  of  morphine-atropine  tadlets, 
and  tube  of  strychnine-sulphate  tablets. 

A  quantity  of  2 -inch  surgeon's  adhesive  plaster. 

One  dozen  bichloride  of  mercury  tablets.  (One  in  a  quart  of 
water  gives  an  antiseptic  solution  for  wounds.) 

Small  vial  dioxygen. 

Small  box  boric  acid  powder. 

WOUNDS 

Among  accidents  necessitating  surgical  treatment 
are  wounds,  fractures,  and  sprains. 

Wounds  may  be  either  contused  (a  "black  eye"), 
incised  (plain  cuts),  lacerated  (ragged  tears),  punc- 
tured (with  fish-hook  or  nail)  or  gunshot  wounds. 

Contusions.  Contused  or  bruised  wounds  are  the  result 
of  hard  knocks  with  or  against  blunt  surfaces;  the  skin  may 
or  may  not  be  ruptured.  Discoloration  often  sets  in, 
owing  to  the  escape  of  the  blood  from  small  vessels 
under  the  skin.  If  the  skin  is  not  broken  but  the  bruise  is 
very  painful  treat  it  with  cold  wet  cloths  or  vaseline.  After 
the  pain  has  subsided  use  hot  cloths  or,  better  at  first,  lauda- 
num and  water.  If  the  skin  is  broken  get  all  dirt  and  foreign 
substances  out  of  the  wound  and  apply  warm  cloths.  Do 
not  close  the  wound,  but  treat  with  vaseline  or  some  other 
ointment  for  several  days. 

Cuts.  Slight  cuts  may  be  washed,  covered  with  a  vase- 
lined  cloth,  and  tied  up  securely;  they  will  usually  heal 
from  "first  intention"  without  any  show  of  pus.  If 
the  cut  is  of  any  size,  but  not  deep,  bring  the  edges 
together  after  the  bleeding  has  stopped  and  keep  them  in 


414  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

that  position  by  placing  one  or  more  strips  of  surgeon's 
plaster  across  the  cut,  not  lengthwise  with  it.  This  leaves 
space  for  the  escape  of  pus  if  any  forms.  No  deep  cut  should 
be  completely  closed  up  on  any  account. 

If  a  severe  cut  bleeds  excessively  note  whether  the  blood 
is  dark  and  comes  steadily  (from  a  vein),  or  in  spurts  and  is 
light  (from  an  artery).  If  from  a  vein  the  danger  is  less. 
Keep  the  wounded  part  raised  and  press  on  the  wound  with 
clean  cloth  or  piece  of  gauze,  soaked  in  cold  water  if  the 
bleeding  will  not  stop;  if  still  in  vain  put  a  tight  bandage 
(tourniquet  or  "Spanish  windlass")  near  the  wound  but  on 
the  side  farthest  from  the  heart,  as  venous  blood  flows 
towards  the  heart. 

If  the  bleeding  is  from  an  artery  (from  the  heart)  it  is  a 
more  serious  matter.  If  the  flow  is  rapid  wash  your  hands 
as  quickly  as  possible  and  check  the  bleeding  (after  elevating 
the  wound)  by  pressure  with  thumb  and  finger.  A  knowledge 
of  the  position  of  the  larger  arteries  will  be  of  great  assistance 
here,  for  a  pressure  at  the  right  place  will  arrest  bleeding 
at  once  in  most  cases.  If  the  flow  will  not  stop  make  a  tour- 
niquet (see  below)  next  the  wound  and  on  the  side  nearest 
the  heart,  from  which  the  blood  is  rushing.  If  the  artery 
is  an  important  one  and  the  loss  of  blood  threatens  to  become 
serious,  it  must  be  tied  up  at  all  hazards,  and,  though  in  most 
cases  there  will  be  nobody  present  who  has  ever  done  such  a 
thing,  somebody  must  pull  himself  together  and  nerve  him- 
self to  the  task,  which  in  itself  is  not  so  bad.  It  consists  in 
washing  the  cut  free  from  blood,  discovering  the  bleed- 
ing end  of  the  artery,  getting  hold  of  it  with  the  forceps 
and  tying  up  the  end  with  catgut.  To  do  this  the  catgut  is 
looped  round  the  handle  of  forceps  doubly,  and  the  loose 
loop  pushed  down  the  handle  and  over  the  end  of  the  artery, 
where  it  is  drawn  tight.  This  can  best  be  done  by  another 
person.  Then  wash  the  wound  with  a  solution  of  bichloride  of 
mercury,  and  put  on  the  lintine  from  the  first-aid  packet, 
binding  it  down  with  one  of  the  first-aid  bandages.  If  the 
edges  of  the  wound  do  not  close,  or  the  cut  is  very  deep, 
they  will  have  to  be  sewn  up  with  silk,  starting  the  needle 
J  inch  from  the  edge  and  going  to  the  other  end  of  the  wound. 
Then  dress  as  above. 

It  is  needless  to  warn  against  handling  the  flesh  with  the 


Hygiene,  Medicine,  and  Surgery     415 

hands  and  allowing  any  dirt  to  get  into  the  wound.  If  it  is 
absolutely  necessary  to  use  the  hand  wash  it  in  the  solution. 

All  bad  wounds  require  rest.  Take  no  chances  when  far 
from  surgical  aid.  Blood-poisoning  would  be  a  very  bad 
business. 

The  accompanying  cuts  will  show  how  tourniquets  can  be 
made  of  handkerchiefs  or  braces  and  billets  of  wood.  Place 
a  pebble  directly  over  the  artery.  They  should  not  be  kept 
on  longer  than  necessary. 


FlG.  71.  —  Tourni- 
quet, for  Stopping 
Bleeding  from  a 
Forearm  Artery. 
(From  Johnson  and 
Johnson's  Hand-book 
of  First  Aid.) 


FIG.  72. -Span- 
ish Windlass, 
to  Stop  Bleed- 
ing from  Arm 
Arteries. 
(Hand-book  of 
First  Aid.) 


FIG.  73. — Windlass, 
to  Stop  Bleeding 
from  a  Th  i  g  h 
Artery.  (Black  line 
shows  course  of 
Artery.)  (Hand-book 
of  First  Aid.) 


Leave  the  dressing  on  for  one  or  two  days  in  case  every- 
thing seems  to  be  well,  and  then  examine  the  wound.  If 
there  is  no  inflammation  dress  and  bandage  again.  Take  out 
the  stitches  at  the  end  of  a  week.  In  two  or  three  days 
there  will  likely  be  a  flow  of  pus,  which  must  be  allowed 
egress  by  daily  dressings. 


4i 6  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

If  there  is  no  surgeon's  silk  or  needle  in  camp,  ordinary 
silk  or  even  cotton  thread  will  do,  and  an  ordinary  needle, 
but  the  thread  should  be  boiled  for  five  minutes  before  use. 
Do  not  stitch  the  scalp,  and  in  general  avoid  stitching  if 
possible,  as  nasty  scars  may  result.  Shave  or  cut  off  all  hair 
that  interferes  with  plaster  or  stitching. 

If  the  patient  feels  faint  give  him  a  little  hot  brandy  or 
whiskey  from  time  to  time. 

In  surgical  work  of  all  kinds  the  hypodermic  syringe  may 
be  used  to  great  advantage  (See  below.) 

Lacerations.  Lacerated  wounds  should  be  cleansed  of 
all  dirt  and  washed  with  a  solution  of  bichloride  of  mercury. 
Then  treat  with  cloths  wet  with  laudanum,  and  afterwards 
apply  the  dressing  and  bandage  from  the  first-aid  packet. 

This  is  a  cure-all  for  wounds  with  some,  who  dress  the 
B  r"    Acid    wounc^s  with  it,  stuffing  them  full  of  the  acid. 
It  is  good  and  handy. 

Punctures.  If  a  needle  breaks  off  deep  in  the  flesh  do 
•»•  «  not  attempt  to  recover  the  buried  part.  Keep 

the   other  part  and  seek  the  aid  of  a  surgeon 
as  soon  as  possible. 

Punctures    with    nails    and    such     things,     especially     if 

rusty,  should  be  squeezed  and  hot  water  poured  into   the 

«.  .,  hole.     If  too  small  this  may  be  slightly  enlarged. 

Then  rub  in  vaseline.     Keep  the  wound  open 

for  a  few  days. 

If  the  barb  of  a  fish-hook  becomes  embedded  in  the  flesh 

remove  the  line  and  cut  or  file  off  the  broad  end  of  the  hook. 

F*  h  h     k     Then  push  the  barb  on  through  the  flesh.     Wash 

and  dress  with  vaseline.     The  hypodermic  may 

be  used  here. 

Small  splinters  are  removed  with  a  needle.     Those  under 

the  nails  are  frequently  awkward  and  very  painful.     Scrape 

c  «.    .  the  nail  as  thin  as  possible  over  the  splinter; 

cut  a  little  piece  out  in  order  to  get  hold  of  the 

splinter  with  the  forceps  or  your  fly-nippers. 


Hygiene,  Medicine,  and  Surgery     417 

Sprains,  if  slight,  need  only  to  be  rubbed  well  and  allowed 
a  rest.  A  sprained  ankle  can  be  walked  off,  but  this  is  a  very 
dangerous  experiment,  and  by  no  means  to  be  recommended. 
Severe  sprains  are  treated  with  hot  water,  either  by  immers- 
ing the  sprained  part  in  as  hot  water  as  can  be  borne,  or  by 
hot  applications  often  renewed.  A  badly  sprained  wrist 
should  be  kept  between  padded  splints. 

Insect-bites.  Treat  with  a  drop  of  ammonia  as  soon  as  the 
bite  is  felt.  Failing  ammonia,  rub  with  raw  onion,  with  soda 
and  vinegar  mixed,  or  plain  soda,  or,  finally,  salt. 

Snake-bites.  If  non-poisonous  treat  as  if  an  insect-bite. 
If  poisonous  tie  a  handkerchief  or  some  other  ligature  round 
the  bitten  member  between  it  and  the  heart  to  stop  the 
circulation  of  the  poison.  Suck  the  wound  immediately  and 
then  cauterise  it  with  a  hot  iron,  hot  enough  actually  to  burn 
the  flesh.  Take  a  few  good  drinks  of  whiskey  and  pour 
ammonia  into  the  bite.  The  whiskey  braces  the  patient  up 
and  destroys  any  tendency  to  fear,  which  is  the  worst  state 
for  him  to  be  in.  There  is  generally  no  cause  for  worry  in  the 
north  woods,  even  if  bitten  by  a  rattler,  as  death  very  seldom 
results,  a  badly  swollen  arm  or  leg  being  the  worst  to  be 
apprehended.  If  in  a  snake  country,  take  permanganate  of 
potash,  which,  after  making  a  tourniquet  and  allowing  the 
wound  to  bleed  freely,  should  be  injected. 

Bites  of  Dogs,  Cats,  Rats,  etc.  Suck  the  wound  and  treat 
it  with  carbolised  vaseline.  If  there  is  any  chance  of  the 
dog  being  diseased  wash  the  wound  first  thoroughly.  The 
dread  of  the  severe  consequences  of  a  dog-bite  is  generally 
quite  unnecessary.  The  scratch  of  a  cat  is  apt  to  be  more 
dangerous,  as  the  claws  may  be  contaminated  with  carrion 
or  other  rotten  matter. 

Infected  wounds.  If  there  is  reason  to  fear  infection  keep 
the  wound  open  to  permit  discharges.  If  fever  should  be 
present  give  a  cathartic  and  daily  doses  of  5  grains  of  quinine. 
(Half  to  a  child.) 

Dislocations.  If  a  joint  becomes  dislocated  there  will  be 
pain  and  comparative  immobility;  the  pain  is  from  torn 
ligaments.  A  finger  out  of  joint  can  usually  be  replaced 
by  pulling.  A  thumb  is  far  more  obstinate ;  pulling 
hardly  ever  helps.  Bend  it  far  back  towards  the  wrist  and 
press  at  the  same  time  against  the  base  of  the  dislocated 
27 


4i 8  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

bone,  "pushing  it  away  from  the  wrist  and  downward 
towards  the  palm."  (Dulles.)  To  reduce  a  dislocation  of 
the  jaw:  Cover  the  thumbs  with  cots  or  wear  gloves;  seize 
the  sides  of  the  patient's  jaw  with  thumbs  and  fingers,  the 
thumbs  resting  on  the  teeth  and  the  fingers  under  the  jaw. 
Now  press  very  firmly,  first  downwards  and  then  backwards. 
Be  quick  to  withdraw  the  thumbs  as  the  jaw  slips  into  place, 
or  they  may  be  badly  bitten.  To  replace  a  dislocated  shoulder: 
Lay  the  patient  down,  remove  your  boot  and  sit  down  by 
him  face  to  face  ;  place  one  heel  in  his  armpit  and  pull 
the  arm  into  place.  If  this  does  not  succeed  easily  better 
wait  for  a  surgeon,  which  should  also  be  done  in  case  of 
other  dislocated  joints,  such  as  the  back  or  legs.  Treat  the 
dislocation  with  laudanum  and  cold  water  and  hunt  up  a 
physician. 

Fractures  are  called  simple  when  the  skin  is  not  broken; 
compound  when  the  bone  cuts  through  the  skin  and  com- 
municates with  the  air.  Unless  somebody  of  experience  in 
such  matters  is  in  camp  nothing  but  emergency  treatment 
should  be  attempted.  This  consists  of  placing  round  the 
limb  cold  bandages,  to  prevent  swelling,  and  then  putting  it 
in  splints.  In  the  case  of  a  compound  fracture  it  must  first 
be  washed  with  the  antiseptic  solution,  like  any  wound.  If 
you  are  far  from  any  surgical  aid  and  your  judgment  tells 
you  that  something  must  be  done  to  set  the  bone,  get  the 
necessary  splints  and  bandages  ready,  and  then  pull  on  each 
side  of  the  fracture,  as  much  as  possible  in  a  direct  line  along 
the  direction  of  the  bone,  until  the  broken  parts  come  together. 
Pull  steadily  and  do  not  twist.  This  is  not  so  difficult  with  a 
broken  arm.  Grasp  the  hand  in  one  of  yours,  and  with  the 
other  seize  his  arm  above  the  break  and  pull.  The  thigh 
is  easier  to  treat  than  the  calf,  having  but  a  single  bone. 
In  case  no  setting  can  be  done,  and  after  treating  with  cold 
compresses  for  half  an  hour,  get  the  broken  part  into  splints 
to  hold  it  in  place  and  prevent  injury  and  pain  while  moving 
the  patient.  Lose  no  time  in  getting  a  surgeon. 

Splints  should  be  light  but  sufficiently  strong,  and  should 
always  be  a  little  longer  than  the  injured  limb.  The  best 
shape  is  that  of  a  light  board,  but  many  other  things  will 
do,  as  stiff  bark,  parts  of  wooden  fishing-rod-form  split  up, 
sticks,  etc.  Anyone  handy  with  the  hatchet  can  make  the 


Hygiene,  Medicine,  and  Surgery    419 

proper  thing  in  a  jiffy.  Padding  is  always  necessary.  Pads 
may  be  made  of  anything  soft,  dry  moss  doing  very  well  in 
default  of  plenty  of  cloth  or  cotton.  Do  not  bind  the  splints 
on  so  tightly  as  to  hinder  circulation.  If  the  break  is  a  very 
bad  one  an  imitation  of  the  surgical  "fracture-box",  may  be 
made  of  a  tube  of  some  stiff  bark,  in  which  the  limb  is  firmly 
encased  after  swathing  with  paddings. 

TRANSPORTATION 

Injured  persons  should  be  carried  in  litters  made 
from  poles  and  canvas,  or  a  sleeping-bag  or  blanket. 
Those  carrying  the  litter  should  not  keep  step,  a  rule 
easy  to  adhere  to  in  the  woods. 

USE  OF  THE  HYPODERMIC  SYRINGE 

A  good  syringe  in  an  aluminum  case  costs  about 
$2.25.  The  following  directions  are  condensed  from 
the  article  by  Dr.  H.  Plympton  in  the  catalogue  of 
Messrs.  Abercrombie  &  Fitch,  by  permission  of  that 
firm. 

Dr.  Plympton  gives  four  remedies  for  use  in  the 
syringe,  but  one  of  them,  potassium  permanganate, 
for  venomous  bites,  is  hardly  necessary  in  the  north 
woods.  The  other  three  are: 

Cocaine-morphine  tablets  (cocaine,  J  grain  ;  morphine, 
^jy  grain;  soda  chloride,  £  grain. 

Morphine  tablets,  J  grain  each. 

Strychnia         "     -fa  grain  each. 

The  object  of  hypodermic  medication  is  to  get  the  remedy 
into  the  blood  as  quickly  as  possible  and  to  introduce  it  as 
near  as  may  be  to  the  seat  of  injury  or  the  pain.  To  insure 
its  rapid  assimilation  by  the  blood,  the  medicine  should  be 
injected  just  between  the  skin  and  the  muscles  underneath; 
in  other  words,  into  the  fat. 

Use.  Dissolve  the  tablet  to  be  used  in  the  proper  amount 
of  water,  or  put  any  solution  to  be  used  into  a  teaspoon  or 


420  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

what  you  may  have  that  will  hold  it.  A  leaf  properly  folded 
will  do;  even  the  hollow  of  the  hand  in  an  emergency.  You 
will  find  a  fine  wire  run  through  the  hollow  needle  to  keep 
it  clear.  Remove  this.  Remove  the  cap  from  the  end  of 
the  syringe  and  suck  up  the  solution  from  the  teaspoon  by 
drawing  out  the  piston  of  the  syringe.  Screw  the  needle 
firmly  on  the  end  of  the  syringe  from  which  the  cap  was 
removed.  Hold  the  syringe  with  the  needle  pointing  upwards 
and  press  gently  on  the  piston  until  the  fluid  begins  to  come 
out  of  the  needle.  This  is  to  force  all  the  air  out  of  the  syringe. 

Now  take  up  a  fold  or  pinch  of  skin  between  the  thumb 
and  forefinger,  insert  the  needle  with  a  rotary  motion  of  the 
syringe,  as  when  boring  a  hole  with  an  awl,  being  careful  not 
to  press  on  the  piston  while  so  doing.  Keep  the  needle  in  a 
line  with  the  line  of  the  fold  and  it  will  be  in  correct  position. 

The  needle  will  slip  through  the  skin  quickly  and  almost 
painlessly.  Push  it  in  its  full  length.  Now  press  firmly  on 
the  piston  and  force  it  in  slowly  until  the  contents  have  been 
injected,  being  careful  to  keep  the  syringe  in  position.  With- 
draw the  needle,  and  with  the  thumb  press  on  the  little  hole 
made  by  the  needle;  with  the  first  and  second  fingers  rub 
the  swelling  made  by  the  injected  fluid  for  a  few  moments 
and  it  will  disappear,  leaving  nothing  but  a  tiny  red  spot. 

Location.  If  the  injection  be  made  between  the  skin  and 
the  muscles,  as  described,  it  may  be  made  anywhere  on  the 
body,  although  just  over  a  bone  that  is  close  to  the  surface, 
as  the  shin  bone,  or  on  the  back  of  the  hand,  are  places  to 
be  avoided.  Also  in  the  bend  of  the  elbows  and  knees  and 
in  the  armpits  are  vessels  that  would  be  injured  by  the  careless 
use  of  the  syringe.  The  outside  of  the  forearm  or  the  upper 
arm,  and  calf  of  the  leg,  or  the  thigh,  the  big  muscles  of  the 
buttocks,  and  the  shoulders,  and  anywhere  on  the  back  are 
all  places  where  the  needle  may  be  used  without  hesitation. 

A  short  needle,  three  eighths  of  an  inch  long,  accompanies 
most  outfits,  and  this  may  be  used  without  taking  up  a  fold 
of  the  skin;  simply  jabbed  quickly  and  firmly  as  deep  as  it 
will  go  straight  into  any  one  of  the  big  muscles. 

The  dangers  in  the  use  of  the  hypodermic  are  practically 
nothing.  Exercise  the  same  amount  of  care  as  in  administer- 
ing medicine  by  the  mouth  and  no  harm  can  be  done;  and, 
as  in  the  case  of  a  rattlesnake  wound,  the  advantages  are  so 


Hygiene,  Medicine,  and  Surgery     421 

immeasurably  ahead  of  any  treatment  by  the  mouth,  even 
if  it  were  dangerous,  it  would  be  worth  taking  the  chance. 

Precautions.  Be  sure  that  the  tablet  is  thoroughly  dissolved, 
or  you  may  force  a  piece  into  the  needle  and  spoil  it.  Ten 
drops  of  water  will  dissolve  any  one  tablet,  and  fifteen  will 
suffice  for  any  two,  especially  if  the  water  be  warm.  Do 
not  use  more  than  this,  unless  by  direction.  After  using 
the  syringe,  and  before  removing  the  needle,  draw  up  some 
water  and  eject  it  to  clear  the  needle.  A  little  vaseline 
or  gun  grease  on  the  wire  will  prevent  the  needle  from 
rusting. 

For  minor  surgical  operations  the  cocaine  and  morphine 
tablet  should  be  used  as  follows:  Dissolve  one  tablet  in  one 
teaspoonful  of  water  and  take  up  a  syringe ful  of  the  solution. 
Inject  half  the  quantity  under  the  skin,  not  deep,  where  the 
cut  is  to  be  made.  Almost  immediately  the  skin  will  become 
waxlike — this  will  indicate  that  the  part  is  benumbed,  so 
that  an  incision  can  be  made  without  causing  pain.  Make 
a  sufficient  number  of  injections  to  cover  the  part  to  be  cut. 
The  surface  benumbed  by  each  injection  will  be  about  the 
size  of  a  2$-cent  piece. 

For  allaying  intense  pain  and  physical  suffering  morphine 
should  be  used  by  dissolving  one  tablet  (one-quarter  grain) 
in  about  ten  drops  of  water  and  injecting  it  under  the  skin 
as  near  the  seat  of  the  pain  as  possible.  If  the  pain  is  caused 
by  some  injury,  such  as  a  broken  bone  or  a  severe  burn,  and 
is  likely  to  last,  a  second  tablet  may  be  given  in  fifteen 
minutes  and  a  third  one  twenty  minutes  later.  Pain  is  the 
antidote  for  morphine,  and  as  long  as  pain  exists  there  is  no 
danger  from  a  much  larger  dose  than  the  above.  If,  however, 
the  pain  arises  from  some  cause  such  as  cramps,  that  are 
likely  to  end  abruptly,  the  above  dose  is  enough. 

For  exhaustion,  shock,  great  fatigue,  hunger,  heart  failure, 
strychnia  should  be  used  as  follows:  Dissolve  the  tablet  in 
ten  drops  of  water  and  inject  into  the  outside  of  the  arm, 
midway  between  the  elbow  and  shoulder.  The  condition  of 
exhaustion,  whether  from  great  exertion,  loss  of  blood,  or 
hunger,  has  caused  a  marked  depression  of  the  heart's  action 
and  the  nervous  system  is  noticeably  affected.  The  patient 
is  pale,  a  cold  perspiration  covers  the  face,  the  breathing 
is  shallow  and  quick,  and  the  pulse  is  faint  and  very  rapid. 


422  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

One  injection  will  show  a  decided  effect,  but  if  a  second  is 
necessary  fifteen  minutes  afterward  do  not  hesitate  to  give  it. 

Drowning.  The  instructions  of  the  U.  S.  Volunteer 
Life-Saving  Corps  are  as  follows: 

RULES  FOR  RESCUE  AND  RESUSCITATION 

DO  NOT  GIVE  UP PERSONS  HAVE  BEEN  RESCUED  AFTER 

HOURS  OF  STEADY  WORK 

Rescuing 

Approach  the  drowning  from  the  rear,  seizing  them  by 
the  collar — if  a  woman,  by  the  back  hair — and  tow  them  at 
arm's  length  to  safety.  Do  not  let  them  cling  around  your 
neck  or  arms  to  endanger  you;  duck  them  under  until  uncon- 
scious, if  necessary  to  break  a  dangerous  hold  upon  you,  but 
do  riot  strike  to  stun  them. 

(i)  Drawing  Tongue  Forward 

First.  Do  not  delay  an  instant,  and  do  not  carry  the 
patient  face  downward,  or  with  feet  higher  than  head.  Imme- 
diately loosen  the  clothing  about  the  neck  and  chest,  exposing 
them  to  the  wind,  except  in  very  severe  weather.  Try  tick- 
ling in  the  throat  with  a  straw  or  feather,  or  hold  ammonia  to 
the  nose;  give  a  severe  slap  with  open  hand  upon  the  chest 
and  soles  of  the  feet.  If  no  immediate  result,  after  drawing 
the  tongue  forward  in  the  mouth  with  handkerchief,  cloth, 
string,  or  pinchers,  proceed  to  get  the  water  out  of  the  body 
as  below. 

(2)  Forcing  the  Water  Out 

Second.  Lay  the  body,  with  its  weight  on  the  stomach, 
across  any  convenient  object,  a  buoy,  keg,  box,  boat,  timber 
or  your  knee,  in  the  open  air,  with  the  head  hanging  down. 
Press  firmly  on  the  back,  between  the  shoulder  blades ;  hold 
the  tongue  forward  in  the  mouth  and  keep  it  in  this  position 
so  as  to  let  the  water  escape  and  help  breathing.  Keep  the 
mouth  clear  of  liquid.  Roll  the  body  gently  from  side  to  side 


Hygiene,  Medicine,  and  Surgery     423 

so  as  to  relieve  the  pressure  on  the  stomach,  then  back  to  the 
stomach.  Do  this  several  times  to  force  the  water  from  the 
stomach  and  throat. 

(3)  Restoring  Breath,  First  Movement 

Third.  Laying  the  body  on  back,  make  a  roll  of  a  coat 
or  any  garment,  place  it  under  shoulders  of  patient,  allowing 
the  head  to  fall  back;  then,  kneeling  at  the  head,  grasp  the 
arms  at  the  middle  of  the  forearms,  folded  across  the  stomach ; 
raise  the  arms  over  the  head  to  a  perpendicular  position, 
drawing  them  backwards  straight,  then  forward  over  head, 
to  the  sides  again,  pressing  the  arms  on  the  lower  part  of  the 
ribs  and  sides,  so  as  to  produce  a  bellows  movement  upon 
the  lungs.  Do  this  sixteen  times  a  minute.  Smelling  salts, 
camphor  or  ammonia  may  be  applied  to  the  nostrils  to  excite 
breathing. 

(4)  Restoring  Breath,  Second  Movement 

Fourth.  On  signs  of  life,  or  when  breathing  is  restored,  the 
clothing  should  be  removed,  the  body  dried,  and  the  limbs, 
arms,  and  body  rubbed  briskly  towards  the  heart  to  restore 
circulation,  then  wrap  in  warm  blankets  or  hot  cloths.  To 
encourage  circulation,  brandy  or  any  spirits  may  be  given, 
in  small  doses,  with  care  to  avoid  strangulation,  and  brisk 
rubbing  and  warmth  applied  to  the  entire  body. 

Keep  at  work  for  hours  until  recovery,  or  until  death  is 
pronounced  by  a  physician. 

Stimulants  should  be  given  with  great  caution. 
Warm  fluid  nourishment  (bouillon,  etc.)  is  much 
better  at  first. 

Over-exertion.  If  you  arrive  in  camp  quite  "all 
in,"  take  a  hot  drink  of  bouillon,  coffee,  Jamaica 
ginger,  or  whiskey,  and  eat  a  bite  of  something  at 
the  same  time.  Lie  down  for  a  bit  with  a  blanket 
round  you  and  ruminate  on  the  joy  of  getting  back 
to  camp . 


424  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Starving  persons.  Give  a  starving  person  little  at 
a  time,  and  let  that  be  well-cooked  and  digestible, 
like  gruel  or  broth.  Do  not  let  him  eat  his  full  for 
a  day  at  least. 

Thirst.  Nor  should  those  on  the  verge  of  death 
by  thirst  be  allowed  to  drink  more  than  a  few 
spoonfuls  at  a  time,  though  that  much  may  be 
given  often. 

On  the  march  if  no  water  is  to  be  had  relief  can 
be  secured  by  holding  a  pebble  in  the  mouth  or  by 
chewing  some  kind  of  innoxious  leaf  or  gum. 


CHAPTER  XXII 

ON    NATURE-BOOKS 

IT  has  seemed  best  to  mention  at  the  end  of  each 
chapter  or  paragraph  dealing  with  a  specific  subject 
a  few  of  the  best  books  directly  connected  with  that 
subject,  so  that  the  works  already  enumerated  must 
form  by  far  the  larger  part  of  the  bibliography  which 
I  have  tried  to  make  an  unique  feature  of  this  manual. 

It  only  remains,  therefore,  to  make  mention  of  a 
few  volumes  in  the  various  divisions  of  American 
woods-literature  that  may  be  heartily  recommended 
to  my  readers. 

The  compilation  of  a  really  complete  and  authorita- 
tive list  of  nature-books  would  be  a  long  and  difficult 
task,  though  the  object  would  be  a  worthy  one;  but 
it  is  hoped  that  the  list  of  books  enumerated  below, 
though  by  no  means  including  all  the  good  ones  on 
subjects  connected  with  forest  life,  will  be  a  source 
of  stimulation  and  suggestion. 

I  am  indebted  to  several  of  the  best  sporting 
authorities  in  the  country  for  assistance  in  its  compil- 
ation. 

Thoreau's  works  should  be  in  every  nature-lover's 
library,  as  well  as  all  those  of  John  Burroughs;  these 
are  already  classics.  Of  the  younger  General  Na- 
school  it  is  difficult  to  make  a  selection,  so  ture -Books 
numerous  are  the  really  excellent  books.  Among 

425 


426  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

them  are  the  works  of  Bradford  Torrey  and  John  Muir ; 
Dr.  H.  van  Dyke's  Fisherman's  Luck,  Little  Rivers, 
and  other  works;  W.  H.  Boardman's  In  ike  Woods; 
John  C.  Van  Dyke's  Nature  for  its  Own  Sake;  Er- 
nest McGaffey's  Outdoors;  R.  E.  Robinson's  Hunting 
without  a  Gun;  Stewart  E.  White's  In  the  Silent  Places 
and  The  Forest;  Hamlin  Garland's  The  Trail  of  the 
Gold  Seekers.  Here  too  we  may  mention  the  new 
school  of  popular  nature-writers  represented  by  C. 
G.  D.  Roberts  and  E.  T.  Seton,  about  whose  works 
so  much  discussion  has  taken  place.  Although  it  is 
understood  that  both  these  gentlemen,  who  frankly 
confess  their  stories  to  be  only  fiction  although 
founded  on  close  observation  of  nature,  have  here 
and  there  slightly  overstepped  the  bounds  of  the 
probable  if  not  of  the  possible,  we  must  not  forget 
that  they  have  done  much  to  arouse  a  wide-spread 
interest  in  the  things  of  nature.  Furthermore,  many 
of  their  writings,  such  as  Mr.  Roberts 's  Kindred  of  the 
Wild  and  Mr.  Seton's  Trail  of  the  Sandhill  Stag,  are 
as  charming  as  they  are  instructive.  Unfortunately, 
certain  of  the  imitators  of  these  popular  writers  are 
careless  observers  of  nature  and  must  also  be  the 
possessors  of  elastic  consciences;  for  their  writings 
teem  with  inaccuracies  and  contain  serious  per- 
versions of  the  truth,  as  well  as  a  mawkish, 
unwholesome  sentimentality.  It  may  be  that 
Mr.  Burroughs  has  been  unnecessarily  severe  with 
some  of  these  gentlemen,  but  one  cannot  escape 
the  conviction  that  his  indignation  is  justified. 
As  will  be  seen  by  a  perusal  of  this  chapter, 
there  is  a  wide  choice  of  good  books  without  de- 
scending to  the  level  of  the  productions  of  the 
"nature-fakers." 


On  Nature- Books  427 

The  writers  of  "strenuous  fiction"  constitute  another 
class  of  outdoor  prophets.  While  it  is  generally 
admired,  I  must  confess  to  a  personal  dislike  of  the 
sensational  in  any  art.  What  a  delight  to  turn  from 
one  of  these  feverish  compositions  to  the  genial  charm 
of  a  story  like  Albert  Bigelow  Paine 's  Tent  Dwellers, 
or  Prime's  I  Go  a-Fishing.  There  is,  too,  the  verse  of 
Nessmuk,  Dr.  W.  H.  Drummond,  C.  G.  D.  Roberts,  and 
Bliss  Carman.  And  if  we  care  to  read  of  adventure 
there  are  Caspar  Whitney's  On  Snow-  .^ 
shoes  to  the  Barren  Grounds  and  President 
Roosevelt's  Wilderness  Hunter,  and  other  similar 
books,  without  going  outside  American  subjects. 
Dillon  Wallace's  Lure  of  the  Labrador  Wild,  Shultz's 
fascinating  My  Life  as  an  Indian,  and  Grinnell's 
Blackfoot  Lodge-Tales  and  Pawnee  Hero  Stories  and 
Folk-Tales  may  also  be  mentioned  here.  Wild 
stories  of  battle  and  bloodshed  may  be  had  in  the 
elder  volumes  dealing  with  the  careers  of  real  fighters 
like  Custer,  Miles,  and  others. 

A  number  of  volumes  dealing  almost  exclusively 
with  camping-out  have  recently  appeared,  the  best 
being  H.  Kephart's  Camping  and  Wood-  ~ 
craft  which,  however,  deals  mostly  with 
regions  to  the  west  of  us,  and  does  not  treat  of  such 
subjects  as  hunting,  fishing,  canoeing,  trapping,  or 
photography.  S.  E.  White's  Camp  and  Trail  is  also 
more  valuable  to  the  Westerner;  it  is  strong  on  the 
subject  of  pack-train  tours,  but  does  not  deal  with 
hunting,  fishing,  or  photography.  Good  old  Ness- 
muk's  Woodcraft  did  much  good  in  its  day,  but  (I 
almost  hesitate  to  breathe  such  heresy!)  is  now 
in  some  ways  rather  out  of  date. 


428  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

Some  good  popular  volume  on  natural  history 
should  be  in  every  home,  whether  that  of  a  sportsman 
Natural  or  not.  The  best  I  am  acquainted  with 
History  is  Hornaday's  American  Natural  History, 
written  for  the  unscientific,  but  full  of  information 
imparted  in  a  very  pleasing  manner,  and  extremely 
well  illustrated.  Of  late  there  have  appeared  many 
excellent  volumes  dealing  with  the  intimate  life  of 
wild  creatures,  some  of  which  have  already  been 
named.  Among  others  are  Ernest  Ingersoll's  Wild 
Neighbors,  The  Wit  of  the  Wild,  and  Wild  Life  of 
Orchard  and  Field',  this  field  is  very  large. 

Of  out-and-out  hunting  books  there  is  no  end. 
Many  have  already  been  mentioned.  We  may 
H  in  add  President  Roosevelt's  American  Big 
Game  in  its  Haunts  (with  G.  B.  Grinnell), 
Outdoor  Pastimes  of  an  American  Hunter;  Grinnell' s 
Trail  and  Camp-fire;  W.  B.  Leffingwell's  Wild-Fowl 
Shooting;  and  the  best  book  on  taxidermy,  Mr. 
Hornaday's  Taxidermy  and  Zoological  Collecting. 

The  standard  bird-book  for  our  section  of  the 
country  is  Frank  M.  Chapman's  Birds  of  Eastern 
B.  -  North  America,  with  which  may  be  men- 

tioned the  same  author's  Color  Key  to  North 
American  Birds,  and  Bird  Studies  with  a  Camera; 
also  Mabel  O.  Wrights  Birdcraft,  A.  K.  Fisher's 
Hawks  and  Owls,  A.  R.  Dugmore's  Bird  Homes, 
H.  E.  Parkhurst's  How  to  Name  the  Birds,  F.  H. 
Herrick's  Home  Life  of  Wild  Birds,  F.  S.  Mathews's 
Field  Book  of  Wild  Birds  and  their  Music,  and  C.  A. 
Reed's  North  American  Birds'  Eggs.  The  older 
works  of  Bradford  Torrey  and  Olive  Thome  Miller 


On  Nature-Books  429 

are  also  delightful.  Bird  Lore  and  The  Auk  are  the 
best  magazines  dealing  with  ornithology. 

The  standard  work  on  fish  is  American  Food  and 
Game  Fishes,  by  Jordan  and  Evermann.  Other  books 
dealing  with  game  fish  and  angling  have 
been  mentioned  in  our  chapter  on  Fishing. 
Among  interesting  and  instructive  books  of  less 
technical  angling  interest  may  be  named  E.  A. 
Samuels's  With  Fly-Rod  and  Camera,  and  Charles 
Bradford's  The  Brook  Trout  and  the  Determined 
Angler. 

In  the  Insect  world  may  be  recommended  C.  M. 
Weed's  Nature  Biographies. 

Coming  to  plants  and  trees  the  following  may  be 
considered  representative  authorities:  F.  D.  Mathews's 
Field  Book  of  American  Wild  Flowers,  Plants  and 
and  Familiar  Trees  and  their  Leaves;  Trees 

F.  T.  Parsons's  How  to  Know  the  Wild  Flowers,  and 
How  to  Know  the  Ferns;  H.  L.  Keeler's  Our  Native 
Trees  and  How  to  Identify  them,  and  Our  Northern 
Shrubs;  M.  G.  Peterson's  How  to  Know  Wild  Fruits; 
H.  E.  Parkhurst's  Trees,  Shrubs,  and  Vines;  .  N.  L. 
Marshall's  Mosses  and  Lichens,  and  Mushroom  Book. 
Of  juvenile  nature-literature  there  is  a  vast  quantity, 
mostly  fiction.  An  excellent  book  to  put  into  a  boy's 
hands  is  Dan  Beard's  Field  and  Forest  Handy  Book. 
Another  is  Mabel  O.  Wright's  Four-Footed  Americans 
and  their  Kin. 

Outing  is  the  leading  sporting  monthly  of  America, 
the  editor  being  Mr.  Caspar  Whitney,  the  chief  guardian 


430  The  Way  of  the  Woods 

of  our  national  amateur  sporting  reputation.  Coun- 
try Life  in  America  is  an  interesting  and  artistic 
p  •  <*•  1  publication,  while  of  the  other  monthlies 
may  be  named  Recreation  and  Field  and 
Stream,  both  excellent  magazines,  that  deal  almost 
exclusively  with  wilderness  sports.  Rod  and  Gun 
and  Motor  Sports  in  Canada  and  The  National 
Sportsman  complete  the  list  of  Eastern  outing 
monthlies. 

Of  weeklies  by  far  the  most  important,  both  in 
influence  and  intrinsic  value,  is  Forest  and  Stream, 
which  I  would  not  willingly  be  without.  Arms  and 
the  Man  is  avowedly  devoted  to  the  interests  of  the 
National  Guard,  but  also  gives  considerable  atten- 
tion to  field  sports.  There  are  a  number  of  minor 
sporting  periodicals,  such  as  Carleton's  State  of  Maine 
Sportsman's  Journal  (Augusta,  Me.),  a  local  monthly 
of  interest. 

The  Catalogues  of  the  most  prominent  sporting- 
goods  makers  and  dealers  may  be  properly  included 
in  our  bibliography.  The  addresses  of  these  firms 
may  be  got  from  their  advertisements  in  the  pages  of 
the  sporting  periodicals. 


INDEX 


Adirondacks,  367 
Air-beds,  52 
Alaska,  321,  360,  366 
Aluminum  kits,  120 
American   Forestry   Associa- 
tion, 183 
Ammonia,  39 
Antelope,  365 
Audubon  Society,  183 
Automatic  Firearms,  320 
Axemanship,  76 
Axes,  75,  78 

B 

Bags,  48,  57,  58,  84,  248 
Bait-fishing,  265 
Baker,  folding,  123,  137 
Bandages   for   wounds,    414, 

418 
Bark,  birch,  canoes,  87,  94;, 

drinking-cup,  82 
Barren-Grounds,  360 
Baskets,  83;  fish-,  231 
Bass,  Black,  291 
Bay  Chaleur,  269 
Bear,    Black,    394;    Grizzly, 

366,  394 
Beard,  Dan,  429 
Beds,  49,  155 
Belts,  19,  329 
Bighorn  Sheep,  365 
Birds,     game,     140;      books 

about,  428;  protection  of, 

182 

Bivouacs,  51,  173 
Black  Bass,  291 
Black  flies,  4,  33 


Blankets,  49 
Blazing  trails,  166 
Boots,  23 ;  wading-,  140 
Bradford,  Charles,  262,  429 
Brown  Trout,  271 
Brownell,  L.  W.,  406 
Brush  camps,  73 
Burroughs,  John,  xv,  425 
Butchering   big    game,    342, 

355.  358 
Buxton,  S.,  264 


Cameras,  photographic,  398 

Camp,  cookery,  119;  grounds, 
1 50 ;  kits,  119;  making,  1 50 ; 
slippers,  25 

Camps,  72,  151,  173 

Canada.  See  separate  provin- 
ces-. 

Canadian  pack,  85 

Candles,  no 

Canoes,  87 

Canoe-carriers,  92;  handling, 
97;  repairing,  94;  tents, 

67.  74 
Canteen,  80 
Cape  Breton,  273 
Carbines,  311 
Cards,  playing,  46 
Caribou,  360;  shanks,  23 
Cartridges,  307,  327 
Cartridge-belt,  329 
Casting,  fly-,  238,    251,    261, 

282 ;  bait-,  296 
Casts,  for  trout,  229 
Chambers,  E.  T.  D.,  291 
Chapman,  F.  M.,     184,    406, 

428 


432 


Index 


Chautauqua  Lake,  299 
Chocolate,  32,  112 
Cleveland,  Grover,  186,  254, 

267,  298 
Clothing,  15  et  seq.,  246,  338, 

346 

Colds,  410 
Compass,  29,  169 
Conneaut  Lake,  299 
Contusions,  413 
Cookery,  119 
Cooking-kits,     119;     recipes, 

130 

"Coquma,     10 
Cost  of  trips,  12 
Cougar,  367 
Creels,  231,  259 
Cushions,  97 
Cuts,  413 

D 

Darling,  Lou  S.,  238,  243,  297 

Deadfall  traps,  379 

Deer,  344 ;  measurements, 
359;  hunting,  350;  pre- 
serving meat,  355;  skin- 
ning, etc.,  355;  to  esti- 
mate weight,  364 

Dewar,  G.,  264 

Dislocations,  417 

Dogs,  369 

Dog-bites,  417 

Dress.     See  Clothing. 

Drowning  persons,  resusci- 
tation of,  422 

Drummond,  W.  H.,  46,  427 

Dry-flyfishing,  220,  221,  262 

Ducks,  374 

Duffle-bags,  48 

Dugmore,  A.  R.,  401,  406, 
428 

Dutcher,  William,  183 

Duxbak  clothing  17,  1 8 

Dyeing  fabrics,  70;  gut,  217 

E 

Elk,  363 

Elliot,  D.  G.,  361 

Emergency  lunch,  32,  112 


Emery-cloth,  47 
Enright,  277 
Ermine,  393 


Feet,  care  of,  165 

Firearms,  40,  303 

Fires,  camp,  160,  173;  cook- 
ing, 125, 159 

Firewood,  158 

Fish,  189;  to  cook,  143;  to 
cure,  260;  to  keep  fresh, 

.259 
Fish-basket,  231,  259;  hooks, 

to  remove  from  flesh,  416 
Fisher  (fur-bearer),  387 
Fishing,  189,  243,  264 
Fishing-shirt,  21;  tackle,  190, 

248,    264,    276,    290,    293; 

repairing  tackle,  233 
Flies,  black,  4,  33 
Flies,  trout-,  218  et  seq.,  253; 

lists  of,  226;  grayling-,  272 
Fly,  for  tent,  63,  71 
Fly-blows,  355 
Fly-dopes,    35;    books    and 

boxes,    227;   casting,    238, 

251,  261,  282 
Folding  baker,  123;  lantern, 

81 

Food,  105,  130,  175 
Food-bags,  84 
Footwear,  21,  246;  oil  for,  22, 

25 

Fox,  390 

Fractures,  418 

Frazer, Perry  D.,  xvii,67,  233 

Frostbite,  412 

Fur,  value  of,  377 

Fur-bearing  animals,  376 

Furniture,  80,  157,  162;  rus- 
tic, 82,  124 

Fuzees,  46,  116 


Gaffs,  281,  288 

Game  birds,    369;    laws,    14, 

179,  184 
Garland,  Hamlin,  426 


Index 


433 


Gibson,  W.  H.,  396 

Gloves,  39,  247 

Glutton,  388 

Goat,  Rocky  Mountain,  366 

Goose,  Canada,  375 

Graflex  camera,  401 

Grande  Decharge,  290 

Grayling,  271 

Grease,  boot,  22;  for  fire- 
arms, 316 

Grey,  Sir  E.,  264 

Grilse,  274 

Grinnell,  G.  B.,  368,  427, 
428 

Grizzly  Bear,  366 

Ground-cloth,  72 

Grouse  (partridge),  370;  to 
cook,  140;  Canada,  372; 
Willow,  373 

Guides,  13,  46,  127,  128 

Guns,  316 

Gun-sling,  314 

Gut,  209;  to  stain,  212 

H 

Halford,  F.,  264 

Hallock,  Charles,  186,  288 

Hammond,  S.  T.,  370 

Harding,  A.  R.,  396 

Hares  (rabbits),  139 

Harris,  W.  C.,  244 

Hatchets,  78,  160 

Hats,  20 

Head-nets,  37 

Head-wear,  20 

Health,  407 

Henshall,  J.  A.,  272,  292, 
298,  300 

Hobnails,  23 

Hooks,  fish,  223,  265 

Hornaday,  W.  T.,  184,  186, 
289,  344,  357,  359,  360, 
365,  366,  385,  388,  428 

Hudson,  W.  G.,  316 

Hunter,  Martin,  396 

Hunting.  See  separate  ani- 
mals and  birds. 

Huntington,  D.  W.,  374,  375 

Hygiene,  407 

Hypodermic  syringe,  419 

28 


Idaho,  364,  366 
Indian,  21 ;  fire,  161 
Ingersoll,  Ernest,  428 
Insect-bites,  417 
Insect-dopes,  35 
Insects,  4,  33,  65 
Insoles,  23 


Job,  Herbert  K.,  406 
Jordan  River,  N.  S.,  269 

K 

Keene,  J.  H.,  221,  260,  262 
Kentucky  reels,  295 
Kephart,  H.,  315,  342,  427 
Knapsacks,  42 
Knives,  30 

Knots,  fisherman's,  213;  for 
hooks,    223;    leader-,   213, 

215 
Kodak  cameras,  398 


Labrador,  274 

Ladies'  outfits,  61 

Lahave  River,  N.  S.,  273 

Lake  Champlain,  301 

Lake  St.  John,  289 

Lake-trout,  268 

Landing-nets,  229 

Landlocked  Salmon,  288,  291 

Lanterns,  81 

Larrigans,  22 

Leaders,  209;  boxes  for,  213; 

how  to  make,  214;  knots 

for,  213,  215 
Leffingwell,  W.  B.,  428 
Leggings,  25 
Leonard,  R.,  238 
Licenses,  14,  273 
Line-driers,  208 
Lines,  fishing,  207 
Liquors,  116 


434 


Index 


Literature,  sporting  and  na- 
ture, 425,  and  at  end  of 
each  chapter 

Lost,  getting,  171 

Lubricants,  202,  208 

Lynx,  Canada,  388;  Bay,  389 

M 

Mackinaw  blankets,  49;  gar- 
ments, 20 

Magdalen  Islands,  6 
Maine,  6,  245,  288,  325,  367, 

43° 

Maps,  44 

Marbury,  Mary  Orvis,  262 

Marten,  387 

Mascalonge,  299 

Match-boxes,  31,  161,  167 

Matches  and  fuzees,  46,  no, 
116 

Matthews,  F.  D.,  429 

Mattresses,  58 

Maxwell,  Sir  H.,  220 

McCarthy,  E.,  289,  291. 

Measuring  big  game,  359 

Meats,  136 

Medicines,  44,  409 

Michigan,  271 

Midges,  33 

Milk,  109 

Mink,  385 

Minnesota,  364 

Minnow-traps,  266 

Missouri  River,  272 

Moccasins,  21,  165;  home- 
made, 26 

Money,  to  carry,  40 

Montana,  272,  365,  367,  394 

Moose,  321 

Moose  hunting,  330;  meas- 
urements, 359;  muffle,  139; 
shanks,  23;  to  estimate 
weight,  364 

Mosquitoes,  4,  34 

Mosquito-bars,  71 

Muskrats,  391;  to  cook,  140 

N 

Nails  (in  shoes),  23,  246; 
wounds  from,  416 


Nature-books,  425 
Nature,  protection  of,  177 
Nepigon  River,  6 
"Nessmuk,"   n,  35,  37,   83, 

109,  125,  427 
Nets,  head,  37;  landing,  229, 

2 58;  mosquito,  71 
New  Brunswick,  6,  269,  273, 

321 
Newfoundland,   6,   269,   272, 

274,  360, 361 
Norris,  T.,  272 
"No-see-ums,"  4,  33 
Note-books,  45 
Nova  Scotia,  6,  250,  269,  274, 

323»  389 

O 

Oil,     lubricating,     202,     208, 

316; for  shoes,  22,  25 
Oilskins,  19,  276 
Open  seasons,  350 
Orvis  (and  Cheney)    262 
Otter,  383 
Ouananiche,  288 
Outfit,  selection  of,  n 
Oxidising,  237 


Pack,  85 

Pack-baskets,  83;  harness, 
84 

Paine,  Albert  Bigelow,  xvii, 
427 

Panther,  367 

Partridge.     See  Grouse. 

Pemmican,  113 

Pennell,  C.,  275 

Phillipps-Wolley,  C.,  367 

Photography,  397 

Pickerel,  301 

Pike,  300 

Pillows,  57 

Pistols,  41,  319 

Plaster,  surgeon's,  33 

Playing  a  trout,  256;  a  sal- 
mon, 287 

Poison-ivy,  411 

Ponchos,  20,  73 

Porcupines,  185;  to  cook,  140 


Index 


435 


Pork,  1 08 

Port  Medway  River,  N.  S., 

273 

Powder,  smokeless,  307 
Preston  kit,  120 
Prong-horn  Antelope,  365 
Protection  of  nature,  177 
Provision-bags,  84 
Provisions,  105 
Ptarmigan,  373 
Puma,  367 

Q 

Quail,  373 
Quebec,  Province  of,  6,  269, 


272,  289 


R 


Raccoon,  393 

Rainbow  Trout,  271 

Rain-hoods,  21 

Rangeley    Lakes,      6,     245, 

253 

Rapids,  running,  100,  103 
Reading  matter,  45 
Reels,  203,  278,  295 
Reloading  cartridges,  307 
Repairing  clothing,  26;  fish- 
ing tackle,  233 
Repair-kits,  46,  247 
Restigouche  River,  273 
Revolvers,  319 
Rhead,  L.,  262,  291 
Rifles,  40,  303,  306,  326,  347; 

care  of,  315 
Roberts,  C.  G.  D.,  426 
Rocky  Mountain  Goat,  366 
Rods,  fishing,  191,  264,  276; 
to   carry,  261;    to    repair, 

234 
Roosevelt,  T.,  183,  186,  324, 

338»    343,    359,    363,    3^4, 

365,  367,  428 
Ruffed  Grouse,  370 
Rust-preventive,  315 


Saguenay  River,  289 
Sailing  in  canoes,  103 


Salmon,  6,  272;  fishing,  284; 

tackle,  276 
Salt,  no 
Salt-box,  31;  lick, 
Samuels,  E.  A.,  186,  262,  429 
Sandpaper,  47 
Sausage,  32 

Scents  for  trapping,  381 
Schilling,  Mr.,  406 
Sea- trout,  269 
Sebago  Lake,  291 
Selous,  F.  C.,  343,  361 
"Seneca,"  147 
Senior,  W.,  302 
Seton,  E.  T.,  359,  362,  365, 

368,  426 

Setting-pole,  102 
Sheep,  Mountain,  365 
Shields,  G.  O.,  364,  366 
Shiras,  G.  W.,  406 
Shirts,  17 
Shoepacks,  23 
Shoes,  21,  276 
Shooting,  theory  of ,  303 ,  3 1 5 ; 

with    shotgun,    318;    with 

rifle,  348 
Shotguns,  316 
Sickness,  410 
Sights,  rifle,  309  313,  329 
Signals,  forest,  167,  172 
Signs    of    direction,    170;    of 

weather,  176 
Silver,  A.  P.,  270 
Skinning  game,  342,  355 
Skittering,  300,  302 
Skull-cap,  21 
Skunk, 395 

Sleep,  importance  of,  10,  54 
Sleeping-bags,  49 
Smithsonian  Institution,  178 
Soap  boxes,  43 
Sore  feet,  410 
Splints,  418 

Sporting  periodicals,  7,  26 
Sprains,  417 

"Spruce-partridges,"  372 
Starving  persons,  424 
Stationery,  45 
Steel  traps,  380 
Stone,  A.  J.,  333 
Stoves,  69;  hot  stones,  174 


436 


Index 


Sunstroke,  411 
Surgery,  412 


Tackle,  fishing,  190,  264;  re- 
pairing, 233 

Tents,  63;  home-made,  74; 
how  to  pitch,  152;  insect- 
proof,  65 ;  stoves,  69 

Thirst,  suffering  by,  424 

Thoreau,  xv,  425 

Tobacco,  115 

Togue,  268 

Toilette  articles,  43,  57 

Tools,  79 

Torrey,  Bradford,  426 

Trailing,  165 

Trapping,  376 

Traps,  animal,  378;  minnow, 
266 

Trees,  158,  168,  171,  184 

Trolling,  266,  268,  298,  300 

Trousers,  18 

Trout,  189,  243,  268,  269, 
271;  fishing,  243;  tackle, 
191 

Tump-line,  85 

Turtles,  140 

U 

Underclothing,  15 
V 

Van  Dyke,  H.,  xv,  426 
Van  Dyke,  John  C.,  426 


Van  Dyke,  T.  S.,  332,  352, 

358 

Vegetables,  in,  133,  142 
Venison,  136 

W 

Wading-boots,  24,  246,  276 

Wallace,  Dillon,  104 

Wapiti,  363 

War-bag,  48 

Watch,  28,  161;  as  compass, 

29 

Waterproofing  clothing,  lea- 
ther, etc.,  25;  tents,  70 
Weasel,  393 
Weather  signs,  176 
Wells,  H.  P.,  34,  97,  199,  210, 

233,  277 
Where  to  go,  5 
Whetstones,  43 
White,   S.   E.,  90,   162,  364, 

426 
Whitney,   Caspar,    xvii,  186, 

427,  429 
Wildcat,  389 
Winans,  W.,  316,  320 
Wisconsin,  299 
Wolverine,  388 
Wood,  158,  168 
Woodcock,  373;  to  cook,  14, 

141 

Woodcraft,  163 
Wounded,  transportation  of, 

419 

Wounds,  413 
Wright,  Mabel  O.,  429 
Wyoming,  364,  365,  367 


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